/ Dallas Texas (TD) on Pointe Lachenal (SE Face)

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Brian Pollock - on 17 Jun 2013
I'm looking for some info on this rock route on the SE face of Pointe Lachenal. I recently climbed it up to the last pitch but had to bail due to problems with hauling bags caused by my going off route into some ground that was considerably harder than the grade suggested (6A+) and much harder than the first pitch which was graded 6B (soft).

After the 2nd anchor you reach a ledge and there is a slightly sketchy traverse right across to a bolt on the face. I had possibly gone wrong at this point as I suspect the bolt is a red herring since there is a more obvious groove on the left. However, I definitely went wrong when I continued to traverse right into an steep corner (overhanging at the top) requiring bridging and balancing with thin side-pulls to the top of the corner before heel hooking and rocking over back onto the face and easy ground.

Basically wondering if anyone has ever climbed this and could shed some light on what I actually climbed?
emily roo - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:
Hey you're message was pretty helpful and stopped us going the wrong way! We also found the first pitch pretty easy and wondered if we were actually on the climb to the left in the Piola topo... We took the groove left of the second belay which was fine at first but then got trickier and dirty (but about 6a/+ climbing) I overshot the top of the route by a long way (following a trail of rotting tat haha) so we did quite a bit more abseiling than we should have....

Abbing back down I found some more bolts and another belay straight up from pitch 2, looked pretty blank though and not much like 6a climbing! This is probably where your red herring bolt fits in. Maybe this was the actual route and the guidebook is being a bit sandbaggy. Or else someone has bolted a new line.... Basically we have no idea what we actually climbed, adventure climbing at its finest! ;)
Brian Pollock - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to emily roo:

Sounds like my bolt. I originally thought it was the route but I could only see one bolt and the 'line' went directly over the bulge on the face with no gear and what looked mostly like smears and slopers (though climbable as friction was great). The line to the right was actually (in hindsight) really enjoyable, and the only really challenging climbing I found on the route. There is a sharp crack at the top though that would shred a rope so perhaps not advisable.

Definitely adventure climbing. After I came back onto the face I was out of gear and had to run it out for 10m or so up to some of that dodgy tat you found. Easy climbing but as you say dirty and didn't feel like the intended route. I also almost fell into the dodgy bergschrund at the base of the route.

Great fun though, glad you enjoyed it!

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