/ Replacing pegs
What's the best technique for avoiding damaging the rock?
Judging by a lot of the routes in avon the tactic seems to have been to just bash a new peg in near the old one and leave both. Ideally I'd like to do a tidy a job as possible....assuming it's ethical to even replace pegs?
I can sence the UKC trad ethics police homing in on this thread
It varies from area to area, but the consensus in Avon is that like-for-like replacement is ok. This was decided and voted for at the 2012 BMC South-West area meeting and the launch for the Avon gorge rejuvenation project (ClimbBristol) so I don't think you need have any ethical concerns!
(assuming the usual considerations, that can essentially be summarised as "if you're going to do it, do it properly")
Luck of the draw, I´ve probably removed about 25 pegs in the last year and some come out with a light tap and some just snap straight off, one I pulled in the Franken last year broke under the weight of the sling I clipped to it!
The stubs eventually rust away and dissapear, though we are probably talking decades judging by the Swanage experience.
Jesus! Really? I'd fall on a knife blade over an entire nest of ball nuts any day!
im cool with ball-nuts in granite, but seaside sandstone is another level.
fair point tho if it prevents future pegging on soft rock.
arent ball-nuts hard to get in britain tho?
> arent ball-nuts hard to get in britain tho?
I dont think so, they're sold here at least: http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Camming-Devices/Micro-Cams/Lowe-Ballnu...
Sure ive seen them in other places as well.
seems i had it wrong. i thought there was some issue with CE rating, like with big bros, evidently not so. or maybe just the trango stamped ones.
> Jesus! Really? I'd fall on a knife blade over an entire nest of ball nuts any day!
You need to see how small the bit of knifeblade hidden in the crack is first! A small one isn't very big at all!
I'd take a skyhook over a ball nut :D
Only time I ever tried placing a ballnut, it fell out when I was 2 moves higher up and only time I've played around with one, it seemed pretty hard to get it to properly stick in the crack so I couldn't just yank it out with my hand. Maybe I just need more practice!
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