/ XX Ben Nevis

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Liam Brown - on 16 Jul 2013
In issue 73 of Climb, Dave MacLeod mentions a route called XX put up by Blair Fyffe on the Comb, on Ben Nevis, as a 200m E3. However, I can't find record of it anywhere, although there is a relatively recent E3 there put up by Tony Stone and Blair Fyffe called Mumbles. However, this doesn't sound right.

My search for information is somewhat hindered by not having the SMC guidebook to hand. It may be there. This would solve the issue.

Otherwise can anyone point me in the direction of a description or shed some light?
smally - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Liam Brown: Mumbles is the only route Blair and Tony have done on the Comb so it's the one you are looking for. The description will not be in the current SMC Ben Nevis guide but in the appropriate SMCJ Journal in the new routes section. Don't know offhand which journal to check. Alternately search for Mumbles on the SMC website, should be in the new route database, open to all !
Liam Brown - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to smally:

Perfect. 2010 I think. Thanks very much.
Andy Nisbet - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to Liam Brown:

The Comb:
Mumbles 80m E3 *. Tony Stone, Blair Fyffe. 30 Jun 2010.
This route climbs the left arete of The Comb via a fine hanging groove on the second pitch. The rock is generally clean and solid.
1. 45m 5b Start on the diagonal fault line of Pigottís Route just to the left of a large compact brown slab. Pull into and climb a short left-slanting groove, then pull over a bulge on to a ledge. Step up and right and climb the arete (this is the left arete of the brown slab) on some great rock, until able to step left into a larger groove. Climb boldly up this and continue more easily to the ledge of Donít Die of Ignorance.
2. 35m 5c Walk right along the ledge to where Donít Die gets hard. Climb the wall above (crux) to a small inset groove in the arete. Pull round the arete, and continue up into an inset groove. Climb this and the arete past a roof to a fine belay perch on the arete.
Continue up much easier and slightly loose ground, or make one abseil (abseil point left in situ) to the ledge and scramble down.

Tony Stone on 25 Jul 2013
In reply to Liam Brown:

Hey Liam,

I believe the only route Blair has done on the Comb (in Summer) was with me when I did Mumbles. Andy has posted the description but, as smally mentions, that and all other (submitted) new route descriptions are available at http://www.smc.org.uk/new-routes

The 200m length (in Dave's mention of it) is probably an approximate measure including all the scrambling to the top of the Comb (which I did and reversed just to make it legit), but I definitely wouldn't bother with that.

I didn't give Mumbles any stars, in fact it's named Mumbles because of my moaning about having walked past Carn Dearg Buttress to do it. It would make an excellent VS but for two moves. Rock is brilliant up there, you might do better exploring other lines... or exhausting all the excellent routes on Carn Dearg first.

Cheers,
Tony
aln - on 25 Jul 2013
In reply to Tony Stone: I remember years ago when Dave MacLeod did that E8 thereabouts he told me there was loads of clean rock there at all grades for new routing. Still haven't got there :(
Liam Brown - on 26 Jul 2013
In reply to Tony Stone:

I think you're right Tony. I happened to have just read the article and was intrigued as I was about to head up. It sounds less interesting from your description. Given the weekend I had I agree, Carn Dearg is fantastic.
aln - on 26 Jul 2013
In reply to Tony Stone: Did you used to climb at Hadrian's Wall in Falkirk?
Joak - on 26 Jul 2013
In reply to aln:
> (In reply to Tony Stone) Did you used to climb at Hadrian's Wall in Falkirk?

Despite the lighting being a wee bit dingy and belaying the stiff as steel top ropes through your figure of 8 descender requiring as much effort as climbing the routes it was still a sad day when Hadrian's closed down.
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aln - on 26 Jul 2013
In reply to Joak:
> (In reply to aln)
> [...]
>
> Despite the lighting being a wee bit dingy and belaying the stiff as steel top ropes through your figure of 8 descender requiring as much effort as climbing the routes it was still a sad day when Hadrian's closed down.

Ha ha. I think everyone had a go at its many faults, but as you say, a sad day when it closed. A big plus was the fact that it was run by genuine enthusiasts. It had a lot of potential that the new owner of the building couldn't see.

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