/ NEWS: A Denti Stretti - Granite 8b+ on Trad for James Pearson
Balma1 is a small granite crag found in Valle d'Ossola, near to the Swiss border in Northern Italy.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68043
Well played, sir.
Is he wearing some sort of crack gloves in that picture, or does he just have naturally blue hands?
You can see his fingers so I guess it's just tape maybe?
Like it! That is in essence what it's all about!
Obviously Italy has a totally different ethic to the UK, but would it ever get to the point where someone removed the bolts because they thought they were unnecessary? Presumably 8b+ on trad gear, even if well-protected (it's a crack so I guess it is) must be about E9(?), so hardly a pushover...
> Obviously Italy has a totally different ethic to the UK, but would it ever get to the point where someone removed the bolts because they thought they were unnecessary?
Revelations 8a+/b ( http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=15490 ) has been solo'ed at Raven Tor..in 1985.....perhaps one of the hardest UK headpoints by Antoine Le Menestrel and only a year after Moffat's first ascent of this old aid line.
Does that mean that the bolts should be removed because of the 'British ethic' (what is that ethic exactly, where retro bolting of trad routes is now accepted).
There is a bit of a trend, in the USA and other places, where routes protected by bolts, are climbed without, usually the bolts stay in.
Tom Randall could tell you a lot more about this, but I understand some Italians are getting well into climbing their cracks trad-style and one or two routes have indeed been debolted, and not always in an entirely consensual way
> JCM could use one of those for his trip to the SW.
Ah yes, The Crusader!
Good effort James! Hardest trad crack in Europe at moment I reckon. Certainly a step up from Greenspit.
Would comment on the bolting thing..... but just looked at the weather outside :-)
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