/ More new belays

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bogster - on 24 Jun 2013
I the little people have been at it again replacing old bolts and belays on Yorkshire Limestone, and there's more to follow . ever wondered who does the work? Please donate to the Yorkshire Bolt Fund. follow the link on The Leeds Wall site. many thanks
Simon Caldwell - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to bogster:
Is it all replacement, or is the retro-bolting continuing?
Tim Chappell - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to Toreador:

Hang on, let me get some popcorn.
a lakeland climber on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Hoi! There's a queue don't you know?

ALC
Enty - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to bogster:

Yorkshire Limestone Rockfax - Due 2013

Ask for a donation ;-)

E
Steve Crowe - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to Toreador:

You are pointing your finger at wrong team!

Bogster represents the good guys. There are a lot of new lower offs needed in Yorkshire.

Perhaps it is also worth requesting/reminding folks that they shouldn't top rope directly on lower offs. Best practice is to use your own QD's whilst working routes on a top rope.
chalkyjim - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to bogster:
Also don't kick an angry badger with bare feet
Micky J - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to bogster: Lets give this the respect it deserves . This work is thankless damned hard and eats into the little climbing time the people undertaking it get . ANYONE out there who clips bolts on Yorkshire Limestone needs to donate now !! Apologies to Bob Geldof . Seriously these bolts / belays arent god given and this amazing area and its world class routes need to remain so . DONATE . I will be checking the number of people at Kilnsey this week and may deflate tyres if funds dont improve .
andyathome - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to death drop:
> (In reply to bogster) Lets give this the respect it deserves . This work is thankless damned hard and eats into the little climbing time the people undertaking it get . ANYONE out there who clips bolts on Yorkshire Limestone needs to donate now !! Apologies to Bob Geldof . Seriously these bolts / belays arent god given and this amazing area and its world class routes need to remain so . DONATE . I will be checking the number of people at Kilnsey this week and may deflate tyres if funds dont improve .

I have never contributed to a bolt fund. I would suggest you keep well away from my tyres. Well away.
a lakeland climber on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to andyathome:

I can just imagine DD going round the base of the crag asking people if they have contributed to the bolt fund and also which is their car.

ALC
Micky J - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to andyathome: May be an idea to arrive on your unicycle next time you visit then .
aln - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to andyathome:
> (In reply to death drop)
> [...]
>
> I have never contributed to a bolt fund.

Do you climb bolted routes?
Enty - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to andyathome:
> (In reply to death drop)
> [...]
>
> I have never contributed to a bolt fund. I would suggest you keep well away from my tyres. Well away.

You've no need to worry - there's no 6b's at kilnsey.

E
redsulike - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to bogster: Don't know. Dont care. YBF GFY you're welcome.
Micky J - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to redsulike: doesnt concern you get back up your gully .
papashango - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to bogster:

was surprised to find a spanking new lower off at the top of the diedre at kilnsey today, deece!
bogster - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to bogster: I only posted this to highlight the work people are doing reequipping existing routes with stainless bolts and lower offs and the lack of funds, if it doesn't apply to you f*ck off and don't get so wound up!
bogster - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to bogster: Ps get your hand in your pocket Rockfax you have make plenty of cash out of Yorkshire, give a bit back!!!!!! Please
Toerag - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to Steve Crowe:
> Perhaps it is also worth requesting/reminding folks that they shouldn't top rope directly on lower offs. Best practice is to use your own QD's whilst working routes on a top rope.

Surely loweroffs should have SS rings on them? It's crazy to place a glue-in without them on a busy crag.
In reply to papashango:
> (In reply to bogster)
>
> was surprised to find a spanking new lower off at the top of the diedre at kilnsey today, deece!

Really? How does that fit into any bolting policy then?


Chris
Simon Caldwell - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to Steve Crowe:
I wasn't pointing any fingers, just asking the question!
Apart from the fact that I'm not good enough to climb any of the good bolted routes in Yorkshire, I'd always be wary of contributing to any Yorkshire bolt fund due to the extensive retro-bolting of trad crags. So to that extent, the bad guys are doing the good guys a disservice.
Dan Lane - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to bogster:
> (In reply to bogster) Ps get your hand in your pocket Rockfax you have make plenty of cash out of Yorkshire, give a bit back!!!!!! Please

Hahaha, good luck with that one...

Bulls Crack - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to Toreador:
> (In reply to Steve Crowe)

Speaking of which: anyone 'done' the left hand side of Crummackdale yet?
pork pie girl - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to bogster: oh wonderful...

dear santa can i please request a more sensibly placed lower off on mescalito (malham) .. it needs to be about 6 feet further right!!

oh and can we have an extra bolt between the last bulge and the ledge on the same route (also shared with new dawn) to save me having to clip stick a sling into into the next bolt as it's a the mega long run out ..i'm too frightened to lead it with out a sling!!

can i also have better endurance in my biceps and shoulders.

promise to eat all my veg and to not swear on routes.

ta
EeeByGum - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

> can i also have better endurance in my biceps and shoulders.

Sounds to me like you should be asking for a cordless drill. Then you could make your initial dreams come true! :-)
Steve Crowe - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to Toerag:

> Surely loweroffs should have SS rings on them? It's crazy to place a glue-in without them on a busy crag.

That is just the sort of situation that the Yorkshire Bolt Fund is trying to sort out. As well as mild steel bolt lower offs and the old classic, peg and bush lower off's!

Please contribute if you climb on Yorkshire Sport Routes.
Steve Crowe - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Bolted lower off's have been accepted at the top of many trad routes in Yorkshire for well over 15 years and the nice shiny ones at the top of The Diedre have been there for a very long time... long before the last Rockfax! It even states on this site to abseil off at the top.

See http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=12482
salancaster - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to bogster: Brilliant effort Matt and many thanks for all those hours/days hard graft when you could be climbing. You'll be sadly missed if the rumors are true - youre taking over from Blair in the middle east? Stu
bogster - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to salancaster: Middle East piece of piss,would be easy Stu. Not sure about Yorkshire I was only trying to drum a bit of cash up, look what happens.
Frank the Husky - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to papashango)
> [...]
>
> Really? How does that fit into any bolting policy then?
>
>
> Chris

It fits into a pragmatic policy of equipping safe belays and lower offs...otherwise you get to the situation on Peak Limestone where you arrive at the top of e.g. Chee Tor and find a dog's dinner of threads, pegs, stuck wires and tat.

Peak Limestone will contunie to become ever more derelict whilst Yorkshire limestone is maintained and safeguarded. I know which I prefer.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Dave Musgrove - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Frank the Husky:

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Frank. Apart from one or two of the more popular cliffs most of the Yorkshire Limestone region would have regressed into a long neglected and very unfashionable backwater without the Yorkshire Bolt Fund and the efforts and generosity of its supporters. A relatively small team have put in a huge amount of time and effort over the last 18 years or so. Not just replacing bolts and belays but digging, cleaning and completely resurrecting routes and in some cases whole sectors of cliffs from the encroaching vegetation.

Unfortunately, you can never please everyone but a big thank you to all who have donated and hopefully enjoyed the benefits of the work.

Dave


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