/ Dream of White Horses - Headcam

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robjob - on 22 May 2013
Hello all,

I've been playing with some footage my mate gave me of Dream of White Horses, decided to cut it together into a little film.

Sorry its not in 1080 HD, I have it but the Bolivian connection i have would just not cope with that size of upload so I reduced it down to standard format.

Also as many are discovering, including my mate, the GoPro 3's batteries are not its strong suit, it ran out before the last pitch.

I tried something different with the music as well, an alternative to the dubstep/trance etc which just didn't fit this sort of route.

Enjoy - its a fantastic route and not at all as hard or scary as I had been told, still utterly spectacular.

Rob

http://www.vimeo.com/66700969
Kemics - on 22 May 2013
In reply to robjob:

man I had no idea it was so chossy and snappy. Looks terrifying!
marknorman - on 22 May 2013
In reply to robjob:

Good stuff and great music
Gordon Stainforth - on 22 May 2013
In reply to robjob:

I think that's one of the best headcam climbing movies I've seen. Gives a really good impression of what it's like to be on it, almost as good as being there. But what a pity the last pitch wasn't included (because camera packed up).
robjob - on 22 May 2013
In reply to robjob: Thanks guys, yeah its exciting in a soggy Gogarth type of way, what made it more sporting was that it was really cold, cold hardly feel our feet and fingers. The last pitch came in the sun though which was perfect.

I will have to go back an film the last pitch, I have a bit of a movie making project on from the summer onwards whenI will be based back in Britain, I will be looking for willing volunteers to climb routes like this while I film,

Rob
Offwidth - on 22 May 2013
In reply to Kemics:

Its not choosy and snappy. The moves are on solid rock and are mainly HS with the odd well protected VS move but the route deserves HVS for situation and seriousness.
Jonny2vests - on 22 May 2013
In reply to Kemics:
> (In reply to robjob)
>
> man I had no idea it was so chossy and snappy.

It's not. Wen Zawn is clean and mostly bomber compared to somewhere like Red Walls.
derryclimbs - on 22 May 2013
In reply to robjob:

right, this one definitely goes on the 'to do' list!
Offwidth - on 22 May 2013
In reply to derryclimbs:

That's the boring bit...the main fun is the zawn headwall.
beardy mike - on 22 May 2013
In reply to Kemics: It just looks very discrete. It's not really - solid quarzite... it's all to do with the heat and pressure...
Kemics - on 22 May 2013
In reply to mike kann:

looks like a giant tottering pile of a chossy shale :)

Glad to hear it's solid in the flesh. On the wish list it goes
abseil on 22 May 2013
In reply to robjob:

Thanks for that - enjoyed it - hope you keep filming!
GridNorth - on 22 May 2013
In reply to robjob: It should be possible to get some decent filming of the last pitch from the headland. Your film is OK as far as headcam filming goes but I have to say that I feel sick and dizzy after watching it for a few minutes. That's a criticism of headcams not your filming by the way.
Gordon Stainforth - on 22 May 2013
In reply to GridNorth:

I think it gives a really good sense of the exposure.
TRip - on 22 May 2013
In reply to robjob: Shame you missed out the first pitch. It has some of the best climbing on it.
robjob - on 22 May 2013
In reply to GridNorth:

@Gridnorth: Yeah it was my first time to North Stack area and it struck me and an excellent place for filming, compact yet highly adventurous with serval different vantage points that could be rigged. As for the footage, yes that is one thing that head-cams suffer from, I did this firstly as a bit of an experiment to see what I could do quickly with only head-cam footage (and to test out the gopro3, which is one of the camera I will be using in Yosemite in October, as I have never used one before and normally shoot on a dslr; photography and moving into videography recently)

Also I uploaded this version as I thought it would be a bit more interesting to climbers who would like to see more of the route, it could do with a much heavier cut if it was just to a generic audience.

@Trip: Yeah, that did look good, I abbed down but it was gopping wet so decided on discretion and started half way up the 1st pitch on a corned ledge thing. (actually quite a lot of water on parts of the route - the bit where my partner says "how did you lead" that was because it was through a water streak)

@Gordon & Abseil: Thanks, that was the point, hence the title, I wanted to give the perspective of my second Mini who has only been climbing about 18months and about 90% of that indoors (although granted I did take him to Yosemite last year and we are set to go back an do the Nose this October - he is a quick learner)
Thats the beautiful thing I like and like to convey in my climbing, the improbable locations adventures you have during a route.

I very much plan to keep filming, I have a few other things in the pipeline, I (unfortunately?) am living in Bolivia that the moment which has the internet connection of an arthritic dail-up from 1995 so my uploads will wait till later this year when I get back to the UK for good.

And while it looks like a scary pile of choss, it is very solid, admittedly slightly weird to the touch, and the gear is fantastic. Just get on it. (perhaps pick a warmer day though!)

Rob
GridNorth - on 22 May 2013
In reply to robjob: I had the chance to make what would have been possibly the second ascent of this route. EWD wrote the description out for us, literally on the back of a fag packet. We couldn't do the first pitch because of a high running sea so we abseiled to the stance. We looked at the last pitch and thought no way and bottled out. I was furious when we returned a few weeks later when we had been reassured that, despite appearances, it was straoightforward. It was.
robjob - on 22 May 2013
In reply to GridNorth: No Way, thats an awesome "one that got away story" though, the last pitch does look slightly improbable for the grade but is some of the easier climbing. In fact the whole route looks a bit mad from the headland but once you get on it it all makes a bit more sense.

Rob
adam11 - on 22 May 2013
Nice film :) Solid but serious for the grade I thought. Needs intelligent rope work, but one of my all time fave routes.
adam11 - on 22 May 2013
Ever seen the film with 'Twariss you're a Hat' on it? Highly entertaining:)
robjob - on 22 May 2013
In reply to adam11:

Very true, single pitch grit E's don't prepare you for wet hanging belays in Wen and Concrete chimney and then the matter of keeping your second safe on the traverses, particularly the headwall. But then again thats why I wanted to do it, got my MIA training in the summer so perfect practice for that!

Never seen it but will look it up, the title alone sounds entertaining.

Rob
adam11 - on 22 May 2013
In reality, it was a film about Henry Barber? and Al Harris. I forget who came out with the apt quote of 'Twarris you're a hat' :) but in his defence, he was always good value.
Offwidth - on 22 May 2013
In reply to robjob:

You're right: grit E1s can be terrifying onsight for me. This is a joyous exposed romp.

My tip for the headwall is to get the weakest climber to lead the first section to an intermediate belay just at the bottom of the (crux) drop down. That sorts out a lot of the ropework problems as well.
duchessofmalfi - on 23 May 2013
I liked that the traverse was protected for the second in the "traditional" way...
BusyLizzie on 23 May 2013
In reply to robjob: Wonderful! I liked the detail - fingers trying to find a hold; taking gear out - and the music is good. Not a place I shall ever get to, so thank you for sharing it! Watched it just before packing for Snowdonia for the weekend - but heading for rather easier routes.
robjob - on 23 May 2013
In reply to BusyLizzie: Your welcome, inn that way the footage worked out ok with closeups of hands etc, give a good climbers perspective of what it takes to make the moves.

Glad you like the music, something a little different, I thought that it did not suit something electronic but that I still needed a tempo to mimic the tension.

Rob
Rigid Raider - on 23 May 2013
In reply to robjob:

Wow! What a route! I haven't climbed now for about sixteen years but this really took me back. The very last climb I did was Heart of Darkness, also spectacularly exposed but technically not hard, on superb dry fingery limestone sea cliff. How I wish I had time for those long lazy weekends with good friends in places like Pembroke, the smell of the lichen on my hands, the warm breeze, the sea gurgling beneath my feet.... *sniff*

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