/ Frankenjura Tips
Also any tips for stuff to do on rest days.
A forum search is your best bet - just checked, there are 7 recent threads, plus 61 older ones. There's loads of advice and info already given which will answer your questions.
> A forum search is your best bet - just checked, there are 7 recent threads
Was my first reaction too, but actually he has some more specific questions.
A bit above my current range, but based on limited experience: Schöne Aussicht is really, erm, schön. Grüne Hölle looks good but has been wet every time I've tried to go there, and I suspect might still be damp/seeping from the very wet spring. Weissenstein is a terible cliche but still a must visit. Edelsteine. People seem to rate Gotthardskirche but it's hidden deep in the woods and I got lost failing to find it. Ankatalwand looks fantastic but I haven't actually done anything there on account of the easiest route being runout 6b+
See also this very useful list:
> Also any tips for stuff to do on rest days.
Sounds about right, it depends on how quickly you get used to the style and what sort of climbing you usually do. If you are more a technical climber it takes a while to transfer to the other techniques you need in the Franken, if you come from a thuggy crack climbing background you´ll be screwed! Both 7a elsewhere and VIII in the Franken are my onsight limit it so must be correct somewhere along the line. it´s steep and pocketed so footwork is all important illogical as it may seem.
Rest days? Go to a lot of pubs, go into a cave, eat cream teas, paddle a river, ride the steam train, visit the birthplace of the Nuremburg bratwurst? I don´t have rest days there as I live near enough to go home so no real experience I´m afraid, probably visiting Nuremburg or Bayreauth might be an idea .
Was there earlier in the summer, my favourite crag by a long, long way was Klinge:
Very impressive vertical and steep routes lichetenfelser dach - Geldeutel was really fun but there were some other brilliant routes. I found the grading between german grades 7 and 8 very variable, but that just might be my preference for certain styles.
When I go to "Jura" I always check http://www.frankenjura.com/klettern/suche/felsen
You can tick what area you wanna search through(N/S/W/E), what grades you are interested in and choose to list only crags with 3 stars and more (out of 5 stars).
1. Schlaraffenland (that's the name from guidebook, on frankanjura.com they split it into Hirschbacher wand, teufelsrissmassiv, etc...) - plenty of all grades and its NOT in the sun (invaluable last weekend:)
2. Castellwand + Mittelbergwand (very close to Schlarafen)
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