/ Which Catalonian crag for steep stuff in Jan-Feb

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cha1n on 01 Jan 2014

I'll be in Catalonia for a month or so starting from mid-jan and I was wondering which crags are best for steep powerful climbing on big holds?

Siurana is being recommended for warmth but I think it'll be a bit crimpy for me at the moment as I have a minor pulley injury.

Steep and good holds are important but temps are too, nothing too cold for belaying! Thanks!
cha1n on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to cha1n:

tom84 - on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to cha1n:

bit further north, but rodellar fits the steep juggy routes bill!
Pete_Robinson on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to cha1n:

You haven't mentioned grades but Bruixes wall at Terradets is steep and on big holds. And gets sun from 11-5ish.

Siurana very crimpy.
Margalef pockets might not be ideal if you're nursing an injury.
cha1n on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to cha1n:

Thanks for the replies.

Grade wise, I'll be looking for quality stuff around 8a and my gf will be looking for 6's.

I'd heard that Rodellar can be cold this time of year? If Margalef is warm enough, that could be a good shout. I could avoid using my injured finger completely!
Ian Patterson on 02 Jan 2014
In reply to cha1n:

Margalef is an all year round destination with a good mix of sunny and shady crags. Also has some good mixed abilty crags. Siurana and other crags in the area are easily driveable as well if you want a change (Raco de misa is great if you want some big stamina pitches and its not too windy).
nicolas durand - on 05 Jan 2014
In reply to cha1n:

Margalef can be cold and windy and not great on damaged fingers. St linya has the cave and great easier routes at futbolin if you can decide to climb half day for your gf there and the rest in the cave. Sant llorenc disiblia has lots to offer to!!
Ridellar is in aragon and can bet wet and cold that time of year
Chullilla is not in catalunya but further south with good temps same as gandia and el bovedon.
cha1n on 06 Jan 2014
In reply to cha1n:
Hey, thanks for the additional replies.

Quick question about the cave at Santa Linya - is it climbable this time of year and is there a free topo? Usually I'd happily buy the guide for an area but it's only 2-3 weeks before I'm going to France. ***EDIT - I found a topo but if anyone knows approx. route lengths, that'd be great as I only have a 70m rope ***

Also, what's the Santa Linya area like for supermarkets, fuentes, internet access, etc? Is it OK to park up and sleep at the crag?

Post edited at 11:39
LeeWood - on 06 Jan 2014
In reply to cha1n:

The car park nr sector futbolin is often used by campervan climbers. Santa Linya is a bit out the way for larger shops; smaller shops in Ager & Os de Balaguer.

The Lleida area topo is excellent value (now revised) and I don't think you would regret having full info in hand. Lleida zone is an area to return to.
Steve Crowe - on 06 Jan 2014
In reply to LeeWood:

and big shops and supermarkets down the road in Balaguer.
nicolas durand - on 12 Jan 2014
In reply to cha1n:

Futbolin is currently a bit of a mud pit due to ongoing roadwordks there so would recommend to park up somewhere else. If you go to bruixes you can park up at the refugio in cellers or tge hotel and use internet there whilst having a cofee. They also let you have a shower for two euros.

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