/ rjukan conditions anyone..?

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cliff shasby - on 29 Dec 2013
Had a quick look and cant find any info on conditions at rjukan this year apart from on dec 8 there wasnt much in....
Any info appreciated.

cheers cliff...
In reply to cliff shasby:

Some one said in the Laerdal thread that it's rubbish currently.
machars on 29 Dec 2013
In reply to cliff shasby:
Was speaking to a local the other day who said it wasn't good at the moment with warm temps and very little ice about but will come in quick when temp drops.
cliff shasby - on 29 Dec 2013
In reply to TobyA:
cheers,had an idea it was crap,hope its better in 3 weeks time..!
cliff shasby - on 29 Dec 2013
In reply to machars: I hope it comes in quick when the temp drops...:-)

neilwiltshire on 30 Dec 2013
In reply to cliff shasby:

Did you ever find anyone for your trip Cliff? I had a broadcast put out to the GMC but no response so far I'm afraid.
cliff shasby - on 30 Dec 2013
In reply to neilwiltshire:
No we didnt,and it seems a very poor start to winter in norway too this year,and there dosent seem to have been much interest in rjukan on the forums either.
Hope all is well and thanks again for trying :-)
n-stacey - on 30 Dec 2013
In reply to cliff shasby:

yhm.
wbo - on 30 Dec 2013
In reply to cliff shasby: yr.no and storm.no both give weather forecasts in detail for Norway tho' they tend to be predictions for the valley. Better than nothing though

Littleslip - on 30 Dec 2013
In reply to cliff shasby:

I'm game for a Norway trip if somebody's looking for a partner
WILLS - on 30 Dec 2013
In reply to cliff shasby:
Think the "old school hostel" have a conditions report on their web site. Google them. Sure if you email them they will be more than happy to give you an upto date forecast as well.
ollie_s - on 31 Dec 2013
In reply to cliff shasby:

We're in Rjukan right now, not much ice about apart from Krokan and Gaustatoppen. Today was a little too warm even at Krokan, but the past couple of days have been OK for cragging. None of the large multi-pitch routes in Rjukan centre are in condition as far as we can see, and the ice falls in the upper gorge are thin (unprotectable). The first pitch of Sabateurfossen looks formed, but the rest isn't really there.
Apparently a little further north in the Valdres valley is in good condition, but we haven't been up there ourselves.

The climb inn looks closed, I think they're not posting updates because they have nothing to report unfortunately.
cliff shasby - on 31 Dec 2013
In reply to ollie_s:
Thanks..im just hoping it sorts itself out within 3 weeks otherwise we'll have to sack it.
I think this is the 9th year for me in rjukan and ive never seen it anywhere near as crap as this for the time of year,wtf is going on with this winter.

alan1234 - on 31 Dec 2013
In reply to cliff shasby:

For conditions these are usually the best sources

The Tinn climbing club:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/118510158161538/?fref=ts
The Old School hostel:
https://www.facebook.com/rjukanoldschoolhostel?fref=ts
(website down but the hostel is open all season)
Climb inn - https://www.facebook.com/climbinnrjukan?fref=ts
Fjellogpadleskole - https://www.facebook.com/Fjellogpadleskole?fref=ts

For a weather forecast this is considered the best for the area - http://www.yr.no/place/Norway/Telemark/Tinn/Rjukan/long.html
(remember Krokan is 700m higher than the valley though for example, although weather inversions are very common)

This is krokan 2 days ago - https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=784640061562363&set=p.784640061562363&type=1&the...
cliff shasby - on 31 Dec 2013
In reply to alan1234: Aww man that pic is horrible,i just cant believe its so bad for the time of year,one year there was a couple of places where the river could be seen but ive never seen it like that.

Thanks for the info,never knew about the tinn climbing club...:-)

Conditions dont sort themselves out its gonna be the alps.


gilliesp on 31 Dec 2013
In reply to cliff shasby:

Is there anyone out there that has been to Rjukan at end of January and found conditions seriously crap? A history of the bad years would be interesting. Due out there for a few days end Jan /beginning Feb.
ollie_s - on 01 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

I'm not sure where exactly in Krokan that is, but for most of the crag the river is frozen. Here's a couple of photos I took from earlier this week (Bullen area):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1jdhqasm1pd00gg/2013-12-31%2010.14.28.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2n475sjovot9pfk/2013-12-29%2011.25.12.jpg

Not great, but Bullen, Jomfrau, Kjokkentrappa, Gaustaspokelse + a few more are all climbable, as it's generally been below freezing at Krokan despite the temperature in Rjukan centre. Problem is most other crags aren't in condition...
Misha - on 01 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:
I can only imagine that Rjukan has been getting the back end of the wet but relatively mild low pressure systems taut have been sweeping over the UK. More of the same is forecast for the UK over the next couple of weeks... but I am no expert in these things. Whereas Cogne was pretty good already last week, so if I had a free choice I would head there or elsewhere in the Alps.
cliff shasby - on 01 Jan 2014
In reply to ollie_s:

Cheers for that,dosent look as bad as the other pics.
Wonder what kong is like..?
alexm198 - on 01 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

This is a total bummer, I'm heading out on the 13th so it looks unlikely things are going to improve significantly between then and now.

What else is there to do in Rjukan at the moment? Ski?!
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payney1973 - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:
They had a similar winter in 2011december was crap so we put off until mid jan and it got better, however don't like these winters.
wbo - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby: Yr think it will be +1,+2 in the valley till next wednesday with snow and rain and freezing from then. Gauseltoppen is at -6, -7 all the time

Mr Christian - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to wbo:

WBO are you in Norway ?
Si Withington - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Hi Cliff, hope you're well mate. We're out there shortly after you, so crossing fingers. The forecast looks to get colder and is certainly colder further up the valley (11km west) > http://www.yr.no/place/Norway/Telemark/Tinn/Rjukan_Fjellstue/

Also, this webcam looks more positive, but contradicts one just down the road! I'll go with the snow version thanks! > http://www.webcams.travel/webcam/1312876231-Weather-KROSSOBANEN-LIVE-WEBCAM-Rjukan

Si
cliff shasby - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to alexm198:

Yep thats about it,ant go out on the raz its too expensive..!
cliff shasby - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to payney1973:
I dont think it was as bad as this,although i do remember it,it was the first time i had seen nothing at the lower gorge in nick but the town icefalls were in.
cliff shasby - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to Si Withington:

Yep the webcam in town is like totally depressing..:-(
Si Withington - on 03 Jan 2014
cliff shasby - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to Si Withington:



Yay....! :-)
chris687 - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

We're out here at the moment and will put up a few pics at the end of every day on our Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Into-The-Blue/188824214650230?ref=hl
Oli_31 - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to chris687:

Thanks Chris we're flying out Wednesday and were getting pretty anxious so this has 'given me wings'!
gilliesp on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to chris687:

Where were these shots taken? Krokan? Could you give their names?
jezb1 - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to gilliesp:
Yeah Krokan, I'm out with Chris, check my logbook or Chris's for the names
cliff shasby - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to chris687:
cheers for that,its looking mighty thin compared to what it usually is,but i guess its better than nowt..! :-)
gilliesp on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to jezb1:

And thanks from me. Cheers.
Dave Williams - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to gilliesp:
> Where were these shots taken? Krokan? Could you give their names?

Yes, Krokan; virtually the first section you come to on the descent path. Photos are of 'Gaustaspøkelse' and the RHS of 'Bullen' which is just to its right.

HTH

Dave
Post edited at 21:31
gilliesp on 06 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Temperature set to plummet from 9th Jan onwards, according to long term forecast.
http://www.yr.no/place/Norway/Telemark/Tinn/Rjukan_Fjellstue/long.html
alan1234 - on 06 Jan 2014
In reply to gilliesp:

Looks like winter will finally be in full force.

For other Norwegian conditions I've been up in Hemsedal for the last week but tbh Rjukan is a better bet. There is lots in (although only Haugsfossen for cragging I think) - but unless you have very wide skis for approaches be prepared for some seriously long walk-ins (I was going down to my neck in places breaking trail).
Nick Harvey - on 06 Jan 2014
In reply to alan1234:
Hi Alan, would you mind expanding on that in the other thread on hemsedal and laerdal etc? Any encouraging info would be very very appreciated
Post edited at 22:56
dingbat46 - on 06 Jan 2014
In reply to alan1234:

Hi Alan,

Is the Ice Festival on in Rjukan this year? Struggling to find details of it. Any info is appreciated.
gilliesp on 07 Jan 2014
In reply to dingbat46:

Ice climbing festival 2014
The annual ice festival in Rjukan is held the 21th to the 23th of February

http://www.visitrjukan.com/en/things-to-do/iceclimbing?id=235820&lang=en

cliff shasby - on 07 Jan 2014
In reply to gilliesp:

yep i noticed that,lets hope they have got it right..! :-)
gilliesp on 08 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Their website gives phone number. Would be worth a call.
Si Withington - on 09 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Finally below 0 in Rjukan. Getting super cold too soon. Too cold! http://www.yr.no/place/Norway/Telemark/Tinn/Rjukan/long.html
marzi - on 09 Jan 2014


Any good ski resorts nearby i wonder?
Paul F - on 09 Jan 2014
In reply to steve maher:
Gaustablikk is limited but ok for a day or so.

http://tinyurl.com/qf6d9wf
Post edited at 15:49
Nevis_Ben on 11 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Out here just now until Wednesday.

Krokan had about 4-6 routes to do but the weekend busyness and a bit of a thaw has occurred so conditions not great there.

Gaustatoppen ice falls could be climbed but the tops are banked out with lots of snow so be flexible on anchor choice. Also requires a hard yomp to get to if trail has not already been broken or snows have covered up existing trails.

Upper gorge - Had a look as far as Nedre Svingfoss. All routes require sustained cold to bring into acceptable condition although if you were determined enough you could probably struggle up lettvann.

It is forecast to get colder though but at the mo it's all a bit sparse. Off skiing tomorrow and will have a look at Rjukan centre and reassess gorge also.
jezb1 - on 11 Jan 2014
In reply to Nevis_Ben:

>Also requires a hard yomp to get to if trail has not already been broken or snows have covered up existing trails.



You're telling me! We walked there earlier this week in windy horrible conditions only to turn around once we got there! Our tracks were covered after about 15 minutes so the return was pretty much just as bad :(
Nevis_Ben on 11 Jan 2014
In reply to jezb1:

Yeah. I was properly knackered when I got to the routes. There were 4 of us taking turns of about 10 mins breaking trail and it still took ages. I kept pushing through snow up to my knees/balls!

To top it all the routes were sketchy and not really worth the effort as I'm sure you discovered.

Hope you managed to find something to do.
marzi - on 12 Jan 2014
In reply to Paul F:

thanks for that
Nevis_Ben on 12 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Lots colder here today. Been skiing and it's been -12 up the guasta area. In the valley it has been around -6 or so. Hopefully the routes will have improved for tomorrow.
cliff shasby - on 12 Jan 2014
In reply to Nevis_Ben:

thanks for the info,gonna make out mind up whether to bother going out next sunday in the next couple of days so any further info on conditions in any areas would be very helpful..

cheers cliff...
Nevis_Ben on 12 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Will post over next two nights as leaving on Wednesday.
cliff shasby - on 12 Jan 2014
In reply to Nevis_

Thanks appreciate it..
If possible could you ask how some of the out-lying areas are such as kong vinter/mael etc..any info that might help us actually make a decision..!

hope you get something done between now and wednesday.. :-)

cheers cliff....
Mr Christian - on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to Nevis_Ben:

A conditions report would be great before you leave, I fly out on Saturday, thanks.
Nevis_Ben on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

So, sustained cold snap is here with the temperature not really getting above -10 since yesterday. Climbs that we saw are improving in condition in the upper gorge but as yet they're still not in nick. With this cold spell it won't take long before they are.

We went back to Krokan which has seen a great improvement in conditions with now most routes in climbable shape.

Have been told that some climbs in lower gorge and rjukan centre are worth a look as likely to be doable. Subsequently we are off to try one of the longer multi pitch routes and fingers crossed it's in.
gilliesp on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to Nevis_Ben:

Be interested in knowing how Lettvann and Tracy's Eyes are shaping up. Going out on 30th Jan.

Good that things are improving for you with the projected cold spell.

Nevis_Ben on 13 Jan 2014
In reply to gilliesp:

Both routes are sketchy at the mo. Could be done if you really fancied it. Keep an eye on the weather and if the temp stays well below 0 as it is right now things will be fine by end of Jan.
GrendeI on 14 Jan 2014
gilliesp on 15 Jan 2014
In reply to Nevis_Ben:

Thank you for update. Appreciated.
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Nevis_Ben on 15 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Heading home now and watching the time pass at Oslo Rygge airport.

Yesterday was last climbing day and we managed to do Fabrikkfossen and although it was a bit wet there was plenty of ice for climbing and belays. Route was climbed to top.

Temperature as of this morning when leaving was -8 and has been around this temp (sometimes as low as-15) for 4 days.

If the cold stays then it won't be too long before the majority of climbs are climbable. I went to upper gorge on Monday and there was stuff that could have been climbed but I didn't think it looked great. I'm sure that since then it's an improved picture.

Not sure about the other areas as asked.

All I can suggest is to keep monitoring the temperature. If it stays well below 0 then I'm sure that it'll be great in Rjukan within a week and even now there is some good climbing to be had.

If you decide to go out hope you have a good trip
Mr Christian - on 15 Jan 2014
In reply to Nevis_Ben:

Thanks for the info
gilliesp on 15 Jan 2014
In reply to Nevis_Ben:

Thanks from me to.

Wonder if I could take a sideways step from thread and ask you something about the route to Rjukan from Rygge Moss, as we've always gone via Torp/Sandefjord. Is there tolls to pay and does it take around the 3 hours by car as calculated by RAC Route Planner?
Nevis_Ben on 16 Jan 2014
In reply to gilliesp:

We took the ferry from moss to Horton. This route was suggested by the car hire guy at the airport. The ferry goes frequently and I think it cost less than 50 NOK for 4 of us and car. I think it cuts off around 30 mins journey time as it bypasses Oslo. Also it bypasses toll roads too.

If you don't take the Moss-Horton ferry you'll go round Oslo and on to toll roads. All the tolls are automatic and there's no delay to travel when passing through the camera zone. Time is probably accurate too. Driving in Norway is painfully slow due not just to road conditions but more to speed limits.
GrendeI on 17 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Another conditions update from yesterday.

Krokan and Kvitaa

https://www.facebook.com/rjukanoldschoolhostel/posts/465163540255100
gilliesp on 18 Jan 2014
In reply to Nevis_Ben:

Great advice. I don't think the ferry will be running as late as we need it - around 9pm but I will check. Possibly on earlier return journey though... Many thanks.
Nevis_Ben on 18 Jan 2014
In reply to gilliesp:

Don't rule out the ferry. We caught the ferry at around 2300 give or take and it wasn't once suggested that there was a last run.
gilliesp on 18 Jan 2014
In reply to Nevis_Ben:

Yep. Checked earlier and timetable runs 06.30 to 24.00 hours so it seems ferry is a possibility. The road looks as if it goes under Oslo-fjord (tunnel) which heads to Drammen and avoids Oslo altogether. A meal on board ferry though is an attractive option...

Thanks for advice.
Mr Christian - on 20 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Conditions hear are good, been here since saturday its been between -6 to -10, the snow has stopped for now, Krokan has been good, 6 climbs in 2 days in that area.
chris smith - on 20 Jan 2014
Just a quick update on how things are over here. Lots of routes in at Krokan and Ozzimosos tho it could do with the ice been a little fatter, routes tend to be a bit tough in place as the ice is quite vertical instead of been sloped in places. The biggest issue is the snow! It's chest deep if you are heading to any of the multi pitch routes, had to back off lower gorge twice as we couldn't get there. Done Bolgen today and the walk in was terrible and the ice was poor, stay away for a while. You can add an hour to most walk in times if your heading uphill to any climbs due to the snow.
chris smith - on 21 Jan 2014
Tried for lower gorge again today and had to turn back as we couldn't cross the stream. Went up to upper gorge, the path is well beaten and straight forward if you park at vermork bridge, one half of our group done Tracy's eyes, poor ice with snow on top. We did Nedre Svingfoss (good ice) and Letvan (a little banked with snow, but ice underneath). There were teams on Nye Vermorkfiss and sabotorfossen which both looked in good nick. It was -10 today and its been no higher than -5 since I got here on Thursday.
Shaw Brown - on 23 Jan 2014
In reply to chris smith:

Hi Chris

Bolgen is OK now, a little drippy on the first pitch otherwise good. Walk in also fine now.

To Menn og et Foster at Bolgen is in excellent condition I am told.

Krokan is is in excellent condition.

Cheers

Shaw
WillCass - on 24 Jan 2014
In reply to Shaw Brown:

Any news on if the lower gorge is now accessible, we're out there from Monday onwards. Cheers Will
Si Withington - on 28 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Lots of snow here at the moment. Waded/swam into the Lower Gorge - snow is chest deep a lot of the way in - it's a slog. Headed over to Krokan where it was busy but a lot to go at. Saying that though a fair bit of the area has not been accessed for a while and need a trail breaking. We climbed Jomfrua (WI 4) which was in excellent condition, as was Bullen and the other popular Krokan lines. Pics here: https://www.facebook.com/LakelandAscents
Sandy Paterson - on 28 Jan 2014
In reply to Si Withington:

Thanks for the update Si. Keep them coming out in 10 days time. Feel free to keep the trail breaking going!!
Si Withington - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Sandy Paterson:

Haha, any trail bashing lasts less than a day! It put a good 2 foot overnight and has been snowing all day again. The forecast is for snow for the rest of the week too. Update from today here: https://www.facebook.com/LakelandAscents

Si
Si Withington - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Headed into the Upper Gorge today. Things massively buried, particularly at the lower grades. Tracy's Eyes (WI3) for example is completely unclimbable (see pic). Climbed Nedre Svingfoss (WI3) which was cruddy due to being insulated by all the snow. Ended up on Sabotorfossen (WI5) which is in great condition, giving steep climbing on first time placements with good screws. Only managed 2 pitches due to time, but will be back for the rest.

Further up the gorge the same theme continues - there is a LOT of snow here, making things hard to access. Juvsoyla (WI6) look in good nick. See pics.

If you're coming to Rjukan in the near future, seriously consider hiring snow chains. Our car is currently stuck in the Ice Park carpark.

Pics of the above at http://www.facebook.com/lakelandascents
Si Withington - on 31 Jan 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Today we headed to Vermork Bridge & the Ice Park. The artificial lines are non-existent at the moment. We climbed the natural lines Vermorkbrufoss Ost (WI 4) and Vest (WI 5). The former gave good steep climbing, but the ice was cruddy and screws useless. A full rack of Screamers would have been great.

The latter however was much better and deserves its 3 star status.

Seems that anything under 'steep WI 4' is cruddy at the moment, as the snow has been insulating things too much. Plenty to go at on the steeper stuff though. All good.

Pics of the above at http://www.facebook.com/lakelandascents
In reply to Si Withington:

Your photos make it look like you should be ski touring not climbing. Looks like amazing powder! :)
daniel_c_baron - on 01 Feb 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

I don't think ski touring would be very fun as the powder is bottomless. I think the downhill will be in good nick and we are planning on going up for a bash one day
ads.ukclimbing.com
planetmarshall on 01 Feb 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

The forecast is for above zero temperatures in the valley for at least the next week, will be interesting to see how it affects the conditions. I'm heading there week beginning 16th Feb.

Andrew.
Si Withington - on 01 Feb 2014
In reply to planetmarshall:

It needs it. Was warmer today and felt wet on route. Pics/info from today at http://www.facebook.com/lakelandascents
Si Withington - on 02 Feb 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Things a lot warmer today - + 1 degree at Vaer and +4 or so in Rjukan centre. Lots of water around and routes dripping a fair bit. Snow has stopped too, for now. Forecast to be warm again tomorrow, then cold on Tues. To be honest, although not great for tomorrow's climbing, longer term it will be good for the routes and the snow pack. Today the snow was a lot wetter and there was evidence of a few small slides on the slopes of the Upper Gorge. Great snowman-making conditions though! Pics at: http://www.facebook.com/lakelandascents
daniel_c_baron - on 04 Feb 2014
In reply to cliff shasby:

Heads up if anybody is on the way out, this notice was pinned up next to the descent into the Gorge by the bridge.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=234289

Regards

Dan

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