/ hard slabs in Font
so I have broken my wrist but got a trip to font booked. I will just be out of plaster by the time that I go, so instead of my projects that I had In mind I was wondering if you knew of any slabs in font that are hard, we are stay at le musarde campsite so 95.2 and gorge aux chat will be the main ones but happy to travel about for stuff. any suggestions above 6C would be ace thanks
I really enjoyed La Défroquée at Cuvier. f6C+, but felt miles easier than Live on Mars f6B at Isatis and Science Friction Direct f6B at Apremont - this last one was in about 40 degrees Celsius though.
Live on Mars is brilliant!
If you have the 7 & 8s guide you can check out all the slab problems by looking across at the "style column" next to the problems i.e. Roof, Slab, Wall etc. most of the stand out ones also have a * next to them e.g. La Super Prestat *, Duel *.
> If you have the 7 & 8s guide
Just be warned, the 7+8 doesn't cover the Trois Pignons area which it sounds like you'll be close to. It is a good guidebook though (well the 5+6 is anyway, which is more within my ability.)
Le science friction
My guide gave Science Friction 5+, which I thought was stingy to say the least.
> Just be warned, the 7+8 doesn't cover the Trois Pignons area which it sounds like you'll be close to.
7+8's most definitely covers les trois pignon.
Will second Tom, La Défroquée was quite nice
At Isatis - Caresse (La Marbrée direct), this goes at 7a+, harder for a shortass? - http://bleau.info/isatis/567.html
The beta? from bleau doesn't make it any easier, just saves you about 40 minutes of trying to go direct for the top (and falling in the process) and wondering why it looks so dirty until some helpful soul points out the exit for you to the right
I fancy a go on Duel that looks good. science friction sounds like a typical font sandbag so ill definitely try that
> My guide gave Science Friction 5+, which I thought was stingy to say the least.
Seriously? My guide says 7a, others say 6c+... has it been badly chipped because 6c+ seemed about right when I did it
Which guide is that? It always used to be 5+ but I thought it had gone up to 6a recently. 7a sounds a bit off....
Now questioning my sanity/memory....
Guide says 6b - Fontainebleau Bouldering "off-Piste" (2006)
<checks other guide>
Guide Says 5b - Fontainebleau Climbs (The purple one) (1999)
Bleau.info says 6a
Ah well, anyway it's a good slab problem
Be warned, the rule of thumb is that slabs are nails in font. You wouldn't be the first 7a boulderer to suffer from a crisis of confidence after a long day shredding fingernails on a 5+ sandbag slab in font. The locals have long since mastered this style of climbing and understand the friction so much better than visitors.
SF has been on my ticklist for 3 trips to Font* - I always had it in my mind it was a definitive Font 6a... Who the flop chipped it?! Was it the same nutter who chipped lots of other stuff?
*Have yet to attempt it, have got other 6a slabs though.
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