/ Belays at the Whangie
The rock at the top is very friable and not to be trusted. That's said I'd have thought an experience climber would be able to arrange an adaquate belay for most stuff there. A lot of the climbs are on a fin of rock and it is some times required to down climb the rear "easy" side to search for anchors. One of the classic VS's has an excelent belay at a huge chock stone, so it's not ALL bad.
Some (many?) routes top out on rotten/vegetated stuff.
Can't think of any specific gear, maybe cordellette for lassoing stuff or just use your rope.
Backstep Chimney & Ivy Crack area relatively solid.
Beware there are regular accidents there owing to loose rock but there are a few routes worth doing to.
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