/ Recommend me...Steep and juggy trad.
Reiff is on my periphery for the near future!
Britarmartis at HVS, being over the sea adds to the fun.
> Reiff is on my periphery for the near future!
Reiff is great, but even better is Sheigra. The spectacular Second Geo is so juggy and so fun it defies belief. And there's Monkey Man, an E3 that fits your criteria perfectly.
Plenty too at Gogarth and Rhoscolyn - Mask of the Red Death is steep juggy fun (a bit bold maybe, but nothing too bad), plus a bunch that are on my list too: Centrefold, 20,000 Leagues, Supercrack.
Also, Lower Sharpnose, a little less steep, but where straightforward pulling on holds, with regular gear, in the low-mid E grades is the order of the day. Fantastic stuff.
At Lower Sharpnose.
Out of The Blue
Break On Through
New Horizons II
Yellow Edge (and the top pitch variants, Captain Swing, The Haystack)
If you want to travel - Arapiles (Australia)has what you want, at all grades.
Another vote for Reiff!
I dont know how many of your avon list really count as steep and juggy. Arms race definitely is but yellow edge is thin face climbing for the most part (slighty bold too)!
Fair point, maybe just the Captain Swing variation, then.
A lot of things at sheigra and swanage fall in to the category.
Well, there's the rest of pembroke for a start! Gogarth too. Most 'steep' mountain E2's etc will tend to have jugs somewhere
Mars at Swanage might fit the bill - actually quite a lot of Swanage would fit the bill.
Ha, I see you've fizzled out! Generally the words steep/juggy/trad and Pembroke are interchangeable, especially in the E2 > E3 range.
A bit below your target grade, but reasonably close to home for you - if you haven't done The Big Top and Trapeze on Aonach Dubh's West Face (both E1) I would highly recommend them - both (from distant memory) overhanging (in parts at least), juggy and very spectacular. Admittedly The Big Top doesn't really meet the "safe" criterion - the top pitch is fairly run out, and I think needs a bit of care extending runners etc (though I was climbing well below your level when I did it). Actually talking about them reminds me I must get on the "best route in Scotland" thread...
Down in the Lakes, Phoenix (Scafell East Buttress) fits the bill pretty well. Again it's only given E1, though I've just noticed it's in the logbooks here as E2, which I certainly wouldn't argue with (though I don't think it's given that in any guides) - expect a battle whatever. There's probably a lot more on that crag that would do (it leans in a big way!) but I've not done them. And for something completely different (and not really trad, but you do get an E3 tick!), Darklands at Cathedral Quarry. Mostly bolted with a bit of gear, but certainly steep and juggy and great fun.
BTW, whoever recommended Agony at Castle Rock REALLY overlooked the "safe" bit - good route, but I remember 1 runner in about 70 feet on the 2nd pitch - I think it's now given E2 5a!
For steep and juggy The Sloth (Roaches) and Quietus (Stanage) spring to mind.
At a lower grade one of the most steep and juggy (short) routes I've come accross is Power Faliure on Curbar.
The sea cliffs of Pabbay and Mingulay in the Hebrides are perfect if you are wanting steep and juggy.
The Rasp E2 5b at Higgar Tor fits the bill. Lessen that relentless overhanging angle and it would probably be VS. Big holds, gear, but oh so pumpy!! There is a nice video somewhere of Johnny Dawes doing it in five ten tennies.
> A bit below your target grade, but reasonably close to home for you - if you haven't done The Big Top and Trapeze on Aonach Dubh's West Face (both E1) I would highly recommend them - both (from distant memory) overhanging (in parts at least), juggy and very spectacular. Admittedly The Big Top doesn't really meet the "safe" criterion - the top pitch is fairly run out, and I think needs a bit of care extending runners etc (though I was climbing well below your level when I did it). Actually talking about them reminds me I must get on the "best route in Scotland" thread...
Yes both are brilliant and The Big Top is one of Scotland's best IMO. Some bold moves above the belay starting the last pitch on Trapeze, no problem for an E2 leader of course.
> For steep and juggy The Sloth (Roaches) and Quietus (Stanage) spring to mind.
Any of the classics at Swanage - the home of steep, juggy trad!
Quietus isn't really juggy, the crux is an evil crack but may be I just did it wrong (well, I failed in fact).
Can't find a route called Power Failure at Curbar. What/where is it?
A really shite route on the steep wall at right-angles to Campion Wall.
> Any of the classics at Swanage - the home of steep, juggy trad!
> Quietus isn't really juggy, the crux is an evil crack but may be I just did it wrong (well, I failed in fact).
The roof on Quietus is juggy E1 5a, the finish is 6a.
The finish is and has been for a long time 5c.
You might get lucky, there's an 'easy' way and about 15 much harder ones.
> The finish is and has been for a long time 5c.
Yeah, the same way The Sole is 5b!
If no one has said it; Rhoscolyn. Lots of steep and juggy stuff.
(certainly looks 5c or less)
rather than this
(which I found to be 6a/b/I couldn't do it)?
There's nothing like the internet for providing too much information.
I nearly used that as my example, but it was given the correct grade of E1 5c in one guide, so it didn't quite count.
I've done Kelly's Overhang at 5b. Not telling though.
I've got an easier way than either of those.
Another vote for Anoch Dubh East Face. Steep + well protected quality lines.
Cambusbarron (Thornton's Quarry) is worth a look. It needs about a week of dry weather, but the climbing is steep and immaculate.
Both these crags can be done in an evening from Glasgow; just remember to take the midge spray...
> I've done Kelly's Overhang at 5b. Not telling though.
Is that because it involved chipping?
Or do you mean bridging up using crappy slopey sidey-under things for hands, rather than doing the rock onto the right foot (impossible) move? If so, I still think 5c.
> I've got an easier way than either of those.
Does it involve being short and strong?
I have seen KO being done by several methods over the years.
The attributes for three ways appear to be
Short and strong.
Tall and bold.
Agile and thin.
Two other ways required all or nothing lunges.
Have fun. I seconded by methods 1 + 2 a few years ago, downclimbing 1 then back up 2 and wondered what all the fuss was about.
It became clear when I tried again a few weeks ago.
Ungradeable, either you can or cannot.
> Does it involve being short and strong?
From the position Oli is in at around 0.36 in the second vid, right heel out right (somewhere..) and right hand cross over to the rounded boss on the left like this:
Then (probably) match and then you pull into a sort of lay back position and with your right foot on the far wall out right. No baggy jams on bent arms or anything unsightly, makes it feel as sequency and unthrutchy as FBD.
As far as Kelly's goes, it must be much easier for short arses, because I really don't see it like others do. I can wedge my leg in and get a proper no hander at the half way point, then do the balancy finish fully rested. I mean it's not like I'm good at balancy, I can barely do King Kong on a toppy.
I definitely did not do that hard rock-over on the right foot. It did not feel like 5c, maybe it would now, I was climbing well (for me) when I did it.
Possibly Rick Grahams 'tall and bold' method.
Hmmm, steep, well protected but not crack climbs? I wonder how many on there actually fit the criteria. Not Sloth, London Wall or Right Wall for a start!
My memory of King King as a seconding punter is a biggish reach from a highly precarious mantel... sort of a throw from the closest in on a dynamicly unstable one-armed position before you gently tilt back off. I nearly flashed it but eventually probably had some help on the rope. My leader was a brute: was onsighting the odd E7 at the time and he made it look piss but he did get rescued off Impossible Slab later that (hot) day... makes you realise even the strong are fallible.
Back on KO I've seen several methods people claim are 5b but I'm thinking NCC 5b maybe .... and even so the route is certain E1 from the majority of HVS and good few extreme leaders that it stops.
> From the position Oli is in at around 0.36 in the second vid, right heel out right (somewhere..) and right hand cross over to the rounded boss on the left like this:
Interesting ta for posting. Will be useful if I ever get on that bloody route again...
> My memory of King King as a seconding punter is a biggish reach from a highly precarious mantel... sort of a throw from the closest in on a dynamicly unstable one-armed position before you gently tilt back off.
Yeah. It wasn't even that far a reach, it was more of a timing thing. Grit weirdness, kicks my ass every time, but I still miss it.
This is a remarkable pitch of steep, juggy trad in a fantastic position high on a big mountain crag. An absolute must for anyone who enjoys swinging around on buckets in positions of great exposure. Absolutely mint. Catacomb also involves a fair amount of glorious jug-hauling (and is harder than Samba IMO - a sandbag I thought though I may have been knackered).
While we're on about the Lakes, Reecastle has steep, juggy trad (with some smaller holds too of course on the harder routes) in an outcrop setting. Rack Direct is a right laugh (but a bit bold at the start).
Think you must have been tired; I thought Catacomb was the easiest of the three classic E1s up there - steady away. Samba is bottom of the grade but ace - did you do Isengard to get to it? Brilliant combination of routes.
> Think you must have been tired; I thought Catacomb was the easiest of the three classic E1s up there - steady away. Samba is bottom of the grade but ace - did you do Isengard to get to it? Brilliant combination of routes.
Yes, did Isengard, a good pitch. Keen to get back for Pink Panther and Nimrod - which is the other classic E1?
Tarkus - perhaps not as good as the other two but still worthwhile. Pushy start then easier climbing above. I thought Pink Panther was nails but my feet were in agony after doing Eliminate A and Isengard/Samba Pa Ti and walking down in rock shoes twice!
Sounds like a tiring day. Nice choice of route order too ;)
Did you actually do that Langdale E2 challenge btw, or was it just a plan? Given how tired I felt after the walk and a couple of routes up at Flat Crags the other week, it seems all the more astonishing an idea.
We tried! We made it about halfway round before we ground to a halt for various reasons but we were trying it at the back end of August, so limited daylight for the amount of climbing/walking required. I still think it would be feasible - in fact the recent run of good weather would have been perfect for it but I wasted the opportunity on Scafell and Gable instead...could have been worse!
The top pitch of Shrike on Cloggy is a vertical jugfest apart from one or two harder moves low down.
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