/ Tournette Spur
My current favourite would be the Tournette Spur on MB some time mid August (after 10 days or so of acclimatizing on easier stuff with the family).
Any advice appreciated (e.g. current recommendations for access to Sella hut, where to cross the Miage glacier, etc...).
Had the same objective last summer when I was based for 3 weeks in Courmayeur. Headed up the Miage Glacier with Alek (crazy Russian) towards the Gonella Hut with the aim to cross over the glacier to the Quinto Sella. Walking up the Miage I saw a HUGE ice avalanche down the Mont Blanc Glacier. Aborted any attempt at getting to the Qunito Sella upon reaching the Gonella as it would take at least another 4 hours to reach it. Opted for the South Face of the Bosses (D) as Alek wanted to do a huge ice face. Crossing the glacier the next morning I was glad we opted against the approach to Quinto Sella as the crevasses was massive. Alek nearly fell into one twice trying to jump across them (that said he is a idiot and can't jump to save his life). Subsequently ended up soloing the South Face of the Bosses as there was not deep enough ice to place screws (that said, the steepest part was 70 degree ice for only 5-10m the rest being consistant 60 degree. Pumpy on the calves).
That side of Mt Blanc is really impressive - so secluded. Feels like you have the mountain to yourself... and then you top out on the Bosses ridge to see all the guided parties heading up the Gouter Route.
Assess when you get to the Gonella whether you will risk going to the Quinto Sella in one day. Maybe look to doing the approach in two days. The route looks brilliant - real good fun.
Make sure you acclimatise well - 10 days seems (IMO) quite short for attempting Mt Blanc. Then again, each to their own...
All the best - hope you get on it.
Thanks for the advice, that is exactly what I am looking for. 10 days should be fine, I cope with hight quite well, and can hopefully sneak in one or two extended weekends beforehand.
I will also have a look at the south face of the bosses, never heard of that route before but sounds interesting.
Hi CB, in snowy conditions, early season conditions the Quintino Sella hut can be accessed directly through the classic route, but the initial glacier slope has become very steep in the last few years. Best thing as usual is to ask in Courmayeur.
You will need a very good phisical form and a good acclimatization to do it properly. It's a very remote place by alpine standards, and while not terribly dangerous, it's still serious
> Opted for the South Face of the Bosses (D)....... Subsequently ended up soloing the South Face of the Bosses as there was not deep enough ice to place screws (that said, the steepest part was 70 degree ice for only 5-10m the rest being consistant 60 degree).
Is that the same as Les Bosses South-west Side (Route 65 in the AC guide)? It may not be (in which case where is it?), but if so it was nowhere near that steep when I did it as a cop out (feeling the altitude) from going on the Miage Face in '92. It was ok, but not nearly in the same class as the Tournette which I had done a couple of years earlier. The Tournette is really good, comparing quite favourably with routes on the Brenva Face. Incidentally, do people go on the Brenva Face much these days (not much chat about it) or is the approach too dangerous or something?
Thanks! I thought going earlier might be better, but school holidays are in August.
Not too sure, could be. We used the Snow, Mixed and Ice guidebook that year. If you are at the Gonella an are looking over to Mt Blanc, its on that face that faces towards the Hut at the far left hand side. Was quite bare with not particularly fantastic snow ice (was quite warm). The slight 70 degree from what I remember was getting over some protrusion ad only for about 5m.
I wouldn't advocate it as a route - to me it was a bit sh*t. Alek loves pure ice/snow ice climbs. I like to break up the monotony with a bit of rock interspersed - hence why I went to do the Tournette.
Not sure about the Brenva. The seracs on that face a huge. The description of some of the routes coming from the Fourche hut over to that part of Mt Blanc talks about running the gauntlet or else starting very early. Perhaps thats the reason.
> Not sure about the Brenva. The seracs on that face a huge. The description of some of the routes coming from the Fourche hut over to that part of Mt Blanc talks about running the gauntlet or else starting very early. Perhaps thats the reason.
The Brenva Routes have obviously always had a serac risk, but I think the initial traverese from Col Moore was badly affected by a rockfall at some point after I last did it in '90 and became a bit of a no go area.
Regarding the Tournette, we approached the bivi hut directly from the valley, not via the Gonella which looks very problematic both because of the ground you have to cross and the difficulty of finding your way on the traverse. Even on the direct route we found ourselves on some steep, loose, intimidating ground, but Luca's friend Matteo seemed to know a much better approach then. Luca, presumably Matteo would be a good person to ask before trying?
Sounds scary..... Route Major, and to a lesser extent The Sentinelle Rouge were fairly standard (albeit serious) and relatively popular objectives in the eighties (The Pear is another matter!). Maybe they are just out of fashion now.
Elsewhere on the site
On Saturday 13th December Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson kicked off their Scottish winter season early by making the... Read more
This years ROCfest will be slightly different. We've decided to run a Climbing Festival, not just a competition! Over... Read more
At a bar in Llanberis an old man chimed in And I thought he was out of his head Being a young man I just laughed it off When... Read more
The Epicentre Mega Winter Sale starts in store 9am Christmas Eve. We have a great selection of in store only deals from... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more