/ chainring size / compatability
Yes, it will be absolutely fine.
I used 36/50 for a bit on my last bike because that's what I had hanging around. I actually found it quite a good combination - plenty low enough most of the time and less of a gaping fall dropping down to a 34.
I got a s/h 36/50 Stronglight Impact off fleabay for my winter hack to replace the old Campag Daytona 39/53 it came with. I'm getting too old to push big gears! My old 9 speed Veloce rear mech has a short cage, and the front changer has a max tooth difference of 14. The rear cassette is a 14-28
If I'd gone for a full compact setup I'd have had to change the whole transmission, so it was the cheapest way do give me a better spread of gearing. All I needed to do was take a couple of links out of the chain.
My good bike has a full 10 speed compact setup - 34/50 and 13-29 cassette so I've got some lower gearing when tackling longer and steeper stuff in the summer months.
Just out of curiosity... how do modern drivetrains cope with such a large difference in the chainrings(16T)? Isn't it a bit clunky? Aside from the fact 34T might be too low, the large gap was also a factor putting me off a bit :-P A quick calculation and I realised that 34T/36T wasn't a big a difference in gearing as I'd thought.
I'm just thinking maybe I should not bother getting the 36T and have a go with the 34T, it would be a lot less effort as it's a special order part that'll take a while and cost £20 :-P
Too many options. Arghhhhh! :-P
The 50 lets you stay in the big ring for longer, so you end up doing less double shifting for one thing.
I had a compact on my Boardman Hybrid and always found the jump too big between the rings, so go for the 36. After the crank worked loose irreparably I changed the whole crankset to a Shimano 3 ring and it's so much better to use
Anyone got a 6800 double that they want to swap for a compact :-P
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