/ All day trad shoe recommendations

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snoop6060 - on 07 May 2013
So its time for a replacement pair of bimblers as I like to call them. I have had a few pairs of the 5.10 moccasyms which are great comfort wise, but become a bit sloppy in the heat.

So anyone got any recommendations? Ideally they would be:

- Super Comfortable, this is the main aim.
- Stiff as possible. Mainly for foot support, but also have a good edge when I get on something harder.
- Be able to cope in the heat when my feet expand. So should be able to breath a bit, and stretch. I suffer really bad with hot feet.
- OK for a resole (The moccasyms are not).
- Ok for walking a short walks in like the descent from Gogarth Main.
- Bonus points if they are good for climbing cracks as i'm off to squamish later in the year.

Current Contenders are:

5.10 Hueco - They seem stiff, and made of leather so should stretch/breath ok.
http://www.cragxclimbing.com/shoesfootwear/rockshoes/510-hueco-2-p-5336.html

la Sportiva Trantula - Come recommended by a mate, not tried them.
http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/climbingapproach/tarantula

La Sportiva Mythos - Like the classic look of these, and they seem stiff enough. Don't really know much else about them. I cannot find a shop near me (Stockport) that sells them either. Anyone know of anywhere?
http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/climbingapproach/mythos

Any comments on the above 3 or any other recommendations?

Cheers,

Si
IPPurewater on 07 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: I like the La Sportiva Mythos for an all day shoe. Red Chili Sausalitos are good too, but much stiffer being board lasted. These are a slightly wider fit than the Mythos.
GridNorth - on 07 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: 5.10 Newtons are comfy and stiff. Slightly thicker soles and good toes for crack climbing as they offer some protection.
Offwidth - on 07 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

Unless things have changed, Mythos wear a bit easily. You need to try the things on, so go to a shop with a good range and buy for fit.
Jon Stewart - on 07 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

Scarpa Force are v comfy for me and still technical enough for 'proper' climbing. Usually loads of pairs knocking around for cheap. Not right stiff though (I normally find stiff an comfy quite incompatible).
crustypunkuk - on 07 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:
I use my 5.10 spires for just about everything and i have yet to have sore feet from them, even after long multi pitch days.
mattking_109 - on 07 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: Second vote for Red Chili Sausalitos (2011 version). Can easily wear them all day and still got a good toe / edge
CurlyStevo - on 07 May 2013
In reply to mattking_109:
another vote for the previous model of Red Chili Sausalitos, the new ones unfortunately are not as stiff, although they are still quite stiff.
snoop6060 - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

Aye, though I cannot find anywhere local that sells them. Not sure I am that interested if they wear too quickly. Thats why I am looking for a replacement for the Moccasyms, they are great, though they get real thin and sloppy pretty soon. And cannot be resoled. Though they are probably considered cheap at 80 these days!
Offwidth - on 07 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

You can buy cheap Scarpas for 40 or less (the Vantage in various sales). They are fine if they fit.
snoop6060 - on 07 May 2013
In reply to All:

Thanks All. Will check out the Red Chillis and the Scarpas suggested by Jon. Thats if I can find em.
johncook - on 07 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: I wear Chili Spirit velcros with heel impact protection. I have worn them all day in the Utah desert, and in the cold and wet peak (the red colour does run into your feet in wet weather) Not sure on your grade but I am happy at HVS (occasional E1) and have seen people climbing much much harder in them.
In general I would suggest that you go to a decent shop and try on as many shoes as possible. Go Outdoors currently seem to have a big range in Sheffield, covering several manufacturers.
Good luck with the quest!
Trina B - on 07 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: I wore my huecos literally all day on sunday, from the car, to the crag, climbed, then back to the car. they're really comfy...
so i'd recommend them. clearly.
snoop6060 - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Trina B:

From the pictures they seem to have a padded heel, is this the case?

I do like the sound of them, they seem to be exactly what i'm looking for.
douwe - on 07 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:
Would recommend Mythos. Super comfortable for all day climbing and great performance. Durability is not a problem in my experience.
Have been told the rubber on Tarantulas is not that great.
Can't comment on the 5.10's.
rgold - on 08 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

You should be looking at Sportiva TC Pros; they meet most of your criteria and were designed for granite face- and crack-climbing on long routes.

Some of the shoes mentioned, like the Mythos, are good but are not at all stiff.
TRip - on 08 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

I think the new Evolv Valour is excellent. Very good value at 70 too.

I got my pair to review and will definitely be buying a new pair when they wear out.

Review here: http://info.rockrun.com/reviews/evolv-valor-review.html

HTH
manumartin - on 08 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: another vote for sportiva t c pro's, comfortable, precise enough, super friction, leather uppers with lots of holes to keep feet a bit cooler,excellent for crack climbing, i use them all the time for long alpine rock routes on both granite and lime.
cheers
GridNorth - on 08 May 2013
In reply to manumartin: I would like to try a pair of TC Pros but I don't think anyone in the UK stocks them.
TRip - on 08 May 2013
In reply to GridNorth: You could try the new Evolv Astroman instead: http://www.rockrun.com/products/Evolv-Astroman.html

GridNorth - on 08 May 2013
In reply to TRip: I'm not a big fan of Evolv shoes. I have had a pair of Bandits and Pontas both of them wore out very quickly and in a far shorter timescale than any other shoe that I have owned.
John W - on 08 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

Another vote for La Sportiva Mythos - I'm just about to invest 35 in having them resoled, but I've had them for well over 10 years.
snoop6060 - on 08 May 2013
In reply to manumartin:
> (In reply to snoop6060) another vote for sportiva t c pro's, comfortable, precise enough, super friction, leather uppers with lots of holes to keep feet a bit cooler,excellent for crack climbing, i use them all the time for long alpine rock routes on both granite and lime.
> cheers

I've not come across these, they do look like what I am after though.

Did you get them from the UK? I cannot track a pair down anywhere. The evolve boots above sound pretty similar, but I've not been impressed with other evolve shoes I've bought.
Mark Kemball - on 08 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: I am now on my second pair of Evolve Bandits http://www.barnclimbinggear.co.uk/climbing-shoes/evolv-bandits which I bought with the same idea as you - comfort when climbing trad. Obviously, a lot depends on your foot shape (mine is small and wide), but I think they're at least worth trying on.
manumartin - on 08 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: i live in haute savoie and bought them here - montaz in chambery, i'm on my second pair, could have had my others resoled but didn't bother. my shoe size is 42 and 41 t c pro's fit perfectly
In reply to snoop6060: These are great for all day comfort with a good padded heel unit for walk ins

www.gooutdoors.co.uk/mad-rock-mens-frenzy-ez-climbing-shoes-p130296

......but only if they fit your feet....like every other UKC outdoor footwear question along the lines of "I'm after XYZ and ABC and DEF and GHI in one piece of footwear"!
alasdair19 on 08 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: have used mythos extensively in the states a superb granite shoe though not too stiff, the stretch loads and are foot shaped so will become very comfy, resole ok and are excellent for thin cracks. they#re not very stiff at all.

have fun
breezewind - on 08 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

I'd too recommend La Sportiva TC Pros as their sole is stiff enough for edging on micros even with a comfortable size. They've designed for granite crack/microedge all-day climbing on a big wall. They also cover your ankle, protecting it when crack climbing. This feature also makes them a bit warmer which is good if the weather is a bit colder. But they do have small holes in the side of the shoe to provide extra ventilation. Streches a half size. TC Pros also have a P3 mid-sole, which helps the shoe to maintain it's shape over time.

I have also Scarpa Forces as my all-day trad/multipitch shoe. They're not quite as stiff, but the friction is a bit better (XS Grip vs. XS Edge in TCPros). With velcros they're really easy and fast to take off at belays. Doesn't stretch much, as they're fully synthetic.

Seems that Scarpa has replaced XS Grip with XS Edge for their newer model Force X. I find them both really comfortable shoes. My feet are greek style (Morton's toe), otherwise quite average.

I hope this helps.
kirsten on 08 May 2013
In reply to GridNorth: telemark Pyrenees stock them and deliver to the uk, if you get lucky with your size. just ordered me a new pair but still thinking of mythos for super comfort....
snoop6060 - on 08 May 2013
In reply to breezewind:

Its unlikely I will be able to actually see them in the flesh, though I am in spain in a few weeks but would like a pair sorted before then as we're off to riglos which is going to require some confortable all day shoes. Shame really as I do like Sportiva boots having had many pairs in the past.
breezewind - on 09 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

From La Sportiva one could also consider the Katana Lace, which comes also with P3 rand and XS Edge. Especially if your feet are on the narrow side. Tried them on week ago and they were pretty comfortable as they have softish interior.

There's also an all-day trad shoe Scarpa Techno, but I've never seen a pair available in a shop. I guess they're an older model...

I hope you'll manage to find the shoes. There's a Barrabes Outlet in Huesca near Riglos, if you don't get it sorted beforehand :)
ice.solo - on 09 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

is it just where i am, or are TC pros almost double the cost of most other shoes?
snoop6060 - on 09 May 2013
In reply to ice.solo:

Where are you and how much are they?

I cannot get a uk price, but in the states they appear to be $180! 10 more than the solutions.
snoop6060 - on 09 May 2013
In reply to breezewind:

Probably should have noted, it have really wide feet. Tried the katana laces before for sport climbing boots, shame they didn't fit. I've got Muira lace up and velcros instead.
Muel - on 09 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

I've had 5.10 Newtons and Spires. I bought the Newtons too small, so they were a bit painful, but the spires are great, I can wear them for hours without any hassle. Just wish they were a bit stiffer! I would have bought more newtons in the correct size, but I can't find them anywhere. :(
snoop6060 - on 09 May 2013
In reply to Muel:

A mate had the newtons, they didn't last. I want a pair good for multiple resoles really.

I'm struggling to find anyone who actually sells the sportiva mythos...... Anyone know anywhere that isn't amazon?
Muel - on 09 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

Mine lasted for ages, and I'm a big fat sod. They do have a couple of design flaws though, like if you walk on slightly damp grass (as is often the case when walking off the top of any crag), your feet get wet.
ice.solo - on 09 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

tokyo.

most other shoes are between $100 and $160, but TC pros are $220!
i still like em tho.
FrankBooth - on 09 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:
I've got a pair of lace-up La Sportiva Jeckyls - http://www.joe-brown.com/outdoor-equipment/la_sportiva_jeckyl
They're great comfort-wise, and once the leather has shaped to your feet you can comfortably wear them for hours. The only real down-side is the dye they use - even after 6 months they still leave my feet bright orange.
alasdair19 on 09 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: sportiva UK have them in stock.so a shop can order them in for you, outside in hathersage ?
john spence - on 09 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: I always go for a bargain if poss'.Yesterday I bought a pair of Mad Rock Nomads for 20. from go outdoors...one was faded after being on display, they replace my really old boreal jokers which my daughter spotted at a car boot sale...new, boxed 3.00! guy wanted a fiver but she haggled. They have been so comfy.Also got a pair of Vertes but 40 mins tops in those.
ice.solo - on 10 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

as it goes was in a gear shop today. i tried some tarantulas on and had a 5min boulder in them.
very different shoe: much roomier toe box, not nearly as stiff and heel harder to lock down compared to TC pros.
more comfortable tho because they were more shoe-like and less forced (not that TC pros are very forced by climbing shoe standards tho).

my foot is scrawny, all tendon and bone, with slightly longer 2nd toe (enough to hurt in very asymmetric shoes). also, the TC pros and tarantulas are the only sportiva shoes that feel comfortable on me (other than running and climbing boots which i could have been the model for).

hope that helps.
snoop6060 - on 10 May 2013
In reply to ice.solo:

Cheers, just noticed go outdoors stock them and quite a few of the scrapas that are recommended on here. Will head there today. Bonus as they are all cheap.
vertigo714 - on 10 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: Unless ive missed something on my quickk scroll down, how has nobody mentioned Boreal Jokers! They are proper beginner shoes, but like wearing slippers, and they have good rubber, and good for crack climbing. I have climbed 600m 7a routes in them so they get my vote!!
ewaaser - on 14 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060:
Highly recommend La Sportiva Mythos for all day trad. On my second pair plus a resole and will definitely buy another pair when these finally give out!
Fraser on 14 May 2013
In reply to ewaaser:

Mythos? Comfortable for a whole day out, yes, but stiff (as requested by theOP)they definitely ain't!
cicero - on 14 May 2013
In reply to snoop6060: Thanks for phrasing this issue better than I did when I put it up last Friday.I've been doing an online search that's thrown up Scarpa Thunder XSG and Scarpa Force X .Was recommended 2 shoes also (climber/shop assistant at national outdoors shop-)Evolv defy and scarpa Reflex .Do you detect a theme emerging?I'm looking because of the damage done to my feet by a shoe that's brilliant but acutely painful.best of luck
Panick - on 15 May 2013
In reply to vertigo714: I second this guy, Ive just bought a pair of Jokers, always dismissed them as a "beginners shoe" and not for me. But they are amazingly comfy and seem to climb well.

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