/ North Wales Mountaineering Days.

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Malt_Loaf - on 16 Jul 2013
Hi,

I have two months in North Wales and really keen to tick off the best mountaineering days on offer. I've done a fair amount of the scrambles/mountaineering routes in the area but I'm sure there's loads I'm missing! Being new to the site my logbook has not yet been filled out with the stuff I've done before I joined the site so please feel free to suggest away..

Sunday I'll be heading up something on Idwal Slabs area- probably one of the scrambles because I've done all the main routes, up cneifion arete and then up Dolmen Ridge. These are the types of days I enjoy, long big-boot mountaineering days, the more remote, the better.

Thanks in advance.
ML.
AlanLittle - on 16 Jul 2013
Malt_Loaf - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to AlanLittle: I didn't say Idwal Slabs was remote, you're quoting two parts of my post that weren't in any way connected. I was giving an example of the big-boot mountaineering days that I like and added that the more remote they were, the better.

Thanks for the link.
ML.
chiz - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf: Not remote by any means, but maybe less travelled:
Not got guide to hand but a lot of the climbs on the west face of Tryfan are good, in a rambling way, and very quiet, some are on the borders between scrambling and climbing. Notch Arete is a truly excellent way of continuing these.
East face of Bristly Ridge has good stuff too at low grades, up to about 100m long which surprised me.
Central Arete on Glyder Fawr as a way of finishing a link up on the Slabs.
The aretes to the left of Cneifon Arete look worth a look but not tried them yet.
Arete Route on Tryfan East Face is excellent and overlooked (couple of quite stiff sections).
Gambit Climb/Reade's Route are a long way off, but will take you to the crowds.
Atlantic Wall/the routes I have done on the Filiast slabs were good.
Lliwedd on any day other than last Saturday will probably be fairly quiet, Horned Crag is excellent, as is Slanting Buttress Ridge Route, didn't get on Avalanche and was reported to be intermittant and grassy -suggestion was for Sword and another route to get to the Red Wall.
Cadair Idris north side might be a good bet in this weather if it holds? Away from Cwfry Arete/Table Direct etc.
HTH
chiz
davidbeynon - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:

Clogwyn y Pearson arete is a good one. Spits you out into a very unremote area, but it is rare to see people on the route itself. Same goes for Bilberry Terrace, although I would absolutely take a 60m rope, a partner and some gear for that one!

Another crag with worthwhile routes and few people is Craig Lloer on Carnedd Dafydd, although they are well into climbing territory.

Heading south a bit to the Rhinogs, Arans and Cadair Idris is a good way to avoid crowds. The Meirionydd guidebook is your friend! I'm looking into some routes in the Berwyns at the moment, but haven't climbed there yet.
Malt_Loaf - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to chiz: Thanks Chiz,

Not done anything on the West Face of Tryfan so I'll give that a look; done a lot on the East Face and enjoyed the climbing up there. Some excellent suggestions; most of which I've not heard of- like you say, probably less traveled lines- these can often be hidden gems, though! Definitely keen on routes on filliest!

I've always enjoyed outings on Lliwedd, I enjoyed Horned Crag and Slanting Buttress ridge route but haven't got on Avalanche yet either. I've done cyfrew arete on cadair and thought that was an excellent outing, we did it Alpine style in the rain.

Thanks again.
ML.
Malt_Loaf - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon: Thanks, David.

Clogwyn Y Parson arete will definitely get done before I go. Bilberry Terrace has been on the list for a while, also.

I don't mind heading into climbing territory, as long as they still have that big mountain feel.

I have the Meirionydd guidebook so i'll have a good look through that, definitely a more remote area!

Quite keen on doing Outside Edge Route as well.

ML.
chiz - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf: Quite a few mates have said that Avalanche was scrappy, but it looked like there was serious congestion so that would affect perceptions as my friends were stuck in queues. They said Longlands was good though.
Do check out the West Face, here's some really good stuff there, agree with another thread re unroped scrambling Wrinkled Tower, its a bit out there, and feels away from it all, until you rejoin the North Ridge (via Notch Arete).
davidbeynon - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:

If you want an ultra draditional vegetated horror there's always the Pencoed Pillar on Cadair Idris. I did it on sunday. It was good type 2 fun!
Malt_Loaf - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to chiz: Wrinkled Tower does seem a nice route and out of the way of crowds- this'll be on the list, I think!

In reply to DavidBeynon:

That looks like a truly esoteric adventure does that!!

ML
davidbeynon - on 16 Jul 2013
CurlyStevo - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to davidbeynon:
"Clogwyn y Pearson arete is a good one."

I rate this scramble with the nose start as one of the best scrambles of its grade in the UK, I can't think of a better grade III/Mod scramble on main land britain.
CurlyStevo - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:
if your looking for a good scrambley day out you can start on tryfan bach, then up to a scramble on tryfan east face, followed by bristley ridge and up to the top of as many of the large hills as you like around there.
Malt_Loaf - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: Definitely will be doing Clogwyn Y Person arete. I've done the tryfan bach/east face/bristly ridge days numerous times; fantastic days every time!

ML.
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Simon Caldwell - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> I rate this scramble with the nose start as one of the best scrambles of its grade in the UK, I can't think of a better grade III/Mod scramble on main land britain

I agree, provided you exclude Scotland :-)

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