/ Belays at the Whangie

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chrismcd23 on 10 May 2013
I am thinking about checking out this crag as I am going to be based in this area for a while. I have heard reports that the belay set ups at the top are not great..... can anyone shed some light on this? What are they really like? Do I need any particular gear to make it work?

Thanks
JLS on 10 May 2013
In reply to chrismcd23:

The rock at the top is very friable and not to be trusted. That's said I'd have thought an experience climber would be able to arrange an adaquate belay for most stuff there. A lot of the climbs are on a fin of rock and it is some times required to down climb the rear "easy" side to search for anchors. One of the classic VS's has an excelent belay at a huge chock stone, so it's not ALL bad.
elsewhere on 10 May 2013
In reply to chrismcd23:
Some (many?) routes top out on rotten/vegetated stuff.

Can't think of any specific gear, maybe cordellette for lassoing stuff or just use your rope.

Backstep Chimney & Ivy Crack area relatively solid.
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AlH - on 10 May 2013
In reply to chrismcd23: Its a narrow ridge (almost a wall and not very wide at the top, a part of the hillside plucked away from the main bulk and separated from it by a narrow passage) of rock (often loose). Most of the best climbing is on the outside of the feature. Its a long time since I climbed there but on several routes I used to down climb/ get lowered on the opposite side from the route and belay from the ground using the top of the ridge as a running belay (a square of carpet or other rope protector can be useful). Partner can second and get lowered back down on route side.
Beware there are regular accidents there owing to loose rock but there are a few routes worth doing to.

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