/ A quick question re Dent de Geant
Is there much point in taking stickies to climb the Dent itself? We weren't planning on any other rock climbs so would be purely for this.
I know there are fixed ropes and the climbing's not too difficult anyway so was thinking big boots would be fine.
Well - in true UKC stylee, thanks for summing up the decision I'm trying to make, without helping me make it!
Avoiding the fixed-ropes would be preferable. I guess it now comes down to whether we think we can make the moves in boots?
Also - with avoiding using the ropes in mind, are there any specific rack recommendations? I'm assuming it's bolted?
(I know all this would be in a guide book, but I'm working out of the MB 'Classic Snow, Ice and Mixed' guide which only gets you to the bottom of the Dent).
Thanks for the responses. I'm going to treat that as another couple of 100g saved!
I did it in rock boots,its bolted but the rope is fixed by metal stacks whch make good additional anchores, top 4c moves take small wires.
rocks boots... fast pleasurable climbing but cold, did help me not to be overtaken by guide+clients hence abb off quick/safe.
Stickies is cheating. Use your boots. And keep your crampons on ;-)
aplologies...that should read its not bolted
Thanks for the important clarification Shaun!
As some have said above - it was the idea of the relative 'freedom' of switching to stickies for the climb that I was particularly taken with when first thinking about doing the route.
As also noted above though, I'm not sure that sufficiently justifies the additional weight/bulk/faff.
There is nothing on this VS4c slab at 4000m of
a technical nature that make mountain boots more appropriate than rock boots other than temparature...in the interest of fast n light rock boots are IMO worth taking up...i didnt get passed by guides n clients and didnt have to wait to abb off as i was first on the summit.
id leave boots crampons at bottom climb fast easy on this suprisingly smooth slab and also do it later in the day if i did it again....which i might in 6 wks time as part of arete this time.
Another vote for taking the rockshoes (at least for the leading climber.
I did it in big boots but I was the second and my partner was in his rockshoes and led the whole thing. The step in big boots went just fine, but it would be a different ball game if I were leading I guess. There was nothing to step on to really, and it was just the freaking friction.
I also thought of the very first move onto the rock to be kinda tricky.
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