/ cuilin ridge - leaving gear behind - and which direction
Also shes keen to do the traverse North to south, thus leaving a lot of the tech climbing out and abseiling a lot of the difficulties, believing this would be faster but I'm concerned as there is severe climb out of the TD gap this way and is that avoidable, I.E. can one drop into a gully or something and scramble around it?
Thanks for reading
There's certainly no concerns with leaving much gear behind going S-N as there's arguably only 2 abseils (TD gap and In Pinn, both of which have in-situ anchors). You can do more abseils if you like or go N-S but this may well slow things down rather than speeding things up. Maybe take 3 slings between you and you can always leave one if required.
TD gap going N-S: yes I understand you abseil into the gap then can just scramble down the gully, traverse round and so back onto the ridge.
For north to south you will need a lot of tat to leave behind, no need for any slings or snap gates though.
We left around 20m of tat when we did it in winter I think
Most of the ab stations are well adorned but always worth carrying a few meters of your own stuff. If you go S-N, the ab stations on Bidean Druim nan Ramh is enough to encourage anyone to down climb rather than get the rope out.
The climb out of the TD gap going N-S is only graded V-Diff and 10 meters.
> The climb out of the TD gap going N-S is only graded V-Diff and 10 meters.
Have you done it? Do you think it's easier or harder than the long side?
My comment was going by the SMC guidebook.
I'd say the long side is quite tricky but fair at v-diff. Not too bad in big boots which fitted perfectly in the crack!
I remember thinking the short side looked quite hard but didn't look too closely. Interesting how one seems to have been upgraded and the other downgraded.
The long side is quite tough I thought, but I think the psychological cruxes are the short solos, like the short and very exposed wall immediately prior to the ab' into the TD gap. We also managed to find a short and overhung section getting onto the Basteir Tooth, that was probably about 4a/b and starting from the big ramp but with potential for a ride all the way to the bottom - bit testing at the end of a long day.
"Have you done it? Do you think it's easier or harder than the long side?"
I done the climb out of the TD gap heading South.
It's very short lived with only 2-3m of any difficultly but a serious obstacle never the less. Damp polished slopers and a heavy sack made it a hard pull and I had only joined the ridge at the in-pin that day.
That said, in answer to your question, it was much easier than the long side which is tricky thruch.
I'd still recommend going S-N. It wouldn't be the end of the world if you didn't complete the ridge (this first time)...
> We also managed to find a short and overhung section getting onto the Basteir Tooth, that was probably about 4a/b and starting from the big ramp but with potential for a ride all the way to the bottom - bit testing at the end of a long day.
Do you mean the bit up to Am Bastier from the Tooth?
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