/ new tick list - suggestions needed

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Rog Wilko on 26 Jun 2013
I'm thinking a new tick list might be fun along the lines of Lakes Neglected Gems (sub-E grades). Looking at good quality routes with no more than a dozen entries in UKC logbooks as of now (hoping that will change). I'm aiming for about 25 routes and have about 15 so far. There must be plenty of others which I haven't done so what are your suggestions?
Dave Ferguson - on 26 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Miners Girdle in Newlands Valley is a good day out Rog, finishes up Jezebel a fine VS in its own right.
Rick Sewards - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Also in Newland, something on Grey Buttress is a must - have done Brandywine, Direct Route and Grey Slab and any would do, especially the first two.

You've probably got one of them already, but I bet you haven't done Pier of the Realm, Pier's Ghyll Crag... Lovely route, lovely rock - a bit of a geological oddity as it appears to be an outcrop of granite in the middle of the lakes. Lovely spot, catches the evening sun, and only a 5 minute approach...

...from the Corridor route, while returning to Borrowdale from Scafell! Who cares about closing time anyway?

Other contenders - Hrothgar on Scrubby (no idea whether it's still in reasonable nick - it was a very long time ago), RIP on Castle Crag (only thing I've done there, and to be honest I could see why the place ain't popular, but it was "exciting" as the guidebook points out...) and the truly obscure (not even in the logbooks) Jim's Route on Blake Rigg - I seem to remember there was nice rock under the lichen. I was going to add The Shackle at Buckbarrow (Longsleddale), but I've just checked the new guide and it's been bumped up from HVS to E2 (which makes it respectively my second). I do remember it being somewhat bold, but it was good.

Rick
Calder - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Grey Buttress on Great Blake Rigg. An excellent route.
Calder - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Dave Ferguson:
> (In reply to Rog Wilko)
> Miners Girdle in Newlands Valley is a good day out Rog, finishes up Jezebel a fine VS in its own right.

Forgot to mention - I'd have said Miner's Girdle too, if it hadn't been mentioned already. Although we only got halfway when we did it (not recommended in a team of three - especially if all three would regard themselves slow...!)

Another thought, although possibly just a smidge too popular for this list, is Sunshine Arete on Little How.
Skyfall - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

What are your starting 15 ? Might help people decide what sort of thing you are after.

Not sure I'll have done anything esoteric enough for you but I'm interested.
Calder - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

I'm still pondering this, but this is stuff that's on my radar but haven't done yet:

-Butterfly Crack on Raven Crag (High Stile) has had good reviews from its few ascendants.
-Westmorland Route on Dove Crag.
shantaram - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko: Unfortunately most of my suggestions are HVS/E1, but here goes:

Velox, HVS Round How - How many people have spotted this crag just above the Corridor Route, said that looks great and walked on.

Walk Under Ladders E1, Sandbed Ghyll crag, St Johns in the Vale - the steepest walk in ever, and a stand out route

Mark of Zorro E1, Zorro buttress, Buttermere. Why go to loose Buckstone Howe when you have this classic route and crag and also Yew crag next door?

Flake Out E1 Moss Crag, Buttermere.

Sword of Damocles E1 Bowfell. Was shocked to see this only had 11 logbook entries on UKC, as it is an uber classic. Ok it's high and north facing, but when you're queueing for routes on Neckband, take a 30 minute stroll further up the hill....

Brandywine HVS, Grey Crag, Newlands. Go on get yourself out of Borrowdale and check out the valley next door.

Heaven knows I'm Miserable Now E1, Upper Heron, Langstrath. Quality rock, great situation and loads of other good routes on the crag. The rock stays surprisingly clean considering nobody goes up there!

The Boj Eliminate HVS Bleak Howe, Langstrath. It follows parts of 2 other classic routes, but makes a lovely climb in its own right.

Rick Graham on 27 Jun 2013

> Sword of Damocles E1 Bowfell. Was shocked to see this only had 11 logbook entries on UKC, as it is an uber classic. Ok it's high and north facing,


and as a friend said after doing it again last year

"totally trashed and full of hammered nuts from winter ascents "
shantaram - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rick Graham: That is tragic. I only did it about 5 to 6 years ago and there was no obvious evidence of damage from winter ascents. Sword of Damocles is a relatively clean rock climb with no drainage lines or vegetation (other than surface lichen) on it. It did not strike me as an obvious winter line. It must be the strange attraction of torquing an axe into the perfect crack running the length of the upper pitch. I now am starting to understand the concerns of the 'LD Peoples Climbing Front'.
Rog Wilko on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Dave Ferguson:
> (In reply to Rog Wilko)
> Miners Girdle in Newlands Valley is a good day out Rog, finishes up Jezebel a fine VS in its own right.

Never had much fun in Newlands, myself, but will take your word for it.
Rog Wilko on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rick Sewards: some good suggestions there.
Rog Wilko on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Calder:
> (In reply to Dave Ferguson)
> [...]
>
> Miner's Girdle again, eh? Must be something in it. I'll be keen to add routes that more than one person suggests.

Rog Wilko on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Calder:
> (In reply to Rog Wilko)
>
> I'm still pondering this, but this is stuff that's on my radar but haven't done yet:
>
> -Butterfly Crack on Raven Crag (High Stile) has had good reviews from its few ascendants.
I'd thought of that, but never been up there (lack of a porter)
> -Westmorland Route on Dove Crag.
Have also wondered about doing this one.

SCrossley on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Hi Rog,
Buckstone How Girdle, brilliant day out.
A great ticklist would be of the routes most fallen off, Wind and Left Wall would maybe be there.
:-)
Rog Wilko on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to shantaram: Most of these a bit outside the projected range, but interested that Newlands comes up again. Obviously a connesseur's (I thought I could spell!) crag/area. I once went up to do Brandywine but chickened out for some reason (not sure why, now)
Rog Wilko on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rick Graham: Oh no, don't let's get into that argument again just now (even though I'm with you).
Rog Wilko on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Skyfall: Here's my starting suggestions - all routes that I enjoyed and thought others would too:
Central climb (Bowfell Buttress)
Harristickorner/Spillikin Ridge
Slim Buttress Arete
Carpetbagger
Godiva Groove
Grooves Traverse
Nocturne
Panatella
Evening Wall (Lining Crag)
Adam's Slab (Doves Nest)
Dexterity
Necklace Route
Trident (Dow)
Hawk Route
West Buttress Girdle (Wallabarrow)
Cheekwool(l)y (Pillar)
Chantry Buttress (Napes)
Fie (Green Gable)
Rog Wilko on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to sjc: Thought you would be working! It's a weekday.
SCrossley on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
I`m on strike.
Calder - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Some of them sound right good (think I've done Spillikin Ridge but it's not in my logbook?). And I didn't even know there was summer climbing on Green Gable! I suspect this list will take 2nd priority for me, just behind the 'Lancashire's Finest' one...

I will say that if I were choosing I'd try to go for max. 1 route per crag - get folk to really earn their ticks.

And I'm also going to reiterate that The Grey Buttress on Great Blake Rig is fully worthy of a place on the list.
Greenbanks - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:


Dale Head Pillar
The Peeler
Culloden
Mithril
Rog Wilko on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Calder:
> (In reply to Rog Wilko)
>

>
> And I'm also going to reiterate that The Grey Buttress on Great Blake Rig is fully worthy of a place on the list.

Sorry, forgot to acknowledge that - good call, I know someone who's done it. Must get up there myself.
shantaram - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Greenbanks:Mmmmm. When was the last time you did these climbs? The Peeler is pretty unpleasant looking and highly vegetated nowadays. Dale Head Pillar and Mithril are also in similar condition. They are far from appealing.
Rog Wilko on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to shantaram:
> (In reply to Greenbanks)Mmmmm. When was the last time you did these climbs? The Peeler is pretty unpleasant looking and highly vegetated nowadays. Dale Head Pillar and Mithril are also in similar condition. They are far from appealing.

Just what I was thinking but hadn't the confidence to write!
Greenbanks - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to shantaram:

You're correct of course...given the onset of vegetation and general lack of use. But in the spirit of the thread I thought they'd be worth mentioning as having potential for re-discovery. A bit of adventure dosen't go amiss...

Oh, 19 years since I was up on Dale Head, 11 since I was goating around in Borrowdale.
johncoxmysteriously - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to shantaram:

I did the Peeler in 1983 and it was pretty unappealing and vegetated then, as it was no doubt before the FA, judging by the name. If you want hidden Lakeland gems, it's no use worrying about a bit of moss and unappealingness, really.

jcm
LakesWinter on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to shantaram:
> (In reply to Greenbanks)Mmmmm. When was the last time you did these climbs? The Peeler is pretty unpleasant looking and highly vegetated nowadays. Dale Head Pillar and Mithril are also in similar condition. They are far from appealing.

Yeah I agree re. the Peeler, it would make a good winter route at the moment as it has almost entirely disappeared under the grass, despite being in the Lakes selected guide. I went to try it last September and could barely identify it.

Dale Head Pillar is also quite vegetated at the moment though not as bad - had a look at doing an unstarred route there in winter the other year, but in case anyone else is thinking of it then dont bother, too much heather and not enough decent turf/cracks, it's not worth it.
Simon Caldwell - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
I've done Butterfly Crack, and it's an excellent line, but as you'd expect, filthy with some dodgy rock.
So probably ideal for your list :-)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=169894
Calder - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Toreador:

Looks far from filthy. Filthy is a 2ft cushion of moss. Or a coating of slime. I have examples where I've encountered each, if you want to know where let me know...
Dave Ferguson - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Some other suggestions which I have enjoyed are:

Rectangular Rib on Pavey, bit bold but doesn't see much traffic and it is clean.
Breakwater Slabs, Grooved Arete on Boat Howe which takes the clean slab to the left of the filthy main buttress. Groyne Strain the E1 is written up as the route of the crag, but this was just as good.
Another vote for Velox on Round How but if this feels a bit stiff then Cresta and Wyvern Groove are both good at VS
Gordon Stainforth - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Greenbanks:

I remember being very, very underwhelmed by The Peeler in 1971.
Rog Wilko on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Dave Ferguson:
> (In reply to Rog Wilko)
> Some other suggestions which I have enjoyed are:
>
> Rectangular Rib on Pavey, bit bold but doesn't see much traffic and it is clean.
> Breakwater Slabs, Grooved Arete on Boat Howe which takes the clean slab to the left of the filthy main buttress. Groyne Strain the E1 is written up as the route of the crag, but this was just as good.
> Another vote for Velox on Round How but if this feels a bit stiff then Cresta and Wyvern Groove are both good at VS

I believe I backed of Rectangular Rib some years back because the start of the second (?) pitch was too bold for me - remember a steep wall with a very committing, irreversible move above a ledge and no gear. We diverted on to Cooks Tour.
Rog Wilko on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
> (In reply to Dave Ferguson)
> [...]
>
>

Never climbed on BoatHowe or Round Howe.
petegunn on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko: Better stick one of these routes on if its another wet summer http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=188126
Simon Caldwell - on 27 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
How about this one
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6651

too many ticks, but most of them are people ticking the summer route by mistake instead of the winter route
stewart murray - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko: Pernod - Scafell East Buttress
Rog Wilko on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko: OK, the ticklist is launched. There are thirty routes (or will be when I manage to add The Central Climb on Bowfell Buttress}. Find it here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=637
Simon Caldwell - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko: oh dear, only done 1!
Rog Wilko on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to Toreador: Well, looks like a good stimulus for you! As waiters all say these days "Enjoy!"
Rog Wilko on 30 Jun 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko: last route now added

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