/ Sport crags recommendations near Bristol

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bibbey - on 19 Aug 2013
Afternoon!

I want to get some more sport climbing in over the next couple of months in preparation for a trip to Spain.

I have only recently moved to the area so I can anyone recommend me some particular sport crags to check out within an hourís drive of Bristol?

A nice mix of grades with some good lower grade range climbs would be great as I am only just getting back into the swing of things and will be taking an outdoor newbie one weekend.

Cheers!
Luke
GridNorth - on 19 Aug 2013
In reply to bibbey: The only one I would recommend is Portland. It's about an hour and a half away but is an order of magnitude better than Tintern, Ban-Y-Gor, Woodcroft Quarry and Wyndcliff Quarry put together although all of these are within an hours drive. Cheddar also has a few sports climbs to offer. The 30foot Wall at Tintern is probably best for lower grades but be warned it is not the most attractive or safest of places to climb, having said that the 30 foot Wall is more solid than others hereabouts.
pheotleyr - on 19 Aug 2013
In reply to GridNorth:
> Cheddar also has a few sports climbs to offer.

Slightly understated? :)
There's tons of sport climbing at Cheddar...

New Quarry in Avon Gorge is worth a visit for F6b-F7a sport climbing if you want to drive 10 mins only.
GridNorth - on 19 Aug 2013
In reply to pheotleyr:
> (In reply to GridNorth)
> [...]
>
> Slightly understated? :)
> There's tons of sport climbing at Cheddar...
>
> New Quarry in Avon Gorge is worth a visit for F6b-F7a sport climbing if you want to drive 10 mins only.

Well perhaps but "tons" is most definitely overstating it and the OP was looking for climbs in the lower grades as he is just getting back into it. F6b to F7a doesn't meet that description in my book.
lukehodson on 19 Aug 2013
In reply to bibbey:

I'd disagree, ban-y-gor is actually not bad, and better in the 6's than cheddar. I also hear The Gap is pretty decent, though not been myself.

Personally I don't rate portland at all, but each to their own.
hms - on 19 Aug 2013
In reply to lukehodson: The Gap is indeed very good. Looks a little tatty at first glance, but excellent climbing. Very easy drive from Bristol.

New Quarry routes suffer somewhat from the fact that the bottom of the crag is a popular bouldering venue, so the first clip and a bit is extremely polished. For that reason clipstick highly recommended.

The good bits in Tintern are quite good, but the bad bits are truly lethal!
GridNorth - on 19 Aug 2013
In reply to lukehodson: The rock at Ban-Y-Gor is excellent quality but the routes are mostly very short lived as the crag is on average only 12 metres high. I hate the place as you never get out of the trees and IMO the climbing feels very hemmed in. I would also say that grade for grade it's a little on the tough side.
rob514 - on 19 Aug 2013
In reply to bibbey:

There are plenty of climbs in cheddar from f5 upwards but beware there's lots of polish out there on these low grades close to the road!
whenry on 20 Aug 2013
In reply to bibbey: Tirpentwys and Gilwern are also within an hour of Bristol and offer lower grades, but I'd second Ban-y-gor - make your way along to the main wall and you get longer routes out of the trees. The grades on the escarpment can be slightly tough, but there's plenty to do there.
bibbey - on 20 Aug 2013
In reply to GridNorth:
You are quite right I wouldn't be putting myself on any F6b's yet...

Thanks all for the advice, looks like I have a few spots to try out before the nice weather ends!
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The Ivanator - on 20 Aug 2013
In reply to bibbey: If you want to pick some target routes you'll find the best F5 - F6a+ Wye valley Sport lines are in this ticklist:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=519
...and Cheddar gets the same treatment here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=275
(the routes on the South side are off limits at present).

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