/ Lord of the Flies
Gear description in comments.
Ha! I made a gear topo of LOTF for Neil Foster after doing it in 1988. Neil didn't do it till 1992 (by which time he'd lost my list), however, it had completely changed. Quite a few of the apparently 'bombproof' placements had completely disappeared! The Cromlech rock is rather brittle so don't take someone's word as gospel.
Its an American can, think the metolius cams are similar or aliens?
One of these, I guess. Not universally comforting reviews below.
Crucial things I remember are small hex (2 or 3) although probably something else would do. Sling with lots of stuff to weigh it down and poss a biggish friend to stick down the back of the spike to help stop the sling lifting. Big wire to thread the hole (easier than a sling although a sling would be less damaging to the rock in the event of a fall). The upper wall is more conventional although a biggish hex (size 6 or 7ish) and sideways rock 8 in a horizontal slot just below the top may be useful.
Having a bad day?
I arrived at that first large hole with some relief, thinking "Ah - gear!" Half an hour or so later, and getting increasingly pumped, I was still fiddling around with absolutely nothing to show for my efforts - and I'm usually fairly good at getting stuff in. There seemed to be numerous things that would almost fit and stay put, but not quite; maybe offsets would help. In the end I traversed off onto Right Wall and retreated, too stuffed and easily frightened to continue with no gear. I'd barely alighted on terra firma when someone arrived and showed me the hook he'd used the previous week to protect the next moves; I assume it's the piece a couple of feet above the hole in the photo. I think it might have been apparent too in that video awhile back showing Jude Spancken on the route.
Also re-read your post, but assume no knowledge of the background, and see how it reads. Not exactly inspiring.
> Big wire to thread the hole (easier than a sling although a sling would be less damaging to the rock in the event of a fall).
Less damaging indeed! That used to be a #1 Rock with the nut pushed back, the wire threaded up through the hole and a krab clipped into the top. It had to be a #1 as the cable on anything bigger wouldn't pass through the hole. Now it sounds like the swage will go through too?
Where actually is this wire thread, Jon? I think we had a Lord conversation some time ago and you could only remember one large hole; you can see both fairly clearly in the picture (as large chalk blotches).
Boldish initial section including a finger traverse right (from end of this traverse some folk put a sling on a spike with their right foot). Then go up to rest/gear. This is a sling and some poor gear on/behind a lump in a big hole. Just to right of this is a round hole (the splitter cam, or a tricam, or a WC rock 7ish nut, tricammed in). Then the crux trending leftwards on pockets to gain good gear. Then normal if mildly run-out climbing to the ledge then the top, with a cam of size 2/2.5/3 ish pretty damn useful just below the finishing groove which is not as easy as you might hope.
A good rack of cams and wires useful. Awesome route. Have fun!
Good luck, and hope you get the weather, it needs a wee while to dry.
Well I'm assuming it's where his left hand is. My recollection is that it was at the furthest leftward point of the route, which would fit in with the photo. After that, if I remember correctly it's quite straight forward, if pumpy, up to the girdle ledge. Of course it might have disappeared now, but as Tyler said 'a big wire to thread the hole', I assume it's still there.
Well it was in 1994, however, the bomber rock 4 which someone assured me was above this wasn't!
Likewise I got a couple of really bombproof medium-ish Rocks going left and up to the hole. These are apparently no longer with us. I can't remember where the original peg was - or indeed if it was there when I did it - but it must have been somewhere in that area.
There's a peg scar in the first big hole; I remember gazing at it ruefully.
It was so long ago, I'd forgotten too, Graeme.
> It was so long ago, I'd forgotten too, Graeme.
Very,very good reply.
It was a long time ago,mine on the insistance of Paul Wiliams to second a certain "Aussie bird" in trainers.
And was Louise impressed or pissed off?!
I was surprised by your post because this is a climbing forum and to have a discussion about one of the greatest trad routes in the UK is what this site should be all about - makes a change from the endless religious and political shite that is spouted.
LOTF is my dream route. Living in France and clipping bolts I don't know whether I'll ever again have a trad head on which will get me up Lord. I got up the section of rock 2m to the right over 10 years ago so who knows? I can still dream and be inspired by threads like this.
I love talking about stuff like this.
> And was Louise impressed or pissed off?!
Did you know Paul?
Yes, but apart from knowing who you seconded and in what footwear, I don't know the story...
> I love talking about stuff like this.
Yes, me too and that's why I was disappointed when I read the original post. It just seemed a bit lazy (no offence Dave if you're reading) i.e. I haven't bothered to do any legwork so I'll just ask. I want people to show some thought and effort.
I accept I'm reading into it and that equally the post could be read other ways (as it was hence a useful and interesting thread).
I guess it gets at a more general disappointment with what UKC has become. I recognise that the "It used to be better." vibe is a regular theme and that my knowledge and experience has a part to play, I simply don't get as much from it as before because I know more than I did.
However, my impression is that too many posts in Rocktalk are at best lazy but more likely rubbish and the quality, content and interest is vastly diminished versus what it used to be. My off the cuff response was as much a reaction to that as to the post itself.
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