/ Good Limestone Route - Peak
It's my birthday on Saturday and I'm hoping to get out and climb a good, preferably multi pitch, limestone route in the Peak. The main one I have my eye on at the moment is The Thorn at Beeston tor but I thought it was worth asking for suggestions here first.
Anything up to HVS but not necessarily that hard, if it's a good route I don't mind what grade it is. Just looking for some fun in the sun!
Good idea but that would scare the be-jesus out of my misses(who will be seconding) and p$ss off anyone else climbing in the area! Not quite the chilled out morning I was after!
Original Route at High Tor is also HVS, or Debauchery if you can push it up to E1.
If doing the Thorn, you might want to consider swapping the middle pitch for Nocturne (VS) or Pocket Symphony (E1) - it's the top pitch of the Thorn that is spectacular.
OK, Debauchery is not a good suggestion with a nervous second !
I've been eyeing up High Tor for a long time but again think it might be a bit too unnerving for my second! Do you have any idea what the VS route up the left hand corner is like? Skylight is it called?
Original Route looks immense though
The other VS that is very good at Wildcat is Cataclysm.
Original Route is rattly, that's pretty much all I remember of it.
Skylight - according to my logbook - "felt hard for the grade. The route was much better than I remember - spectacular positions"
Have to say I'd recommend Wildcat, more in that grade range, more shade. Golden Yardstick is a good call
John Peel is a cracker and I think it's well protected for both.
There are lots of good two pitch routes in the VS grade at Wild Cat - my special favourite is Tiger Route One, but I know some folks don't agree.
Agree that High Tor might be a bit overwhelming for a nervous second.
Ravensdale has some good two pitch routes as well - Medusa is good but polished. Mealy Bugs I remember as a nice fairly unthreatening outing and Delusor (by the indirect start) is good too. You'd need to check on bird restrictions.
I thought Medusa at Ravensdale was not particularly fulfilling to be honest.
Have you led Debauchery?
So it looks like Wildcat is probably the best option considering my nervous second. I will get my Peak Lime book out when I get home and check it out properly. It looks to have plenty to go at at the grade range we are happy with.
If I'm feeling good is there an amenable E1 there? I've only ever led 2 E1's before and they were both on grit so I don't want to end up too far out of my depth!
Thanks for all the replies.
Pocket sympony on Beeston is amenable at E1 but Beeston could be an oven at the moment.
You would fry at Beeston: wait until it's significantly cooler
Snakes Alive (VS) in Dovedale. Only one pitch, but you've got the added excitement of getting to the route (though the water levels are low so could be a bit too easy).
Not sure about "fun in the sun" if it's as hot as forecast - sunny limestone could get too hot to touch!
> Have you led Debauchery?
Led 1st pitch, seconded the second.
There was even a picture of me in Climber on it ! Taken by John Horscroft, with the sort of lens usually reserved for the paparazzi.
Why do you ask ?
FWIW, The Thorn has an airy, steep crux. Good route.
> Snakes Alive (VS) in Dovedale. Only one pitch, but you've got the added excitement of getting to the route (though the water levels are low so could be a bit too easy).
That's a cracking route. And Tissington is only over the river if you want a bit more fun. John Peel's a bit traversey, but not too bad. Am I right in thinking that somebody put in something proper to abseil off a while back, so you don't have to use that terrifying dead tree any more?
> Am I right in thinking that somebody put in something proper to abseil off a while back, so you don't have to use that terrifying dead tree any more?
Sort of...if you get to the dead tree then carry on upwards for about 3 metres there is a smaller (still alive) tree. I put some good tat on that and it's equalised to 2 wires too. A slightly uncomfortable belay but at least it's solid!
Sirplum may be a little pushy for the second - if they came flying off youd be in epic territory.
Evasor and Aurora Arete are excellent multi pitch routes at Stoney.
Skylight is mega polished at HTor.
What about the two pitch VS and HVS routes at Ravensdale - Mealy Bugs and Mealystopholes etc?
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