/ Frankenjura Tips

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RFWilkie - on 15 Jul 2013
Heading to the Frankenjura for a couple of weeks at the end of the month, looking for some recommendations in the 6c - 7a+ range, plus any good crags for lower grade stuff 5 - 6b. What are the grades like, looking at on-line tables conversion seems to put F7a as UIAA VIII is that about right?

Also any tips for stuff to do on rest days.
John W - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to RFWilkie:

A forum search is your best bet - just checked, there are 7 recent threads, plus 61 older ones. There's loads of advice and info already given which will answer your questions.

JW
AlanLittle - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to John W:
>
> A forum search is your best bet - just checked, there are 7 recent threads

Was my first reaction too, but actually he has some more specific questions.

> recommendations in the 6c - 7a+ range

A bit above my current range, but based on limited experience: Schöne Aussicht is really, erm, schön. Grüne Hölle looks good but has been wet every time I've tried to go there, and I suspect might still be damp/seeping from the very wet spring. Weissenstein is a terible cliche but still a must visit. Edelsteine. People seem to rate Gotthardskirche but it's hidden deep in the woods and I got lost failing to find it. Ankatalwand looks fantastic but I haven't actually done anything there on account of the easiest route being runout 6b+

> any good crags for lower grade stuff 5 - 6b
Weisse Wand (north side prob better than south side in summer) Roter Fels has longer routes than most in Franken and is good but is right above a main road, noisy & crowded at weekends (see also Weissenstein). Hartensteiner Wand. Haselstaudeneer Wände

> F7a as UIAA VIII is that about right?
Yes but bear in mind the bolting esp. on older classic routes tends to be quite runout so you want to have a grade or two (or a clipstick) in hand.

See also this very useful list:
http://topoguide.de/topoguide-Magazin/Sektoren_und_Routen_Franken.pdf


jimtitt - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to RFWilkie:
> F7a as UIAA VIII is that about right?
>
> Also any tips for stuff to do on rest days.

Sounds about right, it depends on how quickly you get used to the style and what sort of climbing you usually do. If you are more a technical climber it takes a while to transfer to the other techniques you need in the Franken, if you come from a thuggy crack climbing background you´ll be screwed! Both 7a elsewhere and VIII in the Franken are my onsight limit it so must be correct somewhere along the line. it´s steep and pocketed so footwork is all important illogical as it may seem.

Rest days? Go to a lot of pubs, go into a cave, eat cream teas, paddle a river, ride the steam train, visit the birthplace of the Nuremburg bratwurst? I don´t have rest days there as I live near enough to go home so no real experience I´m afraid, probably visiting Nuremburg or Bayreauth might be an idea .
LeeWood - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to RFWilkie: I've climbed at a number of the Frankenjura crags & the Roter Fels was memorable as I prefer longer pitches. I don't remember road noise being an issue (on a weekday).
nath_casper - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to RFWilkie:

Was there earlier in the summer, my favourite crag by a long, long way was Klinge:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10486

Very impressive vertical and steep routes lichetenfelser dach - Geldeutel was really fun but there were some other brilliant routes. I found the grading between german grades 7 and 8 very variable, but that just might be my preference for certain styles.

Have fun..
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madam - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to RFWilkie:
When I go to "Jura" I always check http://www.frankenjura.com/klettern/suche/felsen

You can tick what area you wanna search through(N/S/W/E), what grades you are interested in and choose to list only crags with 3 stars and more (out of 5 stars).

My reccomendations:
1. Schlaraffenland (that's the name from guidebook, on frankanjura.com they split it into Hirschbacher wand, teufelsrissmassiv, etc...) - plenty of all grades and its NOT in the sun (invaluable last weekend:)

2. Castellwand + Mittelbergwand (very close to Schlarafen)

enjoy...

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