/ Cassin Ridge, Denali - What gear?

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TRip - on 22 May 2013
A while ago I wrote a blog on top tips for Denali's West Buttress. Someone commented asking if I'd do a similar a piece on the gear I took on the Cassin Ridge.

I've finally got around to writing it up, it is unashamedly geeky I'm afraid. I've tried to proof read it, but please point out any of the inevitable errors.

http://www.tomripleyclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/the-gear-for-cassin.html

Hope this is interesting/helpful.

Cheers,

TR


smithaldo - on 22 May 2013
In reply to TRip: that was interesting. One question I have been pondering recently is when we say about apline climbs, there were a couple of pitches of scottish grade y, and whether we tend to increase or decrease the grade from routes actually in scotland because taken in isolation they are not like the rest of the route?

i.e. you refer to a couple of pitches of V but it doesnt really look like scottish v in the crux pics (bearing in mind from below it never looks as hard) so is it that it 'feels' like V because of the situation/climbing you have already done or that it 'is' V?

And I suppose, why do we even try and say its scottish grade, when it isnt scotland?
TRip - on 22 May 2013
In reply to smithaldo:

>
> i.e. you refer to a couple of pitches of V but it doesnt really look like scottish v in the crux pics (bearing in mind from below it never looks as hard) so is it that it 'feels' like V because of the situation/climbing you have already done or that it 'is' V?

The bulge in the Japanese Couloir felt like the Rouge pitch at Easter. The "crux" bit above Cassin Ledge was probably easy IV. There was one pitch at the top of the 2nd rock band that felt V, apparently you can skirt round it though. There were another two or three short rocky steps that felt like IV 5 in isolation.
>
> And I suppose, why do we even try and say its scottish grade, when it isnt scotland?

I used a Scottish grade, because it is a grade that I and most other UK climbers can best relate too.

Good questions btw.
robjob - on 22 May 2013
In reply to TRip:

Quote of the Blog:

"Toothbrush - My mouth felt pretty minging at the end of it and cleaning my teeth back at 14k was semi-orgasmic. "

Alpinists, sexy bunch aren't we.

Bart Shaw on 22 May 2013
In reply to TRip: Thanks, I'd love to do the Cassin and I found that blog post and your film really interesting and inspiring, sounds like you had a pretty good ratio of fun/suffering!
TRip - on 23 May 2013
Damo must be still frothing at the mouth about Kenton's style that he hasn't had chance to lay into me... yet.
Mr Fuller on 23 May 2013
In reply to TRip: Really good post. 'Unashamedly geeky' is my favourite sort of gear blog.

If GU makes you feel like Mark Twight then I should buy some. I'd agree regarding 'real food' though - I find on any prolonged day out that it's the pork pies etc. that taste better than the flapjacks and bars.

Regarding the Brynje string stuff, I'm still to try it, but Aclima are the other company that I know of who do similar stuff made of PP. The theory is absolutely sound and its nice when they work in real life: I've got a 'string' vest made by Craft http://www.wiggle.co.uk/craft-cool-mesh-superlight-sleeveless-base-layer/ which is absolutely amazing. I'm completely sold on it. The problem is that when worn on its own it makes you look like a sexual predator.
TRip - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Mr Fuller:
> The problem is that when worn on its own it makes you look like a sexual predator.

Indeed. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OhwYSDFm1nQ/UH00H0AU_XI/AAAAAAAAAT4/pwM6Wf99-t4/s1600/jimmy-saville-two.jp...
mattrm - on 23 May 2013
In reply to TRip:

For gels, it's got to be Torq, they're the only ones worth eating IMO.
Mr Fuller on 23 May 2013
In reply to TRip: I need to chuck out my shell suit before I get arrested.

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