/ UKC Fit Club Week 330
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (329) thread:
Biscuit - I have started the thread. If you've done stats already, post them up. Otherwise I'll come on at tea time and do the stats for everyone. Just wanted to get a post up as there wasn't one up. Didn't want anyone to think I've forgotten them.
Quick honourable mention:
IainRUK - WELL DONE MATE!!!!!!! Amazing result. Dead chuffed for you.
STG (July 2013):
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Lead E2 try onsight
MTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Grand wall at squamish
Goals for this week
Climb again - tick
T: buckstones. Poor session too hot and midgey
S: Blackstone's nice walk in repeated problems up to 6B dropped a new 6B on the top out. Couple of new ticks on easy problems. Far too hot. Knee hurt again
S: west nab cooler nice session nothing hard a few new ticks. Ankle hurting at today knee okay ish
Next week's goals:
Knee is a bit of a worry
m: 4 mile trail run from tyndrum.. legs still sore..
t: 6 mile trail run luing.. some life again..
w: 4.5 mile trail run 7:30 pace.. slowly legs returning.
t: 9 mile hill walk up a munor.. 3 mile trail run immediately afterwards
f: 9 mile trail run 7:20 pace.. feeling OK again
s: 4.5 mile trail run early am. drive to lakes. 5 mile walk over 3 langdale pikes, pm: 4 mile trail run
s: am: 4 mile trail run. pm: 5 mile trail run hamburg hopefully
Back to 70-80 miles this week then Karwendal Birglauf next weekend, 6.8 miles, 1400m ascent up hill race in Bavarian alps..
Opted not to do world champs long distance mountain running I think.. included as a welsh reserve after them deciding that as I'm now 4th in the world.. I'm arguably higher than 6th in Wales...
But Berlin Marathon, 11 weeks away, now dominates.. that's now my sole focus.
And here are the stats:
AJM - Sounds like some good sessions. Sorry to hear about the trip falling through
Si dH - Well done on the E2s and E3s
Eagle River - Glad the redpointing at Kilnsey went well for you
MrChewey - Looks like a good training week
Mattrm - Try harder fatty!!!
mbh - 55 mile week! Impressive. If you're going for a speed week, maybe worth taking it easy the week before? Dunno tho, 55 miles in a week seems mega to me.
Curious Yellow - Looks like a good week. Shorncliff is a great crag.
Grubes - Liked the video. That's an excellent bouldering session there.
stevemarkperry - Must be nice riding in this weather.
Needkraken - Sounds like a nice holiday there. I always try just to enjoy family holidays and don't stress out if I don't get the training in.
exile - Congrats on the 7a. Sounds like a good hard climbing week. Well done.
NMN - Good running week there. Skiddaw must be a nice race. I walked it earlier on in the year with the wife, lovely hill.
Nick Russell - What is King Kong like? Roaches must have been interesting in this heat.
Luke Owens - Go for the 7a on-sight matey, you can do it! LPT session sounded ace.
IainRUK - Well done on the race. Do you have an targets for Berlin?
maria85 - Grats on the E1 and the marathon.
Mr Chestwig - Never found that glucosamine works personally. Hope the finger gets better soon.
Nomics4sale - Congrats on the E1s. Good job on the redpointing progress.
pork pie girl - As soon as the conditions improve, I'm sure you'll get Mescalito in. I have faith!!! It'll come when you're not expecting it. I'm super impressed with the effort you're putting in.
JimmyKay - Well done on the Dinbren sessions. Sounds like a good weekend.
Sankey - sounds like a good couple of weeks there. Enjoy the hol.
leon - Contgrats on the E points. Some excellent routes there.
useful - Good first step there on the ML. Indoor grades can be a real pain, I don't worry about them. It's all just training.
Well done everyone. Keep up with the hard work. Don't be lazy.
For the climbers - PULL HARDER!!!
For the cyclists - ALLEZ, ALLEZ, ALLEZ!!!
For the runners - DIG DEEP AND KEEP PUSHING!!!
Hope that's suitably motivational. ;)
Thanks for doing fit club this week mattrm.
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - not yet, may wait until the Autumn
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
Week reported below I aimed to keep climbing hard, (for me,) which was just about ticked.
M: Evening: 45min road run.
T: Evening: Left it until late as it was so hot. Worked the double traverse on the gate end of Badger Rock. Got all the moves but didn't have it in me to complete.
W: Evening: 55min fell run. Fitness wise fine, but twisted my ankle.
T: Rest - ankle rehab.
F: 45min continual traversing on 6b+ traverse. Ankle felt ok thankfully. Normally a recovery session now but this evening was more of an endurance session as I ended up having to 'over' grip due to heat.
S: Morning: Back to Badger Rock early to avoid the worst of the heat - still bouldering without a t-shirt by 7am! Found a different foot sequence for the crux and then completed the double traverse on the gate end of the rock with the sit down start. Hard to grade as I've been on the traverse a lot over the years, but somewhere in the (route) 7a+ range.
Chuffed to RP the problem on Badger Rock, but feeling bone tired this week - went to bed at 7.30pm last night and still feeling shot. Going for an easier week with the simple aim of doing something classic that I haven't done before, (as my climbing partners will be around,) in the E1/2 bracket in the Lakes - possibly Totalitarian.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st)
Weight - 11st 10lbs (2lbs loss)
M - Rest
T - 10k
W - 1.5h yoga + fingerboard session
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Afternoon's sport at Witches Point + morning and evening in the Garden
S - 30 mins core / yoga + tip visit and digging out stumps
3 core/yoga - 2 sessions
1 good climb (ideally a days trad) - yes
1 run (10k) - Yes
proper diet - did ok
Fingerboard session - yes
Apart from the core, a good week. Had supposed to have been climbing at a mates indoor wall, but it wasn't finished on Thursday when I went over. Was also supposed to be going climbing on Tuesday, but that fell through as well. The sport session at Witches was good. One 6a (one fall), one 6a+ (one fall) and made a good effort on a 6b. Then spent the rest of the day in the garden, doing some major removal work. So totally knackered today. Apart from the core, got all the goals done. Lets go for 100% next week!
Cheers! Think I'm free Friday if you fancy getting out this week (and tomorrow but that's sightly short notice!), keen for something shady perhaps if this heat persists.
Thanks! The miles are mounting, and it does seem at the moment that I can do miles or speed, but not both. I don't know if I am doing the right thing, but I think I will try to keep up the miles, try for speed most runs in an x in y kind of way and hope that it comes when I have got used to the volume, if I keep trying, rather than back off the miles and hope for speed now. If we mix ascent into the equation, I get confused and will likely take the Biscuit approach.
As for Mega, with a lifetime E-score of null points, all the collective Fit Club E and 8z+++ whatever scores seem mighty mega to me!
Now, this week: I allowed work to get the better of me for the first two days, so that left a lot to do to get to 50 miles in the rest of the week. This is what I did:
W-10.1 miles, coast path
T-10.1 miles, coast path and woods
F-10 miles, flat trail
S-10 miles, trail and road, flattish, mostly.
S-16.3 miles, trail and road.
56 miles, with 1200 m of ascent. Some stunning scenery.
Roseland 32 miles coast path thing in 5 weeks
Goals: 50 for 5, the ashes.
Mon: Kilnsey in the evening. Someone on 50 for 5 so I got on Ground effect and after putting the clips up had a quick play on the bottom section then got it first lead attempt. Had a go on 50 for 5 at the end of the session.
Wed: CYLongridge. traversed about a bit, was a bit greasy but good workout.
Sat: Kilnsey. Hot hot hot. progress on 50 for 5, stinker of a crux at the top but feels like i'm getting there with relative ease. Hopefully shouldn't take too long.
Thanks for doing the stats Matt. King Kong is hard work at the start of pitch 1, just sustained (slippery limestone) jamming. It detoriorates at the top of the pitch, but then the position on the belay ledge is spectacular. Pitch 2 starts out great (best part of the climb, I think) but again deteriorates into clawing up mud/vegetation at the top. Some very good climbing, excellent situations, but also a fair bit of choss!
This week's been quiet for me climbing-wise, I think I took a bit too much 'taper' for next week's trip.
M, T - Rest
W - 4 mile run, a really good climbing session at Ban-y-gor in the evening. I got back on Pet Cemetery and got it first try. That's my 4th 7a, two of which have been second attempt. I think I should (and plan to) start redpointing harder, and I think a 7a onsight is not at all implausible. I also got my second 6c onsight (though it was a bit soft)
T - Rest
F - 5 mile run
S - Rest
S - 6 mile run. Really slow, but at least I completed this week without my shins complaining.
So I'm off to Frankenjura tomorrow for just over a week! Next week's post will be a bit late, probably Wednesday.
Forgot, I also did 2 k swimming on Saturday, after the run.
- Keep up strength, flexibility and core training
- Keep getting out as much as possible and push hard
- Try more E4s
- Get back on Ames Low, and try a real (ie not power stamina) V6/7 too
- Tick some sport pyramid routes
<MTG> - 2013
- Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 7/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
- Right Hand Man
- 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route)
- Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s <So far: 8xE3 onsight, 2xE3 flash, 3xE4 onsight>
- Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips (see priority below for reasoning) - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
- Get in best shape possible for 2014 road trip - mainly this means going out as strong as possible since strength will inevitably fade over the trip
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
- E4 onsight - ticked 3
- 8a before 30
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoints
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: Helping a friend move house.
T: wall session, biscuit factory. Dd the 6a, 6b and 6c (second go) circuits. Fell off the 7a one multiple times. Tried some bouldering. Felt weak and uninspired. I've not yet been to the biscuit actors and had a good session.
W: Met up with Ally at Dinbren for an evening. Did a 6b and 6b+ to warm up. Got on Technicolour Yawn a 7a+, blew onsight low down, foot popped randomly on second go, got it third go. Switched draws onto Walking with Barrance. Had a go, fell slapping for the hold after the tiny crimps (had the distance but was going for the top of it). Crazy light, it had gone totally flat so seeing footholds was impossible - Ally will confirm it wasn't just me! Eventually clipped the post crux bolt with the stick and worked out some sort of sequence for the crux and then up to the top but suspect it could be made a lot easier with more precise footwork. Then it was dark! Nice crag be good to go back to there for some sport and trad, ditto Craig Arthur.
T: Idwal. Hadn't been there in years for rock. Did Homicide Wall E3, funky rock, easy climbing, dubious gear, good prep for Gogarth. It had always intrigued me as a line in the guide so nice to do it. Went up to Suicide Wall, backed off Capital Punishment which is v bold, wasn't trusting my shoes enough to press on, think I need some new ones. Did Suicide Wall route 2 by way of consolation. Again easy climbing, some funky rock features, and some bold bits.
F: Craig Cwm Glas Bach. Third E4 - Weasels Rip My Flesh! Nice route, hard moves to start where I was pulling really hard on a mono and a filthy little crimp, then some spicy stuff and then a long runout from a good thread on gradually easing ground, wicked pocket climbing. Well chalked which to be honest was pretty helpful. Also seconded an HVS and an E2.
S: Wedding, nothing done.
S: Chilling. Had considered going to Huntsham but by the time we got back from Cambridge it would have been in full sunshine so would have been a bit grim.
Good week. Chuffed with another E4 - had felt a bit like I'd plateaued since the magic trip end of May but good to be reminded that if I get on stuff and try really hard I can pull it out of the bag. Psyched for more. Massively ambitious goal of 10 E4s by the end of the year? Who knows?
Hopefully scafell for a few days midweek, maybe get some sport etc in too, then think I've got a weekend scheduled in with Ally possibly up at Goredale. Cave Route Right and Face Route perhaps.
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.
M: - 4.05m trail run, 499ft.
T: - 6.02m trail run, 673ft.
W: am - 6.55m trail run, 1,174ft.
W: pm - Stanage Popular routes.
T: – nothing.
F: - 9.42m trail run, 1,201ft.
S: - 8.07m trail run, 817ft.
S: - 5.92m trail run, 664ft.
Really looking forward to Snowdon race on Saturday, not because I feel fit, just because it is such a good event.
Just seen that Finlay Wild is in the Scotland team, as is Murray Strain.
Andi Jones confirms in his latest blog that he is doing it.
Can't wait for the S4C footage on Sunday, I think it will be a fantastic race at the front.
I do enough running to know that doing 10 miles a day for 5 days a week is pretty impressive. Back to back 10ks are hard enough...
Friday sounds good. I'll email you. I saw that you went to Huntsham recently, we could try there? It's supposed to be good right? Also it means you can try hard stuff if you want to, so you don't have to drop down to my level.
If not I'd be happy to try somewhere in the Wye. Or the Gower, if you want to try there.
Huntsham is quite fun for bouldering definitely and most of the bouldering I can recall doesn't come into the sun until late afternoon or early evening. I've not done any of the routes there. It would probably also be possible to combine with Symonds Yat (morning shade) for a bit of a mix and match day.
After potentially spending 3 days midweek out on the trad and the prospect of being winched up stuff next weekend I wouldn't worry about me having to drop my level - I will probably either be broken or keen for the excuse! :)
Goals for 2013:
Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E2s, 3 E3s) (excluding snowballing!)
Peak lime: 10 E2s, 5 E3s in 2013 (so far 2 E2, 5 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 2 E3s)
Overall that would be 91 E-points...let's chuck in 9 E1s and make it 100 :)
Sport: 2 7b+s to keep my hand in, ideally Brachiation Dance and Space Race but I'm not holding myself to those - too conditions, travel and partner-dependent.
M: Fingerboard session. Mostly focussing on foot-on endurance training.
W: rest I think
T: Fingerboard session as for Monday and Tuesday again.
S: Went to Scugdale aiming to solo lots of routes. Way too hot. Did about 20 routes up to E1 but left after a couple of hours and went shopping instead - I was burning up, sweating gallons and generally felt like I was about to die! In the evening I tried to climb at Caley, did Rabbits Paw Wall but it was too hot & greasy to pull on anything else, I couldn't even get more than a move up the V4 lightning crack. Terrible conditions! Bailed to Leeds city centre for a drink.
S: nothing, massive pub lunch!
Had the week off the bouldering wall due to worries about my ankle after the fall last week, but it seems to be 100% again now. Got some decent fingerboard mileage in. Saturday was disappointing but I got some nice little routes done and saw a new crag, so not the end of the world! Away for more family stuff next weekend and won't be climbing, but might try to get out Thursday evening.
i'm sticking with it because there's no chance i'm packing it in or going elsewhere in the mean time.. but for f*cks sake when do we ever have summers like this?
is it just in my head or do feet even become an issue in these conditions?
anyway.. this is how my week's gone...
4x sessions at malham
daily cardio apart from on tuesday when we couldn't go running after climbing as it was too midgey... the worse night ever for the midges.. not usually as bad as this and hasn't been as bad since then
malham sessions... consistent linking on top rope up to rest ledge (apart from friday night when i just greased off stuff and felt tired as was on second day in a row .. also after an intense hill ride at lunch time)
other sessions.. loads more gains..
sunday.. very hot just top roped.. link to rest ledge
tuesday pm-managed to lead the top bulge for first time without as much fuss and good links afterwards on top rope
thursday pm- felt strong.. got rope up, it cooled down slightly with a gentle breeze so top roped up to rest ledge with loads left in the tank, pulled rope and rested for half an hour (felt lethargic in the heat though when just belaying)the breeze went so back with horrid conditions but reached my high point on lead i.e. over first overlap (crux) fell trying reachy bulge, jumped straight back on and managed to lead to the top with a couple of more falls and rests) brilliant result for me as this is the first time i've led the top wall.. has helped my head a lot and now i can put it in my logbook as lead dog :o) no big deal for most people but a huge confidence booster for me.
friday pm- ridiculously hot and sweaty.. we decided just to top rope, i couldn't link through second bulge as it felt too warm and i was tired but got straight back on and linked to last bolt before lower off.. managing to use the rest ledge as an actual rest now instead of it feeling desperate and a pointless exercise hanging around trying to recover.. i'm definitely getting a lot back and could stay there longer to get even more back. did this three times.
this weekend.. core work and biking.. no climbing. i thought that any sessions would feel counter productive after four hard sessions.. back on it tuesday after work.. fingers crossed for better conditions.
Great work on that E4, looks like a cool route
Great route yeah, lovely pockety wall. Good to be out pulling hard on things again after Saturdays foray into "easy but funky" terrain :) Variety keeps it fresh!
Got plans for the next week or two...?
Our little trip to Malham really screwed me over, I didn't take proper rest and got the most detrimental forearm fatigue I have ever experienced!
If I recover soon I'm keen for Body Machine then the 8a extension.
You were clocking up some serious mileage at the end of the day!
Never been to Raven Tor, keep thinking I should really. Indecent and body machine both look ace.
I'd recommend Obscene Toilet too, but I've not been back on it as I've got tunnel vision for BM!
What a bunch of whingers ! "It's too hot." Boo hoo ! It's hit 40 degrees here 3 days this week, try that ;-)
Up at 6.30am to run and train in the garage at 10pm. Garage has a corrugated iron roof so it's like an oven otherwise.
Nothing exciting to report.
Got my 35 miles in over 5 runs from 5-14ish miles. Bit of guess work really as i don't have any way of measuring it. Just trying to think what pace i am running at from when i used to run more.
On the board i cracked 4 reps of 2m on and 4.30 rest so now onto 4m rest. I think after that i will need to steepen the board again to up the intensity rather than keep dropping the rest time. It feels hard and then suddenly just goes easy. With the heat and being tired i was expecting to make no progress this week so happy with that.
My Mum arrives tomorrow and we are going to the Benicassim festival this weekend so no climbing again. Week after is booked in though ( Loja 7b+ )and then DWS the weekend after. Can't wait.
A thin week climbing wise as predicted. Indoors once, FB once. The weekend trip west I didn't go on 'cos of a lack of able partners. It sucked but the BBQ and beer excess was fun - I also suspect it was wickedly hot at the crag.
This week, indoor once, FB once and then the weekend in the lower wye valley. Should be good, any must do E2-4 recommendations? Nothing which will kill me please.
The ones on my list to do are hyena cage, vulture squadron, kaiser wall, big dong on the main bit of go wall, the E2 over on the right by the pedestal (never say die? Near Isle of Dogs), firefly (which I think you've done), gendarmerie and the otherE4 that doesn't have the 6b pitch on it (la folie?).
In terms of things I've done you might like, I thought the E3 next to freedom, fly in the eye, was nice enough. Big brother direct isn't bad and never E3, I've not done p2 as I did tower route instead which was good fun. And strange little girl if you fancy pulling hard in bolt protected safety in an awesome position on the crux second pitch. Hard moves though!
Fly wall and stuff is in the shade until early afternoon, north wall far less, so if its full on sunny then early starts might be beneficial.
> anyway.. this is how my week's gone...
> 4x sessions at malham
I think I might have spotted your mistake.... mind like a razor!
So far as I know crags don't get jealous - Malham won't spurn you forevermore if you spend a week somewhere shady (or at least not shaped like a giant, south-ish facing parabolic reflector).
> What a bunch of whingers ! "It's too hot." Boo hoo ! It's hit 40 degrees here 3 days this week, try that ;-)
On the brightside it justifed me staying on the sofa for three days watching the ashes. :o)
my chin is back up
onwards and upwards :o)
T: Ty Newedd - Trying to escape the heat, fell off the last move of a steep F7a+ on 3rd redpoint. Had two more goes but kept getting pumped. Tried this a couple of weeks ago and couldn't get anywhere near so good to be close. Keep on pushing myself on the steep stuff!
W: Castle Inn - Climbing with the girlfriend, did 2 F4's barefoot - interesting! Then did Cross Winds F6c+ first go after working it last week - great route. Also retro flashed a techy F6b+ slab - the whole session was a grease fest!
F: RAC Boulders - Stupidly hot, Did loads of easy stuff including 2 cool V3's.
S: Core/Stretching - 100 Crunches, 30 Side Raises L & R, 60 Aqua Man's, 40 Arm/Leg Alt raises.
Been another slow week due to the heat, I know I shouldn't complain but I get heatstroke really easily so have spent a lot of this heatwave feeling rubbish =(
STG - boulder more 6a's , get more confident outdoors, lead S by choice , keep the psyche, second whatever my friends climb & lead every session I can
MTG - 6b sport, lead HS without screaming tooooooooo much , get psyche to lead routes I chose
LTG - to feel I can push myself on lead, be stronger, find routes I really want to do, make a wishlist by the end of the year
T: supposed to go climbing, got so hot walking home couldn't face it, tidied the house some more fighting the headache
W: supposed to go climbing (again), lift bailed
T: quick buckstones session to actually climb, was very warm and I seemed to have a complete loss of confidence which I think was due to me not trusting my fingers to stick to rock
F: taught myself to do a bit of plumbing
S: session at blackstones, walk in trying to kill me (stupid heat), head was still not there, only completed one problem but played on some other stuff, feeling really de-motivated, spent evening recovering from the mild heat-stroke
S: Up to west nab quite early in the morning in an attempt to get something done, was actually cool enough to climb and got up lots of things (still below my normal grade) but enough to give me some confidence again
So slow week but had a good end, don't think I'm gonna be pushing many goals while it remains this hot unless I can get out earlier. Off on Friday to Holland so don't think I'll be posting next week
Thanks mattrm, good work :o)
STG: Ground Effect (7b) at Kilnsey, trad E1s and E2s, work on remembering sequences for RPs.
MTG: 7a flash or in a day or quick 7b RP in Spain.
LTG: lots of E2s, maybe look at E3, RP 7b+.
Tues: 5 mile local trail run, 200m ascent
Weds: 5.2 mile trail run in Langdale
Thurs: Dow, alt lead onsight Nimrod E1 5c, I led the crux 5c pitch.
Fri: Scafell, alt lead onsight Central Buttress, E1 5b. No hard leads for me.
Sat: 13.2 mile run. 7.5 mile part reccy of leg 4 of the Joss Naylor route, plus 6.5 miles over Red Pike and Yewbarrow. 1,600m ascent.
Sun: Sacked off Kilnsey cos of knackeredness/heat. Short circuit session at Ingleton wall to build up PE for Ground Effect.
Really good few days in the Lakes on two really good routes. I was pleased to lead the 5c pitch of Nimrod as it will give me more confidence to try E2 5c now. Friday was good too, Scafell is an awesome crag and Central Buttress is an amazing route. That 5b pitch is incredible.
Great effort on the Lakes routes - still not done either of these yet!
They're both brilliant routes. Central Buttress might be the best E1 I've done. I can't understand why it only gets two stars. I think it must be because there are 3 or 4 so so pitches and only one stand out pitch. What a pitch though, so exposed!
After you mentioned Totalitarian I had a look at it in the guidebook, it looks awesome. I tried to persuade my partner to do it this week but he's already done it. It's on my list now though.
Got any other "must do" routes at E1 and E2? My current plan for this week is to go up to Neckband but if there are other worthwhile crags it would be good to know about them.
DOES ANYONE HAVE A BD PECKER #1 or TOMAHAWK #1 THEY WANT TO SELL, or I CAN BORROW FOR A TRAD PROJECT?
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond
MTG (Summer 2013)
SUP ext at Pigeons - cruising the bottom section, just need to work out a way to do the crux which is currently very low percentage for me.
"To do" list at Kilnsey; The Bulge, Mandela, Urgent Action. Maybe investigate Full Tilt and Steal the Show?
New additions: Insomnia at Dinbren and K3 down the dale. Trad project in Clwyd
Fit in some trad: Positron, King Wad, Cave Route Right & Central Wall (Kilnsey) currently motivate me. Who's keen?
Priorities - re-assessment:
- Finger re-hab - stay on top of injuries and avoid Melancholie!
- Shoulder/elbow physio - shoulder is aching again. More thera-band sessions needed!
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; new aim <73kg Unknown current weight/fat but probably not good after wedding glutony...
The week just gone:
M - Rest
T - Kilnsey. Bulgette, then dogged Bulge, then fired it off 1st redpoint. Made such a difference with the bowling ball pocket being bone dry. Felt steady in the end :-) Another bogey route bites the dust! Finished with 4x 7a TR laps.
W - Dinbren, 6b & 6b+ warm-up, then dogging Insomnia. New sequence from Matt D for faster set-up on crux, but top crimps too minging to hold in hot weather. Did 7c/+ start twice on lead. I confirm AJMs analysis of the light situation - weirdly flat and hard to make out small holds.
T - Rest - Cycled to work and back - 16miles ish
F - Post work Clwyd session. Soloed a bunch of stuff including a sketchy E2, then tried E7 on TR. Got shut down. Felt 7c! Found some potential gear but could do with another BD Pecker to get most out of 2 placements - see plea above.
S - Early start at Frodsham - 1.5hr boulder circuit up to 7A+. Then wedding in the sun. Ate and drank far too much.
S - Cheedale Cornice. 2x 7a warm ups, then dogging K3. Hard moves at end of undercutting traverse. Lower back feels worked this morning; could feel that buckling before arms gave way. 5x 7a lead laps to finish. Split tip this morning.
Goredale this weekend? Cave Route Right and Supercool are the objectives - hopefully I have the stamina needed!
I'll match your "massively ambitious trad goal" (I reckon you'll cruise it) with my own "massively ambitious sport goal"...
...Fifty 8a or harder logbook ticks by the end of the year - currently on 40 ascents registered on 8a.poo
How about Central Wall at Kilnsey for another E4 tick this weekend?
Neckband is great; we did a few of the routes up there in June and they're worth the walk. Great rock.
You could have a great day up on Bowfell too - a few years ago we did Fastburn, Woolly Jumper, Air on a Bowstring and Sword of Damocles in a day; all superb routes. I've been harping on about Fastburn for years; it's one of the best single pitches of E2 I've ever done but doesn't see much traffic.
Or you could just go back to Scafell and do Saxon and Ichabod...
Cheers. Those four on/near Bowfell look good. Fastburn - E2 5b - is it well protected?
Our original intention was to do Saxon instead of Central buttress but the energy sapping sweaty walk in put us off.
> DOES ANYONE HAVE A BD PECKER #1 or TOMAHAWK #1 THEY WANT TO SELL, or I CAN BORROW FOR A TRAD PROJECT?
Would a DMM nut key work?
Seem to think stu littlefair had a similar request on the other channel a few weeks ago you could ask him?
I think Neckband would be a good call, particularly if it's as hot as this weekend has been - it should be dry and cool.
There are obviously all the usual suspects, some that may be a little more off the radar:
Banzi Pipeline, Great End Crag.
Failed Romantic - South Crag, Castle Rock.
The Crypt Direct, Quayfoot Buttress.
Do Not Direct and Waste Not Want Not on White Ghyll, (do them in that order as DND is a bit easier.)
Capella followed by Poker Face, easy ab off the top of the crux pitch and do the Golden Slipper crux pitch and then finish to the top, (both routes share first and second belays,) is a great day out on Pavey. (Can do Arcturus on the bottm teir if Capella is busy.)
Gimmer String and Whit's End Direct on Gimmer.
The First Touch, Black Crag.
The Go Between, Quayfoot Buttress.
Bleak How Buttress, Bleak How. (used to be E1 so may be a good early one.
Aphasia, Seargent Slab, (good if you like slabs.)
The above three can be done in one day reasonably easily.
Bloodhound, Gowther, (again, good if you like slabs.)
Centepede Direct, Ravens Langdale, (as we've discussed before,) is super well protected.
Bracken Clock, Pavey - crux is ok, 5b pitch above also deserves respect but is fine.
Spring Bank on Gimmer, (harder crux but less sustained than Whit's End Direct,)
Glass Slipper, (easy,) and Yellow Fever, (small gear - worth a look from the top to see what you're going for first,) on Black Crag. And if these two go well Needle Arete, E3 6a is a good first E3. (If you're not too worried about the onsight there is a vimeo or utube clip of somebody doing it, there is great gear about a metre below the peg but the guy in the film doesn't place it.)
Hope that helps! If you get to the Lakes and it isn't as hot as is forecast, (cloudy at the mo',) the Pavey routes are a good option as the crag catches the sun well.
I will add to the Needle Arete recommendation that you do need to move away from your gear, but it gets easier the higher you go.
That's awesome, thanks! I'm going to print it off and stick it my sack for future reference :o)
Seem to remember it being fine - the bottom is quite steep though and if you hang around too much it can feel a little pumpy. The top wall looks bold but has good small wires. Seem to recall a bit of a sting in the tail near the top but good gear could be arranged.
I don't think I'd recommend The Go Between to someone breaking into E2; the gear before the crux is small and doesn't look overly inspiring, although there's plenty of it. Should be noted as well that Bloodhound is very run out low down and the gear is spaced higher up - easy climbing but needs confidence. Glass Slipper, Spring Bank and Bleak How Buttress are all E1.
The E1s all look like good calls; Banzai Pipeline is the best I've done at the grade in the Lakes. I'd be heading for the high crags in this weather though; save Borrowdale/Gouther/Gimmer etc. for when it's less settled.
A few more I've thought of:
Copenhagen (Hardknott) and The Cayman (Napes) - steady climbing on both of these with decent gear.
Catacomb and Tarkus (Dow) - the start of the latter is a little pokey though.
I don't think its undoable if I put the time into it (selecting careful soft touches), but its more that it feels ambitious if I'm to make any progress on the upper echelons of my sport pyramid or leave myself in a good position for next year - trad just isn't getting me strong or sport fit!
Central wall looks very good, but I already feel like I've got a full weekend on my plate trying to drag my sorry ass up cave route!
We ought to talk plans at some point. Off to scafell tonight.
Also are you still keen to be getting out next weekend? I need to confirm things to other people as to whether I'm available or not :)
Glass Slipper and Spring Bank are guide book E2s, not sure on Bleakhow - E2 on here.
Go Between has a small RP right at the crux, even if this blows it is still a safe fall if you come off. One of my first E2s - day after Cracked Actor. Bloodhound was my mates second E2 lead after Glass Slipper, and again was one of my early E2s. Gear is spaced but climbing is steady, skyhook is useful, but not necessary, for a pocket on the first half.
You are right - high crags is where it's at at the moment.
Nomics - and the HVS / E1s on High Crag Buttermere.
Cheers both, some good advice and a good list of routes to go at there. Neckband sounds like a good plan for this week but there's obviously lots more too, it's good to have those suggestions.
Nice to be out on the bike but it's hard training in this heat, especially the lactate test this week.
Get weight back down to around 142 lbs before end of July: Currently 145.6
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!)
MTB fitness increase with consistent riding
M: 15km Mountain bike ride
T: 15km Mountain bike ride
W: Food poisoning and throwing up :/
T: Food poisoning and shatter from no sleep :/
S: 30km Mountain bike ride – including 20 mintutes at TT pace for lactate threshold test. Always hate these tests but glad it's done now.
S: 61km mountain bike ride with 1000m total ascent, hard work to stay hydrated in this heat.
Weekly total on the bike: 120km.
Off to the Lakes on Monday so mileage may be down this week but hoping to get on some rock, even if it's scrambling!
found the UKB thread:
couple of offers of peckers
Get Saxon done. It's awesome.
Needle Arete is briliant and a good 1st E3. Feels spicey but once you've done it you realise it's not - if that makes sense.
The combination of Bleak How Buttress and Aphasia is a nice one. You could even start at Quayfoot with something like Mandrake or the other HVS that i have forgotten the name of.
I remember the Go Between being scary but it was one of my first and i wasn't trusting the small gear. Also Reiver at Bleak How is a great HVS for a quick warm up.
Phillistine at High Crag is an awesome E1 not to be ignored. Not done any E2's up there.
Glass Slipper is easy climbing, but if E1 was 'your grade' i think most people would struggle with the mental side of it.
I reckon E2 is a better grade than E1 in general in the Lakes. Get to it.
Ok, this week I continue to bimble on. I'm not really pushing at the moment, just trying to keep stuff regular. But it's all good mileage, my shoulder will hopefully sort itself out soon (rotator cuff?), and I don't have finger injuries.
M: 45' easy swimming with GF, so not concentrated training really
Tu: Dinbren, Llangollen: 3 routes (2 on Lead)
* Laughing Gnome VS 4b (Lead): Lots of off-balance sidepulls and pull-off holds! harder than it sounded.
* Ash Crack HS (Seconded): I had to make it harder to make it worthwhile by trying to only use holds in the crack!
* Yew Tree Wall VS 4c (Lead): Now that's a bit better: a bold starting traverse then easy climbing above 4m or so.
W: 20' PROPER swimming :)
Th: Halkyn Mountain: A lazy evening trip, but armed with proper climbing shoes for once. Found that the large 4m wall had both a good traverse and a good ascent problem: slightly overhanging with a long reach up to thin finger crimp cracks, without any feet to follow. Kept Craig & I busy for an hour or two!
Sa: Another "Adventure Climb": Mur Y Niwl VS 4c (4b/5a/4c/4c), Craig Yr Ysfa, Carnedd Dafydd. I led the first and 3rd pitches. P1 had a big dyno off the ground to mantle up to the easy path. P2 had a very exposed and un-protected step-down; and P3 I messed up rope organisation on the there-and-and-back-again, C-shaped traverse: big friction due to the yellow rope rubbing horribly in a crack. Luckily my partner has lots of experience and patience (doing MIA). The worst challenge was the heat: I drank 4 litres of water on my return home without any consequent (ahem) throughput, so to speak!
Su: Sleep in late, recover from heat exhaustion; evening swim at Porth Nobla (near Cable Bay) on Anglesey. Sea was still cold :D
For next week, I'll try to read up on my goals. I'm going to do an outdoor sport club meet (revisiting Penmaenbach Quarry) tomorrow to try to push grade without having to worry about gear placement and see if my rock-reading is getting better. Then it's a Daughter weekend in Somerset, with some bouldering at the newly-opening Minehead Eye bouldering wall.
Thanks for all the motivation everyone! Stay happy & confident! :D
I did Mur Y Niwl with a certain AJM about 7 years ago and thought the Severe above, Pinnacle Wall, was absolutely amazing - did you do that?
Great crag. I'm quite keen to go back and do Aura.
Hi Matt, cheers for doing fitclub.
Complete up to top level of 7c+ pyramid - 1x7b done (1x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c still to do)
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Castle. Decent hard boulder.
Wedns - Castle. Boulder. Long problems in the catacombs to finish session - very pumped.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Wallsend. RP Ariane V 7b - what a great route.
Sat - Wallsend. Frying hot. Tried Realm of Chaos (7b+), felt discouraged.
Sun - Wallsend. Ditto frying hot - spent more of the day in the sea than climbing. Back on Realm of Chaos. Got a complete sequence for most of the route including the crux but haven't looked at the top groove yet - I think there's some more hard moves up there! It's really good but feels a long way off.
Current most obvious weakness is power endurance I think, I know what to do to fix it but it's painful and boring...!
I'm thinking Kaiser Wall may be the weekends fun, your list isnt too dis similar to my tabs in the book, thanks, Kev.
What were your E4's?
STG: Keep getting on e2/e3 routes.
MTG: 17(4) e-points in July
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(24 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. FoF. Committing to blind moves.
Mon: Chee Dale.
Sat: Roaches(1 epoint).
Sun: Millstone(0 epoints).
Thanks mattrm, I really enjoyed last weeks climbing.
This week I fell to pieces. Went to Chee Dale on Monday & got scared leading & seconding, so settled on just being scared seconding. Seconded Mad Dogs & Englishmen which I found really hard.
On Saturday I warmed-up on an e1 but then fell to pieces. Sunday I was struggling on VS @ Millstone.
A combination of too much drinking & too little sleep has been my down fall last week. Given I have a weeks holiday in the lakes in 2 weeks I really need to pull my finger out, good sleeping, no(t much) drinking, lots of training & climbing.
Needle Arete was my first e3 a month back. If you can climb e2 you'll find it easy ;)
Yellow Fever is amazing, builds to an exciting crux (due to fiddly gear).
Spring Bank is also amazing, borderline e1/e2 & one of those routes where its rest, gear, hard moves gradually easing to rest, gear, hard moves gradually easing to..., repeat......
I love climbing in the lakes!
Done Penny or Katana depending on which guide you look at on holyhead mountain, fell off resurrection on the cromlech, succeeded on grand alliance in Borrowdale and on weasels rip my flesh in the pass.
We were thoroughly fed up with the heat by then, so looked for the quickest route off, up the slab behind Bilberry Terrace then escape to the chimney at the back right of the Quartz Ledge. It turned out the chimney was full of post-winter choss, including a huge loose spike! So the adventure continued for a pitch more...
M-52 minute run. Not very fast as I've got a very chesty cough at the moment. Going to Doc's about this evening as it's still bad. 280 core movements
T-Poor Bouldering session. A bit warm and I was teaching a new climber. Never a good mix for training. Managed a few good runs up and down campus board. 1-4-7 a few times etc...
W-5k Warm up jog. 2.5K in 10mins (not quick but hard work with heat and cough). 3min rest. 1K in 3:30. 3mins. 500m in 1:33. Cool down walk/jog. Cough killed me.
F-Work's night out. Absolutely hammered.
S-Passed out on sofa. Watched cricket from start to finish.
S- Cheedale. Had a few plays on Roof Warrior. Skin and body went off the cliff on the third go. It all went from being relatively fine to me not being able to pull on. Weird. Might get back on that, Powerplant or Insomnia this week.
I'm free 12pm Friday to Sat evening and all of Sunday. Up for anywhere day-trippable from brum but I need to be back Sat evening. If anyone is keen, give me a shout.
So many routes to go at!! I'm not really at the stage where I'll jump on any E2, so it's good to know a bit about a few of them. And E3, well, Needle Arete will have to wait. The E1s I've done have been good though so if biscuit's right and E2s are even better then I really ought to push myself to do some.
Might leave Yellow Fever for a while too, leon's logbook comment makes me think I'd definitely gibber:
"fiddly & spaced gear that only ever looks "hmmmm, maybe"
leon: Sounds like you had a bad head weekend. I'm sure it will all come good next time you're out. Everyone has a bad day every now and then.
Yellow Fever is ok with small cams and wires, but it is worth a look from the top to see what you're going for.
Thanks, think it was my own fault, dumb route selection & just not looking after myself all week.
Don't read too much into my comments. Some people are as timid as a mouse, i'm timid of a mouse!!
Hi there I'd like to join the UKC fit club! I seem to procrastinate about training and climbing loads so convince myself I don't have time but I live 18 mins from stanage and even closer to rivelin and bell hagg with great running and MTB straight from my door step along with access to all the Sheffield walls.
I've climbed extensively all over but always struggle to get the balance right when I'm working full time and strength and confidence disappear.
10 pull ups (2)
Weight 12st 7 (13st 3)
My plan is to use Pilates and running (max 50 min) for conditioning as I already have 15 years climbing experience and then get on my pull up bar and hang board to supplement the few times I get to the wall or out cragging.
Looking forward to all the motivational advice
T 3 routes upto hs at st David's heas s face
W 3 routes up to vs at Craig caerfai
F dog walk?? - saw wild otters!
Welcome Dan! I think that may be the first sighting of wild otters on Fit Club. I've never seen one, so I'm very jealous.
Next time you go to Pembroke get up v early and take walk (or run) around the lily ponds at bosherston. If you're lucky you'll see em. I think we were the only lucky ones that morning and saw one catch a fish a take it back to the family!
I am going to be in the North West ( Manchester based ) for a few days with nothing planned from the 7th - 12th August.
I am busy on the 11th but nothing else on.
Up for trad, sport, bouldering or anything really.
Any takers let me know.
Monday was supposed to have an operation - they'd 'forgotten' me. The 'rents had come up, so took a couple of days off work to do stuff with them, which meant training was out the window. Thursday packed and Friday evening headed off to Wales for four days.
(Seems I just missed you at the cottage AJM)
Saturday - Walked into Lliwedd bright and early to do Avalanche, Red Wall and Longlands as two teams of two but Chiz bailed at the bottom and that meant we headed off as a three. It was right busy, let a few teams through but some turned out slower than us! Some arsehole removed the sling belay I was leading on, so he could place his own below, leaving me about 30m out on a No. 2 nut - so pleased the other two didn't tell me until we were off the crag - he'd have had more than a piece of my mind. Utter cock. A bit of a messy climb and I fail to see how it gets a Classic Rock tick.
Sunday - Clogwyn Bochlwyd. Some shade at least and bumped into Marion Wintringham - so nice to see her out climbing again after Ben's passing. Made plans to possibly climb with her on the Monday, which would have been a real privilege. Led a VS variation, only my 2nd VS, I ran that bit out and Magda had a good lead on Mail Wall. She was chuffed to bits when I told her Marion had thought she had a good head for climbing. Did a couple of other things too.
Sat on top of Bochlwyd late on Sunday evening and felt like the king of the world for a while. Perfect weather, peaceful, top views, I'd climbed comfortably with good people and had no desire to be anywhere else. It's nice when it all comes together.
Just back from 5 days in North Wales, some fantastic days out and good ticks - will update 2 weeks in one next week. Incredibly psyched on mountain multipitch. Either Scotland or Lakes this weekend. I'm a little worried about the Scottish midge situation though - Nant Peris was bad enough!!
Keen as usual for trad sport or bouldering.
I am currently trying a few different Lancs moorland bouldering venues. All good so far.
Could probably do something for any/all of that time. Nt too fussed as to what...
I'll let you know what days we're going to Kilnsey that week. Usual lift share options available!
Anyone need a partner for Kilnsey this Saturday? Lifts from Ilkley area / en-route. Email me if interested. Conditions were as good as can be expected last Sunday - shady after lunchtime and breezy enough to cool and keep the midges away (Saturday was still and comparatively hellish mind!).
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