/ NEWS: PHOTOS: Jordan Buys Repeats Rainshadow 9a and More

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UKC News - on 10 May 2013
Jordan Buys on Rainshadow, 9a at Malham Cove, Yorkshire, 4 kbAfter considerable effort Jordan Buys wrote his name in history last Friday when he repeated Rainshadow F9a, at Malham.

Jordan's ascent of Rainshadow, the third after Adam Ondra's second ascent in 2011, is the first repeat of a Steve McClure F9a by a Brit...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68045

jacobjlloyd - on 10 May 2013
In reply to UKC News: Stonking effort Jordan!!! Great to hear.
Bulls Crack - on 10 May 2013
In reply to jacobjlloyd:

Awesome yes..but no mention of me redpointing Rose Coronary earlier in the afternoon....very unbalanced reporting imo.
pork pie girl - on 12 May 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack: lol
schroeds - on 15 May 2013
In reply to UKC News: All a bit samey those routes, no?
Quiddity - on 15 May 2013
In reply to schroeds:

No.
Quiddity - on 15 May 2013
In reply to schroeds:

To be a bit more helpful - I don't know if you have climbed at malham or how much you have done there, but all of the routes are super technical. There are virtually no holds that are on the 'right way up' - nearly everything is an undercut or a sidepull/gaston - so even though the rock on many of the routes looks quite similar (especially from the ground), they all climb very differently. I've certainly never been on any of the routes in question but from having seen people on them, they look anything but 'samey' in terms of how they climb.
pork pie girl - on 15 May 2013
In reply to Quiddity: would second this... ticking any of the harder routes at malham takes a tremendous amount of hard work..infact the easier routes also take alot of figuring out too.. and then to tick a 9a there (or anywhere)... is absolutely amazing.. i think most folk will find this inspiring and can only serve to help them keep going with their own projects.. it's certainly put fire in my belly.. bat route was RP'd last night.. again another brilliant effort.

and i can see that there are likely to be some impressive ticks from the girls there this season too.. can't wait!! (that doesn't include me by the way :O).. but i would love to see UKC reporting on that as and when it happens

Ally Smith on 15 May 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Was it Jon who got Bat Route done? Same guy that fell off on the headwall twice on Saturday?

How dry was Something Stupid/Unjustified looking?
Morgan Woods - on 15 May 2013
In reply to UKC News:

"and now Jordan has shown that it's possible for a Brit to get in on the action too."

i thought he was a Saffa.....not that there's anything wrong with that :p
pork pie girl - on 15 May 2013
In reply to ally smith: i wasn't at malham of saturday but i saw him on it a couple of fridays ago .. and yes taking whippers off the headwall.. his name is john.. young, ginger/auburn hair. looked really strong and steady on it last night.

i was on the left handside last night so didn't pay alot of attention to SS/unjustified but sarah was on frankenstein and i had a general look around and the righthand side didn't strike me as looking wet.

we slept in the van last night in the village, it chucked it down all night and this morning.. it's bound to cause significant seepage at the crag.. but i'm no expert... i'll be back there tomorrow regardless

IainWhitehouse - on 15 May 2013
In reply to ally smith: I'm pretty sure Joe did Unjustified yesterday so I assume it was dry then. Not to say it hasn't got damper now though after all the rain.
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Adam Lincoln - on 15 May 2013
In reply to schroeds:
> (In reply to UKC News) All a bit samey those routes, no?

You ever been to Malham?


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