/ Advice about removing a loose block (Causey Quarry)

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martinph78 on 07 May 2013
There is a well documented loose block on the Hangover at Causey Quarry:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=47942

I was looking at this today and it only needs a swift kick for it to be removed. I guess that'll change the grade of the climb but I can't see anyone using it as part of the route now anyway. It would be a very brave person to stand/climb beneath it as it hangs now to be honest.

What is the best thing to do in this situation? I'm happy to remove the block next time I am there but don't want to upset anyone. I think it's pretty clear that no one will be using it as a hold and I'm sure many are avoiding the whole climb until it has fallen.

There are also a lot of kids/families/drunks who play around at the bottom of the quarry as it is on a public footpath to the tourist attraction of Causey Arch. I'd hate for it to fall on one of them.

It'll change the route a bit, but it will also open it back up to be climbed and make it safer for everyone.






Morgan P - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Martin1978: I's say remove it. It's one thing having a wobbly flake or something but a big block loose is an accident waiting to happen. But then I don't live any where near here so am only going on what you've said
martinph78 on 07 May 2013
In reply to Morgan P: That does seem the only sensible course of action. I'm wondering why no one else has removed it yet, especially as it was initially flagged in 2009. I think it might be a lot worse now than it was then though.
Lew13 - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Martin1978:

Has it got significantly worse? It was always loose & wobbly when I've climbed there - this was a few years ago.

ablackett - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Martin1978: This came up in 2009 http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=361961

Nobody objected to the view of "trundle the bugger" a quote which I have remembered for the past 4 years.

I have never got round to shifting it, I think it would be quite tricky to remove safely, you would have to be above it and reaching down to free it to make sure it didn't kill you when it came out. I would say if you can get it out it's obviously dangerous, if you can't then no harm done.

Either way you are doing everyone a favour by trying - just stay safe.
martinph78 on 07 May 2013
In reply to Stewy12: I don't know what it was like a couple of years ago, but it's visibly hanging out rather than just wobbly.

No way I'm climbing or standing beneath it.
martinph78 on 07 May 2013
In reply to ablackett: Thanks for that link. As there were no objections back then I'll remove it next time I'm down there, will be in the next few days or so.

I can't see it taking much to remove it but will make sure I do remove it rather than just making it a bit worse and more dangerous.

Cheers, Martin
blackreaver - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Martin1978: It looked pretty precarious when I saw you there. I'm glad my partner didn't attempt that bit!
martinph78 on 07 May 2013
In reply to blackreaver: Going to head up tomorrow and get rid of it before the weekend. Feel a bit uneasy about leaving it now I know about it. I would hate to hear of someone getting hurt when it does drop out.
Morgan P - on 08 May 2013
In reply to Martin1978: nice one Martin, remember to keep the dead rope on your abseil at the top and pull down what you need rather than letting it hang beneath you. Last thing you need is the block chopping your rope on the way down
flaneur - on 08 May 2013
In reply to Martin1978:

Ask these guys: http://www.vimeo.com/52653452
goose299 - on 08 May 2013
In reply to flaneur:
Christ, you wouldn't want that hitting you on the way down
Morgan P - on 08 May 2013
In reply to flaneur: Holy shit! That's definitely a death block.

I remember when I was up in Isle of Skye on Sron na Ciche last summer - the year after the big rock fall up there in 2011. Most of the loose rock had been cleared but going up Cioch Direct I went to pull on a rock realising after it started to move that it was a boulder about the size of my torso balanced on an A5 sized ledge. Call down to the belayer about 10m below was "if I shout rock, I don't mean some little pebbles scattering down, I mean ROCK"
martinph78 on 08 May 2013
In reply to Martin1978: Job done!

It didn't take a lot to move it. Every wobble up and down released more and more debris before it finally just fell out. I think a couple more climbers pulling up on it or some persistent heavy rain would have been enough to release it.

I leave it for someone else to climb and re-grade it if needed :) I think possibly one grade higher as you've lost a good pull-up and been left with a crack under an overhang now, but I never climbed it before the blcok was removed so don't know.
martinph78 on 08 May 2013
In reply to flaneur: That was a bit more impressive!
The Mole - on 08 May 2013
In reply to Martin1978: Sounds very sensible.

The next NE BMC meeting is on 6th June. If you have any issues removing it, or have second thoughts about your course of action you could wait and raise it then.
martinph78 on 08 May 2013
In reply to The Mole: It is out now, as I say, no doubt it was the right choice as it came out quite easily and was only held in by muck.

Pics here (and yes, we cleared the ropes to the side before I touched the block):

BEFORE: http://sdrv.ms/11XOzvh

AFTER: http://sdrv.ms/11XOzvh


BLOCK (measured 12"x18"x8" so it's staying where it is!): http://sdrv.ms/11XOzvh

Stamford Raffles - on 08 May 2013
In reply to Martin1978: I think you've made the right decision, cheers for doing it.
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Morgan P - on 08 May 2013
In reply to Martin1978: nice one, good job!

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