/ US in the Summer

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Henry Connor - on 11 Oct 2013
Heading to the States for the first time next summer (teacher so has to be summer...).

1. Can you find anywhere with cool temps enough to sport climb; anywhere classic and worthwhile?

2. Can you boulder anywhere apart from on Colorado Alpine stuff (as in high cold enough and high density of quality mid7s-low8s). Is the Colorado stuff worth a trek in its own right?

3. Should I sack it off and head to Canada (Banff/Squamish)

Thoughts please
innes - on 12 Oct 2013
In reply to Henry Connor:

Maple Canyon UT is a safe bet for summer sport climbing. Lots of different sectors of all aspects, some (such as ice box) are cool no matter what the suns doing. Its all on weird, rounded conglomerate cobble stones, so quite unique and its very steep so you'll get fit. I'd recommend a visit - try googling for some images.

Rifle is the classic sport destination in CO. Its on the western slope. I haven't been in high summer, but it was perfect in September. You'll definitely get climbing done in summer I'd think. The canyon runs north-south so you can always find shade on one side or the other. Its at quite a high altitude too. Tip: Take a set of knee pads with you or, better, buy a pair in Glenwood Springs when you're there.

I don't have any good suggestions for summer bouldering I'm afraid. Its going to be too hot for all the really classic stuff I know of around the west coast. I don't know about CO bouldering.

You could go to Canada. I wouldn't go to Canada for the sport climbing though - the best place is probably Skaha and it will be like an oven in summer. I'd take a trad rack and hit Squamish if going north. Either that or go alpine - the Bugaboos, etc are awesome.

Be aware that spending time in Canada anywhere near the National Parks i.e. Banff, is very expensive unless you know how to dirtbag it, and run the risk of being busted by Rangers.

In case you haven't already checked it out, there is loads of good info here:
http://www.mountainproject.com/destinations/

HTH
papashango - on 12 Oct 2013
In reply to Henry Connor:

Check out Tensleep, WY
Henry Connor - on 12 Oct 2013
In reply to innes:
"weird, rounded conglomerate cobble stones"

Sounds a bit different! Worthwhile making a trip over from Colorado then I take it? Steep sounds good. Different to my usual Portland, Dorset or Frankenjura!

"Rifle is the classic sport destination in CO"

You bet. Psyched that you can go in the summer months. I had no idea. That'll be top of the list then. For your info, there's also a great deal of Alpine bouldering there. Not sure about the practicalities of traveling with mat or of reaching finding folk to climb with up there. Something I'll have to have a look at.

"I'd take a trad rack and hit Squamish if going north"

My main reason for heading north would be to seek out friends living it up in Banff so that's that. They have a handle on Climbing and knowing them, they won't be paying!

Cheers for the info; cheers for the link. Good stuff.

Henry
Henry Connor - on 12 Oct 2013
Olli-C - on 13 Oct 2013
In reply to Henry Connor:
We did a cool roadtrip rounf the north western states and Alberta-BC in the summer, below are the main areas we visited we stopped at quite a lot of smaller places on the way too.
Tensleep is amazing though and perfect in the summer, The shooting is a bit wierd. I'd keep an eye on the situation but I wouldn't discount it straight away because of that incident.
There loads of climbing around Banff, Lake louise is amazing climbing on quartzite, good long routes, also places like Grassi Lakes (steep with huge pockets) Acephale, Smith Rocks will be boiling but we managed in it July, by staying very strictly to the shade (which is actually quite easy). Also look at Wild Iris and Sinks Canyon near Lander WY (you can camp for free in the town park for 1 week I think) Sinks Canyon may be a little hot but Wild Iris is high altitude and could be a good shout. (The positioning of Sinks on the UKC map is wrong its actually just north of lander by about 10 miles with wild iris being positioned correctly). Squamish is good but seems a but rainyer (we only got one dry day out of 8). I also saw a video about some climbing in Montanna, not super classic but looks good.
I will say again that Tensleep is actually amazing and shouldn't be overlooked.
Olli-C - on 13 Oct 2013
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - on 13 Oct 2013
In reply to Henry Connor:

Ten Sleep is fantastic. Very friendly - don't let that incident put you off.
Dave Kerr - on 13 Oct 2013
In reply to Henry Connor:
> (In reply to papashango)
> 3rd hit on google:
>
> http://www.climbing.com/news/climber-shot-in-ten-sleep-wyoming/

The comments on that page are depressing.

innes - on 14 Oct 2013
In reply to Henry Connor:
> (In reply to innes)
>
> Sounds a bit different! Worthwhile making a trip over from Colorado then I take it?
>
> My main reason for heading north would be to seek out friends living it up in Banff so that's that.
>

Yes, I would strongly recommend going to Maple Canyon in summer. It's not very far from Rifle, you'll probably get better conditions, and as a European (i.e. used to climbing on limestone) you'll find the routes more memorable as its so unique (Riglos in Spain may have similar formations, apparently?).
It would start your trip off with a bang, and shock your arms a bit if you're used to climbing at Portland. Probably best in the 5.11+ to low 5.13 range.

If you have friends in Banff then that area is worth a visit if you can find time <understatement>. If you don't fancy alpine climbing stuff but could stretch to doing a big multi-pitch bolted route then 'Sisyphus Summits' is one of the best routes I've done in the world, and is just around the corner from Banff, above Canmore:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=212039

A 60m rope, 21 quickdraws + some slings, and a good attitude will get you to the top in 12 looooong pitches of 5.10d+, just. You won't find many sport/mountain routes like this in the world.

I






ads.ukclimbing.com
rgold - on 14 Oct 2013
In reply to innes:

A bit more info than just a distant picture:

http://www.summitpost.org/sisyphus-summits-5-10d-21-pitches/544502

"Canmore Sport Climbs" entry: http://tinyurl.com/m7ksul4

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