/ Greatest move ever?
The move over the lip on Tody's wall @ Froggatt...not elegent, but satisfying.
Edging leftwards out of the sentry-box towards the groove on The Groove at Dunkeld is great, too: little holds, but they're all there.
Rainbow rocket is amazing!
Leaving the Porthole on those tiny tiny edges......
Hee hee. That's a "Now what?" move :-)
The answer is 'jump off'.
The mantleshelf move on Poetry Pink .
Not a bad choice, but the move off the last undercut on Footless Crow was very special. Perplexing under you fathomed the sequence, then amazing how easy the execution felt. Shame its fallen off.
At HVS, I would now suggest the arete and jug a couple of metres up Eliminator at Stanage Popular.
The step round the initial arete on "Heart of Darkness".
The through-route on Tower Ridge. Brilliant.
> The step round the initial arete on "Heart of Darkness".
Great position, but no 'move' to speak of.
For the best ever actual move it'd have to be on a grit boulder, maybe Pebble Wall.
Hmm? Point. How about Problem 6 - Cratcliffe Top Boulders (VG Peak District Bouldering)?
Leaping for the top on Wings of Unreason.
The last move on Track of the Cat at the Roaches.
The technical crux of five finger exercise, right hand crimp on that little nubbin and sweeping motion up and right with the left hand as you bring your left foot further along the break, all safe in the knowledge you have good gear beneath you and you can jst enjoy the moment.
Grabbing my guides leg on a scary move on the cosmicques arÍte .
Big Jim, said '' no, no, let go ma leg''!
It was improvisation born of fear!
, lost count of how many times I have done it.
There are only a few routes I choose to do again and again
The crux sequence on the slab on Superdirect.
Or perhaps Joe Arete at Roaches Upper Tier; I can just do that problem again and again and again. It's just so satisfying, especially done completely statically - a lot of people do a little jump for the top knowing it's a jug (me included the first time), but once I found how to do it statically, I just wanted to do it again and again.
The move out on to the face on Raven Wing.
The traverse along the flake on Suspension Flake
Haven't done it but I think the last step off the mountain having summited Annapurna must be pretty satisfying. (Not the last step ONTO the summit - too tired plus worry about getting down in one piece).
> Leaping for the top on Wings of Unreason.
Better than the dyno on Deliverance?
The difficulty increases in proportion to your weight; at 12 stone it's about right for the grade but at 15 it's desperate.
In reply to Tom V:
At severe, the elegant drop-knee start to Crack and Corner, Roaches upper tier has to be a contender - best enjoyed after watching someone else floundering on it for a bit first.
The drop down to the porthole on Horny L'il Devil.
Remind me what it was.
I remember reaching left to a thin crack but that might have been later?
The slap move on Monty Python's Direct at Kyloe-in-the-woods might be my personal favourite.
> The move over the lip on Tody's wall @ Froggatt...not elegent, but satisfying.
I raise you with the move onto the block on Today's wall :-)
It's difficult to define a 'greatest' move, but Croton Oil has a good exposed move where you reach out left from the flakes to the crack out on the arete.
Also, the top out on Dover's Wall Route 2 - grab jugs, fling a heel onto the top and rock onto it (a move which is now known amongst my circle of friends as a 'hero move').
> Better than the dyno on Deliverance?
Yes, because the potential plummet on Wings makes it much more exciting (although I'm yet to latch the top on Deliverance so maybe I'm not qualified to comment).
> Wings of Unreason
> Better than the dyno on Deliverance?
Far, far better. On Deliverance you've already taken the fall 30+ times, but on Wings, its usually onsight, scary and requires total commitment.
The move to get your left foot onto the massive pebble on Crease Direct at Crookrise
Dutch lady doing some unnecesary and OTT, but rather crowdpleasing, sideways "flip" at an indoor lead comp last year. The clip was doing the rounds about 6 months ago.
For "real rock climbing", Randall and Whittaker's "upside with leg stuffed into the crack where the climb becomes vertical rather than a roof" on Century Crack.
Knight's Moves on Grooved Arete - Do you go across and up? Or up and across?
The bold step left from the ledge onto the traverse before Teufel's Crack on Munich Climb
The centre layback move into the niche on Niblick
The off balance move to gain the layback of Slim Finger Crack
The instant exposure on the first few moves of Spiral Stairs
The crux crack of Bowfell Buttress
Doorpost - all of it.
The fall-over start to Kinyboots at Baggy Point has to rate somwhere up there?
> The fall-over start to Kinyboots at Baggy Point has to rate somwhere up there?
Or even 'down-there'?
> I raise you with the move onto the block on Today's wall :-)
I've never fathomed why people have trouble with this move. It's about 4a. What's wrong with you all?
The last move on Troutdale Pinnacle reaching blindly for the finishing jug is a good one.
The mantleshelf move on Concave Wall, Wainstones
The move off the top of the tree on North Crag Eliminate, Castle Rock of Trierman
"That step" on Great Slab at Froggatt.
Only if you have a reasonable reach and know how to do it (i.e. go left...or was it right?!)
Funny cos I would say that the crux layback on the top-pitch is better as a single move. Though the slab is finer pitch when taken as a whole.
Gosh - wonder if I gave you a lift down the road afterwards. I remember once giving a 14-year-old or so who'd just done PP as his first E5 a lift along the Pass.
Is there a video clip of that anywhere? ;-)
Erm, for my 2p worth I have a couple:
1) the mantle shelf on tiny edges of GFI
2) that moment when you find the hidden foothold on Valkyrie
Agreed. But the slab is better overall!
I also liked the move round the corner, off the slab and into the diedre on Prophesy of Drowning - wow.
Pulling through the roof on pitch 2 of Big Top, and seeing the ground fall away to my right. Was feeling claustrophobic (boxed in, nervous, head all wrong) and when my hand found the jug and I pulled through all my tension vanished.
(ok, 'roof' is stretching it)
Yes, those pitches up the arete are absolutely stunning. I think it's the only time I'll see 'claustrophobic' in the same paragraph as that route though!
Not the hardest but one of the most memorable: the hand traverse on Energy Crisis. Even this photo doesn't capture the drop as you shuffle left.
I'm amazed how everyone is immediately saying what their greatest move ever is/was, particularly when some of the examples given (of those that I've done anyway) are not that extraordinary. Surely the point of the question is a move that is technically very unusual, requiring some unusual body position/series of moves, 'clever', beautiful, and surprising all at the same time. And ideally in spectacularly exposed and beautiful position. Re. everything except those in the last category I can think of dozens, perhaps hundreds (a surprising number of brilliant moves are to be found on SE Sandstone ... at least as good as grit in that respect.) Dolerite and natural, very well weathered limestone comes out very high in my memories too. And the best granite. Rhyolite tends to be more fun/dramatic than technical, though there are huge exceptions like the Grochan of course,.
Having mouthed off, I'd better at least give some examples of just a few of the very best moves I can remember, off the top of my head. I won't mention sandstone or gritstone, because there are just so many (but tempted to mention crux of Old Friends, Tody's Wall, Peapod, and Five Finger Exercise). On bigger crags in exposed positions: cruxes of West Flank Route, Kipling Groove, Vector, Weaver - outrageous move I thought, end of traverse on pitch 3 Nexus, and at a lower level, top of Naismith's Route and Tophet Wall, both outrageously good for their standard. I'm sure I'll think of dozens of others. Some brilliant ones on Cornish granite too.
By Naismith's Route I mean the one on the Basteir Tooth.
PS 2. All four cruxes on The Plum are utterly brilliant too. Almost every crux move of every route on the Nose of the Mot, that I've done, anyway.
Well, steady, but there's no question that the crux is brilliant.
One that really IS brilliant on Froggatt, every single move, is Great Slab (only seconded, hadn't got NEARLY enough ability in hand to even contemplate leading/ i.e. soloing it) Froggatt also has some classic cruxes that are more beautiful than technically particularly brilliant e.g. Valkyrie and Chequers Arete. Both utter class.
Shining Clough has some particularly wow! cruxes too.
And that slab at Castle Naze, first done solo in bare feet by Stanley Jeffcoat. A fantastic route. Sheer class, every single move. Outrageously good, not to mention gutsy, for its date (c. 1911 I think)
Then there are all those incredible routes at Laddow. I mean incredibly interesting technically. Including Ivar Berg's incredible first E1, both technically hard and strenuous in a totally modern way, and that wonderful direct, whatever it's called, near the left end of the crag by Birtwistle, on perfect rock. Very sustained HVS 5a, and he wouldn't have had a stitch of protection
Then there's the whole of the Chew Valley. Best I shut up now.
Please forgive me, but I must mention just one more: at E1, the crux of Ivy Sepulchre on the Cromlech is absolutely outrageously good, requiring a dyno for a hoped-for jug that really does materialise, in an outrageously spectacular overhanging position. Getting yourself into the wide bridging position for that dyne, for someone with v short legs like myself it technically quite tricky. PS. By dyne, I mean something that would be v tame by climbing wall standards, but it is a committing dyne nevertheless.
I keep on writing D Y N O and the UKC website changes it back to 'dyne', sorry.
I agree on the slap move on nexus up high.
What about the Harding slot on spectre? I recall throwing myself in!
Also see karwendal wall crux at the grochan. What a move!
Top pitch of superdirect also has some incredible moves
Also see holly tree direct in langdale. The greatest '4c' move I've encountered!
> I agree on the slap move on nexus up high.
> What about the Harding slot on spectre? I recall throwing myself in!
I did that so badly, in 1968, at the limit of my ability, graunching up the the right side of the chimney, au cheval, that I can't possibly comment on it :)
> Also see karwendal wall crux at the grochan. What a move!
Agreed. A superb, beautiful, elegant crux.
> Top pitch of superdirect also has some incredible moves
V sad never to have done this. Everyone I know who's done it raves about it.
actually, on reflection, I think I may have done this, if you mean the short pitch above the final narrow terrace. I think that's what we chose to do as a finish to Crosstie, by moving a long way right. It it's what I remember, a fantastic clean, hard v dynamic overhanging bridging thing, All those finishes at the top of the Mot nose are fantastic. Including the (modern) finish to Diagonal.
PS. Crosstie was a scary gem too. The crux final pitch is a beautiful, clean left leaning shallow groove, in a fantastic position, of great technical interest. Last move being the hardest. Amazing climbing in a superb position
The turnaround move on Strap.... is pretty amazing, but the exposure it limited!
It's a while since I did it, and I don't know if it counts as a "move" or a "position", but the bit on Mitre at Chair Ladder when you come out onto the main face is quite something, at least in my memory.
> It's a while since I did it, and I don't know if it counts as a "move" or a "position", but the bit on Mitre at Chair Ladder when you come out onto the main face is quite something, at least in my memory.
+1 Glad you mentioned it, because I remember being really impressed by Mitre. Diocese is wonderful too.
To add a continental flavour.
The move out of the cave on Little Michluzzi (SP) Piz Ciaves, Dolomites.
You move from the comfort of the cave out onto the wall with nothing beneath your feet. Its not hard but I love it.
Im gonna go a bit Esoteric.
Not a top route, not a top crag, and only just off the Deck. I just used to really enjoy the flow of the couple of moves, just always felt smooth and Right.
Castle rock, cleeve Hill. First 6 Metres of the overhang. Off balance move for 2 finger pocket Round arete with left Hand. Get balance, up again left Hand for narrow Ledge, Right Hand to vertical Hand Pinch. Then its all over, Saunter up easy Final Crack.
Nothing Special, just like the flow.
Current guidebook has it at E2 5b. But its only HVS 5a really
> I'm amazed how everyone is immediately saying what their greatest move .... Surely the point of the question is a move that is technically very unusual, requiring some unusual body position/series of moves, 'clever', beautiful, and surprising all at the same time.
So, the greatest move ever is going to be something that someone other than ones-self has done. Like the sideways move on the Quarryman Groove, or the ridiculous footless span and swing into leg lock on Sharma's Witness The Fitness.
All the moves on Shadow Play at Kentmere.
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