/ A quick question re Dent de Geant

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robthered - on 07 May 2013
Planning on doing the Rochefort Ridge and the Dent at the end of the month.

Is there much point in taking stickies to climb the Dent itself? We weren't planning on any other rock climbs so would be purely for this.

I know there are fixed ropes and the climbing's not too difficult anyway so was thinking big boots would be fine.

Cheers

Rob
jshields - on 07 May 2013
In reply to robthered: Big boots ill be okay, enjoy.
Jon
jshields - on 07 May 2013
In reply to jshields: sorry - will, didn't hit the w hard enough!!
MG - on 07 May 2013
In reply to robthered: IN typical UKC fashion, I will now recommend taking them! There are a couple of moves at about UK 4b/4c that you can haul over with the fixed ropes but will be more enjoyable if you climb them in rock shoes.
robthered - on 07 May 2013
In reply to robthered:

Well - in true UKC stylee, thanks for summing up the decision I'm trying to make, without helping me make it!

Avoiding the fixed-ropes would be preferable. I guess it now comes down to whether we think we can make the moves in boots?

Also - with avoiding using the ropes in mind, are there any specific rack recommendations? I'm assuming it's bolted?
(I know all this would be in a guide book, but I'm working out of the MB 'Classic Snow, Ice and Mixed' guide which only gets you to the bottom of the Dent).

Cheers
GridNorth - on 07 May 2013
In reply to robthered: Persoanally I wouldn't carry the additional weight and bulk with the inevitable slowing down while you change footwear for the sake of a couple of moves on an alpine climb.
robthered - on 07 May 2013
Yeah - just chatted to my partner and we decided the same.

Thanks for the responses. I'm going to treat that as another couple of 100g saved!

goatee - on 07 May 2013
In reply to robthered: If you stick alongside the ropes then yeah its protected but there is a line to the right that I don't think is bolted and you would need gear for. That is the normal route if you are gong to avoid the ropes.
shaun walby - on 07 May 2013
In reply to robthered:
I did it in rock boots,its bolted but the rope is fixed by metal stacks whch make good additional anchores, top 4c moves take small wires.

rocks boots... fast pleasurable climbing but cold, did help me not to be overtaken by guide+clients hence abb off quick/safe.
caradoc - on 07 May 2013
The route to the right of ropes is trad and you will be doing well to climb it in mountain boots, it's thin and slabby. You rejoin the fixed ropes at the top of the slab. We found it a lot easier in rock boots but each to his or her own.
Tim Chappell - on 07 May 2013
In reply to robthered:

Stickies is cheating. Use your boots. And keep your crampons on ;-)
shaun walby - on 07 May 2013
In reply to robthered:
aplologies...that should read its not bolted

shaun
robthered - on 07 May 2013
In reply to shaun walby:

Thanks for the important clarification Shaun!

As some have said above - it was the idea of the relative 'freedom' of switching to stickies for the climb that I was particularly taken with when first thinking about doing the route.

As also noted above though, I'm not sure that sufficiently justifies the additional weight/bulk/faff.
GridNorth - on 07 May 2013
In reply to robthered: It's all part of the moving fast and light philosophy. Only carry/put on rock boots when there are several pitches of technical climbing and when wearing them would speed things up. The same applies to crampons, either aim to keep them on or aim to keep them off, don't keep stopping to change. Technical/difficult climbing is of course in the eye of the beholder but it's surprising what standards can be achieved in big boots. I did the Walker Spur in big boots but would have to admit that in retrospect and with the drier conditions that seem to be the norm these days rock boots would be worth carrying. Big boots can be a disadvantage on slabby granite but in many cases can offer a huge advantage on gnarly cracks.
shaun walby - on 07 May 2013
In reply to robthered:
There is nothing on this VS4c slab at 4000m of
a technical nature that make mountain boots more appropriate than rock boots other than temparature...in the interest of fast n light rock boots are IMO worth taking up...i didnt get passed by guides n clients and didnt have to wait to abb off as i was first on the summit.

id leave boots crampons at bottom climb fast easy on this suprisingly smooth slab and also do it later in the day if i did it again....which i might in 6 wks time as part of arete this time.
cariva - on 07 May 2013
In reply to robthered:
Another vote for taking the rockshoes (at least for the leading climber.
I did it in big boots but I was the second and my partner was in his rockshoes and led the whole thing. The step in big boots went just fine, but it would be a different ball game if I were leading I guess. There was nothing to step on to really, and it was just the freaking friction.
I also thought of the very first move onto the rock to be kinda tricky.

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