/ Routes that exceeded expectations.

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davidbeynon - on 15 Jul 2013
Title is self explanatory. Give a route and a reason.

I will start the ball rolling with Christmas Retreat on Aran Faddwy. I was expecting slightly crappy rock in a great location. What I got was really sound rock and a highly enjoyable route in a great location.
Jon Stewart - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon:

With the GG theme from the other thread, this is a route I always bang on about, it's brilliant - like a mini Elegy!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=32180

This looks atrocious (and the upper part is, I suppose) but the first half of the route is sustained, well protected climbing with brilliant moves, the BMC guide is right to give it **.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=99316

I thought this would be good since it's a classic, but it's so brilliant that it totally blew away my expectations:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=35957

The only routes I like more are probably the Second Geo routes at Sheigra - my expectations of those were high and were still exceeded.

Simon Caldwell - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon:
Low Man from Hopkinson's Cairn on Scafell crag. Did it yesterday.
It's rarely done, perhaps because it's only Diff and you have to climb Severe to get there, so most people choose one of the other Severe exists. It also gets no stars. And is badly described in the guidebook.
Anyway, it turned out to be a 2-star VDiff which made a fitting end to the weekend.
gg4419 - on 15 Jul 2013
Rock Idol at Mother Carey's, I heard it was good but it was actually amazing also in Pembroke Heart of Darkness/New Morning blew my mind away!
AlanLittle - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to gg4419:

Smilarly: Concrete Chimney. I mean, clearly one goes on a three star HVS on Gogarth expecting it to be good, but I didn't expect it to be far and away the best route I had ever done at the grade.

Spring Bank on Gimmer was also quite a bit better than I expected from the one or two stars it had in the guidebook at the time: definitely one of the better single pitches I've ever done.
beardy mike - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon: Superdirect on Milestone buttress (which I knew nothing about and had only heard people harp on about it a few times) and also Fratricide wall - I forget the name of the crag, but it has Lavaredo as well - just a stonking route with only 1 star - just an epic finish to it!
MischaHY - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon: Most recently, Bulwark at the Roaches (Hen Cloud, Pinnacles) - I picked what looked like an easy line for a quick warm up, slightly the left of a pretty green crack, but it turned into a teetering traverse to the outside of the buttress, and then committing and scary moves on shallow shot holes to gratefully gain the top, with gear a horribly long way below. Scary and exciting :D
Calder - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon:

One that comes to mind is Route 1 at Wimberry, mainly because I hate grit and just did it cos it was 3 stars. But it turned out to be a treat to climb, made even better by my second trying to layback his way up with excessive exertion, all red faced and panting.

When I press submit I'll probably think of something else, too...
teflonpete - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon:

Mur y Niwl

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29164

Thought it would be good but wasn't expecting it to be that good. Did it with the Pinnacle Wall finish which at it's grade offers a superb route to carry on the fun from MyN.
Rog Wilko on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to teflonpete: That's interesting - did MyN recently and because it gets so much hype (best VS in Wales etc) I was just very faintly disappointed. Well, at least, didn't fit this thread for me.
BnB - on 16 Jul 2013
Collie's route to the Cioch on Skye. Just about Moderate grade but it completely charmed me with its combination of true mountain atmosphere, exploratory route finding, massive (if brief) exposure and the best picnic platform in the UK. Just goes to show that grade isn't everything. Even Arrow route just next door fails to match its air of exploration.
AlanLittle - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to BnB:

Good point. Sgurr Dubh Mor slabs. Best easy route in the UK. Lovely climbing in a stunning location.
Offwidth - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon:

Most recently two unstarred 'VD' climbs at Ravenstones: the impressive chimney of Mark II and the unapealing sounding Muddy Corner (both slightly sandbag graded); and on Tryfan east face the one star HS Crackerjack (the second pitch was especially impressive, as was the VS finish) and on Milestone Buttress Little Gully Wall the lovely HS up the southern wall of the descent gully that I can't beleive I've gone past so many times without noticing. Then finally an unnamed VS Moff spotted that went straight up from the graffitti on the right side of Bedstead Bay (might possible be Visions of the Emerald), on Lindly Moor Edge.
The Ivanator - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon: Some climbs with one or no stars that have turned out to be fantastic:
Something on the Wall VS (Limeslade Crag, Gower)
Birthday Treat 5+ (Winspit)
Winter Sun 6a (The Cuttings)
Agamemnon 6c (Wintour's Leap)
Sister Mary's Blessed Finger 6a (Three Sisters, Gower)
Stormy Weather HVS (Cornakey Cliff)
Wallaby Direct HVS (Roaches Upper)
Wessex Hangover VS (Cattle Troughs)
Skip - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:
> (In reply to davidbeynon) Some climbs with one or no stars that have turned out to be fantastic:

> Stormy Weather HVS (Cornakey Cliff)
>.

Had a few recommendations for this climb.

CharlieMack - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon:

First route to jump to mind is Bachelors left hand at Hen cloud. Very stiff for HVS, and packs in virtually every sort of climbing, run out, hard cranking, bold and safe in different sections. Laybacks, finger locks and some thrutching at the top unless your offwidth and jamming technique is up to scratch.

Definately one of the best routes i've done.
Offwidth - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

As many people's view of a clear contender for the best HVS on grit I'm not quite sure how it could possibly exceed expectations (unless you hate grit ;-)
Jamie B - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon:

Did Western Slabs on Dinas Mot recently and thought it was worth 3 stars, much better than the more crowded and polished "classics" further left.
CharlieMack - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

I did it years ago, and had no idea about it's reputation. Just another HVS i thought. But i'd definitely agree, certainly the best HVS i've done on grit. Possibly the best HVS i've done, apart from either maybe Centurion or Dream of white horses. But as a single pitch route. Hands down the winner.
AlanLittle - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Jamie B:

Interesting. I personally didn't rate Western Slabs that highly but thought West Rib (with the Chain finish) was much better than Diagonal.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Troy Tempest - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon:
Auricle at Bamford, my first E2. Giant jugs and good gear but still tricky. Nails if you're short, mind.
The Ivanator - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon: Climbed a fantastic and unsung Pat Littlejohn HVS yesterday at Upper Jacky's Tor on Gower, well worthy of 2 stars:
Thanksgiving http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=86147
Beautiful setting, strong line, decent rock and some great moves.
Big Lee - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon:

Cracked Arete on Carreg Mianog.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=63042

One of the best VS climbs I've done on Snowdonia. Good climbing the whole way with no polish. Better than most of the 'classics' of the area.

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