/ Climbs on Lundy that are not restricted.
There are some ideas here:
From the RAD link, you can't climb on the crags below. I got the guide out and stuck post-its on the crags not mentioned and then chose routes based on that sub-set. You can always then look at the logbooks for comments on specific routes, etc.
Enjoy your trip.
Bird Banned Cliffs on Lundy
Back of the Slide
Black Jack Zawn
Christos Bitas Buttress
Cross Dyke Buttress
Crunchy Toed Zawn
Dead Cow Point
Devil's Chimney Cliff
Double Headed Zawn
Fog Horn Zawn
Grand Falls Zawn
Great Shutter Rock
Hidden Slab Area
Long Roost Ridge
North Light Channel
North Light cliffs
Old Light Cliff
Rock Pool Buttress
St James' Stone
St John's Stone
St Mark's Stone
St Peter's Stone
Short Story Zawn
Small Black Crag
Squires View Cliff
Ten Foot Zawn
Torrey Canyon Cliff
Wolfman Jack Wall
The selfish gits
Usually (although as Al says check with the warden on the island) you can climb on the Devil's Slide (the eponymous route, Albion and Satan's Slip are all mega-classic and Shark's not bad either), Flying Buttress (Double Diamond, Diamond Solitaire and Horseman's Route are all great), Landing Craft Bay (Shamrock is good and Meninirons is apparently ace, P1 of Roadrunner is a brilliant VS crack that you can ab back down, Indy 500 is meant to be brilliant, and Centaur is good fun) and Focal Buttress (Ulysses Factor is a great day out, although the start's a bit spooky).
There's a few smaller buttresses you can entertain yourself on too (Kistvaen, Pilot's Quay). And it's a lovely place. Don't be tempted to the East side of the island though. It's bobbins.
Couldn't agree more: the Knights Templar definately look way better than they are.
Though there is a (very hard) second pitch that was desperate even with a peg for aid when we did it. Belayer is at the ab off point. I agree the first pitch is worth doing in its own right.
It gets a much bigger billing in the new guide. I'd never have spotted it in the old one if it wasn't for your recommendation. I reckon it's a contender for the best VS pitch on the island (although the main pitch of Albion might beat it).
Really? I don't get the popularity of this route (well, I do, obviously; accessibility and convenience). But the climbing seemed very ordinary to me; I'd say there were many better VSses on the island.
Still, each to his own, of course.
You might argue that the first pitch of Diamond Solitaire was better, but it's often greasy and horrible. Shamrock is a good route, but none of the pitches have such consistently good climbing. Eclipse is a faff to get to and too easy to be VS, The Black Hand is similarly faffy, although at least it is actually VS (but I don't think as good). Nonexpectus Jugsimisius is great, but the climbing eases off pretty quickly.
Well, yes, all of those. Also The Devil's Chimney. But actually Lundy's a bit short of really good VSses, come to think of it. Though there's probably some away from the regular canon which I don't know about.
I just didn't like that belay with all the tangle of pegs and stuff, I suppose. Also the climbing in the crack seemed a bit ordinary and the foot-jamming a little sharp-edged.
I said it was a contender for the best VS pitch, not the best VS. The Devil's Chimney is undoubtedly a brilliant adventure, but the climbing on any one pitch isn't that amazing. It's also (like Nonexpectus) HVS in the latest guide.
Thinking about it the arete of the Needle (Invincible?) is pretty good. I don't think Lundy is undersupplied with decent VSs, although getting up to HVS/E1 does open up a load of proper classics.
The belay is quite unaesthetic, and awkwardly cramped, but that's hardly the end of the world. As for the climbing - it's brilliant. Sustained at the grade, super well-protected, I don't know what's not to like unless you hate cracks. And it's a very nice looking line. I wasn't bothered by the foot jamming at all, but I have weird feet and quite like that sort of thing. I haven't heard anybody else complaining about it though.
Maybe if you hated crack climbing you wouldn't like it, but it's fairly unusual to get relatively long, sustained VS crack pitches in the UK.
Well, Al, I've lost count but I think this summer will be my 14th, so we're equal there.
I haven't got the new guide - I see the creeping upgrading process hasn't missed out the island though!
No, I really like crack climbing. Must have just been me.
Devil's Chimney was upgraded due to rockfall wiping out the start of the first pitch. It's now HVS 5b.
> Devil's Chimney was upgraded due to rockfall wiping out the start of the first pitch. It's now HVS 5b.
Wasn't it boulder movement rather than rockfall? Anyway, last September I was unable to make the new HVS 5b first pitch description fit anything, and found both a VS 4c first pitch in about the right place, and also an easy scramble that avoided the first pitch entirely, so I suspect things have changed again.
We didn't have time to even go for a look - no doubt it'll have changed again before our next trip!
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