/ NEWS: Pete Whittaker Repeats Karlek, 8b, Sweden
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68149
Its maybe worth mentioning that Ratt Latt was onsighted by Erik Grandelius last year.
Seriously. Why is this news?
8a.nu is stuffed with 8+ ascents by Brits in June...
If this route were in England and better known we'd all be patting Pete on the back and telling him that he should really take his skills abroad and do something impressive over there... :-)
> Seriously. Why is this news?
> 8a.nu is stuffed with 8+ ascents by Brits in June...
I don't get this attitude at all, what do you want from reporting? A rolling list of the hardest climbs (you click up there ^^ for that) or actual content?
It's a british climber in an area I hadn't heard much about doing hard climbing in fine style. This is news and I'm glad it's been reported.
So are they french grades for traditional protected routes?
Yes, though it would be evident if you'd read the article...
Just like Butter Arms in Paradiset/Lofoten is 7c+... But has not bolts and is protected with cams/nuts and what ever.
The french grade is there to give information on how hard physically the climbing is.
First repeat of a hard 8b(+?) on trad. FA by low-key crackclimbing demigod Petter Restorp. Until a couple of weeks ago this route was probably the hardest trad route in Scandinavia. And on first class Bohuslšn-granite.
I say well done repeating and reporting.
You are aware this is 8b+ on trad right...
yeah I thought so, I was just a little confused because they gave the other route E8 in the same sentence.
Minaret was graded as E8, simply because it was Leo Houlding that did the FA.
You will find a couple of hard E-graded routes in this area, by Houlding and Wulf (Swedish). Otherwise the routes are only graded with swedish grades, similar to the french system.
> You will find a couple of hard E-graded routes in this area, by Houlding and Wulf (Swedish). Otherwise the routes are only graded with swedish grades, similar to the french system.
Ah yeah... messed up the routes. Ekehed of Hard Grit fame did Minaret. Leo did a route nearby.
It's funny, I always find it strange that Brits grade things in E-Grades abroad so much for hard routes that are worked on for some time. For me, it's a massive release to be free of the "E-system" and just slap a US or French grade on a route. It's not that I don't like E grades, it's just nice to not have to think about the ego driven danger-difficulty aspect. You spend the whole time second guessing yourself.
When I was asked to give E grades for both Century Crack and Greenspit, I really didn't want to do. Funnily enough, I think after a couple of years I see more references to the E-grades of those routes that aren't even the ones that I reluctantly gave!
As for E-grades given to FAs done onsight. Give me that any day :-)
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