/ UKC Fit Club week 354
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (353) thread:
Eagle River - Sounds like a good week for tidying up stuff indoors. See you in Spain!
Nick Russell - one last blast before Christmas! Sounds like a good mothership session
mrchewy - if you head out in the van you'll have to let us know! Good work on the V3. Redpointing can often be more satisfying on unobvious stuff (ditto flashing things) because it means you don't have the frustration of being spat off by trick moves...
AndrewW - good progress on the project - did it go this week?
IainRUK - how long til the toe is fully fixed?
mbh - over half done - what news of the rest?
Jamming dodger - I've probably done more eating and no exercise so you're beating me! Glad your year has perked up so much!
hms - sounds like some good sessions. One of my pieces of sage wisdom for the year, shamelessly cribbed off Ally who also acquired it from elsewhere, is "if you've fallen off a move twice on redpoint, work out an improvement to it"
stevemarkperry - hope it all goes well for you in 2014!
Joughton - bet you're glad the interviews are all over! Hopefully see you in Chorro
Sankey - good session
Nomics4sale - if you can (nearly) do it in a session it's too easy ;-) Enjoy Spain
mattrm - I know what you mean about the darkness this time of year, horrible isn't it
Mark Torrance - frustration! Hopefully it will be worth it in the long run...
JimmyKay - we like new toys ;)
Tyler - I'm more consistent than you, I climb and drink like an alcoholic :-)
grubes - enjoy font
DanDan82 - rest week
Ali - rest week. See you weds?
Ally Smith - solid week. How do these Austrian laps work then?
The NewNickB - improvement at least. How did this week go?
Exile - basic aero endurance should usually come before power endurance in a training cycle. And from what I remember you are aiming for like V7 and 7b or something which suggests its more likely a fitness issue - there are lots of Uk 7bs which probably have cruxes that are V4 or so. But then I seem to recall you can hang around on aero circuits all day too. So I don't know, really, sounds like its something else, tactics or time on route or something...?
maria85 - quiet week
porkpiegirl - solid week, and everyone needs something to aspire to!
ERU - nice one on the M7!
Luke Owens - good progress at Nesscliffe
biscuit - flashing V5 is good going. Enjoy Spain!
rockaddict - good busy week
Not much for me this week - busy saying our goodbyes and tidying up the final bits of packing and admin and things.
Managed my first good session at the biscuit factory, did 2 V5s, spent some time trying something on the easy end of the V6-9 circuit (so V6/7?), made some progress but couldn't get the weight onto my foot for the penultimate move. Got more tired after that, failed on a few more V5-ish things. Good session though.
Leaving Thursday, so it's entirely possibly this is my final Fit Club in a while. I've no idea how regularly we will be online, and to be honest I don't think that just posting a list of the stuff I've been climbing is really what fit club is there for anyway. I'll check in every now and again I'm sure, and if I tick my 8a before 30 I'm sure you'll hear about it. But in the meantime I have a blog linked from my profile - http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk - which anyone who is interested can use to track our progress. It also links to my fiancťes blog, which will be better written, with better photos, and feature less whining about sandbags, skin and conditions! There's not much relevant on either of them at the minute mind you, but there will be eventually.
All the best for some 2014 crushing.
All done. A second brutal week in a row of over 80 miles gets my 2013 total to 2504m, with almost 52k of ascent.
Mon 10.0 miles
Tue am 10.5 miles, pm 4.6 miles
Wed 10.3 miles
Thu am 10.0 miles, pm 5.2 miles
Fri 8.0 miles
Sat 9.6 miles
Sun 14.3 miles
Total 82.5 miles, 1780 m ascent.
It's a really nice feeling that I set a challenging target two weeks ago and have actually done it, but it has been quite a fortnight. People who can keep up this sort of mileage week after week must have very strong legs and even stronger will power.
Have a great trip Andy!
Goal: 7a/7a+ onsights in Spain
Mon: Indoor routes
Rest of week: Illness, gluttony and inactivity.
Good routes session on Monday, ditched the doubles and went for redpoints with Tyler. Performance levels stayed pretty high between attempts, had 4 good goes on the new hard 7c, on which I can finally do the 2nd to last move and I reached that point from the floor for the first time. Ticked off a 7b+ I'd not done and scraped my way up another 7b+ (That i'd already done) after about 6 other hard routes. Also got through the crux of the pink 7c late in the session before falling off which was a surprise.
Annoyingly got a cold on christmas eve which ruined plans to climb today and might mean I don't climb until Saturday next week, by which point i'll be weak as a kitten. Going to see how I feel tomorrow, hoping for a boulder after work.
Thanks for doing the stats! Yeah, a pretty good session. The Christmas laziness set in this week so not much to report, but here we go anyway
M - Nothing
T - Climbing at Shrewsbury wall. It's one of those 'corner of a sports centre' wall, so not particularly extensive, just bouldering and top roping. I was there with a mate who hadn't climbed before and we only had one harness between the two of us, so I used a sling-job! Can't imagine that being allowed anywhere else, but it was completely unsupervised so we got away with it. Anyway, kind of fun, but not a real training session!
W - 7km hill run, about 400-500m ascent I think. I was there huffing and puffing, chasing my brother who's way fitter than me! (Qualified for European age group triathlon next year!)
T - Nothing
F - Nothing
S - Bouldering in the peak - Ramshaw and Newstones
S - Probably nothing, will update if I get off my arse at all. Actually I feel sore enough after bouldering yesterday that I could probably justify putting today down as 'rest' instead.
Bouldering yesterday was ace - my first real grit bouldering session and perfect conditions! Flashed Press Direct (6B) at Ramshaw and was so close to getting the sit start (7A on here but probably more like 6C/+) - fell off the last move (which I'd already done on the standing start) twice. Never mind - something to go back to... Also climbed Ripple (6B) at Newstones, cool problem!
My skin is very sore now, and I shredded my right hand coming off Press Direct (hand jam in, lost all other points of contact). I think I could improve my bouldering quite a lot purely with better tactics/approach. I was just sort of throwing myself at everything, very reminiscent of my sport climbing before this summer. Also, I need to learn to land on the mats, I think I missed them more often than not, including one fall from 3m onto my arse! One of my spotters kind of caught me, so no damage done.
It looks like winter climbing is going to have to compete for my time with grit bouldering this season.
Short-term goals (December)
4 fingerboard sessions before 21/12. 2/4, failed on this front but bouldering compensates a bit.
Bouldering: Find out roughly where my current limit is (grade-wise) on the mothership at TCA. 6C goes pretty quickly indoors. I seem not to be too far off that outdoors too, which is nice. I reckon I get to 7A (at TCA at least) pretty soon.
Trad: It would be nice to get one more 'big tick' before Christmas. Tick! Crow, Cheddar
Medium-term goals (2013)
Sport: 7a flash. Tick: onsight Raw Deal
Sport: 7b+ pyramid. Managed 7/8@7a, 3/4@7a+, 1/2@7b, 1/1@7b+. Top level ticked, a few missing on the base.
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some! Tick! Wings of Unreason (E4), Arms Race (E4), Last Slip (E3), Crow (E3)
Incidental: get a car. Done
Thanks for the input. Two areas to work over the next few months:
Loose a stone. I'm certainly not a fat lad, but I recon I've got about a stone to loose if I really try. I've been procrastinating about this for a year, but have made gains without doing so, however I feel I've hit a bit of a wall now so this seems an easy, (if I can give up cheese!) win.
Training wise going to work on fear of falling when on bolted crags / routes wall, as this can only help.
At wall going to work on increasingly 'butch' endurance / power endurance as I'm reasonably good on vertical fingery stuff, (where I can hang on, relatively speaking, for ever),
Going to drop the V7 goal - I'm not really a boulderer, so if it happens it happens.
Goals for coming year:
STG, (Jan - Mar):
Down to 11.5 stone, 9going to get a scales that also measures BMI and reduce this too.)
VI 7 this winter
MTG, Apr - August):
HP Blow out, (E6 6a)
Lead some E3s
Weigh in: 12.5 stone
M: pm - 45min road run
T: am - 45min road run
T: am - 2hr road run
S: pm - 1hr E traverses at wall - good session, left really pumped
S: am - 1hr TRing on Red Wall - E reps on Limestone John, (E3 5c) which felt fine once fingers had warmed up, felt chuffed with this given good session yesterday
Not sure... not a bad week, trained every day and foot felt OK on a hike today... hip and ankle bone very sore from 2 road ride unintentional dismounts.. aka.. crashes.
m: 1 hour exercise bike 21.5 miles
t: 1 hour exercise bike 21.5 miles
w: 15 mile road ride Drumtochty glen.. pm: 8.5 mile mountain bike ride
t: 43 mile road ride, Fettercairn>Stonehaven>Clachen>Cairnamount.. nasty slip at a corner on black ice.. car stuck in the trees should have been a warning.. hip, knees, ankle bone, elbow took the brunt.. scary as wasn't wearing a helmet..
f: 1 hour exercise bike 21.5 miles and 15 mins elliptical
s: 31.2 mile road ride glen esk... hit gravel and off at a corner.. hip now raw
s: 7 mile hike Clachnabenn
Thanks for doing fitclub.. last one of 2013... incredible that this is now at 354..
Cheers for doing this Andy. I am mega jealous and will add your blog to my favourites, which is currently full of friends and family off travelling all round the world. Don't put too much pressure on yourself to bag every route and make sure you enjoy every bit of it.
During the festive period and friend and I decided to run three half marathons. It started to complete a strava challenge, but then we thought we may as well up the anti. Also went climbing yesterday and surprisingly felt really strong. Ticking off all of the hardest circuit at bbc bar one.
T - half marathon 2/3 13.3miles (7:39min/mile)
W - fooooood
T - fooooood
F - half marathon 3/3 13.9 miles (7:25min/mile)
S - climbing lots of v6-8 indoors
S - chilled out. Rare lazy day. Loving it.
Marathons generally felt easy paced and considering we weren't really taking them seriously with the weather conditions, the hills and the road crossing I'm pretty certain I could run at least sub 90 at the moment. Not that that's the ambition.
If you can do that in training than dropping 30 s/mile is very very feasible.. probably over 45 seconds a mile quicker is possible.
Amazing isn't it - just had a look back and aside from holidays I've been comtributing since week 25 now! 329 weeks..... You've been in since day 1 pretty much haven't you?
Cheers JK! (And mbh and others too...)
Very excited. Really looking forwards to it. A chance to really get good at the things I don't get to do as much (onsighting in particular, and tufa). Santa brought me a Swiss Extrem guidebook for Christmas too so looking forwards to some immaculate pre-alpine multipitch stuff over the summer too. And the dollies. And orco. And........
I think so, just doesn't feel like its been a good 7 years.. Good luck for the trip. Is the blog live? Link didn't work then?
It is, yeah. In fact according to the stats the blog management screen lets you see this thread is my highest source of visitors so far today :)
Not a terribly busy week, unsurprisngly. Did get 3 good sessions in.
Tues: 10 routes at UCR in singles. First time I've done a session like that in ages. 6a+ 6a 6b+ 6b+ 6b 7a 7a 6b 7a 6b. Didn't top any of the 7as but got to the final move on 2 of them and the final clip on the 3rd.
Weds; brisk 3 mile walk to stop arteries furring up after large lunch!
Fri: Redpoint so rough walls and slopey holds. 10 routes in singles, inc a 6c flash. Tried to project a 7a+. Can do the first half, then there is a move where I appear to need to levitate, then it gets hideously fingery. Needs some work/inspiration.
Sun: circuit boards at TCA wit Kate. Did ~12 circuits starting v easy and then up to a gruesome 7a that we neither of us could get more than half way round, then back down the grades again. 1 on, 1 off so v fast turnaround as a stamina thing.
Following week looks like it might be a bit thin on sessions. Have absolutely no idea when I'll next get on rock but a lot of weeks away I suspect.
Cheers mate! Pretty chuffed with this week considering it's been quite sociable too. It's easy to pop out on the bike for a couple of hours whereas disappearing off across the Peak for a climb needs a little more planning.
Weight is on the good side of my target, which again, over Christmas I'm mega chuffed with. Currently evaluating medium- and long-term goals now I've sorted out my business.
Maintain 142 lbs: 141.6 lbs
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
Any winter walking and climbing
A grit 7A
MTG (early 2014):
Be competent at Scottish III by end of 2013/14 season
Get out to the Alps
Dream of White Horses
JuvsÝyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life
30mins turbo session
1hr mountain bike ride
1.25hr mountain bike ride
1.5hr walk at Burbage South
1.5hr bouldering at Apparent North
A great day out, probably my best day on grit this year, loved it and felt the psyche!
Mostly easy high / micro routes but also worked a 6C and a 7A for a while.
30mins walking my bouldering mat around trying to get psyched. Ready for a rest day I think.
Thanks Andy! Will try and get along Wed...depends on how gingerbread house building goes :o)
Eventually made it to the wall this week - I think I hadn't actually been for 3 weeks?! Shocking state of affairs.
M - 45 min run through forest, mix of 'terrain' (i.e. bramble bashing) and footpaths
T - nothing
W - 40-45 min run up hill and through forest. Burnt off by my 60-yr old dad... felt tired
T - nothing
F - Harrogate wall, 9 routes up to 6b and some time on the circuit board. Felt good to be back training.
S - 8 mile walk round Wharfedale.
Thanks for doing fit club.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 8lbs
M - rest
T - fingerboard
W - run
T - rest
F - rest
S - rest
S - trad @ Pennard
Nice to be out today. Did two routes, both basically Severe. Took ages on one and then was quick on the other. Glad to be out climbing. Managed to get a run in. Need to hit the diet this week. Hopefully I'll get a nice walk on New Years Day.
M: 6km run followed by session at wall. Tried to redpoint ER's warm ups to no avail but must have tried hard as felt battered the next day.
T: Forced myself out for another 6km run as a damage limitation exercise in anticipation of Christmas over eating.
F: 7a and 6c+ on sight
S: 2x 7a+ onsight and tried to retro flash a 7b I'd failed on before but didn't get as far
S: 2x 7a+ on sight
Currently on a short trip to Costa Blanca where, for the first time ever, I'm having to think of someone else's climbing before mine so only managing a couple routes at the end of each day. Lots of eating being done as well. One more day to go and I'd like to get on something harder but as its fourth day on I may just sack it in favour of shopping
Got a couple of training sessions in this week and finally got my climb on yesterday, albeit only indoors, but I let myself have a bit of freedom and just tried whatever I wantd which was positive, especially as I didnt injure myself further!
M: Chest; bench, incline press, flat flys, dips, dumbell tricep raises
T: Core; crunches, leg raises (burning off the turkey)
S: Climb indoor; 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c, 6c, 6c, 6c+, 7a+, 7b, 7b.
None of the 7 grade attempts were clean but I got up the routes eventually which was quite pleasing, it seems like good mileage but my little local wall is very, very short so it's not really all that much actual climbing.
Elbows felt good, i've been doing a forearm stretch whenever I can, hoping it will be a solution for my elbow issues, they seem happy so far so I will have to see what hapens when I turn up the intensity.
STG: just want the weather to break so we can go outside!
MTG: 2014 is the year of the 8a (at least)
Have you got one in mind? Not a Portland horror show I hope?
More miles, but still short on target.
STG (December / January): Consistent 45 mile + training weeks, weight below 71kg. Make the most of whatever conditions we get this winter and get out climbing ice and mixed. I am also trying to adapt to follow the principles of Matt Fitzgeraldís 2 Rule Diet, which is basically about ensuring a get enough high quality carbs without over eating, should be straightforward, but complicated by rarely eating at home at the moment.
MTG (February / March / April): Consistent 55 mile + training weeks, weight below 69kg, Ĺ Marathon personal best (currently 1:28:06, which is soft, mainly because I donít run Ĺ marathons very often, I ran 1:26 during a 20 miler), Manchester Marathon, improve on this year, ideally under 3 hours. Make the most of whatever conditions we get this winter and get out climbing ice and mixed.
LTG (Rest of 2014): Maintain momentum with the running, concentrate on speed through the Summer, go sub 18 for 5k and sub 37 for 10k. Do more on the bike and maybe do one of the Big Swim events.
M - 11 miles slow.
T - boozy.
W - boozy with only a 2 hours walk on local hills as exercise.
T - boozy with only a short work on local hills as exercise.
F - 8 miles road, steady.
S - 13 miles in the hills, steady but felt hard.
S - 8 mile easy social run in the hills with a big group from my club.
40 miles running with a big gap of three days whilst I enjoyed Christmas, not so bad really.
Monday..turbo, core, two hour bouldering in garage. Great session, able to pull on smaller holds with dodgey injury once warmed up properly
Tues..turbo , core, bouldering on garage. Worked on power, using a range of holds then power endurance circuits
Wed..early morning run up ingleborough..perfect weather
Thursdays..turbo in garage for usual.45 mins. Family stuff. Pm run up ingleborough then more family stuff
Friday..turbo in.garage, core long bouldering session..power then pe circuits for an hour
Saturday..kendal wall routes hand sore..took.from 10am into 3pm for it to stop being painful when clipping off that side..pity I was too tired to do anything to best my high point on my . Pm bike and cross trainer in gym at wall
Sunday.. Am turbo in garage then kendal wall..wee bit tired..usually high point on project, improvements on other routes.. No problem with hand or,wrist.. Think bouldering in garage might be helping ..but need to take anti inflams first thing in the morning to get swelling down first.
Haven't had a day off exercise for about three weeks so sat on.net backside all day today..back to it tomorrow
Thanks for the summary. Quiet week, but managed:
M - Resting.
T - Resting.
W - Outside, red-point attempts on project. Close but no big cigar.
T - Resting.
F - Fingerboard session.
S - Resting.
S - Lots of push ups, core and flexibility exercises.
Also eating a drinking way too much despite promise to self not to.
What is "turbo"?
Had a great week, really didn't expect to have such a great day's bouldering after over eating at Christmas! First V7/7A+, I said at the beginning of the year I wanted to tick one but I really didn't think it would happen!
Wednesday: Eating Loads
Thursday: 2.5 Mile Boxing Day Walk
4 x 25 Pressups
30mm Edge - 27 secs hang
20mm Edge - 5sec, 6sec, 5sec, 5sec, 5sec
35's Slopers - 5sec, 5sec, 5sec, 5sec, 6sec
10kg - 30mm - 3reps, 5reps, 4reps, 5reps, 5reps
Ab Session Cut Short:
Saturday: Brisk 2 mile walk.
Sunday: The best days bouldering I've ever had! Went to the Griben Facet in Ogwen Valley with a strong team.
Started off repeating "Red Sky Wall" 6C then took 3 goes to do the 7A+ sit start. First of the grade for me! Psyched!
Did another crimpy problem called "Slanted.." gets 6C/+ in the guide on UKC it's down as 7A, did it in about 4 goes.
Went over to the Pit and managed to do "Pit Start" 6C/+ at the end of the session. Had to try hard as I was knackered!
Great way to finish off the year!
A turbo trainer. It's a gadget you attach to your bikes wheel so you can 'gor for a ride' without moving. Loads of pictures of them on google. Bit like a rolling road for cars.
You're not the only one on here, I think I'm going after 8a in 2014 too... And AJM and ppg, right? I think biscuit and Luke Owens mentioned it on the "2013 roundup" thread. That makes 6 of us, "UKC 8a club", anyone? :p
While I'm not going to say 'I'm trying for 8a'. I'm going to say 'I'm really going to focus on 'climbing hard'' and going to see how far single minded focus can take me. Which is mainly based off this quote from one Mr S. Haston:
ďTrain hard, rest, donít eat. Itís a power to weight thing. In fact itís a weight to powerful fingers thing. Itís not rocket science. Laurence went from F6a to F8a+. Any man or woman can climb F8a within a year in my opinion. All they have to do is everything in their power to do that and not get injured.Ē
The hope is that I won't get injured and will improve my sport/bouldering grades a lot, which will mean I can start doing the harder trad that I'd like to do.
Cool, it will be good to see how we all get on! I've heard the "anybody can do 8a in a year" thing too. I think you've put your finger on the most important thing straight away: don't get injured. That's probably going to be the biggest challenge for me, I have a tendency to go at things too hard, too fast (see all my running angst last summer :p).
When earned And deserved,
I'm also going to enjoy my other sports too but i'm going to use this winter to completely saturate myself with making difficult clips on indoor routes..to help me get perspective on how i'm actually not blowing out of my backside and have plenty of strength to hold on whilst clipping anything i've done so far outside... Hard clips are my greatest draw back and i'm tackling the problem ..
Ef off difficult clips ..you don't worry me! *shadow boxing lion from the wizard of oz* put em up..put em up!
Until you've fallen off with a hand full of rope you haven't found your limit!
I did that once. It resulted in a trip to A&E, 2 months off climbing, and I still have a 'dent' in my bicep... I expect it can be done without that lot though.
STG Tin Of 7b at the tor
MTG Probably the same routes
LTG [2 years] 7C hopefully Wild in Me
Mon Rope Race routes and bouldering
Tue Raven Tor first three clips on Tin Of
Thursday Newstones bouldering
Sat Clifftop boulder 2 new 6c onsight
If less entertaining...
Not specifically but Portland is my local crag so it is pretty much my only option if I want to project something.
I've already got some miles under my belt on Fighting Torque at the cuttings (Under Duress 7c+ next to it is my hardest climb to date) so that seems a good option plus it's generally considered soft for 8a which ups my chances a little. I think perhaps it is 8a direct but softer if you wander a little, as some sequences i've seen wander massively whereas some old old beta I have indicates a direct line. Anyway, if that goes well I would like to try Breathing method which is apparently a much harder 8a, if I can get that then I would be very pleased with myself.
8a in a year from a standing start is certainly do-able if everything is in place and everything goes well, I only need to get from 7c+ to 8a but as climbing is my pasttime and not my job, I still think I could struggle!
Thanks for doing FC again.
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time.
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: pm - 3hrs Kendal Wall, session got better as it went along, got a few 6cs and a 6c+ onsight which I was reasonably pleased with given it was the third day of climbing training.
T: pm - 1hr 10min fell run
W: am - PE at wall. Worked red / black traverse - 6c+ wall grade, probably 7a+ real grade. Fell off crux several times but made progress
T: am - 45min fell run, felt ploddy
F: pm - 1hr 30min at wall. Got red / black traverse on third attempt. Started working black traverse - 7a wall grade, probably 7b real grade?
S: 1hr 30 E on Red Wall. Poor session as hands cold and there were three of us so too long between goes
Sunday weight. 12 stone 1 down from 12 stone 6 last Sunday.
Pleased with weight loss, pleased to have a plan for the first part of the year, pleased with red/black traverse at wall.
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