/ Easy UK sea cliffs

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Trevers - on 14 Sep 2013
Which are the best sea cliff venues for routes in the grade bracket Diff to HS?

Thanks in advance!
dsh - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers:

Saddle head in Pembroke has loads in that grade but not much else in the area.
davidbeynon - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers:

There is loads of easy stuff in N pembroke, around the St Davids area. Slabby sandstone mostly. If you can get your hands on the current guide (vol 1) then take a look at the "organ pipes".
DerwentDiluted - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers:
The Gower is surely your place, most you can walk to, Sheep bone wall offers as friendlier place for the sea cliff atmosphere as anywhere I've been. Other places I've sampled that leap to mind include Sennen and Chair Ladder in Cornwall, Giltar slabs and Porth Clais in Pembroke and there's some cracking crags near poolewe in NW Scotland.
Diluted.
Stuart S - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers:

You'll find it hard to beat Reiff for quality and scenery at those grades, but it is a wee bit out of the way. There are also some good, friendly crags on the granite north of Aberdeen (e.g. Greymare Slabs, Meikle Partans).
Trevers - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Stuart S:
> (In reply to Trevers)
>
> You'll find it hard to beat Reiff for quality and scenery at those grades, but it is a wee bit out of the way. There are also some good, friendly crags on the granite north of Aberdeen (e.g. Greymare Slabs, Meikle Partans).

Thanks for the suggestion but unfortunately Aberdeen is a bit far out of my way. Ought to have mentioned I'm looking for South England and Wales.
Offwidth - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers: Sennen and Bosigran (not forgetting the small bay just west of Bosigran if you want more easy stuff in that range) Gower and Pembroke are also obvious choices.
Skip - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to Trevers) ot forgetting the small bay just west of Bosigran if you want more easy stuff in that range>

That'll be Halldrine, http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2706.

Another suggestion,

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=692
Ramblin dave - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers:
Some good suggestions here.

Baggy Point also has some good easier stuff, and there's some okay easy stuff at Swanage too - Cattle Troughs and Subluminal specifically.

To an extent, I think that where would be best depends whether you want a nice, accessible, escapable crag by the sea, or whether you want the full sea cliff adventure, with a committing abseil approach and a slightly intimidating location, but without having to climb HVS to get it.
disco leg - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers:

How about Trewavas, it is on the coast but quite a long way above the sea so not affected by tides or big waves and, now the summer is just about over, probably going to be warmer than Bosi.
Skip - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to disco leg:

There is some sea level stuff at Trewavas, just most seem to ignore it.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8145

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=8439
Trevers - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave:
> (In reply to Trevers)
> Some good suggestions here.
>
> Baggy Point also has some good easier stuff, and there's some okay easy stuff at Swanage too - Cattle Troughs and Subluminal specifically.
>
> To an extent, I think that where would be best depends whether you want a nice, accessible, escapable crag by the sea, or whether you want the full sea cliff adventure, with a committing abseil approach and a slightly intimidating location, but without having to climb HVS to get it.

The latter preferably. I've done a tiny bit of sea cliff climbing but on a top rope by lowering in which was spectacular in itself, but not quite the full experience.
Skip - on 14 Sep 2013
baron - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers: the coast between Lydstep and Tenby has some very pleasant routes in your desired grade range. We've spent many a fine day exploring this area.

Pmc
Wilbur - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers:
> (In reply to Ramblin dave)
> [...]
>
> The latter preferably. I've done a tiny bit of sea cliff climbing but on a top rope by lowering in which was spectacular in itself, but not quite the full experience.

Go to mowing word at Pembroke and do diedre sud (HS) in that case..

Michael Gordon - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers:

Reiff
Al Evans on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers: Have to put a vote in here for Porth Clais (St Davids) area in N Pembroke, but it's mostly abseil approach.
Bulls Crack - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to DerwentDiluted:
> (In reply to Trevers)
> The Gower is surely your place, most you can walk to,

Shome mishtake shurely?
mattrm - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> (In reply to DerwentDiluted)
> [...]
>
> Shome mishtake shurely?

You can walk to most of them and there's a lot of non-tidal stuff. So not sure why you say 'some mistake'.

If you look around at Pembroke, there's a lot more easy stuff than most folk seem to think.

Myola on Stuntsmans Butress (VS in the new guide) but it was HS in the last one, is a really nice route and it is HS. There's some nice Severes and VDiffs at Stennis Head as well.
Alun - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers:
> Which are the best sea cliff venues for routes in the grade bracket Diff to HS?

In this grade band surely the most pleasant sea-cliff venue is the UK is Gower. I never understand why people recommend the toilet that is Saddle Head when they could be building sandcastles in-between ticking routes at Three Cliffs or Fall Bay.
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Alun - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> > The Gower is surely your place, most you can walk to,

> Shome mishtake shurely?

I can't think of a single crag on Gower that really requires an abseil.
Alun - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Alun:
> toilet that is Saddle Head

This said, the best VS I've ever done is Blue Sky. So i take that comment back - at least partially!
The Ivanator - on 14 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers: Wall Street at Cormorant Ledge (Swanage) gives a great sea cliff experience at HS. Ledgend HS, Oran S and Cormorant Buttress West S are nearby and also worthwhile.
davidalcock - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers: so not Wen Slab then?
Blue Straggler - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to Alun:
> (In reply to Alun)
> [...]
>
> This said, the best VS I've ever done is Blue Sky. So i take that comment back - at least partially!

And Sea Mist is up there with the best HS routes I've done. But yes on the whole I would tend toward N. Pembroke, with perhaps a foray to Flimston Bay for Bow-Shaped Corner.

The only time I tried to go to the Gower, England and Wales got hit hard by crazy flooding leaving me stranded and sleeping in the outskirts of Evesham in a car that was lucky to survive it all. I won't be trying that again in a hurry :-)
davidalcock - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler: was that 2007? I managed to get to Ledbury just before it became an island. Bonkers day. We were kindly put up in some school teachers' house.
Blue Straggler - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to davidalcock:

2007 or 2008. It's when a load of cars were stranded, static on the M50, for many many hours. I was lucky, really! When it had become clear I would not get to Swansea, I rang a friend in Worcester to see if I could stay at his house, he said "aye" but just as I was approaching Worcester, it got sealed off - an important bridge was closed because it was sustaining structural damage from caravans. Caravans that were bobbing around in the river and smacking into it....
Bulls Crack - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to mattrm:
> (In reply to Bulls Crack)
> [...]
>
> You can walk to most of them and there's a lot of non-tidal stuff. So not sure why you say 'some mistake'.
>
>
Juts wondering if the OP wanted sea cliffs rather than cliffs by the sea!
Calder - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> (In reply to mattrm)
> [...]
> Juts wondering if the OP wanted sea cliffs rather than cliffs by the sea!

In which case I'll give an honourable mention to Jack Scout. Although I'll confess that because of its situation on Morecambe Bay, it's not always a sea-cliff.
Only a hill - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers:
In my limited experience of sea cliff climbing, Reiff is the place to go. It's a friendly, low grade paradise.
The Ivanator - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:
> (In reply to Trevers) Wall Street at Cormorant Ledge (Swanage) gives a great sea cliff experience at HS. Ledgend HS, Oran S and Cormorant Buttress West S are nearby and also worthwhile.

Hmmm, having just looked at your logbook I'd wait awhile until you ab into Cormorant/Guillemot Ledge at Swanage, unless you have an experienced partner with you who is solid at HS (or harder). Take prussik loops and know how to use them to ascend the ab line - an ab rope and half ropes to climb on are pretty much essential at most big sea cliff venues.
duchessofmalfi - on 15 Sep 2013
Gower - lots of stuff - 3 cliffs bay / fall bay and around which has the advantage of avoiding abseils in.

Pembroke - lots of stuff but expect committing abseils in.

All very very nice
Sean Kelly - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers: Loads of mid-grade routes at Chair Ladder and when the sun is shining is there anywhere better? Needs a couple of visits to find your way around though.
James Oswald - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers:
Another vote for N Pembroke, much more pleasant (and just as friendly) as the polished low grade classics at Saddle Head. N Pembroke is stunning.
This was my first sea cliff climb, I lead it as a (pretty incompetent!!) HS/VS leader. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6473
Trevers - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
> [...]
>
> Hmmm, having just looked at your logbook I'd wait awhile until you ab into Cormorant/Guillemot Ledge at Swanage, unless you have an experienced partner with you who is solid at HS (or harder). Take prussik loops and know how to use them to ascend the ab line - an ab rope and half ropes to climb on are pretty much essential at most big sea cliff venues.

Thanks for the advice. The HS routes are something to work towards next summer to be honest. Are static ropes generally used for ab ropes?
tlm - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to Trevers:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
> [...]
>
> Thanks for the advice. The HS routes are something to work towards next summer to be honest. Are static ropes generally used for ab ropes?

It depends what you have available. Most people use an old sports rope.

davidalcock - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler: Yeah, I actually turned onto the M50 to escape the M5. Had water up to window level getting into Ledbury! I don't think all that clutch slipping did the car much good. And I was with two toddlers and a pregnant wife. Three point turn in four feet due to a drowned Disco blocking the road was the crux. Toyota Starlet. Fab wee car.
Bulls Crack - on 15 Sep 2013
In reply to davidalcock:
> (In reply to Blue Straggler) Yeah, I actually turned onto the M50 to escape the M5. Had water up to window level getting into Ledbury! I don't think all that clutch slipping did the car much good. And I was with two toddlers and a pregnant wife. Three point turn in four feet due to a drowned Disco blocking the road was the crux. Toyota Starlet. Fab wee car.

So the bonnet completely submerged? Remarkable engine that!
davidalcock - on 16 Sep 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack: Put it this way: I didn't believe it either, and was in full "get the family up a tree mode". I have some photos on an old hard drive. The car survived another two years. Absolutely unbelievable weather, and very lucky driving.
davidalcock - on 16 Sep 2013
P.s. No, I have never figured out how the engine was getting air either, but it was somehow. My science head says impossible, but still, it happened. Weird bow wave effects? Revs at 6k? Still doesn't explain the intake. I still shake my head in incomprehension.
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