/ Climbs on Lundy that are not restricted.

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bombshell - on 09 May 2013
The BMC rad page says that there are approx 30 cliffs that arnt protected due to nesting birds, does anybody know any and any decent climbs up to E1 worth doing? Thanks
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=245
AndrewHuddart - on 09 May 2013
In reply to bombshell:

There are some ideas here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=538348

From the RAD link, you can't climb on the crags below. I got the guide out and stuck post-its on the crags not mentioned and then chose routes based on that sub-set. You can always then look at the logbooks for comments on specific routes, etc.

Enjoy your trip.

Bird Banned Cliffs on Lundy

Alpine Buttress
Arch Zawn
Back of the Slide
Banana Buttress
Beaufort Buttress
Beef Buttress
Benson's Buttress
Big Zawn
Black Crag
Black Jack Zawn
Bomber Buttress
Box Zawn
Buddha Buttress
The Cheeses
Christos Bitas Buttress
Cormorant Zawn
Crenellation Buttress
Cross Dyke Buttress
Crunchy Toed Zawn
Cyclops Zawn
Dead Cow Point
Deep Zawn
Devil's Chimney
Devil's Chimney Cliff
Devil's Tower
The Diamond
Double Headed Zawn
Egyptian Slabs
Fighter Buttress
Fluted Face
Fog Horn Zawn
Forgotten Pinnacle
The Fortress
Funfair Zawn
Gannet's Buttress
Gannet's Rock
Ghostbusters Wall
Grand Falls Zawn
Great Shutter Rock
Heron Zawn
Hidden Slab Area
Hidden Zawn
Jemima Buttress
Lifeboat Buttress
Long Roost Ridge
Marisco Walls
Narrow Zawn
Needle Rock
North Light Channel
North Light cliffs
Ocean Promontory
Old Light Cliff
Parthenos
Pathfinder Slabs
Phantom Zawn
Punchbowl Cliff
The Pyramind
Rock Pool Buttress
St James' Stone
St John's Stone
St Mark's Stone
St Peter's Stone
Seal Slab
Short Story Zawn
Silver Slabs
Small Black Crag
Squires View Cliff
Starship Zawn
Storm Zawn
Sunset Promontory
Ten Foot Zawn
Torrey Canyon Cliff
Two-Legged Buttress
Two-Legged Zawn
Winston's Wall
Wolfman Jack Wall
Wonderlands Wall




Al Evans on 09 May 2013
In reply to AndrewHuddart: The other thing is to check with the warden at Lundy Office as some restricted places are actually not, due to the birds not having nested there, you should always check anyhow as non restricted places may become restricted if rare birds breed there on a particular year.
Ava Adore - on 09 May 2013
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to AndrewHuddart) non restricted places may become restricted if rare birds breed there on a particular year.


The selfish gits
victim of mathematics - on 09 May 2013
In reply to bombshell:

Usually (although as Al says check with the warden on the island) you can climb on the Devil's Slide (the eponymous route, Albion and Satan's Slip are all mega-classic and Shark's not bad either), Flying Buttress (Double Diamond, Diamond Solitaire and Horseman's Route are all great), Landing Craft Bay (Shamrock is good and Meninirons is apparently ace, P1 of Roadrunner is a brilliant VS crack that you can ab back down, Indy 500 is meant to be brilliant, and Centaur is good fun) and Focal Buttress (Ulysses Factor is a great day out, although the start's a bit spooky).

There's a few smaller buttresses you can entertain yourself on too (Kistvaen, Pilot's Quay). And it's a lovely place. Don't be tempted to the East side of the island though. It's bobbins.
AndrewHuddart - on 09 May 2013
In reply to victim of mathematics:

> Don't be tempted to the East side of the island though. It's bobbins.

Couldn't agree more: the Knights Templar definately look way better than they are.
bombshell - on 09 May 2013
In reply to bombshell: Thanks for the help!
Al Evans on 10 May 2013
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> (In reply to bombshell)
P1 of Roadrunner is a brilliant VS crack that you can ab back down,

Though there is a (very hard) second pitch that was desperate even with a peg for aid when we did it. Belayer is at the ab off point. I agree the first pitch is worth doing in its own right.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=94543
victim of mathematics - on 10 May 2013
In reply to Al Evans:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=205797

It gets a much bigger billing in the new guide. I'd never have spotted it in the old one if it wasn't for your recommendation. I reckon it's a contender for the best VS pitch on the island (although the main pitch of Albion might beat it).
johncoxmysteriously - on 10 May 2013
In reply to victim of mathematics:

Really? I don't get the popularity of this route (well, I do, obviously; accessibility and convenience). But the climbing seemed very ordinary to me; I'd say there were many better VSses on the island.

Still, each to his own, of course.

jcm
victim of mathematics - on 10 May 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Such as?

You might argue that the first pitch of Diamond Solitaire was better, but it's often greasy and horrible. Shamrock is a good route, but none of the pitches have such consistently good climbing. Eclipse is a faff to get to and too easy to be VS, The Black Hand is similarly faffy, although at least it is actually VS (but I don't think as good). Nonexpectus Jugsimisius is great, but the climbing eases off pretty quickly.
johncoxmysteriously - on 10 May 2013
In reply to victim of mathematics:

Well, yes, all of those. Also The Devil's Chimney. But actually Lundy's a bit short of really good VSses, come to think of it. Though there's probably some away from the regular canon which I don't know about.

I just didn't like that belay with all the tangle of pegs and stuff, I suppose. Also the climbing in the crack seemed a bit ordinary and the foot-jamming a little sharp-edged.

jcm
victim of mathematics - on 10 May 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I said it was a contender for the best VS pitch, not the best VS. The Devil's Chimney is undoubtedly a brilliant adventure, but the climbing on any one pitch isn't that amazing. It's also (like Nonexpectus) HVS in the latest guide.

Thinking about it the arete of the Needle (Invincible?) is pretty good. I don't think Lundy is undersupplied with decent VSs, although getting up to HVS/E1 does open up a load of proper classics.

The belay is quite unaesthetic, and awkwardly cramped, but that's hardly the end of the world. As for the climbing - it's brilliant. Sustained at the grade, super well-protected, I don't know what's not to like unless you hate cracks. And it's a very nice looking line. I wasn't bothered by the foot jamming at all, but I have weird feet and quite like that sort of thing. I haven't heard anybody else complaining about it though.

Maybe if you hated crack climbing you wouldn't like it, but it's fairly unusual to get relatively long, sustained VS crack pitches in the UK.
Al Evans on 10 May 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: John, as a Lundy veteran of 14 visits I am sure that the first pitch of Roadrunner is one of the best Vs's on the Island. It is sustained with interest and would be a 3* VS almost anywhere in the country. The only thing that mars it is that it does not have a good similarly graded second pitch. I am sure it has been resolved now but the last time I did it ,it was still doubtful that second pitch had ever been done free, anyway even with a peg for aid it was way hard for VS and spoilt the route. I think this is one of the few routes in the UK that is better if you bail out of the second pitch.
johncoxmysteriously - on 10 May 2013
In reply to Al Evans:

Well, Al, I've lost count but I think this summer will be my 14th, so we're equal there.

I haven't got the new guide - I see the creeping upgrading process hasn't missed out the island though!

jcm
johncoxmysteriously - on 10 May 2013
In reply to victim of mathematics:

No, I really like crack climbing. Must have just been me.

jcm
Simon Caldwell - on 10 May 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> I see the creeping upgrading process hasn't missed out the island though!

Devil's Chimney was upgraded due to rockfall wiping out the start of the first pitch. It's now HVS 5b.
victim of mathematics - on 10 May 2013
In reply to Toreador:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
> [...]
>
> Devil's Chimney was upgraded due to rockfall wiping out the start of the first pitch. It's now HVS 5b.

Wasn't it boulder movement rather than rockfall? Anyway, last September I was unable to make the new HVS 5b first pitch description fit anything, and found both a VS 4c first pitch in about the right place, and also an easy scramble that avoided the first pitch entirely, so I suspect things have changed again.
Simon Caldwell - on 10 May 2013
In reply to victim of mathematics:
We didn't have time to even go for a look - no doubt it'll have changed again before our next trip!

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