/ Best UK sport climbing venues

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alanlgm - on 22 May 2013
I am looking to take a a group of mixed ability climbers on a sport weekend somewhere in the UK. Portland is a possibility but i was wondering if anyone had any other reccomendations.

cheers

al
Grahame N - on 22 May 2013
In reply to alanlgm:
Have a look at this http://www.smc.org.uk/publications/?ID=68
A weekend at Weem & Glen Ogle (or Dunkeld if they are fit) for example would be good.
The Ex-Engineer - on 22 May 2013
In reply to alanlgm: Decent low grade sport routes in the UK are still a relative rarity.

Giggleswick South jumps out as a decent alternative option for a genuinely mixed group but you probably can't go too wrong with Portland assuming you show some common sense and avoid the Cuttings.
Nic DW - on 22 May 2013
In reply to alanlgm:

Climbed in Portland once and thought it was really excellent!
alanlgm - on 23 May 2013
In reply to alanlgm:

I do agree that Portland is a great venue for sports climbing and has something for everyone but some of us have been there a lot so i was looking for a change.

Portland might end up being the best option although i still would like other suggestions plese folks.

cheers

Al
rockcat - on 23 May 2013
In reply to alanlgm: The A55 crags in North Wales should suit your requirements. 13 very accessible crags in a relatively small area offering 280 routes from F3 - F8b and a lot of variety. Many lower standard routes as well especially at the wonderful Castle Inn.
http://www.pesdapress.com/Climbing-&-mountaineering-Climbing/c10_30/p36/A55-Sport-Climbs/product...

> (In reply to alanlgm)
> I do agree that Portland is a great venue for sports climbing and has something for everyone but some of us have been there a lot so i was looking for a change.

> Portland might end up being the best option although i still would like other suggestions plese folks.
>
> cheers
>
> Al

The Ivanator - on 23 May 2013
In reply to alanlgm: The breadth of route choice and grades at Portland is pretty much unrivalled in the UK, but in addition to some of the suggestions made already here are a few more to consider:
Winspit, best of the Swanage sport quarries, good range of grades, plenty of decent lines particularly on Quarryman's Wall, some suspect rock.
Ban y Gor (Wye), best quality routes are in the higher grades, but there is enough there to keep a sub 6a climber entertained for at least a day.
Trevor Rocks (Llangollen), plenty of routes up to around F6c, largely unmemorable, but there are a few gems - could be combined with A55 crags or Llanberis Slate over a weekend.
Llanberis Slate, maybe the best option outside Portland, get the Ground Up guide and you'll find there is loads to go at, some of the levels in Australia have a multitude of routes in the 5s and low 6s.
St. Bees Head in the Lakes, bolted sandstone with quality bouldering alongside (check for bird ban situation).
Cheddar Gorge, get the 2009 Cheddar Gorge Climbs by Martin Crocker to open up a host of options, the single pitch crags on the North Side of the Gorge have year round access and host a wide range of grades.
South Wales, inland sandstone at Crags like Gilwern Hill and Crag X or options on the Gower peninsular - Rockfax do a downloadable guide to Gower Sport for a fiver, the crags with a good range of sub 6a climbing are limited though.
The Ivanator - on 23 May 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: Should read Crag X, Gilwern Hill (one location) and unlike much of the other inland Sport in South Wales it is Limestone - grades should meet your needs though. Could be combined with Gower or Wye over a. Weekend.

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