/ Right Wall - Dinas Cromlech, beta

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CharlieMack - on 15 Jul 2013
Looking at doing this in the next week or so whilst the weather is nice and it's all dried out. I've already looked at lots of photos over the years of this and heard a thing or two, so can no longer claim the onsight. Just wanting any 'must know' gear and general beta, such as the 2 size 3 cams?? I want to get it clean first go with beta.

Don't want a blow by blow account, but more things such as 'don't hang around on the shot hole' type beta.
E5 is right at my onsight limit, so hoping to get it clean with necessary beta.
kevin stephens - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:
By "getting it Clean" are you worried about having to grab the gear on the crux? Well no need to worry about that
CharlieMack - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to kevin stephens:

Yea, i mean prefer to get it first go, not much option of dogging the route. Hoping for any little tips that will save enough pump to avoid 'the whipper'.
a lakeland climber on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

Take some thin slings and a set of hexes.

The hard climbing is close to gear getting easier as you get further from it.

ALC
chris m fisher - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

Climb confidently, fully rest on the ledges and most importantly, enjoy it!
John Mcshea - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:
Seriously I think this is the best advice: Take your normal rack, don't take confusing advice from others and trust in your own abilities. More than one person has put in that "crucial hex/nut/cam etc" only to find the placement later on. And the hard bits/easy bits/resty bits, same problem. Trust your own abilities over others advice, I think you will enjoy it more and it will be easier ..... In my humble opinion.
Great route.

Jb.
GuyVG - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to John Mcshea:

well said that man, as a self confessed beta hoarder it has been well recieved
shark - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

Be confident that holds and gear will appear - they will. Trouble with Cromlech is that you can only see the next move and it looks blank beyond.
CharlieMack - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

Cheers for all the advice guys. Hope the weather holds. Psyched to get on it.
GeoffRadcliffe - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

Extreme rock mentions a friend 2.5 as the gear for one section near the crozzly spike. I thought a friend 3 would have been a better choice.

I also thought that the section just after the crozzly spike to be fairly tough for a move or two but I found that the holds got a lot better the nearer I got to the girdle ledge.

Above the girdle ledge there is a tricky section to get to a feature known as the 'port hole'. It is difficult to get good protection in this feature (I didn't bother putting any gear in the 'port hole') and it is also difficult to move up from here.

There is a picture of Martin (Basher) Atkinson in Extreme rock pulling past the 'port hole'. I tried it that way for several minutes before I discovered a much easier way for me to do that section.
Daniel Heath - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

At the porthole I felt there wasn't an obvious sequence. Lots of similar sized holds above and left.

I pulled left to small sidepulls before going up.

Be confident and relaxed, and it's a cool route.
paul__in_sheffield - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to CharlieMack: if you're interested in the pre-friends approach when all the gear placements were intact, there's film of Ron doing the first ascent on YouTube.
a lakeland climber on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

That's Lord of the Flies not Right Wall! Ron did the 2nd ascent of RW not the first. I don't think any of the placements on Right Wall have blown with the exception of one just below the porthole.

I got a hex #7 in the crozzly pocket - absolutely bomber.

ALC
jon on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

Ron did Lord, not Right Wall. Out of curiosity, have the RW gear placements suffered as much as those on Lord?
jon on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Ha!
CharlieMack - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

Cheers everyone, looking forward to it. Just need to wait a few days for a split to heal. Hope the weather holds! :D
Andy Nisbet - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

I climbed it in 1983 with Brian Davison (him leading). He fell off high up and broke his ankle on the girdle ledge. But he got it second go - the ankle wasn't diagnosed until the following week. Ouch, nothing like some pain to get you up a route.
GeoffRadcliffe - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
> (In reply to CharlieMack)
>
> I climbed it in 1983 with Brian Davison (him leading). He fell off high up and broke his ankle on the girdle ledge.

I often wondered about what would have happened if I had fallen off the moves around the port hole. Now I know. I did think that it would be better to jump outwards rather than just falling straight down.

Also, take a sling and krab for the moves well above the port hole when you are traversing back right. I did see one guy nearly come off those moves and his last gear was just a few feet above the girdle ledge. Fortunately he made it but only just!


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