/ Video: First ascent, The Bull, 5.14R, Squamish.
"Spied this line while working the Gunslinger with Ben Harnden last spring, gave it a light brushing and started attempts.
I put a lot of time in to this last year, falling at the crux many times. Almost sent it a couple times, but my climbing season was shut down for the rest of the year when I fell at the wrong spot breaking bones in my hand.
This year I changed my tactics and spent 6 weeks specifically training for the route. On the first lead go this year I fell early in the crux and ripped the gear, taking a unexpected big fall. Had a few moments of second guessing but decided to give it another go just for sh*t's and giggles, and found myself topping out.
The crux is after the top of the 5.12 corner shared with The Gunslinger. Tiny crimps and huge moves with glassy or no feet. I figure about V11 to the next rest and pro, followed by a bit of a heartbreaker finish. It's safe(ish) to fall early in the crux but falling after is a really bad idea."
5.14R I think would qualify for a fairly hefty Brit grade I would have thought.
Not sure how they got such bad footage with that professional rig in place. Might have been a good send but the constant zooming in and out for no reason made my head spin.
I enjoyed that. Thank you.
Looks cool. Feet look terrible!
Yeah 8b+ or more climbing in a runout position stacks up not a million miles away from Rhapsody (runout 8c?) in difficulty? Solid E grade no doubt...
Elsewhere on the site
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
If asked to name a British female climber who stood out at a time when British women's climbing wasn't... Read more