/ UKC Fit Club Week 364
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up
It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread:
Volunteers to start the next few weeks (let's try to keep this up to 6 weeks ahead):
16/3 - Nick Russell
23/3 - Si Cox
30/3 - Nomics4sale
06/4 - ?
13/4 - ?
20/4 - ?
Summary of last week:
Joughton - nice commitment climbing in the hail! I guess as long as it stays as hail (rather than rain) it doesn't wet out the rock. Are the elbows and shoulders still feeling ok?
JimmyKay - Did you try a run on the knee? Was it ok?
mrchewy - Ouch, glad you walked away from the groundfall! Well done on the limestone sport.
Nick - Get outside you lazy bug**r.
Alun - Did you get sub-70? Sounds like you've got a good trips schedule lined up for the summer.
mattrm - Sounds like a nice week in the Lake district. Still keeping up the manic levels of dish tucks?
Eagle River - Well done on the V7 flash. Did you get a Malham session in?
biscuit - How are the finger tweaks?
Ali - The falling will quickly get more comfortable as long as you keep it up. Sounds like you took some positives from your Chulilla trip.
Curious Yellow - Did you get the V6 in time? Good work on ticking your Feb goals off!
hms - Goals? We must be converting you! If you keep up training at your current level you should smash 7b+ this summer.
Sankey - Settling in ok in Pennsylvania?
grubes - How was the N Wales sport? It looks like the weather's held off for you!
Nomics - Don't get too hung up on the time for one race. If it's fell racing you're into, surely hill reps would be better training than intervals.
Dandan82 - Good progress on the weights. Do you find that it helps with powerful climbing, or is it just something you enjoy? Anything useful come out of your physio appointment?
Exile - Nice work getting out at the weekend. Anything else this week? I sacked off a trip on forecasts of high temperatures and high avalanche risk.
Ally Smith - Back into it after the lurgy?
AJM - Keep the reports from Europe coming! Any more visitors planned? (I haven't managed to keep track)
AndrewW - Weather not good? I think that's the first time we've heard that from you! I notice (with envy) that your "bad weather training" option still seems to be outdoors though.
IainRUK - scary stuff! I've plenty of experience with crazy drivers when cycling to work, but not when running. How are you getting on in Philly?
Humperdink - Afraid I don't have Sky so missed intercounties. How did it go?
Luke Owens - If you're falling off things because you're tired from a previous session, it doesn't make it a bad session. Are you getting more steep mileage in?
Si Cox - Getting back into it? I always find I feel really fit after a few days winter mountaineering.
ppg - I get the impression your excited about Malham. Did you get there again this week? (Or perhaps I should ask, did you leave?)
mbh - Feeling any better now? As others have said, it sounds like you just need a longer period of rest after 2 years of relentless training. Don't rush back into it for the sake of your averages and spreadsheets, get going again when it feels right. You'll come back stronger!
Just Tintin - Recovered from the lurgy? I find 2 minutes plank hard enough.
stevemarkperry - Any climbing this week?
Cheers Nick. Perfect weather and I'm working all weekend...
A badly bruised heel, tweaked ligaments in the other one and some compression of the spine meant a trip to the physio and little climbing this week. However, it pushed me onto the rails and boards.
First pullups using the mono pockets on the Beastmaker! Get in.
Mon - Foot on campusing. Managed almost 10min out of 30. Lot's of 2min breaks. Lots of pullups but the max in one go was 3. Then managed to do a couple of sets of 2 using the mono slots!!! 3hrs or so.
Tue - Rest
Wed - Same sorta session as Mon but shorter. Managed to repeat the mono shizzle. Also a mate has just started climbing, so belayed him and played around in the boulder room, inc on the roof.
Thu - Foot on 1-5 session. Some other stuff and finished pretty mullered.
Fri - Bouldered slowly on the V0/1s. Tweaked ankle still weak but nailed my technique, so a good session. Did some hangs but fingers battered. Home.
Sat and Sun - Working on a buy-to-let but would have rested as pushed myself this week.
Learnt so much about my limits and limiting factors, so the groundfall came with some positives.
1 - I have strong fingers. I was so psyched by the mono pullups! Best sporting achievement ever seriously.
2 - I am weak. Being able to manage only 3 pullups with all my fingers on jugs but 2 usng monos emphasised this... at least I know what to target now.
3 - The Barrows file. Set off to try the 10 minutes solid foot on campusing. Oh my lord! Managed 1m45s first time. Shocked by how bad an effort that was. So rested for 2m and then did a minute etc.
4 - Realised on Flying Buttress that I need to know just how far I can reach, so the 1-5 session with feet on was eye opening. Aimed for accuracy, also surprised at what felt like new muscles activating in the front of the shoulder.
Almost achieved all my goals for the year already. So I'm making the 10min foot on campusing stamina fest a goal but I have no idea if that should be a MTG or LTG? No idea how that recruitment will work out. IT also keeps me off the steep boards and drop knees, whilst still leaning back, which seems wise.
Being able to do 10 pullups would seem sensible. It's obvious that my arms and shoulders are a weakness and I need to start somewhere. So another goal but that will take till summer for sure.
Weight has crept back up to 80kg again. Need to sort.
Pullups in the mono pockets? BADASS
*Dandan82 - Good progress on the weights. Do you find that it helps with powerful climbing, or is it just something you enjoy? Anything useful come out of your physio appointment?*
Thanks, I do enjoy the weights, but I also used to find that if I did something even as simple as a few press ups the day before I climbed, I would always seem to have a good, strong session. The advantages of working antagonist muscles to get a balance are well documented so I can only see it as a good thing.
The physio appointment isn't until tomorrow so you will have to wait until next week for that exciting installment!
M: Core; L hangs, Front lever (knees bent)
Fingers; CWP fingerboard max hangs 6-8 secs all positions
T: Chest; bench, decline dumbell press, incline flys, dips+10kg
W: Climb; 1 hr boulder, AeroPow; 28 move 6c+ x4, 22 move 6c+ x4
S: Climb; The Cuttings, Portland; 5,6b,6a+,7b+ many times
S: Remove engine from car
Another decent week, topped off with a great day outdoors which is always a bonus!
I did fingerboard hangs on monday and can now hang one arm on a campus rung for 6-8 seconds in straight arm, bent or over 90deg positions! I did it at the local wall and a couple of the good locals were impressed and showed how they couldn't even come close, it was nice to receive some confirmation from others that I have made a distinct improvement over the norm. 5 weeks to go from a max hang of 0secs to 8secs is pretty pleasing.
Had a stack of goes on Sign of the Vulcan yesterday, I've got the moves wired now, I just need to speed through the lower section to give myself enough energy to make the catch to the crux pocket. If I do the crux move after a good rest it can go almost static, but after doing the start of the route it is a desperate, low percentage lunge so it's just a case of retaining enough power to get through it. More AnCap required!
STG: 7b redpoint. - No indoor attempts, more progress on 7b+ outdoor
Stay injury free - mostly tick
MTG: La Carnage as Bas Cuvier in April. - been watching videos of this in anticipation
Stay injury free
LTG: 8a repdoint this year
Stay injury free!
Thanks, Nick. How did your week go?
Managed three sessions at the wall this week, but no run. Battling the tiredness and seeking some routine, so nothing much new, I'm afraid.
However, am trying to read through 'Self Coached Climber' to give myself more structure and focus.
Also, came across an interesting article by someone from UKC - icesolo, I believe - which was thought-provoking. Did anyone else read this?
Thanks Nick, I got two Malham sessions in!
Goals: Raindogs, The Ashes
Mon: Indoor routes, some new routes at stockport. Had a doubles session and flashed the new 7b, failed on an old 7c and found the new 7b+ pretty hard but doable.
Thurs: Malham, looked a bit misty and it rained at times with a southerly wind so we sacked off the top deck and I got on raindogs. Just about remembered the sequence and got a good link on top rope from the 2nd bolt to tickling the chain grab (but couldn't hold on)
Sat: 2.5hr Yoga Core Workshop. learnt a lot and was completely beasted by the end of it.
Sun: Malham. Got on lead on Raindogs with the aim of leading cleanly from 2nd bolt to top. 2nd attempt was the best where again, I touched the chain but couldn't hold on.
Bottom holds still a bit wet so focussed on the top half of Raindogs and feel like it's a worthwhile project now I can almost get that 2nd to top link. Got an annoying A2 pulley tweak on my middle finger since last week which gets sore when climbing and towards the end of the session causes a noticeable weakness in the crimp. managing it with icing and trying not to pull too hard!
No climbing this week but some nice bike-time including a demo day riding loads of posh bikes at Cannock Chase today – in the sun!
Weight: 138 lbs
Training Hours: 8:30hr
MTB Distance: 140km
Trad pitches this week (lead/second/total): (0/0/0)
Mountain bike rides / walks & scrambles: 5
M: 30km / 1:30hr mtb
T: 20km / 1:00hr mtb
W: 35km / 2:07hr mtb (night ride)
S: 29km / 2:30hr mtb (various bikes at demo day) followed by another 28km / 1:20hr mtb local loop
Drunk Enough Font 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Lead Severe on leader-placed protection
10 pitches per week, lead or second
Get mountain-fit: 3 x mountain bike rides per week and/or long walking & scrambling days.
MTG (by Dec 2014):
Sleeping With The Flowers Font 7A (Roaches)
Top-10 in Run&Ride Summer Classic XC on 1st June (mountain bike race)
Get out to the Alps (Trip booked for June 28 – July 5)
500 pitches this year, lead or second (lead/second/total): (2/4/6)
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
Consolodate winter experience (will have to be 2014/2015 season now)
LTG (superficially grade-based for now):
Juvsøyla (WI6), Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Rjukan
7B, E1, WI6, VI 6, ED Alpine
The 10 minutes of foot on campus will vary massively in difficulty depending what pattern you use. So its probably a MTG and a LTG. I know Ally was using it a lot as PE training so may be able to give you an idea of what sort of pattern and timings a wannabe 8c leader aims at.
I can't do mono pullups on a beastmaker. Or mono deadhangs either. Effort.
Ah good - I know she was so worried that there would be no one left to bully her after I fled for warmer climes, so its good you've stepped up to the plate ;-)
No one more until the start of April now I don't think.
The summary of post Barcelona climbing so far is that I am mainly getting spanked and my skin is sore. The totally different style at Margalef is "challenging" and because I'm not used to it its kicked a lot of the "a muerte" out of my onsighting and the confidence out of my climbing. I'm not used to pockets, not used to pocket style feet, not used to powerful steepness and not used to having to pull so hard!
High point so far is one decent redpoint on a short (~15m - 30 moves or so) 7c, ending at the last hard section, and doing a 7a+ second go (felt like a flash would have been plausible had I not been forced to use it as a part of a warmup and had I gone for it properly. It was mainly tufa though!).
Low points include falling off the mono move on a 6b+ twice, backing off a 7a+ because my head wasn't in the game at all, failing to get off the floor on an 8a because I couldn't do the move (pala sur I think it was called at espadelles) and feeling miles away from the sustainedness on the top section of today's 7c attempt (magic festival. It is brilliant mind you).
I think basically I'm probably not good at steep open hand pocket pulling, and maybe also lacking in power endurance - most of the stuff so far has been longer aero stuff with no hard moves rather than the bam-bam-bam continuous stuff.
Be nice to get the 7c from yesterday done, and maybe something else moderately hard, but I guess we will see. The weather is great, although I'm having disagreements with the Aussie we are currently climbing with because I'm convinced its basically too hot in the sun whereas he only really starts operating when it hits about 25!
Well, you know how deeply self-confident I am. Setting goals when your not confident does rather seem like a way to get spanked! Which is why I need someone to bully me, I suppose...
Margalef sounds v different. I'm assuming the routes are not requiring your lovely 80m rope then.
Anyway, my week:
M: Cycle commute. Evening; UCR routes, dozen mainly in pairs inc a new 6c, 3 other 6cs, and a play on a 7b v clip to clip. Session shorter than ideal as traffic was so bad getting there.
T; Cycle commute
W: Cycle commute, left work early & cycled to UCR, ~12 circuits, 5 to warm up then umteen goes on the new 7a downstairs then 3 to warm down. Didn't get the 7a - it's on a 45degree wall and also the roof. Got all the roof section really smooth but there is a hideous twisty move to 30 which I then don't have the power for. If I hop back on after the roof section I can do it.
T: very ill, did absolutely nothing
F: felt a bit better, but when I tentatively said to the family that I was off to Bloc I was told v robustly that no I wasn't. V sensible I'm sure. Got bored.
S: Long UCR session, routes in singles. 6a 6a+ 6b 6b+ 6c 6c+ 7a then spoilt the pattern by getting back on the 7b (2 goes) 6c 6b+. I think I have now lead all the moves on the 7b but it is going to take some effort to put them together. Feels do-able though.
S: Lovely sunny day. Trad at Goblin Combe. 6 routes including a death-on-a-stick E2 5b (climbing ok but protection distinctly dubious brassies). Also an E1 crack I had bottled 2 years ago - it felt just so easy today. Maybe I'm getting better!
Nice one! I can barely hang two fingers, monos seems a long way off. You've also got me thinking about my layoff from climbing back in September (Achilles tendon). It forced me onto the fingerboard, which was probably a good thing.
Thanks for doing fit club Nick. Busy week this week, but managed to get a couple of sessions in.
M - nothing
T - Run to work - 40mins
W - Boulder session at Biscuit Factory - first time I've pulled really hard for probably a couple of months. Felt creaky but fun session
T - 1.5hrs checking control sites for street orienteering event I'm organising - mix of running, jogging, walking and stopping!
F - 45min checking control sites - same as above
S - long session at the Biscuit Factory - good session, finished off with some push ups and core
S - nothing
The trouble with pockets... is you need to be able to mono the Beastmaker ;-)
Nah, seriously Andy - stick with it. At the very least all these pockets are good practice for the Frankenjura in the summer, it's a long trip you're on and the good and bad days will even out. It's also a new area and a new type of climbing, just try hard, then even harder and it will all come good.
Surely setting goals when unconfident leads to unambitious goals rather than unachieveable goals? You did seem to set goals of what, E3 onsights, another 7b+ and some 7bs and some >E4 head points, which if I recall correctly are at rather than above your current limits ;-)
Its different, yeah. Total variety. I can see why people like it if they're good at pockets, and hopefully I'll get into it more as I adjust to the style. There's everything from the 10m powerfests at Laborativa with like 5m of roof to 50m stamina pitches at Cathedral etc. So far it has mostly been shorter stuff we have been on, mainly due to the grades involved. But the more vertical harder stuff has thin feet stuffed onto the lips of small pockets and that sort of stuff, which I struggled on in Ceuse last year too, my head doesn't like it (I like falling off when I know its my arms that will give out because its predictable, I'm less good with random foot blowing on thin vert stuff being the risk), and the longer steeper stuff like today just seems to be too continuously burly - maybe its an adjustment thing, it's almost certainly partly a 3rd day on thing, and it's also probably a power endurance thing. I could do all the moves, although the bottom boulder problem section felt hard, but linking it felt like a very big ask.
So true - training for future trips would definitely include a lot more open hand work and small pocket work for the bouldery stuff, and lots of open hand PE and stamina stuff.
That's what I'm planning. And failing that I'll just go and find the 3 tufas in the whole of Margalef and climb those instead ;-)
Cheers. To be honest, I struggle with two finger hangs hugely (fingers all very different lengths)but waving a paint brush around puts a lot of pressure on the middle finger. I've been decorating 33 years, so I'm guessing that helped.
Climbing is in the feet tho. That's why I'm crap.
Work your weaknesses said someone, somewhere, once or twice I'm sure! Keep the tufas for fun rest days...
Been analyzing stuff a lot this week and to be honest, I pretty much open hand everything. Half crimp now and again but a full crimp is utterly alien to me. All the foot on stuff is open hand. I guess I get over worried when I crimp that I'll injure something and thus avoid like the plague. Pretty sure I've only ever crimped outside once or twice on slate.
M - yoga, swimming (2.0km, but an absolute beast of a set. 20x50m sprints on 2:00 interval)
T - core (light session after Monday)
W - swimming (2.9km)
T - UCR, 4x4s. Much weaker than last week, but it's all about tuning the intensity with respect to your limit on the day, right?
F - First day out of the year! Went sport climbing at Brean. Warmed up on a 6c, then had a go at Clashing Socks (7b). After a rather pathetic bolt-to-bolt attempt, I eventually got the draws in but only the most rudimentary sketch of a sequence. A decent first redpoint effort followed, but left me feeling like I should have made more effort to work out a sequence for the headwall on the first try. Found something that works, but my second redpoint attempt fizzled out as my power just drained completely. Managed to dog up and get the draws out.
S - Ashton Court park run - 19:46 (19:45 on my watch). Pleased with this - it's a hard course.
S - Climbing at Wyndcliffe. It was meant to be an easy day, we started with 3xVS then 1xHS. All pretty good, and I must say Questor (VS 4c) is excellent, well worth its 3*. Then jumped on Mercury (E4 6a). Gave it a proper go, complete with "power screams" (I must have sounded like a right plonker, it really was all involuntary), but ultimately unsuccessful.
A pretty good week, ended on a high with some climbing outside in excellent weather! I've learnt that it takes a bit of time on rock to convert any gains I've made from winter training to performance outside. I could feel myself getting better at reading the route and using the holds just during the course of a single afternoon sport climbing. The sport mentality will also take a bit of getting used to.
I'm pleased to have got on that E4 today, even if I did come off. If I don't try them, I have even less chance of succeeding! I also really think I gave it a good go, thought I was going to come off at least two moves before I actually did.
A decent result in the Parkrun too. It doesn't tick my sub-19:00 goal (and it's nowhere near my brother's PB of 16:52), but the Ashton Court circuit has about 100m of elevation in it, so I should be able to do much better on the flat.
Short term goals (March)
Sub-19:00 5k run. 19:46 in Ashton court,feel like I could go faster on an easier course.
4 days out on rock. I missed 3 weather windows in Feb, must try harder! Two down already, maybe this was a little pessimistic!
Don't embarass myself at Gloucester blocks. (Swimming relays gala 23rd March.) I'll be doing 50m and 100m freestyle, and 50m and 100m of some other stroke.
Medium term goals (March)
Stick to the training plan. 6/12 weeks down. Still pretty flexible...
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 6c
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, Clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 78/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
I assume its bird banned by now, but I would really rate Peryl for later in the year.
I think for Clashing Socks on the headwall you just need to wire in the bit up to the throw for the first good hold, and then just keep on hanging on after that.
Regarding your comment on Thursday - yes, up to a point, but at least some of the time you need to be hitting a training session strong!
Pal Sur is only 8a if you use the easier start coming in from the right. The original start is about 7A+/B in isolation - I took about an hour to work out a viable sequence but still failed to RP. No surprises you got shut down!
The original start being where it's marked on the topo, bolts shared with the other harder routes (big pocket and bugger all else you can reach, then a slot, then some 2 finger pockets about a move or two higher)?
I'd picked up from 8a that there was a harder and an easier start but I didn't realise the harder start was that hard!
Have a re-read of Barrows' article. The 10min foot-on stamina is on jugs, not campus rungs.
You want to aim for 3-4min for training aero-power training on campus rungs.
Use bigger rungs, or move the foothold/stool/whatever to vary the intensity to optimise the duration into this range.
My current set-up was too intense and i was only managing ~2min so i've changed the position and size of the foothold - I'll see this week if i've got it right.
Yep - the original start is in common with Pal Est/Norte/Sud - 8c/+ territory!
Thanks for doing fitclub. I'd be happy to take over full time from April onwards, probably able to do April/May/June for sure. Apart from maybe a weekend in May at the end of the month.
Manic amounts of dish tucks? Realised how crap my core was when I did this crack masterclass with tompr at the weekend.
PPG - 5 elbows = 5 days of elbow rehab exercises (miserable failure BTW)
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (3lbs still to go...)
M - rest
T - elbow eccentrics
W - rest
T - rest
F - elbow eccentrics
S - 90 mins crack climbing masterclass with tompr!
S - 200 dish tucks
Not the best week training wise. But got a fair bit of DIY done however. Went to the Wild Country Crack Climbing Masterclass by the mighty (ex-fitclubber) tompr. The diet wasn't great. I was around 18-20 for DQS M - T, but after that it went a bit wrong. Didn't do enough elbow exercises. Core wasn't great either. Going to have to get on it next week.
3 elbow rehab
Decent diet at the weekend & no beer
Cheers Ally - I'm on the biggest of the three rails at the wall as it is and the foot holds are pretty huge. Are you resting for a set time between efforts or till you feel ready to go again? I was sticking to a strict two minutes, which doesn't seem long enough to recover but I didn't want to make it too easy.
I'll also use jugs in the boulder room tomorrow and see how long I can last in a stamina fest.
I think everybody who visits Margalef the first time gets completely spanked. But once you adapt to the pockety nature of the climbing, it gets better. Keep at it!
The averages/spreadsheet thing is just me trying, in a simple minded way, to get better by running loads. Once you start to log it, all sports of milestones pop out of the figures which help to keep motivation up.
But anyway, I have had another week of nothing, apart from a quite possibly I'll advised Grizzly yesterday. I had my new off-road shoes in regulation hideous colours to try out, so I had to do it. This is one of those 20 mile, 3500 ft ascent (apparently, and it felt like it) off-road, on-shingle beach, in-mud things, out of Seaton on the South Devon Coast. 2000+ runners and a great atmosphere, so I wanted to take part. It was hell, actually, but I will be back next year. Good for mental toughness, but bad for my legs. I went unbelievably slowly, heel hurting for most of the way, and still came in only 8 minutes later than the last time I tried this event 5 years ago.
The cold has gone now, so I will try some gym/ core/ swimming while the legs return to the world of the living
Thanks for doing fit club. It was good to get out last weekend. No I haven't been out this week - limited brownie points so like you I'm being selective before heading North.
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: pm: Nothing
T: pm: 1hr 30 at cave, working purple L-R, wall grade 7a+, real graxde 7b(+)?
W: pm: 50min fell runs
T: am: 50min fell run
F: pm: 50min dry tooling
S: am: 1hr 40min traversing on 7a traverse for endurance & 2hrs 30 MTB ride.
pm: 1hr badminton - myself, my wife and a friend of ours played doubles with my Mum. Everybody only won when playing with Mum. In our defence she did once play for Wales, but quite embarrassingly she is now 70!
Weight this morning still 11st 9lb
Good week really, need to focus the climbing training a little more though.
Back in bouldering mode.
M-Woody session followed by a quick whizz around the yellow curcuit. Followed by core.
W-Woody session followed by yellow and red circuit.
T-Woody session followed by campus board and then core.
S-Tried to get out to Ladstones but it was late. Seems we picked the only place in the country which was damp.
S-Grim in the lakes again so we headed to Hutton Roof in Lancashire. Nothing difficult. Just ended up bumbling on some easier stuff.
I will take the responsibility seriously.
Yeah, bird ban is March through June. It's definitely on my radar for the summer though.
Roughly what I concluded. In my first RP attempt I got up to the first good hold, but hadn't got it sorted in my head where to go from there. I think subconsciously I wasn't expecting to get that far, so had the "huh, what do I do now?" effect. Anyway, it should go smoothly next time.
Good point, I'll bear that in mind... I've got to admit, I felt like I got much more out of the previous week's session when I didn't feel as weak.
I like your definition of "nothing"!
I wasn't being critical of the logbook/spreadsheet approach btw, just aware that I might (and indeed have in the past) start to increase training load too quickly, too soon, if it means achieving a number.
Well I don't have Sky either (although apparently it wasn't on this year anyway) and I didn't run it. So overall you didn't miss much!!
M: legs sore still am: gym, bike 45mins, 1x Glutes
Tu: pm easy 6/7M in 43:40
W: legs finally recovering am: gym, bike 40mins, 1 x core. pm 60mins run including 5x4min off 1 min recovery felt ok ankle a bit sore afterwards. Followed by a massage which was pretty painful! Ankle still not prefect so decided to pull out of the intercounties.
Th: lunchtime gym, 45min bike. pm: 7M steady in 47:10
F: tired. pm firstevening run of 2014 lovely! 8M steady in 55:16
Sa: pm Session: 8x3:30mins off reducing recovery (starting at 2min, going down to 30secs) ~10M total
Su: Tried out a new route for long run which was enjoyable in the sunshine! 15M easy in 1:50:05
Total 56M - despite missing the intercounties I feel better about my ankle and hoping I haven't lost too much fitness. Looking forward to the 12 Stage relays next weekend. nice to get some good weather finally!
Morning Nick, thanks for the thread. I think you are right, hills are probably a better idea for me than intervals. Just need to force myself to do some with full effort.
STG: V6 at BoulderUK, another pink at the Depot, 7b indoors.
MTG: 7a onsight or quick 7b in Turkey and France
Mon: core and back
Tues: BoulderUK, ticked a V6. In reality it was more like mid-V5 but who cares, I'm having it.
Weds: Bowland trail run, 15.2km, 360m ascent. 5.53/km.
Thurs: Kendal, routes, routes and then more routes.
Fri: Bowland trail run, 16.2km, 609m ascent. 6.28/km. Core and back.
Sat: Almscliff bouldering then an early evening Depot session. Long day. Ticked another pink at the Depot and a font 6a at Almscliff.
Sun: Flat local trail run. 7km, 5.29/km.
Good week for climbing, ticking a V6 at boulderUK was a long standing goal and ticking that annoying steep pink problem at the depot (no 12 for anyone who knows the pinks there, grubes?) was a relief. And I did an actual outdoor boulder problem at Almscliff, get me. Pysched for bouldering.
That seems to have stopped a lot of people in this set. That and 16 were the only ones I didn't flash up to number 20.
What was the Cliff 6A?
Yeah I've seen alot of people getting annoyed with it, me included! Which one is 16? The crazy dyno on the barrel? The only other one I think I might have a chance at is 21 on the back right wall. I'm currently struggling to commit to the move to the left crimp. It's quite high and I'm a wimp. Are you enetering the comp on the 21st? I'm not sure whether to do it, comp style pressure and all but it seems a shame not to do it when I've done all but one of the previous rounds.
Alsmcliff, it was JP's problem, a low down one move wonder. I had a go at Nose Bag too but couldn't do it without the massive jug on the right. I was thinking that only the arete is in? Any other 6a/6b problems you can recommend?
Thanks for the summary!
Indeed, and this week I had a bit of an epiphany. I realised that, in the past, every time I have gone on a trip with a specific grade-goal in mind, if I don't achieve that goal I regard the trip as a 'failure'. And I don't think that's healthy. My epiphany was that I am enjoying climbing more than ever presicely becuase I'm not overly-focused on grade progression (although I shan't lie and say that I'm ignoring it!) and I want to keep that feeling.
Get strong for trip to Targassone in April.
Get fit for trip to Lleida in May.
Redpoint 7c (previous best 7b+)
Etape Eryri sportive in June, 165km.
M - Rest
T - Power endurance at wall, felt good
W - Rest
T - 30km bike commute. Power-endurance at wall, felt great!
F - 30km bike commute.
S - Rest
S - 100km with 2000m ascent on road bike. First proper ride in 3 weeks. Had a moment of weakness at around 75km but managed to bounce back (with the help of a can of Coke and a Snickers bar from a nearby petrol station!) and ended up finishing strongly. Pleased.
Much celebration this week too as on Wednesday the weight dipped below 70kg, and this morning was at 69.4. I'm pretty happy with that now and so I'm going to slacken the diet restrictions a bit. Although I'd love to get down to 67ish eventually.
This week it's more power endurance at the wall, before a day's climbing on Sunday, possible at Montgrony if it's not too warm in the sun!
Back on it after the lurgy, but missed out a couple of weeks of training and think I’ll feel it back on Fisheye next weekend.
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
MTG (Spring 2014):
8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, at Oliana
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Lou Ferrino sans pocket, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Double session Tuesday then rest up for Oliana
- Aim for weekend – do Fisheye in 3 overlapping sections
- Drop some weight – 76.0kg and 6.7% BF this morning – poor diet midweek with work trip equally 12hrs of croissants, coffee, cake & beer.
The week just gone:
S - Gardoms bouldering – lots of 7A-B stuff done quickly. I was going to go home, then another couple of friends turned up and got suckered onto another few problems, including Soft on the G. Very sore skin afterwards. Pizza, beer and late night banter is a sub optimal recovery strategy!
S - Broken. Not quite over lurgy me thinks. 25 km on road bike left we even more wiped out. Afternoon snooze!
M - Stockport. Lots of doubles up to 7b. Tried a 7c and got completely shutdown. How anyone tall climbs any of Vickers’ hard indoor routes is beyond me.
T - Boardroom. Good boulder to warm up. Managed a blue(V7-8) I’d dropped a few times before. Then aero-power on psicobloc. Managed the 7c and 7b, but got shutdown trying to do link-ups of up the 7a+ and back down the sandbag “6c” (7a?). Knackered by 8pm.
W - 6am train for Landan daytrip. Bleurgh. Ex tried it on again on the train back North. She even tried getting me drunk!
T - Cave of justice lamplight session. An-cap-ish. Warm-ups, then 7B+ x4, LWH (too long to be an-cap) x4, 7A+ x4.
F - Nowt.
First week.. all a tad crazy but now settled down..
m: am: 4.1 mile road run around the lake. pm: 6 miles with 3 x 1 mile reps at 5:30 ish pace
t: 10.2 miles road run 7:30 pace
w: drove to lancaster PA for a job interview, quick 5 k at 6:40 pace when I got there.
t: 6.5 miles late on after a long day of interviews
f: am: 9.2 miles belmont park, 7:30 pace road and trail. pm: 5.8 miles with 5 x 1km at around 5;18 pace
s: am: 5.3 miles 7:35 pace on road and trail. pm: 8.1 miles road 7:20 pace. after a day spent shopping..
s: 13.2 miles 6:44 pace road and trail with philly running group I know well then inlaws visit..
Easy week, some quality thrown in and 70+ miles so happy enough.
Actually enjoyed a weekend of domestic normality..
No worries Nick, I didn't take it that way :-)
Log books are great when things are picking up and going well, less good when the numbers tell a a different story, I find. You are right that they can tempt you into unwise efforts, but they can also spur you into achieving more. You just need to read your own body to decide what is best. I did once read something by a good (2:30-ish marathon when he was young)runner in which he described the sense of freedom he felt, probably after his best period, when he ditched his log book, and just went running. Whether he ditched his watch too I don't remember, but when I first got back into running, I deliberately didn't use a watch for the first several months. I set the bar really low. Just get out and get going, I thought.
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
This week's goals:
hmm ride a good amount - Not enough rides
North wales sports climbing with begineers - Partner fail
Sunday Ride: flint - prestatyn - Rhyl - flint - Tick
T: Cycled 6.1km 47m ascent
W: Rokt 2.5 hours bouldering and stuff
F: Climbing hangar comp. Scored 128 did not really try that hard just went for a laugh. cool UV stuff
S: Cycled 59km 285m ascent
Bouldered at holmfirth nice hour with needkraken
Next week Goals:
cycle a bit
Okay week really
Shoulders now feel fine, really pleased with how the physio is going. Elbows are slightly more a concern, a dull ache when warming up, but I goes when I'm actually climbing. Possibly jumped back into the bouldering too hard too fast.
Mon - nothing
Tue - bouldering at MCC. Flashed two of the V6-8 circuit, and all bit one of the V5-6 circuit. Pleased.
Wed - rest
Thurs - Rockover bouldering. Flashed quite a few of the V5-7 circuit, which I normally struggle on. Also managed one of the V8+ circuit, but I think it was pretty soft, plus a V7 on nice wooden holds... Finished with a bit of core, absolutely trashed.
Fri - very sore, everywhere!
Sat - nothing
Sun - not getting home after a friends 18th meant I missed out on climbing in the sun, but I tried to run off the hangover at least, to make the most of a nice day. It didn't work.
Last point I'll make is that I've somehow lost weight despite eating way too much, down to 10 stone at 5"11'. Not sure if its a good thing but it means I can hang a one armed lock off for much longer!
Obvious choices at 6a/V3 are Morrel's Wall and Hanging Rib. The South Cave arete is around 6b, if a bit knacky. If you fancy a bit of stamina shuffling, the Crucifix Traverse (follow break and then continue to wall) is decent and convenient to work. Virgin Traverse would be at the top end of the range you're interested in (6c/V4 and hard for it - personally find the 7a Low Crucifix traverse and the V5 Sloper Patrol easier!).
I'm heavier and shorter than you.
I've been shorter than plenty of people, but rarely heavier AND shorter.
Is this what happens as I get older?
And just like that Luke comes along! That's TWO people I'm heavier and shorter than!
I agree with you about the virgin traverse though, I'd done multiple V6s before I could get that.
I was 10st 6lb and 6'1" just before going to uni. Probably very similar runner bean proportions.
After my first term i'd put on half a stone - and the next bit might surprise a few folk - of muscle! I'd also gone from E1 to E3 and 6c to 7a, so don't be afraid of gaining weight; muscle is damn useful stuff...
not sure had one poor session at depot. My scores on there website seem low which is annoying so not really tried on this round.
Almscliff at 6A is a bit of a mix bag of sandbags ... try crucifix arete if you want a '6A' you will get your moneys worth with.
I forgot about Crucifix Arete - nice one. Never really though of it as being hard for the grade though - more about acquiring the knack . Once you find a good sequence you can get it dialed and repeat it first time, every time as a warm-up (depending on your tolerance for hand-jams).
16 is the one opposite the small barrel; bit of a press off a sloper at the top. 21 is good - miles easier than 20, which I don't think I've seen anyone do! Comps aren't really my scene so I doubt I'll be there; you never know though.
I think Moose has dealt with most of the better Cliff problems at that grade although I disagree with Grubes that they're sandbags, most of them are easy at the grade if anything. Hanging Arete from a sitter is one of my favourites at 6a+ish. Definitely avoid Flying Arete. Personally I think Caley's a bit better at that sort of grade - stuff like Otley Wall, Mr Smooth, The Horn, all the little aretes and slabs on the boulders beneath the track up at the crag - loads to go at and less cow shit too.
Just a check in post. Am settled in Pennsylvania. A bit too busy with work for much exercise last week, other than some walking around town. Anyway, went running tonight so back in the game, will hopefully post a few more outings on Sunday.
I've just moved to Philly, well about 6 miles away from downtown but actually NJ.
cheers for those recommendations. I've done Morrell's Wall, thought it was a bit scary but ok. I think I've done Crucifix Arete too. Virgin Traverse is really hard I think, I can't get the last few moves, hanging off tiny holds to get to the wall. Pumpy. Anyway, will have a look at the others and maybe even get to Caley.
to be fair it does tend to fluctuate a fair bit. I was 10st 8 before Chorro, I guess a week of exercise living off porridge will do that to you!
My shoulders are fairly built up but the rest of me is scrawny as anything - my legs in particular have very little muscle on them, so people who cycle/run/walk more than me will have much heavier legs.
As I do feel quite light though I feel like I've got some room to bulk up a bit and not worry about putting on too much weight. Although after reading a Ste Mac article about body types I think I'm destined to be wiry!
Sorry, been a bit slow on the uptake but hadn't realised you had moved to Philly in America. Interestingly there is a high probability of me moving out there for work for around 5 months over the summer. It would be great to meet up and do some runs! (Assuming you haven't got a job further away by then). Do you have any recommendations about clubs in the area? I've tried to get in touch with one so far but no reply.
Only when you're a youngster it will!! :) I wouldn't worry about whether you're big or not - its whether you can pull hard that counts! You've got plenty of room yet for "natural development" as you mature anyway.
I train with a nice group, all basically PhD or MD students.. but most 25-25 years old.
We meet at Lloyd Hall which is just at the back of the art gallery, 8:30 am every sunday unless there is a major race on in the city. We do 9, 13 or 16 mile loops, so we all set off together do one loop up the river then the 9's can head back, then the 13's add a loop on and then back at the river 13ers turn right, 16ers turn left.. most are 2:20-2:45 marathoners.. low 30 10k runners. Nice group. They will drop you but we're always near the river so you can easily get back but they will make sure new runners know how to get back and stay as a group in general.
I think this is the club: http://www.phillytc.com but the web presence is minimal, give us a shout and I'll let you know if its on. i've been running with them for a year or two now when here and they seem a good group.
We start 7-7:20 min mile pace and finish low 6's.. depends who's there, it's normally around 6:35-6;55 average for the 13-16 miles. The 16's kick off when marathon season kicks off.
They are also connected with UPenn, one of the guys coaches and runs with their track team, so they train with them 6:00 on Tuesdays. So that's the main two nights.
Otherwise in the states the shops are normally a running community and most shops will have a weekly free run.
And if you gave your 10k times clubs wont want to know.. most are joggers clubs and do not want faster runners.. I found this. Only a few clubs are for proper runners and they can be a tad elitist at letting people in.. so it can be hard to find clubs to run with..
Thanks - I'll keep you posted whether I'm on my way over or not. Good to know who you are running with - they were the poeple I tried to get in touch with! Although a bit disappointing to hear that its not easy finding a club. From what I gather its a bit all or nothing over there - they don't have a club structure with track leagues etc in the way we do over here and after college you either join an elite team or nothing. Any idea if they have open track meets at all?
I think there are track meets, those guys are off to one soon, a 5k track race I think NY state. But not sure on anything less than 5k. I think they also do 3000m races. But the road racing scene is a high standard if you get the right race. This weekend I'm doing a 5k and I doubt I'll make top 20, a chunk will be sub 15, which you'd rarely see in the UK.
Other races are woeful, my missus won $100 and was 2nd overall with a 20:30 5k.. you'd have thought for £60 prize money at least sub 17 runners would show.
They know more than me. The guy who runs the email isn't too quick at replying and they can be a tad elitist but the guys who come out every sunday seem to know the score and they are very reliable at always being out. Apart from Broad street and Philly marathon, the two biggest races in the city, they are always out. The pace is steady, but when its getting to the major races the pace lifts through the run and the last bit along the river can turn into a bit of a race if people want to push it but by then you can see the art gallery so you can't get lost.
The women, if you have a missus coming over, are much less reliable. My missus comes along but runs on her own but has sometimes had 1-2 with her. They run 7:30-8min miles. We're hoping now its getting to the summer we'll have a more regular womens group.
These seem like open track meets:
Today was definitely better (ticked the nameless shorter 7c mentioned in the last post), so see how tomorrow goes - I might still manage to pull a draw out of the bag!
Lol! Knowing you, she presumably didn't need to try too hard?
Cheers, sounds like its pretty good then. Sadly it would just be me going but my gf will come and visit.
Cheeky! but you're right; a G&T and a couple of beers on an empty stomach and i was feeling tipsy
A terrible week with the lurgy. Stamina is smashed but at least there was plenty of time for self-reflection. STG for Feb all completed or exceeded. Very pleased to have been on rock more than expected.
Revised short term goals (Mar)
1. Add more cardio sessions to programme to ensure better stamina (Hope this will show in long leads)
2. Major Series Race 29 March – decent time and don’t get injured!
3. Knock out the 7a in one go before the routes change
Medium term goals (April/May)
1. Use exercises to improve technique/endurance
2. Get on rock as much as possible
3. Learn to embrace failure.
4. Consider finger strength programme
Long term goals (2014)
Trad: Rack up E1 onsights. Lead E2. Second harder routes whenever there is opportunity.
Sport: Solid at 6b/6c outdoors, pushing 7a indoors ready for Yangshou trip
Bouldering: Solid at V2/V3 outdoors. Working V4/V5 indoors.
Running: Improve on Kielder Marathon time in October
M - Lurgy
T – Lurgy
W – Lurgy
T – Lurgy
F – Lurgy
S – Lurgy
S – TA training day.
Anyone free Wednesday afternoon/early evening near the lakes/yorks lime?
I have a meeting wednesday morning in workington and will be driving back towards Huddersfield in the afternoon
Also off of work Monday and Tuesday if anyone wants to get out pretty much anywhere
If you don't find anybody take your mat and go to St Bees.
Cheers Nick! Yeah, I'm embracing the steep stuff!
By the end of last week I was feeling really overtrained probably a result of the last few weeks hitting it hard. Relaxing more this week. Powered out like crazy on the Orme, was a sure sign I need to take it easy this week.
For the first time ever I didn't enjoy being on the rope that much, finding it hard to get psyched for sport climbing at the moment. I think it's a little dismaying being powered out when I know I should of found the route straight forward... I think i'm turning into a boulderer...!
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups
6 x 10 Off-Set Pullups
3 x 10 Arnie Press (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 Good Mornings (30kg)
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups
4 x 10 Off-Set Pull-Ups
3 x 10 Front Dumbbell Raises (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Dubbell Raises (15kg)
3 x 12 Good Mornings (40kg)
2 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Thursday: Night session at Pantymwyn
Fell off the last move of Firestarter (7A) on my best attempt. Damn powerful roof problem! Embracing the steep and feeling better on it now. Never been so close.
Saturday: Orme with Ally, warmed up in the cave, got really good beta for Right Wall Traverse (7A) should go next time.
Got back on the rope on The Bloods (7a+) powered out with a wrong sequence then worked out something good. Subsequent 3 redpoints were even worse powering out. Lost psyche completely and just wanted to go bouldering...
Fell off the finishing jug of Where's My Hippo (7A) 3 times... So close!
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