/ Bowles - Inspiration / Serenade Arete

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CurlyStevo - on 22 May 2013
I tried the finish to these and failed at the end of last year. however the guide book diagram and text clearly show the finish to the left of the final arete and I tried the same finish to the picture below, is this actually wrong?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=203899
lukehodson on 22 May 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Both these routes finish directly up from the climber in the photo. It had me stumped for a bit, but actually it's not too bad - just need to go for it and be prepared to grovel, fairly typical SS top out.

Which guidebook is that btw? New CC guide/jingo? I only have the old CC guide.
CurlyStevo - on 22 May 2013
In reply to lukehodson:
I have the latest southern sandstone CC guide and I would say the description and line does not follow the line straight above where the climber is, however perhaps that is a misprint.
Gordon Stainforth - on 22 May 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

As Luke Hodson says, it's straight up. It's actually a brilliant crux mantelshelf, one of the best cruxes on S E Sandstone.
CurlyStevo - on 22 May 2013
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I did wonder hence the post, but the CC guide line needs moving I think. I must say I was quite disappointed when I came to the crux you describe, horrible sandy awkward climbing after some really nice rock below it.
Gordon Stainforth - on 22 May 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

I remember it being dead clean, on the equivalent of the best rock on S E sandstone.
CurlyStevo - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
not any more! you can see erosion in the photo!
CurlyStevo - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Does the crux go in to the concave section just to the climbers right shoulder? It is possible I was a bit off line.
Bob Moulton - on 23 May 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: CC guidebook co-author Robin Mazinke was unable to post, but has the following to say:

'Looking at the photo, many years ago quite a few did finish straight up from where the climber is standing, however most do finish a bit to the left, in fact pretty much exactly where the line is in the diagram on page 61 of the current CC guide, the line on page 59 is also about right maybe the top 5 or 6mm should curve to the right a bit.

However you’d probably start from the photo position, i.e. undercut pocket in left-hand but then step up and cross-over leftwards with the right-hand into the break that can be seen up and to the left, both hands into this, then both hands into the next break, smear feet on wall, right foot onto the first break and rock-over – so actually more of a high rock-over than a mantelshelf really.'
CurlyStevo - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Bob Moulton:
Thanks sounds like i was off line too far right, ill give it another go at some stage.....

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