/ UKC Fit Club 347

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grubes - on 10 Nov 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motiva UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or with tional tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (346) thread:

Nick Russell - Well done on wo 7's in a day
Joughton - Well done on 7c+ now get on a 8a and get it ticked!
IainRUK - usual high mileage
Tyler - Whats you goal for spain?
Jimmykay - First 7C in Font stop showing off!
Eagle River - another three sessions at the wall this week? I think you may need to visit your in laws soon if you want some real rock.
mbh - very good mileage but wrong attitude on the swimming!
Mark Torrance - Hopefully a better week
Stevemarkperry - Nice bouldering last week take it was at the wall?
Sankey - Nice week get out on rock this week?
Pork Pie Girl - Get to malham?
Ally Smith - Well done on gettting away from the psycho. Did you get make to careless? (had an ascent yesterday according to UKB)
Luke Owen - Thanks for the font psyche
Exile - Get more climbing in this week?
Mattrm - pinky any batter?
Annak - Ready for your holiday looking forward to your ticklist
Dandan82 - Nice way to build up your climbing but might be worth bringing some thing harder quicker while you are still fresh?
AndrewW - Nice get much done?
Garrouli - get to huntsman?
Tru - Anymore motivation this week?
AJM - Nice week but leaving a beer ...
Ali - Glad you enjoyed the symposium was it worth the money though £60 (I think some one said that much) seems a lot

Biscuit? where was your post?
Nomics in spain I stand by my 3x7b or harder route or I will be disappointed!
heelhookofglory - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers man, yep that was all at the wall. The weather is grim here (except today) so struggling to get out on real rock. The sun is shining today so I'm off out in search but it rained pretty heavily overnight. Stats later when I know what's going on today!
JayK - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

M- 8miles 7min/mile
T- Indoor bouldering ~ 90mins
W- Intervals - 30mins
T- Rest
F- Rest
S- AM 5k parkrun (19:05) PM 10.6k XC (46:45)
S- Rest
Joughton on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: It's not the grade that's holding me back grubes, it's the fact that I can't get to the Tor for multiple sessions! I was pretty lucky to get the two hours there that I had the other day really. Decent week but I would've liked to get out today! Unfortunately it's not going to happen.

Mon - big core workout. Similar to last weeks really, bit disappointed not to feel the same burn the next morning but I guess that means I'm making gains already so I'll have to step it up next time.
Tue - rest
Wed - Rockover bouldering. Another good bouldering session, felt strong and played on the woodie. Finished off with an hour of pull-ups on various holds on the beast makers. Feeling stronger on the smaller crimps.
Thurs - felt absolutely destroyed, everything hurt! Possibly too many pull ups...
Fri - still hurting
Sat - leading comp at MCC. Warmed up on the 6b+, and flashed the 6c, 7a and 7b routes. Knew I'd already done enough for the final so didn't bother with the harder routes. Did a technique masterclass with Steve Mclure which was fun, he seemed to think mine was good enough to be focussing on strength gains rather than technique. Loooong wait in isolation for the final (I qualified joint first so climbed last) and my performance was pretty dissapointing. To be honest the route was too hard, three of the four of us fell off around the same stopper section low down, and one made it a few moves further. So I came second in the adults category which was nice, but it would've been happier (and £100 better off) with first. At least I got a nice new harness out of it!
Sun - depressed doing college work in the nice weather

Cheers, Jake
Banned User 77 - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

m: 14 miles 6:50 pace
t: am: 6.8 miles 7 am at 6:30 pace. pm: 6.2 miles, 5 x 1 k reps
w: 20 miles 6:45 pace
t: am: 4 miles slow. pm: 8 miles 6:50 pace
f: 10 miles on the road steady
s: am: 12.7 mile trail run, 6:14 pace. pm: 2.75 mile jog, stretch and role
s: 8 miles steady
The Ex-Engineer - on 10 Nov 2013
Hi everyone!

I just arrived back in the UK on Wednesday very psyched to get back climbing again, so I thought I might as well start posting here again after a LONG break.

Short term goal - climb lots
Medium term goal - climb multiple routes of Scottish VI this winter
Long term goal - f8a redpoint by March 2015

Thu - bouldering @ TCA Bristol
Fri - rest
Sat - bouldering @ TCA (managed 4 of the new yellows)
Sun - gear shopping
mbh - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Jake, honestly, if every 17 year old in the UK was like you, we'd conquer the world in no time. Don't be depressed, you're amazing, but you've still got to do your college work
AJM - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

> AJM - Nice week but leaving a beer ...

It seemed a fair trade for the 2 bottles of wine we demolished between us and the glass of Laphraoig quarter cask that I managed to polish off ;)

  • Try more E3/4s
  • The Ashes <tick>
  • Ames Low <tick>
  • NEW GOAL - Low Blow <Smashed it!>
  • Make progress on the base levels of an 8a+ pyramid (currently completed 5/8 x 7c, 3/4 x 7c+, 0/2 x 8a, 0/1 x 8a+)
  • "real" V6/7 (power not power-stamina)

<MTG> - 2013
  • Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 10/8 x 7b+, 5/4 x 7c, 3/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
  • 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route) - done The Ashes
  • Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s <So far:12xE3 onsight, 3xE3 flash, 4xE4 onsight>
  • Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b

  • Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
  • E4 onsight - ticked 4
  • 8a before 30
  • 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)

  • Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  • E5 onsights
  • 8a/+ redpoints
  • 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  • Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something

M: Nothing
T: Huntsham. Mint conditions, finally! Repeated my new beta for the finish a whole bunch of times in succession. Then jumped on the link. Smashed it! Or, well, I smashed all the hard bit, then got to the jugs, found I was pumped, and sketched and slapped my way up the topout, which is probably only about 5b and I can usually do totally smooth and static, but I nearly fell off every move, not an enticing prospect by the last ones especially on my own. Sat around, didn't really do anything else. Sort of in a daze, so many sessions boiled down to maybe a minute or two of climbing and a minute of sketching ;-)
W: Rest
T: Tried to go to Wintours. Soaked with runoff. Went to UCR. Fell off so many things, lots of the setting seemed to encourage long last lunges which I seemed mainly to fall off. But I managed a dozen tie-ins, one on a 6b, 5 on 7s (7a+ second go, pitched off the last lunge on a 7a, 2 burns on a 7b) and the rest on 6c/+. Felt better on it by the end, start was a bit piss poor.
F: rest
S: rest
S: Brean. Shorts and tshirts, again. This crag truly is the gift that keeps on giving ;). Anyway lots of runoff from the previous nights rain so ended up on the start of storm warning, which is a useful bit to get wired as its common to storm warning (7c/+), storm warning variation (7c+/8a), Brean topping (8a+/b?) and black snake moan (7c+). Good progress, linked to a good hold below the break twice, and worked the link moves on storm warning variation twice too with improving progress. Fingers shredded by the end though, its sharp!

Had a relatively low volume week, feeling a bit run down but a few days rest and some early nights and I'm feeling a bit more perky again now.

Very very pleased to get Low Blow done. Big time investment, been a bit of a head stress with the dicey conditions of late, and its a cracking linkup too. Also it makes it look like a credible effort at the base layers of an 8a+ pyramid - currently 5/8 and 3/4 with a month and a half left to run - which is some consolation for not getting the 8a tick to finish off the 8a pyramid (which is now looking comfortably overfull in all its lower rungs). Basically, it would have been gutting to leave without getting it done after all the hours put into it.

Good progress at Brean too today. Not sure how to play this next - the variation is probably the best climbing (of the 3 I could credibly do) but is notorious for spitting people off the last hard move of Chulilla high up. The original feels a bit less good by comparison (it avoids an ace few moves by shuffling right to a rest and then doing the whole of the Chulilla headwall instead of joining part way up). And black snake moan is seepy and probably not as good as the others since its a late addition filler in. So there's a part of me which says the variation is the way to roll. But on the other hand it doesn't really fit with my "hard moves" program as well as BSM since its basically a resistance problem, and there's also the "you could get a decent tick easier" thing going on regarding doing the original storm warning instead because I haven't really got that many sessions I'm likely to get on it. And there's Bullworker etc to consider and the retroed thing on the landward end of the beach whose name I can't remember. I think to be fair that the seepage is likely to dictate, as if that's bad or unreliable then Bullworker and BSM are out which narrows my options.
Nick Russell on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:
> Nick Russell - Well done on two 7's in a day

Thanks grubes, what did you get up to this week?

M - Yoga, swimming (2.4km)
T - Climbing at Redpoint. 15 routes: not bad for an evening
W - Swimming (2.2km)
T - Core
F - Fingerboard after a long day at work. Feeling pretty strong, especially on the front 3. In fact, I think this may be stronger than my 4 finger grip (different wrist angle, I guess?), which tells me my back 3 need more work!
S - Climbing at UCR. 25 routes, 15 of which at 6b, mostly tripled-up. Put some 6a+ in there and 30 shouldn't be that hard.
S - Went to Cheddar, didn't get much done.

So not much rest in there, need to put some of that in next week. I'm happy that I'm getting used to a higher volume of routes in my indoor sessions, but looking forward to upping the grade as I just find that (and bouldering) more fun!

Cheddar today was a bit disappointing. I had a go on It's a Kind of Magic, but the feet just before the crux were all wet, as was the crucial undercut. I managed to work a sequence around the wet feet to set up for the crux, and dry the undercut enough to bolt-bolt it. But then I felt so weak on a TR go that I couldn't even do the moves properly in isolation (and I think the undercut had got wet again!). Plus it was getting dark, so called it a day.

Short-term goals (November)
Indoor: 30 routes in a session (at least 20 at 6a or above).
Trad: One of the multipitch Cheddar E3s (Crow, Heaven and Earth Show, Ahimsa, Brainbiter).

Medium-term goals (2013)
Sport: 7a flash. Tick: onsight Raw Deal
Sport: 7b+ pyramid. So far 7/8@7a, 2/4@7a+, 1/2@7b, 0/1@7b+
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some!
Incidental: get a car. Done
Nick Russell on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to AJM:

Nice one on Low Blow! I spotted it on the logbooks earlier in the week, but decided not to leak it here :p
AJM - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

> Nice one on Low Blow!


> I spotted it on the logbooks earlier in the week, but decided not to leak it here :p

Much appreciated...!
AJM - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

I assume you were coming into the undercut from the left with your right hand btw on IaKoM...? And you found the little crimp up and left to make the move up to the jug with left hand easier?
Nick Russell on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to Nick Russell)
> I assume you were coming into the undercut from the left with your right hand btw on IaKoM...? And you found the little crimp up and left to make the move up to the jug with left hand easier?

Yeah, definitely right hand into the undercut. Not entirely sure about the crimp up and left, but there was definitely an intermediate (facing left, pretty directly above the undercut). I think my main problem (wet patches aside) was just tired. The first time, I managed to get into the undercut pretty static, but couldn't replicate that even with exactly the same foot positions etc. later on. I'll come back to it!
AJM - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Ah there's a little straight down crimp up and to the left of the undercut, maybe half way height wise between the undercut and the jug?
Willi Crater - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

M - Resting
T - 30 min run, finger board session
W - Press ups
Th - Indoor bouldering session
F - Several laps of 6b - 6c sports routes outside, press ups, stretching
S - Resting
Sn - Working on 7a+ redpoint project (and failing)
Nick Russell on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to AJM: I think I spotted some chalk around there, I'll look out for it next time. I was having more difficulty getting into the undercut than getting out of it, but as I said, probably just out of gas.
leon on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:
STG: 3 training sessions a week.
MTG (WE 1/12): 5 training sessions in a week.
LTG(2014): Loads of classic routes (HVS to e3) and visit new crags.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Mon: Birthday (wife rekons i'm 39 but i don't believe her).
Tue: Nothing.
Wed: Nothing.
Thu: Nothing.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: AeroCap(30 mins). Repeaters.
Sun: Nothing.

not posted for a few weeks due to chicken pox & then family holiday & then a week of lazyness.

i'm now the grand old age of 39 (i'm kind of worried i might end-up being 40 next year). when i started training a few years ago i decided to stick with it until i was 40 and then decide if it is worth it, so its crunch year.

i failed on the LTG this year by 1 e-point. the irony is that the target was supposed to get me to my first couple of e3's. i got 4 so to that end it was met. Pleased about finally breaking into e3 (its taken 10 years) but disappointed by a very poor performance in the second half of the summer. the poor performance was down to a loss of confidence caused by climbing on some days when i really wasn't in the mood. after this i think i just settled for what i'd already achieved and wasn't really motivated to do more than get out and climb what i felt comfortable on.

seeing as its my 40th year i'm setting my goal not to improve but to get on loads of classic routes & see new crags i've been meaning to for ages. astral stroll, left wall, darius(gulp, if i os this one i want a sticker), cruel sister, lower sharpnose & south pembrokeshire are at the top of the list. the present to myself is that i can squander loads of onsights in the hope i tick a few. the difficulty is going to be getting partners who are happy to get out of the peak.

motivation to train is low. hopefully it'll improve as i build up some mileage.
mbh - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes.

My crappest week for ages. I am not managing to combine a punishing workload with 50+ miles. But it's in the head. I always feel better afterwards; all is not lost, I hope.

M - 5.3 miles
T - 5.7 miles
T- nothing
W - nothing
F - still nothing
S - pathetic 1.5 mile run
S -10 miles, some of it at 7:10 ish, then later another 5 miles.
Tyler - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

STG: Devise a structured training session for finger board and have six such sessions before my trip to Spain at the beginning of December.
MTG: For my (lack of) commitment to training and diet to not be such a source of mirth among my climbing buddies
LTG: To be the best climber in my village!

M: Quick trip to Boulder UK Blackburn with the man-boy and the Hulk. I'd only ever climbed with the latter on routes and it was hard to know who was more appalled, me at his strength in doors or he at my weakness!
T: Left home at 6am and left office at 8pm so all I could manage was an assault on the room service menu. Felt so guilty I forced myself to do the kettle bell workout which just left me feeling sick. It took 30 minutes and although I didn't really feel it the next day I do think it's a good thing to persevere with.
W: Another late evening in the office but manged a 6km run @ 2% incline at very slow pace. Disappointed to have turned into the sort of person that sees a 10k run as a challenge. Managed to be a bit more circumspect with the room service menu which fortunately arrived midway through my kettle bell workout so sacked that off.
T: Travelling
F: Nothing
S: Embarassed myself at the MCC leading comp.
S: Great day at Malham. Expected it to be crowded but just the usual collection of old stagers up on the Upoer Tier enjoying the sunshine and great conditions

Diet: Appauling, working away and many miles on the motorway takes its toll. I also seemed to be the only eating sausage naps between my goes in the lead comp.
Weight: Exactly 11 stone which is the absolute acceptable maximum
Tyler - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

> Tyler - Whats you goal for spain?

It was going to be a long weekend at Margalef but just extended it by a few days to meet up with mates probably elsewhere in Catalunya. For Maragalef I don't have many plans other than to belay my mate on Darwin Dix, after that I'd like to OS 7b+ which has been the unrealised ambition for each of my last few trips
Mark Torrance on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Much lighter week. Partly due to busyness, but partly also because I've got a niggling backside-muscle issue. No idea which or what - it seems pretty complicated up there - and too early for physio.

M: [55.4] 11.4 road run, about 7:40 average
T: [51.3] 4.6 road run
W: [47.3] 4.9 road run
T: [53.3] 6 road run
F: [48.4] -
S: [43.4] 3 road run am, 7.5 cross country race plus warmupdown
S: [37.4] -

First XC race in 30 years. Difficult to evaluate, because time doesn't mean anything and I was never going to be anywhere near the top half (of a very big field). I think I could have gone quicker - I had a bit too much left at the end. And fell shoes were a bit limiting in thick mud.
JayK - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Mark Torrance:

Where was the XC?
Exile - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks for doing fit club grubes. Yep, a bit more climbing this week

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - maybe!

Autumn: HP Blow Out, (E6,) or start winter climbing - whichever opportunity allows first.

This winter - VI 7


M: pm - 45min min road / trail run, 35min general weights
T: pm - 1hr 45min PE traverses at wall.
W: am - 45min road run. pm - 45min road run
T: Rest
F: 1hr 7a traverse endurance reps at bridge
S: Rest
S: 2hrs PE toproping on Red Wall, Trowbarrow

Not a bad week, too wet and cold for head point project, not cold enough for winter yet, see what this week brings!

grubes - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Winter Grit - 7A boulder
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big airFont - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
MTG (June 2014):
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april - Probably november now
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man

This week's goals:
Get some psyche - Sort of tick

M: rest
T: rest
W: rokt 3hours. warmed up bouldering. Lead wall tried the blue to the top dropped last hard move pumping out.
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Drove to almscliff. Well made it to LBA turned around and went to the depot. 2 hours climbing badly not trusting my feet it seemed which is veyry unusual. Took a long time to get going did a few new things ended with almost a full blue circuit (missed out 3/4).
Went to football with my dad. We were crap
S: woke up achey Planned house work and food shopping. Saw it was sunny and sacked it off. Convice house mate to go to almscliff.
Almscliff. Warmed up on warm up wall. Usual traverses and then smeary straight ups to get used to slopers crimps smears and mantels (really useful wall). Then back to flying arete.
Started off with a pretty good go muscle memory was working. but missed the jug. Second go over shot the jug. Quick rest hit the jug right hand on rib. left hand to crimp .. damp slipped off top out again. Went on for a nother 8 attempts of varying success.
Then had a good long rest spotting house mate on underhand. For a bit.
Back down to flying arete fell off the top a few times until body tired.
Back to under hand mate had got the heel to stick and managed the problem in twwo overlapping sections. he did the moves in bits a couple more goies then tried to link it dropping heel hook move each time.
I went for a walk to see if anyone I knew was there. Wacthed a guy trying chisamata (sp?) then back to mate who had been resting. Few more attempted links then he had another decent rest. Tried link again and did it. first 7B+ hardest previous problem was a 7A+. He was happy.
I went back to warm up wall to get moving again. Suddnely realised how thin my skin was on my tips. Three more goes at flying arete. Mind willing body feeble.
Ended the day watching needkraken do a remmeberence day concert at hudd town hall.

Next week Goals:
Flying arete!
Climbe routes in or outdoors

Was great seeing house mate get the tick as he had planned that as a full winter project but with good numbers from some one doing it as a warm up he got it. I just need to sort out the top out for FA. Like My housemate said on the way back if the top out was at ground level and I could work the top out in isolation I would of done in 12 months ago. Its just trying slight refinement after a strong hard move on very steep ground high up on little dinks for feet I am struggling.
Mark Torrance on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Leamington - Birmingham and District League.

And, I'm guessing, (a) you run with BRATs and (b) that I might see you tonight?

pork pie girl - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: no Malham for me .. was planning on going yesterday but got injured on thursday bouldering at the wall and was told to give it at least three days rest before trying gentle climbing for a good few sessions

last week:

sunday - bouldering and intervals on bike in gym.bouldering focussd on power

monday- after work intervals on bike in gym, core, weights, usual pull ups, stretching etc

tuesday- after work bouldering at uni, took longer to warm up as it was busy.. too busy to start working the new problems really, intervals on bike, back to bouldering (quieter) onsighted v4s, fell off the only steep v5,other steep problems are v7-v9s. offer steepish v5 has a dyno move that 6 foot blokes are struggling with. the session got my mojo back though

wednesday- rest

thursday- run up ingleborough/walk back own it, bouldering at uni wall.. injured arm about 1.5 hours into session.. off a two two/three finger pocket.. didn't feel hard or dodgy but sudden pop and pain. (had done the same more about 7-8 times without any issue.. it didn't feel at my limit.. was shocked that i got injured doing it.

pm.. decorating and sulking

friday- decorating and sulking, turbo in garage .. endorphines cheered me up (weirdo that i am) bonfire and fire works with neighbours

saturday- a.m. met mate who kindly offered to look at my injury for me (he's a phyiso) diagnosed more of a muscular issue in wrist/forearm, main pain coming from ring finger on open handed stuff manifesting itself as a shooting pain mainly in inner forearm a few inches above my elbow

pm intervals on bike in gym.. good work rate for 45 mins..then 30 mins on uphill cross trainer, core and stretching

more decorating .. less sulking about arm and decorating

sunday- run up and down ingleborough in the sun and frost, good tues on phone ... perfect :0) ... then 30 mins on bike in gym at steady pace then core

more decorating whilst keep mum entertained.

plans this week: very gentle static bouldering, see how injury is feeling, usual weights and pull ups if not issue with injury, usual carido.. more carido than usual if i can't get satisfying climbig workouts that leave me feeling beasted.

try and finish the decorting of hell fire and ultimate misery! (impacting on my time off)

possibly start building the climbing wall in the garage with Sarah's Dad at the weekend.. if he's in the mood.. ordered wood and it'll arrive this week.. got everything we need now including a mega fat crash mat


Sankey - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: Cheers. No real rock, usual climing partner was away having fun in Spain (lucky so and so), and the usual weather issues applied. Maybe this coming weekend. Had one good session indoors, and got out on bike for the first time in ages, which was great.

T: Matrix: Final go at this months problems, making progress on stuff in high 6's. Aim for next months problem set is to start working the harder stuff earlier and maybe tick something!
S: Road bike - loop under Bamford edge from home - 23 miles 2600 feet, didn't feel too bad despite not doing much aerobic for a while

STG: More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)

MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working

LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession
Ally Smith on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

1st week back on it after deliberately resting after RRG.

Trying to keep busy and avoid any temptation with nut-job ;-)

M - Stretching (pecs in particular) and physio exercises for ankle
T - Awesome walls Stockport - Bouldered most of the green circuit (laughably graded V7!) and some harder stuff on 45. Ring finger feeling tweaky.
W - Wet, so didn't go biking. Tired from previous night, so only 30 pull-ups (3x10) on bar, and 3x20 wide press-ups. Stretching.
T - Fun lap of red at 'degla by lamplight. Slow - 1hr 3min. Sub-hour is std time; sub 50 is possible. Must try harder!
F - Rest
S - Tremeirchion - short session trying 36 Chambers. Felt like i'd worked out some viable beta just as it was getting dark. Finger much less tweaky, but ankles still fecked.
S - Plantation - session of dropping everything at the last hold. Tickled finish of Deliverance, Brad Pit and The Storm. Gareth then insisted we do an hour long pull-up session when we got to his. Sore this morning.

Seeing Consultant about fecked ankle(s) this week; hope he doesn't want to chop me open?

Lattice board assessment with Coach Randall this week too; expect to get beasted.
mattrm - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks for doing DIY club. I really appreciate it.

STG - Finish painting landing and stairs
MTG - Finish kitchen
LTG - Build shed

Paints of coat - 4 (3 more than last week)

M - Fitted scotia in middle room
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Went to this big weird warehouse and spent an hour pulling on small bits of plastic. I think it's called bouldering. I remember doing it a lot more once.
F - Faffed some more with flooring
S - Sanded and filled stairs - put first coat of paint on - then spent some time doing lots of sit-ups.
S - Put multiple coats of paint on bannisters, stairs and skirting board.

Kept to my diet quite strictly. Not sure why I do that. Got lots of DIY done this week. Think the STG will go this week.

I'll do a proper update next week, but after biscuits comment I just couldn't resist. On the upside, DIY club is really nearly over. Once the stairs are done it's just a little bit of work in the kitchen that needs to be done. I'm going to get someone in to do part of that. The shed is an LTG, but I hope to do that in the spring.

Pinky is ok, just tweaked a bit. Easy sesh on Thurs was a good idea. It's too easy to stuff fingers and the like on plastic. One core and one boulder. It's all about maintenance. Lost a bit of weight as well. Down to 12st again. Need to push hard to get this properly lower.
grubes - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to mattrm: good week matt but any flat pack furnature on the go? might be worth varying for max gains?

Also end each session with 5 laps up and down the ladder the gains will show next session

Dandan82 - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:
Thanks Grubes, I'd love to push harder but I did a pretty good job of demolishing my shoulder and there is no way i'm risking a recurrence by jumping in too deep! I've got a long way to go but if 31 years of life has taught me anything, it's that a bit of patience really pays off.
I'm hoping to smash La Carnage at Bas Cuvier in April, perhaps the assis too, so if i'm back up to speed by then I will be happy.

M: Cardio: rower 1km 5 mins 2km 8.48 (pb)
bike: 9km 15 mins
Stretch plus rotator cuff exercises
T: Cardio: rower 2km 8.50
Chest: bench, incline flys, dips, tricep rear raise
Core: L raises, knee raises
W: Climb: 20 min boulder warm up, 5+,5+,6a,6a,6a+,6a+,6b,6b,6b+,6b+
T: Shoulder: seated dumbell press, smith machine press, standing lat raise, machine lat raise, bent over cable lat raise, front barbell raise
Finger/Wrist: deadhangs, reverse wrist curls
F: Rest (read: Finish fitting kitchen)
S: Rest
S: Climb: 5,5+,6a,6a+,6a+,6b,6b+

No problems to report, improvements being made in all areas, and still phsyched to destroy myself every day and suffer the consequences every morning!
mattrm - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:
> (In reply to mattrm) good week matt but any flat pack furnature on the go? might be worth varying for max gains?
> Also end each session with 5 laps up and down the ladder the gains will show next session
> ;o)


I am having a lot of wood for furniture making being delivered next week actually. But no flat pack furniture.

Nick Russell on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Dandan82:
> F: Rest (read: Finish fitting kitchen)

Another one joining the DIY club coup!
Nomics4sale - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Hi grubes, thanks.

Got back from Nik's coaching holiday in Siurana yesterday.

I went out with the intention of getting on at least one 7a each day as an onsight attempt. The first two days were a bit mediocre for me, I was expecting Kalymnos or Blanca style orange rock and big holds but what I got was vertical wall climbing on crimps so onsighting a 7a seemed a dim and distant dream. But by day 3 I was getting into it.

So, summary for the holiday... Not sure if it was onsight or flash (clips were in) but I'll say onsight... I onsighted 2 7as (Viagraman, on a recommendation from Quiddity whilst in Kaly, thanks, and Sonar 05) and redpointed 2 others (Beso de cobra and Jugant amb foc). Also dogged my way up 2 more 7as without redpointing them.

The high point for me was onsighting/flashing Sonar 05 and redpointing Beso de Cobra on the same day. After that it was all a bit downhill in terms of grades and by the last day I was knackered and falling off 6b's.

Good trip and I'm chuffed with 2 7a onsights/flashes. Also made progress in that I managed to push on through some tricksy balancy moves which I would normally think were too hard. And I'm beginning to be a bit less intimidated by the grade.

Nomics4sale - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Tyler:
> (In reply to grubes)

> LTG: To be the best climber in my village!

If you are who I think you are then this could be interesting!!
JayK - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Mark Torrance:

a.) I do
b.) It seems I will! See you this evening.
pork pie girl - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to mattrm, grubes etc re DIY

the best character building exercises are doiung several coats of paints then hacking them off, makinmg sure you take chunks of plaster in process ... before painiting it all over again, filling it, sanding it, painting, scrubbing it etc... all to avoid tiny amounts of the early signs of mould. best doing to at 3.30 in the morning too... really builds endurance.

we're in the process of experimenting with multiple mess ups on a large wall... similar repetition with the coats of paint but make sure you use a really old roller.. infact two old rollers so you have two different and equally patchy finishes..

nothing like making a four day job last four weeks.. very very similar to my red point tactics.
pork pie girl - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: sounds like a brilliant trip again Nomics... onsighting 7a on a regular basis regardless of the style of climbing is excellent... i'd be well happy with that
AJM - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

I'm more interested to find out who the man-boy is; ditto the Hulk
Nomics4sale - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Only just seen your 7bs comment - I failed you grubes!!
pork pie girl - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Dandan82: fitting a kitchen is a bit elite for me... although sarah replaced an extractor fan and insulated our loft and made two boxes out of wood for herb gardens.
Nomics4sale - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

cheers, yeah I'm happy with it.

Sorry to hear about your injury but a muscular issue doesn't sound too bad. Hopefully you'll be alright after a few days off. Doesn't seem to be holding back your decorating. Lucky you.
Mark Torrance on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

I think you were just in front of me on the first lap (and then a lot in front of me after that). Fun race, I thought. Lots of variety.
pork pie girl - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: injury's on the left arm... can't get out of any jobs
thebigfriendlymoose - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> Not sure if it was onsight or flash (clips were in) but I'll say onsight...

Given my freakish build, I'd rate your efforts as better than an on-sight - as anything you saw would only have led you astray!
Nomics4sale - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

ha! Maybe... And I just remembered that I need to fess up to using the tree at the start of Sonar 05. It would have been ridiculously reachy without....
Exile - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Great sounding trip, well done on the onsights!
Dandan82 - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
I operate on the 'how hard can it be' philosophy and charge blindly into these things. By day 3 I really was thinking 'oh god, what have i done' but by the end of the week it was looking like an actual kitchen, perserverence is a wonderful thing.
*Disclaimer* I did pay people far more skilled than myself to do the important bits like plumbing, gas and wiring.
biscuit - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to Tyler)
> [...]
> [...]
> If you are who I think you are then this could be interesting!!

There's only one way to find out......fight !
biscuit - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:
Cheers grubes.

I did bugger all that week hence no post.

Well done AJM, Jake and Nomics.

This week marginally better. I knew they'd be bad weeks. Emotionally and time wise o had nothing to give to exercise. On the bright side the worst is definitely over and I can look forward now and get myself back together again.

I ran a couple of times last week. Good long ones but didn't measure/time them.

Climbed at Stockport yesterday and found a 7b there I reckon I can do. Just one move on it I can't do. I get it 2nd time every time, even after a mimimal rest. Msybe something with setting up for it on lead. If I get that move it should go. If !

Off to Malham tomorrow fingers crossed. Time to pick a perma dry project in the 7b/c range I guess.
mbh - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to DIYers,

For best DIY interval training, try basic plumbing tasks, leaving so long a gap since the last bout that no residual knowledge of what to do remains. You are very likely to manage several trips to B&Q, Homebase etc (probably all of them)in your quest for the bit that fits the other bit that you forgot to bring with you and which anyway they don't appear to have so you buy the wrong bit just in case you were wrong about what bit it was.
AJM - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Cheers biscuit! Glad you're back on an upward trend...
Si dH - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:
Hey Grubes, think we might have spoken on Sunday. Ali & I were at Almscliff on Sunday with a group of other friends of hers from London. We started off warming up on the wall of V2-3ish eliminates over the path from Flying Arete, and I came over to do it using your pads at one point (if it was you). Sorry if that was annoying (!)

Also spent quite a while on Pebble Wall later, which I finally got (with a big roar, so you'll know I am if you were around then!) Awesome problem, but I'm sure it's a letter harder than most 6cs I've done

grubes - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Si dH:
dont worry your not the only one
Ali - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: Love the video! I seem to remember trying flying arete years ago and having commitment issues...shame I didn't get there earlier on Sunday or I'd have had a go (and met you!)

Great effort on Pebble Wall Si - I soooo wanted you to get that problem! Obviously not actually spotting you at the time was the key...

Anyway, what I can remember of last week, which is mainly a haze of stress and sleep deprivation:

M - nothing?
T - planned to run to work - failed
W - planned to run to work - failed. Super quick session at BF (this may have been thurs, I don't really remember) - warm up and fingerboard (7x10secs crimps, pockets and slopers)
T - planned to run to work - failed
F - Drove up to Yorkshire Dales via a traffic jam on the A1 and a supermarket shop for 15
S - Woke up to pretty miserable weather but beautiful location. 11km run around the fells - beautiful, pretty flat route with gorgeous views. got caught in a hailstorm but otherwise made best of day. Ate chocolate cake.
S - Almscliffe bouldering - first time I've had a proper boulder session for years. Predictably got spanked (again) by Yorkshire gritstone. Struggled to warm up then tried pebble wall (v5) with Si. Think I have got the beta sorted, but had a couple of gos which really pulled my wrist so decided to retreat before getting injured. Tried working Dolphin Belly Slap (v6) which involved a lot of falling flat on my back which was fun. Felt totally undoable to start with, but managed to eventually do most of the moves in isolation and think I've got the beta sorted (for me) - feels a long way off though.

Lower back really aching today - not sure if that's because my core was too weak to support back properly on the roof climbing? Probably too much cake :-S

Ali - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Nice work! You should be really pleased with those ticks - hope some of the Kaly onsight practice paid off. And yes, def take the onsight ;o)
Si dH - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:
Oh dear...by my reckoning you did the crux at least 20 times in that video!! Looks like it might might be a mental thing
I assume it was your camera that I almost kicked over as well then...
Si dH - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Ali:
Cheers Ali. Don't think dbs is is too far off for you, once you've stuck that move to the lip you've done the hard part.
Eagle River - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:
Cheers Grubes, trip already sorted for January!

Mon: boulder uk (which makes me the man-boy from Tyler's post). Pleased to get all but 1 V6 downstairs.

Wed: routes indoors, fell from the last move of the hard orange 7b, didn't double up on routes as we had a mate of mine who was a newbie. Wasn't the most intense session for that reason.

Partying in London over the weekend so nothing else done. Should get to malham this Sunday though.
grubes - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to Si dH:
yup it was. I have some on the raw footage saying thanks for pointing that out I almost stood on it probably you.
I was more jealous of your job than you completing the problem tbh.

I reckon I have been topping out wrong. I have been trying to go direct when I should be rocking out left. then going up.
grubes - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to Ali:
Thanks the video was just an idea while at work not wanting to do what I am doing.

if you go back to almscliff there is a really nice low ball problem near demon wall roof which is good to warm up on its a steep roof on a boulder on the right of that bit start sitting at the base and move up on jugs to a awkward top out.

Flying arete is annoying as I only started doing it as a quick tick before I moved on to focus on pebble wall, crucifix low and DBS. That was 15 months ago.
maria85 - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:
Two weeks to report on - just back from Morocco - amazing trip!

Week 346:
M: I'm sure I went for a run or did something this week. And biked a bit. Can't remember when though... and fairly lurgyfied all week.
W: Leeds Wall. Can't remember what I did.
T: Depot. Random bouldering, did some new woods. Generally pretty tired though and left early to pack.
S: Travelling
S: Morocco! Ksar Rock - led a VS 4b corner (lovely) and one pitch of a 3p HS 4b. Nice intro to the area.

Week 347:
M: Scimitar Ridge - 9p VS 5a. Led both crux pitches. Great mountain day out, though hot hot hot!
T: White Domes - did Golden Compass (2p E1 5b) which I've been lusting after since I first saw the guidebook. Led p1 - HVS 5a undercut flake - simply amazing. Seconded the E1 upper pitch.
Then did Auld Lang Syne - 4p HS - led alternative VS 4c start and crux p3. Had been hoping to get on something harder but had to go retrieve a lost camera off this route! Fantastic crag.
W: Dragon Buttress. Did Firesword - gets E1 5b in one guide, E2 5b in the newer - felt pretty tough for E1 but not really in a position to comment on the E2 as I've never done one! Led p2 (HVS chimney) and p4 (crux 5b face then corner). Had a wee slump on the rope on the bottom of p4 but I'm still counting it (ha!) as only one move off the ground and I'd done that move several times by then.... found the face climbing tough and a bit of a mental game, was super chuffed to finish it.
Seconded Avatar, E2 5c (clean! don't manage 5c moves very often...)
T: Black Beauty (4p E1 5b). Didn't lead either 5b pitch - tried one but found the bouldery move at the start pretty hard. Only time I was cold all week too!
F: White Domes again - got on Leaving Las Vegas, a single pitch E2 5c I had my eye on and was apparently a soft touch. Did it, no problems! It was VERY easy for E2, I reckon E1 5b or even HVS, but it does get E2 in every guidebook going so I think I'll take the tick, if only to boost my confidence! It is sustained bridging for 55m so I can see why you'd think it was harder if you didn't like corners...
Then Prince of Persia (4p HVS 5a) - not brilliant. Chimney (ok) followed by line-less and fairly loose faces. Good view from the top though!
S: Tifghelt Col. Led Dead Parrot Crack (VS 4c) then seconded Temptress (E1 5b). Attempted to go find another part of the crag but got bored of bush bashing and climbed some random pinnacle we found en-route. 2p HVS 5a new route - only worth 1* at best though.
S: Griffon Rock. Led Northwest Corner (E1 5b) - really nice, first few moves were fairly steep and above gear, chuffed to get through them. Rest was lovely and easier, though so rope draggy!
Seconded a HS, then led A Profusion Of Protusions (E1 5b), mainly for the amazing name! A steep but safe crack to start was a total fight but brilliant, followed by easier climbing with 2 hard moves in the following 50m to the top - I've been getting used to looooong pitches!

I didn't really have goals for Morocco, but ticked enough E1s to be very happy and sort-of 2x E2s -I'm not sure if I should count these or not though... Already wishing for a return trip, so much amazing rock to climb out there. I generally felt pretty confident climbing too, except for that last pitch of Firesword.

Also feel like I might be finally over the lurgy

Now in to this depressing rainy winter thing....... better get planning another trip...
maria85 - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Definitely take the on-sights - well done!
heelhookofglory - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Ta dude.


Maintain 142 lbs: ~142.4 lbs

Current Focus: Climb every problem at the Very Far Skyline Boulders (The Roaches). Aim: To improve my head on high-ish grit slabs and crack-lines and to improve my slab and crack technique.
The Undercut (Churnet, 6C+/7A)
Old Sloper Problem (Churnet, 7A)
Bonus Goal: Alternative 3 SS (Churnet, pretty high roof finish, 6C)

MTG (early 2014):
Lead any WI route in Rjukan
Be competent at Scottish III by end of 2013/14 season
Get out to the Alps

VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life

This Week:




Warm up cardio and stretch (25-30 minutes)
Core body strength training exercises (30 minutes)
Warm up climbing muscles (20 minutes)
Work boulder (V4–V8) problems (30 minutes)
Work problems to the top, hang for 1 minute at a time on each hold. Wear the weight vest (30 minutes)
Circuit of three boulder problems and try and do all three in a row (15 minutes). Rest 2-3 minutes between attempts
Cool down and stretch (20-25 minutes)



Churnet bouldering session, lovely to be outside on real rock!
Warm up with (10-15) minutes cardio
Stretch for 10 minutes
Warm up bouldering easy (V0–V2) problems (10-15 minutes)
Working single moves and sequences on Churnet V7/8 project (60 minutes)
Cool down (10minutes)
heelhookofglory - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

ps loved your Flying Arete vid on t'other channel. Did you get it in the end?
grubes - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to stevemarkperry:

.... see above ....

The video title was a clue
Banned User 77 - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: Great video... good perseverance.. good luck next time.
heelhookofglory - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Yep I saw it on the other channel first. Hope you get it on your next visit! Rocking right seems like the idea but I've not tried it myself!
Nomics4sale - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to maria85:

Ace trip Maria, sounds like a really good place to go. On my list. You should be really pleased with those E2s. And if I can take the onsight you can definitely take the E2s. In fact, for you there's no question, E2 is the grade in the up to date book so that's the bladdy grade (for both routes)! Loads of E1 mileage too .
Garrouli - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

T: UCR bouldering.
T: Fingerboard - first session in a while so took it easy. Pull-ups on various holds (about 85) and max hangs on various holds and finger combinations (no extra weight). Also did some leg raises - could hardly manage any!
F: TCA - did the new yellow curcuit - (V2-v6 I think). Did about 75% of them - the remainder felt hard.
S: Brean with Andy. Warmed up on Chepito and then tried the start to numerous routes in the 7c+ to 8a+ range (as already mentioned by Andy). Tried about two year ago and was still struggling with the same move. I actually managed to do it quite easily on a couple of attempts, but that was one in ten goes which isn't a good percentage! What I need to do is try to work out what I did on those goes when it felt easy - though I have no idea!

Off to the peak for the first taste of grit bouldering of the season - and the forecast actually looks good!!!
maria85 - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: Nice video, that gave me a good giggle You'll get there...
pork pie girl - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to biscuit: hiya biscuit.. what were conditions like at malham today (not that I can climb there for a few days with this injury malarky)
pork pie girl - on 12 Nov 2013
In reply to maria85: trip sounds brilliant and some cracking ticks
grubes - on 13 Nov 2013
In reply to stevemarkperry: Its just a bitch of a move the crux is latching the juggy pocket below the top but I am tired by the top. It will go soon its just a slight change in what I am doing and I will get it.
grubes - on 13 Nov 2013
In reply to maria85: Glad you liked it. Well done on the trip sounds awesome its definately on my places to go.
JayK - on 13 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

How do you stay so calm? I would have launched my chalk into the field after the first half!
grubes - on 13 Nov 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
It was a zen thing, keeping my inner peace to aim for another attempt .......

Nah thats all bullshit. I was fuming if I slowed down some of the facial expressions and keep in the voice it could be a different video.
biscuit - on 13 Nov 2013
In reply to maria85:

Great trip maria.

It's an awesome place isn't it ?

We did golden compass too. What a line !

And so many more to do.
Eagle River - on 13 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

After watching that I can't remember how I did the top because, if I remember correctly, it's hard to get to the half height pocket but once matched on that it's essentially over.

Could be remembering that wrong however, it's been 5 years since I last climbed at almscliff.
Si dH - on 13 Nov 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

No, you're right.

Sorry Grubes. But more positively...juggy pocket? Surely you shouldn't need this, you should be able to turn your right hand in to a palm down at the bottom of the top arete once you have rocked up a bit on your left foot, then just stand up in balance...you don't really need any holds up there. Try it.
Luke Owens - on 13 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: Cheers grubes!

Apparently I now have 4.9% body fat, according to the weight management thing in work.

On-sighted my first 7a this week albeit indoors...

12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips

Rock Ring Pull Ups:
L: 10reps M: 10reps S: 4reps
L: 10reps M: 10reps S: 4reps

3 x 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
3 x 12 Bicep Curls (15kg)
10 Leg Raises

12 Wide Grip Pull Ups, 10 Dips

6 x 10 Offset pull-ups

4 x 10 Leg Raises
4 x 10 Front Shoulder raises (10kg/12.5kg)

12 Wide Grip Pull Ups, 10 Dips, 10 Press Ups, 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg), 10 Ez-Bar Curls (20kg)

Weighted Deadhangs:
Progressive Set -
5kg - 10 secs, 7.5kg - 10 secs, 10kg - 10 secs
2 mins rest between sets)

Main Set -
12kg - 8 secs,
3 x 10kg - 10 secs
(2 mins rest between sets)

8 Weighted Explosive Pull-Ups (5kg)

Super Set -
3 x 12 dips
3 x 20kg Ez Bar Curls

Shoulder Shrugs:
60kg - 10 reps, 80kg - 10 Reps, 90kg - 10 Reps

BoardRoom Indoor Wall -

30 Minutes Aerocap

6a+, 6b+, 6c, 7a (Onsight)

Failed on -
Steep 6b+ on jugs 3 times
2 7a on-sights
Another steep 6b+ at end of session

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Utopia Boulder

Repeated The Groove SDS (6B+), and ticked Utopia Central (6B+).
Came close on The Pebble (7A!) I have beta now so keen to get back.

Tried King of Drunks (7A) again but it was wet and I still find the first move nails.

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