/ Broken thumb - looking for advice

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amydansja - on 12 Oct 2013
Hi guys.

First post and reason for me joining this forum... Well, I broke my thumb some time ago and didn't realise - I thought the joint was bruised as it didn't hurt all that much and was only swollen a little.

Anyway, the joint is pretty locked up now (not the knuckle but the top joint.) It only moves a little, I would say about 30.

I'm just wondering if anyone has a problem like this in their hands and how it has effected their climbing? I used to climb about 3 times a week and was really progressing, and now I am too afraid to return to the wall.

I know this sounds silly but advice or sharing experiences would really help!

Thank you,
Simos on 12 Oct 2013
In reply to amydansja:

Did you subsequently have an x-ray and/or a dr look at it? Assuming they said that it's ok to use it, exercise etc I would just have a go and see what it feels like. Obviously start with super easy routes that don't involve using the thumb and build up really gradually - I won't be surprised if over time you get more range back.

I haven't got any direct experience but I did have ligament reconstruction in both my thumbs a very long time ago - not the same as your injury obviously but it hasn't been a problem for me. Also about 6 months ago I somehow managed to punch a hold with an open hand while bouldering - went straight to hospital and luckily there was no fracture but one of my knuckles took a long time to come back to normal. Are you sure yours was broken, could it be that there is still swelling there?
jsmcfarland - on 14 Oct 2013
In reply to amydansja:

Get a doctors advice! Xrays are pretty much essential, as you don't know what you are dealing with. Once you know more, lots of stretching the joint and gradually building it up is in order

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