/ best way to use indoor bouldering for outdoor trad and sport.

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Mountain Spirit - on 10 Oct 2013
Hello.

I am joining the London Mountaineering Club soon to climb outdoors regularly.

I have been mainly indoor bouldering and I would like to know the answer or answers to the following question:

What is/are the best way(s) to use indoor bouldering to train for outdoor sport and trad?

Bye

Savvas
filip.kamycki - on 11 Oct 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

climb upside down
r0x0r.wolfo - on 11 Oct 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit: There is a duplicate thread by the same author. UKC please delete this thread.
seankenny - on 11 Oct 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Take off your shirt. Beat your chest.
Shout: "I am SAWAS, and I WILL prevail!"

Do this before every boulder problem and watch the grades tumble.
humptydumpty - on 11 Oct 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> What is/are the best way(s) to use indoor bouldering to train for outdoor sport and trad?

Hi Savvas, routes will be longer outdoors, so try to do longer bouldering problems or connect a few together. If the indoor wall you go to has roped climbing, try doing some of this as well.

Good luck with the new club.
Duncan Disorderly - on 11 Oct 2013
I think indoor bouldering walls are great training for routes, as the last poster said links or longer problems are a great start. These would be great for mimicking crux sequences - think 10 - 15 moves; you can do, say 4 sets of these with decreasing rest times before moving onto harder problems/links – there’s a million variations out there.

I'd also be looking at increasing you aerobic capacity by doing lots of easy circuits - i.e. make up a circuit of say 100 moves (or 10 mins on the wall) that you can complete without getting pumped (or just a light pump)... This will help with your recovery and when placing gear from decent holds etc.

You can also do PE circuits - these would generally be up to about 40 moves at an intensity that you can just about complete.. Do 4-6 of these with 5mins rest between sets for a good workout. Decrease rest as you improve and/or make the circuit harder.

:D
Mountain Spirit - on 12 Oct 2013
In reply to humptydumpty:

Hello.

Thanks for your advice.

The centres that I go to have got tall walls especially Mile End that have some sustained problems.

I do not have a climbing partner many centres have autobelays now.

I may try using the autobelays again.

Bye

Savvas
Mountain Spirit - on 12 Oct 2013
In reply to Duncan Disorderly:

Hello Duncan.

Thanks for your advice.

These are really great ideas!

Will give them a pop next week.

Bye

Sav
xplorer on 12 Oct 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit) There is a duplicate thread by the same author. UKC please delete this thread.


Wolfo,

Are you for real? You need to sort your head out!
Dave Garnett - on 12 Oct 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
>
> What is/are the best way(s) to use indoor bouldering to train for outdoor sport and trad?
>

Oh I don't know, why does there have to be a best way? You could just try enjoying it. And then go climbing outside and try to enjoy that too.
shaun stephens - on 12 Oct 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo: WHY?, are people not allowed now to ask a question twice, mr thread policeman?
Mountain Spirit - on 13 Oct 2013
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Hello.

I enjoy steep v1-v3 climbing.

Had a great session on Friday.

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