/ UKC Fit Club Week 335
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (334) thread:
Nick Russell - Well done on the E3
Eagle River - Have you joined the Ashes send train yet?
Ali - Hope it's all come together this week?
PPG - YAY!!!! WELL DONE ON MESCALITO!!!
mbh - Well done on the BGR attempt
mrchewey - Surely working for yourself means you can take time off to climb? Did you have a nice time in the Peak?
Exile - That's a good Pembroke tick list there! Congrats.
useful - How did the ML training go?
Sankey - How's Toronto?
AJM - Well done on the Ashes
annak - Excellent news about the HVSes, such a milestone. Well done.
IainRUK - Lots of great miles there.
maria85 - Hope the asthma is getting better. Well done on the jamming.
Luke Owens - 7b+ Awesome mate!!! Grats.
NMN - Sorry to see you go. Hope the ankle is better soon.
Chestwig - Heel better? Solid week there.
Nomics4sale - How is Ground Effect going?
Garrouli - Good rest week?
biscuit - Transfering the Spanish stamina to UK routes I hope.
Needkraken - Hope you're feeling better soon. Band? Links?
Curious Yellow - Keep up the good work on the 7bs, they'll go soon I'm sure.
grubes - Love the font alternative plan! You got to climb at Almscliff, so it's not bad.
JimmyKay - Glad to see you loved the Gower. It's great to see people enjoying the area that I climb in a lot. Yeah, basically Pembroke is where it's at. Oddly enough locals don't travel down there as much as you might think. Well done on the E4 and E5.
stevemarkperry - How's the weight loss going?
leon - Stop slacking!
Kevster - Excellent week there. Well done on Hoy.
I've got an ultra next weekend and I'm on holiday a large chunk of September, so mbh will be doing fitclub from the August BH weekend to the end of September.
Posting now as I'm in Pembroke tomorrow.
Hey Matt, have a great time in Pembroke! I figured I'd post again this week as I got a lot done on my week's trip with AJM and am going to try to get back to the training this week, even if the DIY isn't yet all done!
Goals for 2013:
Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E2s, 3 E3s) (excluding snowballing!)
Peak lime: 10 E2s, 5 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 6 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 2 E3s)
Sport: 2 7b+s (so far - Brachiation Dance 7b+, also Tin Of, Sticky Wicket and Ground Effect 7b)
I am struggling at the moment with what routes I want to do next and therefore with really getting the psyche going. This is because I got really psyched for mountain trad routes earlier in the summer and then for Cry of despair, each of which then got wet before I could get stuck in. I'll have a think about what I want to do most and then maybe re-post some new/additional goals.
So, week off work climbing with Andy went roughly like this:
last S: half day at Cheedale. Did The Max Works (tough 6c+) 1st RP and tried Hungry Eyes (7a+) but fell off the last hard move on 1st rp, groan, and didn't have time for another go (Embankment is somewhere I'll find myself again soon anyway).
M: Raven Tor. Finally did Tin Of (7b) - cheers to Andy for finding some new right foot micro-beta which really helped at the crux. Really relieved to finally do this - it's very much my anti-style (really polished feet throughout, and the crux section, and more climbing at the top when pumped, is all on minging crimps). It took me about 6-7 RPs in total I think. Felt much harder to me than Brachiation Dance. In the evening, went back to Cheedale to try Hungry Eyes again. Felt strong on it but the top wall was wet so came off in the same place.
T: drove up in the campervan and went to Kilnsey. Did Directissima (6c) and spent the rest of the day shouting at Andy to just make his clip, and trying Sticky Wicket. Thought this was quite tough for the grade but much more my style than Tin Of with burly moves on reasonable holds. First rp I fell off going in to the very last back-hand / layback hold at the top with my right hand. 2nd rp I didnt rest long enough and fell off a move before on the crimps, then 3rd rp I repeated my high point. A shame not to tick it, as it would have been the hardest route I'd done in a single session, especially 1st rp.
W: Malham trad. Led Sundance Wall and Midnight Cowboy up on the Terrace, and seconded Andy on Junkyard Angel. Midnight Cowboy is just amazing - everyone should do that route. I'm always amazed at the quality of the trad at Malham given how in-extensive it is - I'd put Carnage Left-Hand, Wombat and Midnight Cowboy all in the top 5 routes I've done at their respective grades in the country. In the evening we went back to Kilnsey to finish off Sticky Wicket, and it went first go putting the clips in. Felt way stronger than the day before - think the trad had done a good job of warming me up without really getting my arms tired. A great day.
T: Kilnsey again. Had a go on 50 for 5, but found it a big step up from SW and quickly realised it wasn't going to go in a session, and since I've no idea when I'll next be back up there, decided to try something else. (FWIW I thought it was probably worth 7b+ even up to the start of the last sequence from the heel hook...which is at least V4 in its own right?) Then got on Ground Effect with Rachel who also posts on here, as it dried up in the afternoon. First rp I didn't have the sequence properly wired, and managed to get through past the hard climbing, but was totally boxed and fell off on easier ground above the 5th bolt. Second rp I got it done, although was totally running on gas by the top, on what should have been easy recovery ground - 5 days on was catching up at this point. Really pleased to do this as well - first 7b in a single session I think.
F: drove off west to LPT. It was mega hot and I felt half asleep, which I think probably contributed (along with sloping holds) to me getting flash pumped and falling off the top of the 6c warm-up (can't remember the name, but it was the one on the left hand side - really good little route). We then got on Nightglue, the classic 7a+, which went reasonably straightforwardly, and was also really good.
S-S: rest at home.
So overall ticklist for the week was 1x 6c, 1 x 6c+, 1 x 7a+, 3 x 7b, 1 x E2, 1 x E3. Really good trip - thanks to Andy M for the luxurious van accommodation, and it was also cool to meet other Andy and Rachel. Thanks for all the beta on GE Rachel! :)
Thinking about the goals, the main problem at the moment is that most of my climbing until it gets cold is / will be on peak limestone. There are no E2s left on peak lime that I'm really bothered about doing (I've already done the classics), I've already met my E3 goal, and virtually my sport goals. I'm still keeping the grit and 'elsewhere' goals for when I get away or and it gets colder, but for limestone season I think I need to give myself some harder sport climbing goals to work towards and train for.
It would be good to fill out more of a supporting 7c+ pyramid with a view to doing one next year. So far I have 8x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c. So I need 2x7b+ and 1x7c. I've come up with a couple of options for classic 7b+ and 7cs on the same crag that I could definitely get myself motivated for - can anyone who has done these give any advice?
1) Indecent Exposure and Body Machine
2) The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag and Celebration
As previously noted I'm not a big fan of minging crimps and suspect they might be involved on all these routes? Do any have particularly desperate / heart-breaking cruxes, and are any slow to dry (apart from the bottom sections of the Raven Tor ones, which I'll ignore)?
On the off chance that Cheedale Cornice dries up, I'll probably end up back on Cry of Despair too.
> Posting now as I'm in Pembroke tomorrow.
Cheers Matt, and best of luck with Pembroke!
- Try more E4s
- Ames Low
- Right Hand Man
<MTG> - 2013
- Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 9/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 2/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
- 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route) - done The Ashes
- Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s <So far: 8xE3 onsight, 2xE3 flash, 3xE4 onsight>
- Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
- "real" V6/7 (power not power-stamina)
- Low Blow, ~25 move boulder link extending Ames Low
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
- E4 onsight - ticked 3
- 8a before 30
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoints
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
Well, since the cat got out off the bag last week, this is going to be a bit less of a surprise than otherwise but here's my week...
M: Raven Tor. 3 trips up Tin Of 7b - one dogging go, one where I fell at the crux and managed to massively refine the sequence, a third go where I felt like I was sort of flash pumping and so didnt recover enough at the rest and lobbed off about 2 moves from the chains. Didn't get back on it as the undercut pocket move was making my elbow tweaky. Once I got use to the polish it was a nice enough route, apparently I'm told many consider it 7b+ but given I felt a bit narked to have not got it third go I wouldn't personally be in that camp I don't think. One to go back for perhaps, plus look at indecent or body machine.
- Clips in the Ashes to warm up. Spent a load of time trying to improve the sequence around the boss. Got a few little tweaks.
- First redpoint I got up to the boss, got the new sequence in there, got matched on it, couldn't get stable, grabbed draw.
- By this point I wasn't really sure what to do. Once you've fallen off the same move more than a few times on redpoint you've got to start considering other options. And by that point I had taken the ride from being matched on the boss, or otherwise failed to clip, about a half dozen times. So I started to scratch around for other ideas. I thought about clipping from lower but ruled it out. I thought about clipping the dogging bolt and skipping the one on the boss, and ruled that out too. I realised that I could just about clip reaching left from the break, so did have a think about that - wild ride if you blow the moves to the break but doable.
- Getting me down a bit, the mental pressure and all that. Went for a stroll around the crag. Had a chat with Steve Crowe who seemed to have had much the same experience with that clip. Decided to give it one more go clipping off the boss and after that try going to the break.
- Got on it again. Got determined. Wasn't going to be the person who wasn't good enough to clip the clip in the same place everyone else did :) One more go before admitting maybe I was that person after all.
- Got to the boss, rocked weight as far onto the crimp as possible, and somehow managed to slam the rope in. Got into the moves to the ear on autopilot, just about held it, went for the break, just about got that, ploughed onto the top! Boom!
- As biscuit said last week, I basically ground it down in the end. Felt slightly despairing after the penultimate go, night always darkest before the dawn and all that. You know on paper it should go but just kept getting frustrated in the same place time and time again and you wonder whether the paper calcs stack up as well as you think they do.
- <irony>Still, sport is basically just gymnastics right, its trad that's the mental game...!<irony/>
- Very chuffed but also quite relieved, mental pressure was starting to ratchet and whilst I'm very fortunate that my other half is immensely tolerant of my prolonged absences there's only so much time I can spend on the other side of the country from home falling off the same move over and over!
W: Malham in the day. Seconded an E2, somehow missed half the holds, ended up pulling desperate moves and nearly falling off! Seconded an E3 which was really nice. Led an HVS, felt like I was climbing like a spanner (too many new moves to think about ;) so didn't do anything harder. Would like to go back for some of the other classics.
In the evening we went to Kilnsey, tried to flash Sticky Wicket 7b, came off just after the jug by clip 4. Worked sequence, didn't like the small footholds out left so went with the long powerful reach straight over which I believe is Steves beta? Tried that, fell off again after that section as I'd underworked the footholds, very British redpoint of me!
T: Kilnsey. Warmed up. Clips in Sticky Wicket. Worked on the beta, never happy having to try and lay down so much power unless I'm really sure I have to, and came up with a very nice sneaky way round the move from jug to right hand pinchy sidepull that cut the difficulty massively. Ticked it next go. Loafed about for the rest of the day.
F: LPT. First visit. Nice crag, glorious sunshine. Onsighted the classic 6c to warm up. Had an onsight burn on Night Glue 7a+, fell off a few moves shy of the hand rail, just took too long to work out which height to traverse. Dogged to the top. Ticked it next go. We were all about out of juice by them! Saw a guy on Statement of Youth which has definitely reconfirmed its position on my "one day" list, looks brilliant.
S: Rest! Boozy lunch with friends and then somehow ended up at a BBQ in the evening too!
S: I'm not sure yet. I slept spectacularly badly (I considered starting writing this at about 0545 when I sort of accepted that sleep was going to elude me) so probably going to chill rather than pop to Huntsham this morning. And this afternoon I've got some serious box lifting pencilled in helping with house moving.
So yeah, ticked an awesome route, got my holiday tick goal (and at the higher end of the range too), got one of the big remaining holes in my pyramid filled, and ticked a few other bits and bobs too.
I was also pretty pleased with my beta searching on the routes too, Steve etc seem to have harvested some useful bits from my Ashes sequence, Si crushed Tin Of with my refined foot beta in the crux, and I found a lovely drop knee to ease myself through Sticky Wicket without having to pull as hard (if anyone wants more detail, you have right hand on the jug by bolt 4, left on the obvious sidepull, left foot on one of the obvious big footholds underneath it (I had the leftmost I think), and get into a tight drop knee with your right foot on the big sidepull you use to rock over to the jug in the first place. Locks you in very nicely and you already have a high foot once you get the sidepull so standing into it is easier as you just need to unwind).
Moving boxes start of the week, then some local stuff midweek, hopefully on both remaining projects if all goes well, then not sure about the weekend yet.
Thanks Matt. Enjoy Pembroke!
M - 10.1 miles, swim
T - 9.1 miles
W - 8.2 miles
T - 6 miles
F - 4 miles
S - Roseland August Trail, 32 miles of Cornish coastpath, my first Ultra!
S - 4.4 miles
Yesterday I was 20th out of 108, 15th male out of 78, 5:58, where the winning time was 5:02, or something. Really pleased with this and quite surprised that that time put me so far up he field. If I can knock 20 minutes off that I'll be in the top ten. I could feel the training both hindering me, because I've done a lot lately and felt tired from the start, but helping enormously in giving me the mental reserves and the legs to keep going instead of just giving up.
This being only my second event in 29 years, I gazed like an innocent at the scene of runners around me. Strange, pop-sock like things seem to be in fashion, and trail shoes can be any colour, it seems, so long as it's hideous. I must get some. I did the whole slippery thing in my road shoes.
Thanks Matt, it's not so much the E3 as that in combination with the tech 6a that I'm pleased about. And it was a great route, the third of the 3 GO Wall 'K' routes for me!
This week hasn't been spectacular for me, but still good and pretty enjoyable. Two good swims make up for much of the lack of aerobic workout while I'm not running. I've come to realise that one of the most important things I learnt from many years of competitive swimming is how to train hard. Also climbed another awesome route in the gorge, climbed at a new venue... The only thing lacking was the discipline for any core/fingerboard work. I need to get back on that.
I learnt that taking kids climbing for the first time is hard work but rewarding, and that I need to drop my lead grade a bit on grit! (until I have a bit more mileage, anyway)
M - swimming
T - pottering in the gorge with Emily: Dawn Walk (avoiding the wasp nest!) and Bob's Climb
W - rest. I realised from last week's thread that I'd only had 3 real rest days in the past 4 weeks so decided it would probably be beneficial. Baked another cake (maybe I shouldn't get into that habit!)
T - swimming
F - climbing in Avon Gorge. Ladder of Desire (E3) onsight! (a bit naughty, I know, but so so far away from the rockfall...)
S - climbing at Almscliff. We introduced Emily's cousins (11 and 9) to the sport, they followed us up a couple of easy routes. Then did Overhanging Groove (VS+) and had a go at Western Front (E3)
S - vaguely intended to go back to Almscliff but woke up with very sore shoulders. Not sure if this was from hauling kids up (some tension had been required...) or my fight with Western Front, but went for a walk instead.
Short term plan (~1 month)
Running: Start again, prepare for Bristol Half.
Climbing: Get back onto the core/fingerboard sessions. More local climbing while the weather is good!
Medium term goals (end of 2013)
Running: Snowdonia marathon in October
Trad: Consolidate E3, it's pretty on/off for me at the moment, get on a few E4s but only if I'm feeling good.
Sport: Try to do some... difficult without a car. 7a/+ onsight and 7b redpoint would be nice
Longer term goals (probably not this season)
Some inspiring routes... Paradise Lost, Cheddar; The Axe, Cloggy
Running: More endurance events, try some fell running
M: 15 mins on static bike
T: 15 mins on static bike
F: Flight back to UK
S: Road bike 15 miles, 1600 feet
STG: More 7a's (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): One more done: this years RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (3)
MTG: 7a+ Appetite/Direct Flight/Sidekick/Gilbert Cardigan
LTG: 7b WYSWIG - started working
this week . .
sunday. . boulderin at the wall. 40 mins of being pumped just rainbow traversing. turbo in gym
monday. . int bike trainin in gym. core then weights inc pull ups
tues.. malham. main event was a double scoop ice cream in the village as just messed about ob raindogs. it won't be my next project. don't think it plays ti my strengths right
now. pm hilly road ride on bike thru thr trough of bowland and cross greet
wed.. a.m turbo trainer in garage and then core. pm bouldering indoors for forty mins to try and maintain endurance i've gained. . well its more like power endurance. . but the wall's rubbish for working power endurance
thurs. . run up ingleborough then turbo trainer in garage
fri.. robin proctor..easier routes.6b to 7a+
sat. .int bike training on bike at the gym, core then weights inc 8 sets of 20 reps of wide and narrow grip pull ups
sunday. . today. . hilly bike ride followed by bouldering at wall for forty mins
plans for this week . .tomorroe road ride am pm malham hopefully on baboo baboo with s
someone who's been in it before so might find beta for new dawn start and baboo crux h
also this week talk to folk who set routes at the wall to see if they'll set up power
i'm on leave until early september so hoping for some nice weather.
tues. . possibly do a load of the mountain passes on the bikes with sarah
another session at malham and a session somewhere like giggleswick. . to earn some brownie points with sarah
Thanks, not bad for a family holiday! Hope you have a good Pembroke trip yourself.
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - not yet, may wait until the Autumn
Onsight a few E3s
M: 1hr at wall PE traverses & core. 45min road run.
T: Fell off my MTB while pratting about with the kids in Trowbarrow, soar back so 2hrs climbing in the evening - seconded mate up Gazzibo Direct (HVS) at Castle Rock.
W: Easy MTB with the family around the Blue with bits or the Red and the Hope Line at Gisburn.
T: 1.5hrs PE traverses at the wall and core. Really soar back in afternoon, (possibly situps?) Lots of pain killers needed!
F, S & S: Back rehab. Feeling ok now so going to try a gentle session tomorrow.
Aim for coming week: Prob' going to struggle for partners this week and not going to want to fall off boulder problems until my back is properly sorted so probably just aim to get some quality training sessions in.
A much better week this week with 5 bouldering sessions, making the most of it during a quiet work period. Weight is now back down to 143lbs so give or take a pack of crisps I'm near as dammit to my goal of 142lbs. Goal now is to maintain around this level.
Get weight back down to around 142 lbs: Currently 143
The Undercut (Churnet, 6C+/7A)
Old Sloper Problem (Churnet, 7A)
Alternative 3 SS (Churnet, pretty high roof finish, 6C)
M: A good session on both The Undercut and Old Sloper Problem. The Undercut was so close until it put a hole in my finger. Sussed a critical move on Old Sloper Problem which I'm hoping will unlock success.
W: Another great session on The Undercut. Frustratingly close on this, spent over an hour and a half inches from the last move. Other stuff done, too.
F: A good session at Wright's Rock, a few more goes on The Undercut but my skin was too sore for the moves. Did Niche Trav 6B+/C instead.
S: An hour at Pine Block, did a steep 6A+ that I have never been able to complete before, found new inside flag move!
S: Quick session at Ousal Dale repeating some old easier problems. More of a warm down from the week. Nice to be out.
I feel feeble again ;)
I assume you have the key right foot/leg beta for the old sloper problem? It makes it easy for the grade - certainly easier for me than the undercut. If not let me know and i can dish it out...
SidH/AJM - sounds like a great trip. And congrats on The Ashes Andy :-)
Boring week for me, I can't be bothered to type it out! 4x boulder sessions, 3 good 1 poor. Not enough power endurance stuff - motivation waning, need to get on top of that this week.
A very interesting week for my head game. After completely astonishing myself last weekend by leading my first HVSs (something I thought I was a long way from) I got to wondering whether I am actually capable of more than I've been aiming for.
In the spirit of this I attacked my sessions with renewed vigour, and managed to do a new PB in my benchpress, and got up my first V3. Huzzah!
This week: keep trying harder!
M: cycle 20 miles
Tu: cycle 10 miles, excellent bouldering session, gym (squats, benchpress)
W: cycle 12 miles, run 6.7 miles/56:42.
Th: cycle 5 miles
F: bouldering - first V3!. gym (deadlifts, benchpress)
S: nothing - on a hen do :)
It's been ages - would be great to catch you guys before you go to Kaly/we go on van trip. going to be around London on and likely also around the weekend after the bank holiday, any good?
Should have raced today but feeling jaded. 5 races in 6 weeks so have been racing too much so just did an easy weekend after a hard friday night run.
m: easy 2 mile recovery
t: 12.5 mile road run just sub 7..
w: abendlauf.. charity non competitive race thing.. did 2 x 2.5km loops as a tempo session. 11 miles in total.
t: lunch: 4.5 mile run. pm: track.. 6 x 800m at 4:55 min mile pace. 400 jog recoveries.. then 4 x 200m in 32 seconds.. 200 jog recovery.
f: 20.6 mile road run after work. 6:50 pace.
s: bike 10k.. 16km trail run.. bike 10k
s: am: 7.5 mile trail run pm: 3.1 mile road run
Still slacking. One fingerboard & ARC session this week, tried to 4x4 after but I was destroyed. Family holiday next week so I look forward to more slacking.
Thankyou Mattrm, hope Pembs goes down a treat. SOOOOOOO many routes there to get obsessed about.
Last week, after coming back from scotland on mon evening. I have worked all week and kept my lady happy by not going out climbing in the evening. Hopefully this week coming will be more productive.
I haven't posted in a while due a lack of climbing in the first half of my summer. I had a couple of weeks away on a trip with biology at college to Transylvania. Had an absolutely amazing time, but in total I had about a month off climbing so I was a bit out if shape. I had a week sport climbing in the alps with my family but my lack of fitness showed pretty quickly! I still managed a few 7a onsights, but they were really hard earned! I had a bit of a frustrating time falling off a few routes I knew I could've cruised if I'd been on form, but the trip did serve the excellent purpose of getting me back in shape. So this week I'm feeling the improvement already:
Mon - ferry home from France
Tue - rest
Wed - mcc bouldering session. The week I got back from trans I could barely do the V2-4 circuit of this set so it was nice to come back and get three of the V6-8s done and make good progress on a V8+.
Thurs - rest
Fri - quick session at Hobby. Warmed up on a scary E2 then top roped an E6. It used to be E5 but got an upgrade due to the pegs manking out. I didn't onsight it on the top rope because a lot of the key holds were wet but I got it clean on the second go despite the seepage, so I feel confident it'll go on the lead. It suits me well, pumps and technical lay backing up this lovely groovelet. The gear is good but spaced so I'll think it'll go by the end of summer.
Sat - rest
Sun - Cheedale, Sector Nadin. Warmed onsighting an E2 6a (stupidly cruxy, should've known it would be a bad warm-up). Then I worked abberation, 8a. I really like this route because it manages to be just off vertical but not hideously thin and crimpy. The holds are actually mostly good but it is veryyy techy and sequencey. I managed to get all the moves and link the two halves so I'm pretty hopeful it'll go soon!
So yeah I'm making a fit club return, although I will be missing next week because me and dad are going on a road trip, hitting Pembroke, the Culm coast, and possibly Avon. I'm hoping to get a few E4s ticked and maybe some E5s too. I do feel much fitter than I did a couple of weeks ago but I don't know if it's fit enough!
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st (3lbs loss)
M - Rest
T - Climbing - 2 VS onsights, 2 VS seconds
W - Rest
T - Fingerboarding
F - Core - 270 moves
S - Rest
S - HVS ONSIGHT LEAD @ Stennis Head, Pembroke!!!!!
Mega week. Two VS onsights at the start of the week and then finished it off with a HVS on Stennis Head today. Did Bludgeon on the South side of the crag. You have to do a diff traverse on the way in. Took quite a while faffing around with that, as we roped up cause my second wanted to. Good call on his part really. There was a decent swell running, so got the odd big wave.
The route was pretty steady really. Good holds, good gear. Had on moment in the middle, where I'd moved up, found the hold a bit naff, ended up in a bit of an awkward position and just ended up (rather unconsiously) laybacking up the middle of the route. Had cast out for holds on the right, couldn't find any. Reached up in a panic, grabbed the crack on the left and started moving feet, then got both hands on it and laybacked. Not planned and I was a passenger at that point. Reached out for a jug (and it was) and went back into a bridge. Good rest there and there was some gear. It just flowed. Amazing. So good when it all pays off. Couldn't have asked for a better first HVS. Great experience and a great route (2 stars, was definitely 2 stars).
Diet went well, back to 12st on the dot.
Ultra next week. Really looking forward to it.
Yep got that matey, thanks. It's my left leg / balance point that's throwing me off. So left hand on lower rail, right hand still in small pocket under the mini-bulge, bringing right leg up into drop-knee to get right hand up but I'm swinging off left before I can get my left foot established (pre right hand move).
Nice Matt, well done!
Was that your first? First HVS is a big milestone. Sounds like a good route as well, comitting above the sea at pembroke - not like doing a 8m grit slab!
Jake, I think Celebration starts up Aberration then finishes up Minos - can you tell me what that shared section is like? Thinking about trying Celebration (see above post).
Thanks, I've been mostly better this week just been over-doing it a bit between work and social life so my immune systems been suffering. And in terms of band I play in a military style band so have to try and juggle commitments at times!
STG (next 4 weeks): try to make the healthy month healthier, mileage, keep the psyche, climb with lots of different people
MTG (before winter): 6a bouldering regularly, keep leading trad (been over a month now so back to VDiff's) get on some sport and train hard when indoors, get in shape for font!
LTG (over next 6/9 months): get to know my technique and style, push through to HS trad, try and boulder 6b get on some sport
M: band as ever
T: headed up to running hill pits, feeling terrible still but seconded a route (first time on a rope in like 2 months) and flashed a boulder problem I was scared to top out
W: should've gone climbing but nobody else seemed to be going
T: more rehearsals
F: friends birthday
S: depot session, working on the V2-4 new black circuit, some really good problems, was moving at a quick pace with my friend so most problems only had 2 goes on, didn't top many but working on the moves. Flashed every one (apart from one) of the V1-3 set
S: headed to almscliff, managed 2 problems before we got rained off so ended back at depot. Finished quite a few of the black routes that I'd tried the day before but ended session earlier than I'd hoped due to painful skin and toes
So, slightly better week even though I'm still having a few psyche issues (had to be persuaded to leave the house on Sunday) but I feel I'm starting to get it back. Now to push more
Yeah, that was my first lead. Really happy to break into the grade by onsighting such a quality route. When I got going with VS, I picked stuff I'd seconded previously. Quite committing, 15 meters of sea level traversing at about Vdiff/Diff ish. We met a team heading back from the route, as the second didn't want to do the traverse in.
AJM - Thanks!
Joughton - nice to see you back, I've got a list of HVS at Pembroke/Gower to try and then it's onto Manzouku. The list is roughly:
Army Dreamers - as it's a bit of a face climb
Sunset Boulevard - slab
Riders on the Storm - traverse
Ones in other places are:
Exposure Explosion - committing traverse at Ogmore
The Assassin - groove at Gower
Isis - groove
South West Diedre - face climb with hand jams
Inverted V - a bold HVS slab on 3 Cliffs
Hopefully I'll get a bunch of them by the end of the year. But Ultra next weekend, then a weekend off, then up to Scotland for a (non-climbing) holiday with the family.
STG (End of 2013):
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Lead E2 try onsight
Top out the chief
Boulder 6C/V5 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Grand wall at squamish
MTG (April 2014):
Winter Grit - 7A boulder
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man
Goals for this week:
Climb a lot - hmm reasonable
M: Holmfirth - short but hard session
Warmed up on crimpy wall usual warm ups up to 6A. Then tried my 7A project first go everything felt good very close. another 10 goes with good progress.
Tried to repeat upside down arete. Foot slipped on last move. was tired
tried old lace (7A) progress I was able to pull on static.
T: Running hill pits wasnted to try sodum and Gomorrah got there it was all damp repeated a couple of things then headed to the pub.
W: Rest - (I think)
S: Depot 3 hours session felt good a little nervous of my knee but climbed well. Shoulders and legs felt worked at the end.
S: Almscliff warmed up. just finished my warm up and looked down the valley and saw a lot of rain coming so rushed to try flying arete again. Went to flying arete full of confidence but had one good go and 3 rushed goes seeing the rain getting closer and closer.
Rain hit we sacked it.
Back to the depot good session lots of problems done. ability dropped rapidly as the session went on.
Also here is a video from last weekend to give you an idea of what I am falling off http://www.vimeo.com/72598055
Next week's goals:
Stick to the no booze till squamish (3 weeks dry now)
Climb a few sessions.
much better session despite the crap british weather.
Matt, seem to recall from last week you said you preferred bridgey stuff - have you thought about something like Rock Idol for E1 rather than Manzoku? Lower in the grade I think, steeper sections definitely but also plenty of sections where you can bridge and in the steeper sections the holds are gigantic. Manzoku isn't a bad choice mind, I did it as a fairly early steep E1, but I certainly remember being boxed silly at the top - I think you can bridge when you're in the rests but the climbing itself is more open face climbing.
I forget how long you said you were in Scotland for but aside from one week mid September I'm probably going to be climbing around home a lot more until Ali hands in now so if you want to get out again I might well be around.
Thanks Matt, well done on the HVS, awesome!
And good work AJM and Si dH, brilliant tick list for your week. Great to see you at Kilnsey last week and share some pysche :o)
STG: 7b at Kilnsey, more E1s and E2s.
MTG: quick 7b or 7a in Spain/Kalymnos
Ties: Kilnsey, finally got on lead on Ground Effect and surprised myself with how easy it felt. 2 RP goes but didn't quite pull it off.
Weds: 6 mile Pilgrims Cross fell race, 300m ascent.
Thurs: Kilnsey, RPed GE first go! Woop!
Fri: 7.6 mile trail run, 430m ascent, to Sty Head from Wasdale.
Sat: 8.4 mile trail run, 565m ascent, to Windy gap from Wasdale.
Sun: Kendal wall working circuits.
Finally got GE effect done. Lesson learnt: get on lead sooner!
How did you get on with Frankie in the end?
Congratulations on the HVS! I've seconded Bludgeon - it certainly wasn't a pushover, you must be well chuffed.
did you end up taping the draw to stopping swinging about?
ps you feeing feeble re pull ups. . you were knocking a few reps out before making that clip!
Severe case of CBA! Got the first few moves sorted but then gave up so only half a top rope go really. I probably should have tried a bit harder as my belayer had some good short persons beta.
Cheers for the E3 recommendation on last weeks thread. Not sure I'll be that brave but it's soemthing to have a look at.
PPG: cheers, couldn't NOT do it after your success on Mescalito :o)
I'd forgotten about Rock Idol, good call. I do love features like that, it looks like such an amazing climb. Stuff like that inspires me much more than face climbs. However Manzoku did look very good. But if Rock Idol is a bit easier and a bit more 'my style' I might give it a bash. Pretty committing tho, there aren't many easy ways out of Mother Scareys are there?
I'm probably only free for the end of September (or the very last weekend in August) for weekends really, but would be keen to get out, especially as my normal partner is away on business and holidays for the next few weeks. Don't think
annak - It was spot on for HVS I thought, not easy, but not top end either. Mid-grade but perfect for a first HVS, didn't feel like it was a one move wonder, so really happy to have done such a good route.
Here, I managed to get a good rest by being flexible and having a shoe with a good rubberised toe - you can get your right foot in the break and slouch down on a good heel/toe jam. Enjoy!
I did yeah, thanks...!
I considered taping it out to the right when I was thinking about clipping from the break instead, but we only had finger tape which probably wouldn't have done the trick. In the end I was matching the boss more statically so had more control to get my arms in the right place.
Summer project for you next year? More of a summer crag than Malham, plenty for Sarah to do, stays dry far better than most things there, awesome route, stamina/pe style so probably more conducive to a siege than something cruxy (you could train fitness on the route like with mescalito), obvious milestones to chunk it down into (ground to eyes, eyes to boss, boss to top etc)... Got to have crossed your mind!?
Weekends are fine (what's a working week again? ;)
Scareys - there are a few VSs, Meridian (cruxy low down iirc) and I think the Cracks gets VS these days (crux in lower section), plus threadneedle st at severe. You might have to wade back across to them but the ledge at rock idol stays dry anyway i think.
And the way I see it, if you abb in the commitment is automatically capped at a damp jumaring session, so of all else fails you can take solace that it might be type 2 fun but you shouldn't miss last orders ;)
How dry does the maim bit of bodymachine stay Ally? It's an enormously tempting route but I wouldn't be able to get the regularity of my Ashes sessions away from home to try it so of it gets wet easy I might have to leave it for post van trip.
Congrats to Nomics/Rachel & AJM/Andy for completing their Kilnsey projects. Great timing before the crag got wet again!
VLTG (Sept 2014?) - complete 3 peaks Cyclo-cross race
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham
MTG (By end Sept 2013)
Get super fit for trip to the Red - flights booked. Whoop!
Diamond projects: Re-assessment of grades...
#1 >8a+ Direct start to NGOOTB - probably more like 8b/+ V9-V11? Start into 8a, or 8a+ extension
#2 >8a+ Link-up - again, harder than expected >8b for sure!
#3 >8b+ Uber route - Bransby is working on this one; probably in the 8c/+ range!
Non-tidal wish-list for weeks when Diamond is a non-starter:
Mandela, Kilnsey (wet at the moment)
K3, Cornice (will it dry out again this year?)
Trad project in Clwyd
- Insomnia, Dinbren
- Finger re-hab again. D'oh!
- Shoulders - reverse flys and seated rows to address gaston & undercut weaknesses
- An-cap - once a week to maintain
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week - 1 session to be foot-on campusing to ensure high intensity
- Core & flexibility work - back felt weak and unstable trying LF - must try harder to fit in these extra sessions
- Lose some weight; new aim <73kg - 73.9kg and 6.5% BF
The week just gone:
M - Rest
T - Rest again.
W - Dinbren. Got pi$$ed on at the carpark and bailed for a pint. Did bunch of 6b/c stuff at Trevor post pint once it'd stopped raining.
T - Pantymwyn. Only went out to bolt, but ended up bouldering first. Did V7 2nd go (Panty's down) and flashed V6 (Firestarter). Tried a V8+ and V9. Lots more to go at here now I know what's what. Made heel hurt though :-(
Bolted 7c+/8a project by head-torch.
F - Dinbren. Wet hold on Insomnia. Dogged it to dry, and one RP from deck to wet hold (feeling steady). Got new beta for final move from Doylo. Should be on once it's dry again. Anyone keen for Tuesday evening?
S - Lazy. CX hill sprint sessions. In morning, lardy lunch with visiting friend and fingerboard/pull-up/core session to punish myself afterwards!
S - Core DOMS! Ow! Diamond. Tried NGOOTB direct - effin' hard move from crimp-mono at 50degree angle, but can do mono-slot move afterwards. Dead-hanged holds a few times to see if it's feasible. Worked middle again and got some good links. Then got on Robinson Cruiser. No way this is 7c+! Hard 8a/+?
BM itself stays reasonably dry, with some possibility of seepage from and above the break.
Thanks for doing Fit Club mattrm.
I've done enough to post and have got going again.
Physios advice is to stay off steep ascents and climbing until all pain in the tendon has gone away.
I've decided I still want to do Ben Nevis race if I can, but feel any chance of achieving a goal has gone.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.
M: - nothing / rest ankle.
T: am - physio.
T: pm - 3.82m trail run, 135ft.
W: - 4.51m trail run, 399ft.
T: Ė 6.02m trail run, 470ft.
F: - rest ankle.
S: - 7.00m trail run, 584ft.
S: - 6.03m trail run, 674ft.
Now isn't so much of an issue - its if I have a day on it now and then next get on it again come about Oct/Nov - I'm really planning to cut down time away from home massively in Sept - I've got one short trip away with a friend who has time off but otherwise am pretty keen to stay near home to support Ali in the final push to handin.
Have been thinking it would be nice to try and squeeze in something else classic away from home if I do get a day or two free so was wondering about a classic 7c - my Yorkshire thirst is sated for the minute especially with it just having got wetter and given logistics and inspiration I'm leaning towards potentially a quick look at body machine - I'd love to check out the diamond and the 7c there (boat people?) looks mint but give the conditions issues it could end up being a project too far in terms of time consumption and faff. One of the big wallsend lines or something at Ansteys etc appeal but its easier to find people for the peak I reckon. Sure there are other choices I've just not considered, mind you.
Glad to see you have the red sorted. Time for laps on slopers!
well done. always good to combine a grade break with a great route.
I'm psyched to go back to Abberation though, and after that there's loads more to go at there, so let me know if you want a project partner.
Thanks matt, no luck yet but only had one session since last week.
Goal: The Ashes
Tues: Indoor routes, flashed a 7b fell off some others. Seem to have adapted to long outdoor sessions with lots of rest between routes so struggled with the pace of indoor climbing. Beasted at the end.
Sun: Kilnsey. Almost everything was wet including the top of the ashes (post boss) and a slightly wet sidepull below the boss. Still had a couple of decent attempts getting to the boss, thwarted due to wet sidepull rather than talent on one attempt, best Iíve felt on it so far. Figured out the move to juggy break - turns out the way everyone else does it is the best way, idiot. Also, got a nice stable position to do the final clip so much more confident about that bit.
Annoyingly my middle finger A1 pulley is feeling a bit sore, thought it had improved with cold water treatment and 4 days off last week but felt sore straight away on the ashes. Doesnít help that youíve got to pull pretty hard on two crimps with the right hand on steep ground.
More annoyingly Iím away all bank holiday weekend so wonít get another chance to get back on the ashes until the weekend after, then Iím away again so Iíll not get the regular sessions at Kilnsey Iíll need to get the ashes ticked off quickly. Fingers crossed itís still dry in October!
Effort on your projects AJM and Nomics!
Off to Dorset for some DWS and sport over bank holiday weekend. Need to concentrate on some fitness this week!
Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Dinbren - 3 laps on a 6b for a warm up. Got on "When Saturday Comes" 7c. First 7c I've ever been on. Didn't feel as hard as I thought it would. Got most of the moves sorted. The crux is a big throw which i'm sure there is better beta for. Route doesn't feel sustained just one really hard move. Psyched for it! Dogged a 6c as a warm down to get the moves wired to use it as a warm up next week.
Wednesday - Deadhangs - 35's, Front 3 open with 15kg added, 4 finger crimp 20mm edge, Middle 2 25mm edge with 7.5kg added, front 2 & back 3.
Highlights: Can now can the 35 degree slopers on the BM2000 for 5 secs without "cheating". Back 3 open for 9 secs 30mm edge.
Thursday - Rest
Friday - Deadhangs - Same as Tuesday but new PB's. Highlights: Front 2 for 10 secs on 30mm pocket! (This was 3 secs 4 weeks ago). Front 3 open 30mm edge 10 sec hang with 17.5kg added. Middle 2 25mm pocket 9 sec hang with 8kg added.
Saturday - Rest
Sunday - Had planned to go to the Diamond but my girlfriend was ill, took the little one out to Hope Mountain in the evening for an hour. Did Lower Arete in a few goes, never used to be close at all but smashed it, think the deadhangs are paying off! Used to get V6/7A but the start hold has evolved. Felt harder than other V5/6C's I've done.
Did 10 sets of 5 reps of offset pull ups, alternating arms every set. Finished off with some core and wrist curls.
A pretty piss poor week from me, and looking like another one this week... been really busy and head not there for any harder climbing (my boyfriend insists that I have a 'VS week' once a month as anything harder just ends in tears.......!). Also been trying to pack for Italy as I was away most of last week and bf's away this week... leaving straight after work on Fri so this will be my last post til mid-September.
Last week's goals:
3 runs (2 done), 2 core (1 done), 2 fb (fail) in amongst some climbing (not enough considering time available)
M: Bike commute
T: One way bike commute. Lunchtime run, cut short by serious wheezing... did 20mins ish.
W: In Wales for a Mammut gear testing few days with work - it's a seriously hard life sometimes eh?! Did get out climbing in the drizzle - went to the little crags just up the road from Plas-y-Brenin. Led a HVS 5a, seconded a HS, then got a serious spanking on some hideous overhanging fist jam crack, which I ended up aiding all of in the rain.
T: Still in Wales. Went to the Orme in search of sun, found sun but was unproductive. Led a 5+ (Golden Pond) on LPT then went back up the top as we didn't have a clipstick and weren't keen on the runouts to first bolts. Seconded something else, I think it was Mumbo Jumbo (6a) but didn't have a guidebook, felt harder than 6a anyway (6b?) and fell off a couple of times. Traversed around in the cave next to Parisella's for a while before heading home.
F: Bike commute, lunchtime run (5.8km 34 mins, not quite as wheezy but not great). Core sesh.
S: Some aid climbing practise. Few hours of aiding and jugging to get our heads back in the game before Italy. Achey today...
This week is pretty much a write off, climbing tonight then just runs/core/fb squeezed in between a million other things. However, goals for Italy:
- Orco: at least 3 longish valley routes (got plenty on the wish list), including a bit of aiding.
6b crack free (eek!)
Becca di Valsoera
- Piz Badile (prob N Ridge - Cassin route would be a dream come true!)
- Another alpine type route - Albigna area?
- Val di Mello - Luna Nascente
If we get half of that lot done I'll be a happy bunny.
Annak - another great week. Amazing how your mind works eh? Feeling like you're not capable of a certain grade, then realising that not only can you climb that but should be pushing yourself further. Keep it up :)
Nomics - nice one. Relieved?
Cool thanks man I'll give that a go tonight / next session up there... I think I was trying to do independent moves.
> Nomics - nice one. Relieved?
ha ha yes, very! Too embarassed to admit to how many sessions it took. Have a good time in Italy, very jealous.
However the rest of the crag is lovely frictiony sandstone which is just like grit, but taller with loads of pockets and less cracks. I think most of the routes are in the 5s and 6s. It's a cool place, especially as a good stop-off on the way to the alps.
ML Training went fine. A good but small group, we were all similar abilities, so managed to put some miles in. The safety and group management aspects were very interesting. A couple of times was I about 10% off in my dead reckoning. Plenty of practice will put paid to that, though! And there's the rub: how to get 20-40 Quality Mountain Days in over the next 12-18 months?!
It has given something else for me to do and to finish. I think the approach might be: bad weather = walking; good weather = climbing. thoughts? Oh, and some of those days need to be in the Highlands!
Anyway, after last week's 6 days of MLT, this week I felt particularly shattered. I don't know if I'd caught a bug or something. I did organise one climbing outing for Thursday, but it rained so we decided to not bother. Who wants to climb indoors in summer?!
After 5 weeks being away from my home, I finally returned this weekend: weight has gone up a bit from 79kg to 82kg. Body fat percentage hasn't increased massively though, but I don't think it's climbing muscle that's been gained!
So this week has been fairly recumbent and I've been re-thinking my goals.
Over the next few weeks, I'm either moving house at the weekends or caring for my daughter, so won't be doing much in the mountains. I might get out climbing once a week if I'm lucky.
Immediate term goals:
Move house to NORTH WALES!! :)
get exercising again (all those hills/mountains to run up)
re-evaluate what's the goal - it might be Mountain Leader Assessment before climbing :(
> Here, I managed to get a good rest by being flexible and having a shoe with a good rubberised toe - you can get your right foot in the break and slouch down on a good heel/toe jam. Enjoy!
Thanks, sounds like good beta! :)
got on baboo baboo today.. hard but i think it could possibly draw me in. . suss the the sequences for next spring maybe.
I know! It's blown my mind a little bit actually, I feel like I've kind of reset my map of what I can do.
Doesn't sound like you had too shabby a week yourself actually - you should definitely get more points for climbing in the rain :)
I think I did two runs and a bouldering session last week (though not sure about second run). Bouldering session focused on endurance which was good. Weekend totally taken up with shopping, IKEA (surely I get a medal for surviving that?!), furntiure unloading, building and sorting. Priority is trying to get remainingg furniture for flat and doing some endurance stuff for Kaly. If anyone knows of a sofa/chest of drawers going begging in SE London let me know!
Mon - Boulder room. Lots of problems done and sweated buckets. Really happy with the session but stayed away from anything hard.
Tue - Knackered
Wed - Boulder room. Two solid 40 min sessions. Finished another V2. Fingers and forearms were pooped when I left.
Thu - Rest day.
Fri - Boulder room. Finally managed the starting moves on the 30deg V4! Then popped a muscle in the back of the knee whilst heel hooking on the 45deg BUT managed the move. Oh yes.
Sat - DAY OFF WORK! Showed Mel how to set belays most of the day, just walked along the top but did get on Green Wall VS at Popular. Ended up aiding onto the ledge as it was a bit green and gloppy, to be fair the guidebook did say don't do when wet.
Sun - Onsighted Scorpion Slab HS at Strangler, then did Slab and Crack Direct finish VS but knew I'd need to sit at the undercut to work out how to use my wrist best (limited movement). Then made the move. Wanted to do the E1 5c on Scorpion Slab but wasn't feeling the whole thing so left it to another day.
Finally got somewhere with grit I feel. Still struggling massively with it as I can't really jam and I can't make my mind up if it's thuggy or technical. I guess the fact I love slate more than anything else say it all...
Finally motivated to lose some weight, funny where the inspiration comes from sometimes but I've now got it. I'll get a new battery for the scales and track the progress.
> However the rest of the crag is lovely frictiony sandstone which is just like grit, but taller with loads of pockets and less cracks.
And more bolts!
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