/ Good Limestone Route - Peak

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PebblePusher - on 16 Jul 2013
Morning All,

It's my birthday on Saturday and I'm hoping to get out and climb a good, preferably multi pitch, limestone route in the Peak. The main one I have my eye on at the moment is The Thorn at Beeston tor but I thought it was worth asking for suggestions here first.

Anything up to HVS but not necessarily that hard, if it's a good route I don't mind what grade it is. Just looking for some fun in the sun!

Thanks
Chris
Calder - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher: Chee Tor Girdle.
PebblePusher - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Calder:

Good idea but that would scare the be-jesus out of my misses(who will be seconding) and p$ss off anyone else climbing in the area! Not quite the chilled out morning I was after!
Chris the Tall - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:
Original Route at High Tor is also HVS, or Debauchery if you can push it up to E1.

If doing the Thorn, you might want to consider swapping the middle pitch for Nocturne (VS) or Pocket Symphony (E1) - it's the top pitch of the Thorn that is spectacular.
Chris the Tall - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Chris the Tall:
OK, Debauchery is not a good suggestion with a nervous second !
PebblePusher - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Chris the Tall:

I've been eyeing up High Tor for a long time but again think it might be a bit too unnerving for my second! Do you have any idea what the VS route up the left hand corner is like? Skylight is it called?

Original Route looks immense though
Lukem6 - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher: I love golden Yardstick. one of my top 5 VS's
PebblePusher - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Lukem6: The one at Wildcat? Just had a look at a couple of the photos in the logbook. Looks great, goes on the list of possible's!

Thanks
Gordon Stainforth - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:

The other VS that is very good at Wildcat is Cataclysm.
jkarran - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:

> Original Route looks immense though

Original Route is rattly, that's pretty much all I remember of it.
jk
Chris the Tall - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:
Skylight - according to my logbook - "felt hard for the grade. The route was much better than I remember - spectacular positions"

Have to say I'd recommend Wildcat, more in that grade range, more shade. Golden Yardstick is a good call
Rog Wilko on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:
John Peel is a cracker and I think it's well protected for both.
There are lots of good two pitch routes in the VS grade at Wild Cat - my special favourite is Tiger Route One, but I know some folks don't agree.
Agree that High Tor might be a bit overwhelming for a nervous second.
Ravensdale has some good two pitch routes as well - Medusa is good but polished. Mealy Bugs I remember as a nice fairly unthreatening outing and Delusor (by the indirect start) is good too. You'd need to check on bird restrictions.
Hardonicus - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher: I would say Original Route (HVS) at High Tor, maybe with Highlight (in one long pitch) to warm up. Another good one is Conclusor (HVS) at Ravensdale, interesting climbing over all 42 m.

I thought Medusa at Ravensdale was not particularly fulfilling to be honest.
Offwidth - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Chris the Tall:

Have you led Debauchery?
PebblePusher - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:

So it looks like Wildcat is probably the best option considering my nervous second. I will get my Peak Lime book out when I get home and check it out properly. It looks to have plenty to go at at the grade range we are happy with.

If I'm feeling good is there an amenable E1 there? I've only ever led 2 E1's before and they were both on grit so I don't want to end up too far out of my depth!

Thanks for all the replies.
Chris
GrahamD - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:

Pocket sympony on Beeston is amenable at E1 but Beeston could be an oven at the moment.
cem on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:

You would fry at Beeston: wait until it's significantly cooler
Simon Caldwell - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:
Snakes Alive (VS) in Dovedale. Only one pitch, but you've got the added excitement of getting to the route (though the water levels are low so could be a bit too easy).

Not sure about "fun in the sun" if it's as hot as forecast - sunny limestone could get too hot to touch!
Chris Harris - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:

Plenty of decent middle grade stuff at Willersley. What's the form with access these days?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=127

Chris the Tall - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to Chris the Tall)
>
> Have you led Debauchery?

Led 1st pitch, seconded the second.

There was even a picture of me in Climber on it ! Taken by John Horscroft, with the sort of lens usually reserved for the paparazzi.

Why do you ask ?
ads.ukclimbing.com
Al Evans on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Chris the Tall: If we are pushing it to E1 I'm surprised nobody has mentioned Sirplum in Chee Dale, one of the great Peak Limestone Routes (do my Plumb Line Finish for extra value)
lowersharpnose - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:

FWIW, The Thorn has an airy, steep crux. Good route.
Compo - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:Gabriel and the Pearly Gates at Stoney. Excellent ledge to belay from between pitches, which is good for a nervous second. The Thorn is excellent though if a little pumpy for the weak.
victim of mathematics - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Toreador:
> (In reply to PebblePusher)
> Snakes Alive (VS) in Dovedale. Only one pitch, but you've got the added excitement of getting to the route (though the water levels are low so could be a bit too easy).

That's a cracking route. And Tissington is only over the river if you want a bit more fun. John Peel's a bit traversey, but not too bad. Am I right in thinking that somebody put in something proper to abseil off a while back, so you don't have to use that terrifying dead tree any more?
Dan Lane - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> (In reply to Toreador)
> [...]
>
> Am I right in thinking that somebody put in something proper to abseil off a while back, so you don't have to use that terrifying dead tree any more?

Sort of...if you get to the dead tree then carry on upwards for about 3 metres there is a smaller (still alive) tree. I put some good tat on that and it's equalised to 2 wires too. A slightly uncomfortable belay but at least it's solid!

robw007 - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to PebblePusher:

Sirplum may be a little pushy for the second - if they came flying off youd be in epic territory.

Evasor and Aurora Arete are excellent multi pitch routes at Stoney.

Skylight is mega polished at HTor.

What about the two pitch VS and HVS routes at Ravensdale - Mealy Bugs and Mealystopholes etc?

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