/ Well protected UK Slabs

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The Ivanator - on 11 Mar 2014
Slabs have steadily become my preferred medium in the last couple of years, and whilst I can keep a reasonably cool head on a run out within my grade it gets scary when I push it.
Last year I enjoyed the bolted routes at Shakemantle Quarry (Ruspidge), I also love routes like Armorican at Craig Caerfai and Rob's Crack at Fairy Cave (Trad slabs with ample pro).
I know of a few other Sport options on Gower (Barland Quarry, Watchouse Slabs), some North Pembroke sandstone, Baggy Point, some Culm stuff and selected North Wales Slate but wondered if there were other slabby and well protected options out there (VS - E2 Trad/5 - 6c sport). Either particular routes or even better crags with lots to go at on the easy side of vertical.
Any UK suggestions gratefully received...
Coel Hellier - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

There are lots in the Llanberis slate quarries, although you have to pick your route to get well-protected. Seamstress and Seams the Same are the usual places to start.
The Ivanator - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to Coel Hellier:

Yup, looking forward to some more Slate next time I'm in those parts. Done Seamstress, a few at Bus Stop and some of the easier bolted things in Australia/Never Never land. Want to get on the long Skyline Buttress 6a's.
davidbeynon - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

There are quite a few in north and south pembroke. Sandstone to the north, limestone to the south.
Choss on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Pontesford rocks.

Plump hill, for Esoteric.
The Ivanator - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to davidbeynon:

Not so familiar with the Southern options - done Bow Shaped Slab and know of Crystal Slabs, are there others?
spidermonkey09 - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Breaking the Barrier on Holyhead is great, fiddly but good gear :)
The Ivanator - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to Choss:

Looks interesting, any idea where I could get route topos for Pontesford from?
Judging by log comments sounds like some of the E grades there are bold affairs though.
The Ivanator - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to spidermonkey09:

Good shout, that is on the wishlist.
davidbeynon - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

There's a load of stuff on the coast west of Tenby. I normally base myself at Manorbier when I'm heading down there. Becks Point, Rusty Point and Giltar Slabs are fairly representative. Well worth a visit imho.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2503
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2504
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=869


The Ivanator - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to davidbeynon:

Cheers, those look spot on.
The Pylon King on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to Choss:


> Plump hill, for Esoteric.

very poorly protected and rather shit

Choss on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

> very poorly protected and rather shit

Thats what i said, Esoteric.

Kind of fun Though ;-)
wilkesley - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

> Looks interesting, any idea where I could get route topos for Pontesford from?

The only official guide is no longer available, as far as I know. However, I may have a pdf if I can find it!

Skip - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Maybe start a tick list. I also prefer slabs, would love to have a list of well protected slabs.
spidermonkey09 - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

I'd also look at Telli at Stanage- safe as houses once you get to the break, great climbing and I thought a complete gift at E3 (E2 more like).
Duncan Bourne - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to spidermonkey09:

A word of caution watch where you place your runners. I was belaying someone on that when they peeled off. Both cams failed and they decked. There are good placements but he didn't use them. Mind you the lucky sod was uninjured so he got up and did it again, with more success this time.
Not a route for shorties
Big Lee - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

A Dream of White Horses? I absolutely laced the crux. Wen is also very easy to protect.
Duncan Bourne - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Alderley Cliff has a fair few well protected slabs
Jonny2vests - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

> A Dream of White Horses? I absolutely laced the crux. Wen is also very easy to protect.

I kind of think a 'slab' route isn't just about angle, its about a style of route, otherwise most routes would qualify as slabs. So is DoWH a slab?

OP: Come to Squamish, there's loads of the damn things here.
Andy Nisbet - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

A lot of the climbing in Glen Nevis is slabby, also Ardnamurchan, Cairngorms in general, Creag Ghlas.
Al Evans on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to Duncan Bourne:

Do you mean Aldery Cliff?
Al Evans on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Have you done Sacre Coeur on Blackchurch Rock, I thought that was a well protected slab for E2.
Robin Woodward - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Oh, oh, Etive Slabs!
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to Robin UK:

I was going to suggest Spartan Slab on The Etive Slabs. I believe that there is a reasonably well protected HVS there too.
Dave Ferguson - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:
> (In reply to davidbeynon)
>
> Not so familiar with the Southern options - done Bow Shaped Slab and know of Crystal Slabs, are there others?

theres a few in bullslaughter bay, you can climb slabs straight off the beach
Robin Woodward - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to ChrisMurray:
I've only done The Pause (E1/HVS), but one of my favourite routes (also my first lead above VS).


Oh, and there's loads of other stuff up north Devon/Cornwall south of Baggy, Wreckers isn't really classic, but has character, some stuff down at Compass Point, Vicarage Cliff etc.

Rock Dancer at Kenidjack (and it's neighbours) is lovely, and The Needle and nieghbours at Shelterstone.

Devils Slide on Lundy is good, although Satan's Slip (E1) can't really be considered well protected :)
Post edited at 20:47
Michael Gordon - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to ChrisMurray:

Hammer/Pause are 'well protected for Etive' but I wouldn't put them in a well protected list! Spartan is a good call though.
chickenman - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Realm of the Senses at the Shelterstone is pretty well protected for a slab..
helix - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Botterill's Slab VS on Scafell is an absolute belter! The main pitch has a reasonable amount of gear - quite a few small nuts. We followed it up with Slab and Groove, another good VS, with a tough slab pitch.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Mick Ward - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

> Looks interesting, any idea where I could get route topos for Pontesford from?

Used to be in the old West Midlands(?) guide, I think. But you can wander around pretty much anywhere... it's that sort of place.

It's pretty limited. You wouldn't want to be travelling very far to go there.

Mick

LakesWinter on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Pot Black at Stanage is well protected and only E1 really
Mick Ward - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to Duncan Bourne:

[Re Telli]

> Not a route for shorties

Agreed. Entirely possible for the short, of course, but less of a soft touch.

'Just Mild Very Severe on one move only.' (John Menlove Edwards)

Mick
Bobling - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Arch Slab at Three Cliffs on the Gower? Great route IMHO.
Jon Stewart - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to Al Evans:
> Have you done Sacre Coeur on Blackchurch Rock, I thought that was a well protected slab for E2.

This the ultimate in well-protected slab, quite a rare beast. Very very slabby (60 degrees) and without a single resting foothold for the entire 40m, just thin vertical cracks that take wires and sometimes fingers. I found it insanely painful - I was wearing sloppy boots and my feet were screaming after 10m...only another 30m to go. Most people seem to think it's easy at E2 5b, but to me it felt 5c and painful/hard!

A truly classic route on an incredible, scenic piece of rock.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=59604
Post edited at 22:49
Tom V - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I ran out of gear 10 m below the top. Choices were to escape to the right arete or move up on adrenalin. I did the latter and it stands out as one of the best routes I've ever done. But, boy, did it hurt....!
Duncan Bourne - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I remember doing that route. I killed a limpit at the start alas as it was where I needed to put my gear. A great route nicely sustained with the odd moment to contemplate the next bit
Duncan Bourne - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Al Evans:

That's the one
SGD - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Yeh it felt 5c to me but the gale force winds may have had something to do with that. I also ran out of gear before the top so I ran it out with my feet screaming at me. What a route!
GrahamD - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Baggy point is your friend. Loads of good VS slab climbs.
Sacre Couer at Blackchurch is soft E2 with loads of wire protection.
Kenijack has some classic HVS/E1 lines.
Pocket Symphony at Beeston Tor -soft E1 -is brilliant (and its slightly harder companions)
Golden Slipper at Pavey Arc is a superb *** HVS with loads of good gear.
pasbury on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Springbank & Whits End Direct on Gimmer fit the bill though they both have a wee roof thrown in.
The Ivanator - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to GrahamD and others:

Thanks for all the replies so far, has given me quite a bit of food for thought.
Sacre Couer looks great, I'll have to be on form for the lead, but certainly one to aim for.
Done some VS/HVS at Baggy, but there's more to return for. Visited Kenidjack for Saxon and Rock Dancer (brilliant routes). Also done Golden Slipper (exquisite). Done Wreckers and Stormy Weather, but keen to do more on Culm. Matchless at Oldwalls looks especially tempting, is the gear OK on that?
Botterill's Slab and Arch Slab on 3 Cliffs are ones I've been eyeing for a while. I quite enjoy steeper pockety slabs like the Great Central Cave HVSes at Shorn Cliff too.
Anyone know what Sergeant Crag routes (Lakes) are like for gear? It looks like my sort of venue.
alexjz - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Another vote for Sacre Coeur at Blackchurch, really great route!

Another North Devon crag worth a visit is Screda point http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=673
All the E1s and E2s are great fun and well protected. Great rock and nice setting with a good pub nearby.

John2 - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

The Sergeant Crag routes are well protected. Not the best routes in the Lakes, but OK.
Iain Peters - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Matchless is very well protected. The peg at the crux is dodgy but there's a small cam just above. There's also a variation high tide start at the same grade from the platform below the front face. Whilst you're in the area Screda Point, Hippa Rock and Gull Rock all have excellent slab routes at the grade.
pasbury on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

I rate the Sergeant crag slab routes - nice angle, superb rock and good gear.
chris j on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Iain Peters: Anyone know anything about the E3 to the left of Matchless (More than a Match)? Is that especially bold?

Iain Thow - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to ChrisMurray:

Hammer is pretty well protected at easyish HVS. The Scoop pitch has no gear for a few feet but is right next to the belay and the traverse has a stonking runner in the corner you start from.
mattrm - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

At Three Cliffs, Scavenger and Arch Slab at VS and Inverted V at HVS. I've not done Inverted V, but while the bottom might be a bit bold, it doesn't look hard. There is apparently gear under the overhang.
Lord of Starkness - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Iain Thow:

> Hammer is pretty well protected at easyish HVS.


It was still VS when I did it (in the days before sticky rubber) but then again so were all of the routes on the Slabs!

Tom V - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Lord of Starkness:

I was going to recommend the excellent Mainsail at Brownspear but have just found out that it belongs in the "Routes that have fallen down" topic. Very sad to hear it.
Iain Peters - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to chris j:

There are two ways of surmounting the bottom roof. Direct is harder, or moving L is more straightforward. The slab above is reasonably run-out.

I'm hoping to resurrect Dominator, a starred E1/2 towards the LH side of the slab, which has disappeared under grass through neglect.
victim of mathematics - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Quartz Icicle - only 5b, good, if slightly spaced gear, great situation...

Sarclet Pimpernel is quite slabby I seem to recall, and the VS just to the left of it is outstanding. It is quite far away, mind.

Some of the stuff at Diabeg must fit the bill too, I'd have thought.
CurlyStevo - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Michael Gordon:
I did spartan slabs when VS was my limit, one of the pitches (I think the one before the overlap) has tasty 4c move with the last gear being a veryold peg several metres below my feet and the gear before that several metres below that. Didn't feel that well protected to me!
Post edited at 11:50
Darron - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

By no means comparable with the quality recommendations above but there are some bolt protected true slab lines in Penmenbach quarry (top part) and Dyserth castle slab. Worth knowing if you are in the area.
kyaizawa - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Skyline buttress is a good shout - routes like Plastic Soldier has bolts in double figures (and also some good moves). There's a fair amount else on the slate beyond Serengeti and Bus Stop - routes like Mental Lentils, Last Tango and Bella Lugosi are all pretty well protected.

Another vote for Arch slab at Three Cliffs, though I'm less convinced by Inverted V - it's not hard but it's not that well protected... I seem to remember placing multiple IMPs/small sized Stoppers.
Mike Highbury - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to victim of mathematics:

> Quartz Icicle - only 5b, good, if slightly spaced gear, great situation...

QI is as you describe it and you get to watch your second trying to make sense of the top pitch, which is an added bonus.
Jonny2vests - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> Quartz Icicle - only 5b, good, if slightly spaced gear, great situation...

I kind of think this is getting a bit silly now, there's more to it than angle.
Post edited at 14:07
victim of mathematics - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> I kind of think this is getting a bit silly now, there's more to it than angle.

I'm sorry, I have no idea what you mean?
Jonny2vests - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> I'm sorry, I have no idea what you mean?

Are you proposing Quartz Icicle as a slab route?
Post edited at 14:24
The Ivanator - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Big Lee)
>
> [...]
>
> I kind of think a 'slab' route isn't just about angle, its about a style of route, otherwise most routes would qualify as slabs.

Agreed, I guess it is the classic technical, balancy climbing on small holds/friction that most appeals to me. Certainly routes where footwork is more important than the ability to pull hard on holds. Repetitive padding appeals less than routes where there is variety in the moves, I love a big rockover move on tiny holds for example.
Jonny2vests - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Yeah. Have we had the Barcud routes yet? Kitten Claws et al.
johncoxmysteriously - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> Yeah. Have we had the Barcud routes yet? Kitten Claws et al.

Well protected?!

jcm


victim of mathematics - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> Are you proposing Quartz Icicle as a slab route?

Yup. Certainly the main pitch is. It climbs like a slab and the angle is slabby, which are the 2 main criteria for being a slab route in my book.

If it helps, I suspect my climbing is very similar to the OP (both in terms of interests and grades), and I thought QI was ace. You can always escape along DOWH if trying to identify the line of the top pitch is a bit much for you...
victim of mathematics - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> Yeah. Have we had the Barcud routes yet? Kitten Claws et al.

Hmm, some of the routes at the left end of the main slab are just about adequately protected with lots of tiny wires, but Kitten Claws is hard, quite bold and a terrible suggestion for somebody looking for routes up to E2...
Iain Thow - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Lord of Starkness:

Ah yes, I remember the delights of "Scottish VS" too. Once had a look at a Rab Carrington "VS" at Carnmore but bottled when it got to about 5c!
Jonny2vests - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> Well protected?!

> jcm

I seem to remember emptying a rack into Kitten Claws. Most of it was good gear.
Jonny2vests - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> Hmm, some of the routes at the left end of the main slab are just about adequately protected with lots of tiny wires, but Kitten Claws is hard, quite bold and a terrible suggestion for somebody looking for routes up to E2...

Revenge is it? As actual slab routes go, it has lots of gear. I'm hardly Henry J Bold you know.

As for the grade? Yes its outside of the defined parameters, but to make up for that, its piss (with stiff shoes).
Post edited at 15:16
John2 - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

There is good gear in Kitten Claws, there are also 5c moves well above that gear.
victim of mathematics - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> Revenge is it? As actual slab routes go, it has lots of gear. I'm hardly Henry J Bold you know.

> As for the grade? Yes its outside of the defined parameters, but to make up for that, its piss (with stiff shoes).

Hmm. I wombled my way up a couple of the E1s without issue (one of them in shoes that didn't fit), but only just managed to desperately crimp my way up Kitten Claws on second by the skin of my teeth. I lost all feeling in my fingertips half way up (which I presume is where the name came from).
Ander on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Well spaced bolts retain the adventrous feel.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1581

Jonny2vests - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to John2:
> There is good gear in Kitten Claws, there are also 5c moves well above that gear.

Come on now, it's at your feet for the crux. Have you led it?
Post edited at 16:30
John2 - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

No, I've seconded it a couple of times. I thought there were a few hard bits - I wouldn't have said there was a definite crux.
adam11 - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

'emptying a rack' - what a fantastic expression for describing a pitch. I'm going to use that when mentoring some young whippersnapper :)
davidbeynon - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

If you go to Gower the Great Slab at Caswell Bay is a fine HS. Just run out enough to feel interesting (to me), but the gear that is available is utterly bombproof.
Jonny2vests - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to John2:
> No, I've seconded it a couple of times. I thought there were a few hard bits - I wouldn't have said there was a definite crux.

There is a very well defined 5c crux where you ponder reaching some distant (for me) hold in clear view off to the right, just after half way, before it eases off.

Obvious 5b climbing to get there on good edges and slots. Don't remember the start, maybe its highbally? Or am I mixing it up with a neighbour...
Post edited at 17:25
Jon Stewart - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> Yeah. Have we had the Barcud routes yet? Kitten Claws et al.

Like the others, I thought Kitten Claws was a slab with crap gear. Quite alot of it, admitedly, but spaced, tiny and sometimes crap. Scary enough, I thought. There must be good well protected slabs at Barcud, but the ones I've done were bold.
Stone Idol - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to chris j:

More than a Match is stunning and the slab is real contrast to the start. Reasonable gear and a great route
Macca_7 - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Loads of excellent slab climbs down here on the Culm Coast.

Harpoon at Vicarage is excellent. Although thinking about it not overly well protected. The other Vicarage routes are good mind.

The Blisterin Barnacle Slab at Dyers has some fantastic slab climbing reasonably protected which I think hasn't been mentioned.

Enjoy

Macca
TRip - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> Are you proposing Quartz Icicle as a slab route?

The Quartz Icicle Pitch certainly is.

Zeus to the right of it is another good, well protected (soft) E2 slab.
Michael Gordon - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Iain Thow:

> Hammer is pretty well protected at easyish HVS. The Scoop pitch has no gear for a few feet but is right next to the belay and the traverse has a stonking runner in the corner you start from.

I thought Hammer was pretty solid HVS, similar to Pause. The runout on the scoop pitch is definitely a lot more than 'a few feet' and the traverse is 5b.
Mick Ward - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to Macca_7:

> Harpoon at Vicarage is excellent.

But hardly suitable for the OP - some quite bold 5b with scanty gear.


> The other Vicarage routes are good mind.

Agree.


Mick




Jonny2vests - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to TRip:

> The Quartz Icicle Pitch certainly is.

Then so are most routes in the UK then.
Jonny2vests - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> Like the others, I thought Kitten Claws was a slab with crap gear. Quite alot of it, admitedly, but spaced, tiny and sometimes crap. Scary enough, I thought. There must be good well protected slabs at Barcud, but the ones I've done were bold.

Bold in places, maybe, but not naughty.
Motown - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Macca_7:

Up to HVS well protected at Vicarage. The E1 - Crazy Paving? - is loose and Harpoon pretty run out. The E1 off the beach was very safe as there seems to be grass underneath you most of the way!

Tom Last - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Another vote for Matchless and More Than a Match, great routes.
victim of mathematics - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> Then so are most routes in the UK then.

I'm not really sure what your problem is here. It's significantly off-vertical, climbs like a slab and the bit of rock is called Wen Slab. How much more slabby do you want?!
Skyfall - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to pasbury:

> I rate the Sergeant crag slab routes

Yes, a lot of good ones.

Aphasia is probably the stand out route at E2 5b. Reasonably sustained and the gear is actually quite good if you don't mind fiddling pieces into crozzly pockets and the like.
GrahamD - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to victim of mathematics:

I remember Quartz icicle being a rising traverse of a crack line with the odd good handjam. Not really the epitome of a slab.

I'd have thought some of the Tremadog VS/HVS classics are a better shout for slab climbing than Wen Slab
victim of mathematics - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to GrahamD:

If you're trying to suggest that QI is a crack climb, then I think you're misremembering somewhat...
GrahamD - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to victim of mathematics:

I'm not saying its a crack climb - I'm saying that the crack and rising traverse means plus the nature of the moves means it doesn't feel like a slab climb. At least it didn't to me.
Iain Thow - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Michael Gordon:

I reckon the scoop is only 3 moves, jumpable to the ledge if you bottle it, and although the traverse is hard the runner is higher than you (if a bit off left). The old codger in front of us led it as his first HVS without turning a hair. I'm really only a VS leader but had no problems with it. It used to be second bottom of the graded list in the ye olde 1970s guide and I thought that fair enough. Isn't it a great route though! :-)
Mike Highbury - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to GrahamD:

> I'm not saying its a crack climb - I'm saying that the crack and rising traverse means plus the nature of the moves means it doesn't feel like a slab climb. At least it didn't to me.

I think that we should abandon QI. It is a rising traverse, run out in places and the second pitch can be difficult to navigate. That said the OP should still consider doing.

How about Britomatis that's a slab, isn't it? And either member of the party can fall into the sea if the mood so takes them.
Jonny2vests - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to GrahamD:

> I remember Quartz icicle being a rising traverse of a crack line with the odd good handjam. Not really the epitome of a slab.

That's how I remember it, and a bulge in its upper reaches.
Jonny2vests - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to victim of mathematics:

> I'm not really sure what your problem is here. It's significantly off-vertical, climbs like a slab and the bit of rock is called Wen Slab. How much more slabby do you want?!

So all the routes on Wen Slab are slab routes then? Concrete Chimney, is that a slab?
Carless - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Seem to remember 2 out Be Careful, Be Brave & Be Clever trio were ok for gear
The technically easiest (5a?) being a bit run-out
AlexBush - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

'The Meltdown' is a bolted slab. Not one for me though!
Michael Gordon - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Iain Thow:

It is a very good route!
James Oswald - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

The Hypocrite at Carreg-y-Barcud. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=26087

Deserves more ascents.
Macca_7 - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Motown:

The routes up to HVS are all pretty well protected and as I said Harpoon is a little bold.

Cheers
Tom Last - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Slippery Slab at Sennen. Good tough VS 5a.
Al Evans on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> So all the routes on Wen Slab are slab routes then? Concrete Chimney, is that a slab?

Yes, it only crosses the concrete chimney.
Jonny2vests - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to Al Evans:
> Yes, it only crosses the concrete chimney.

Que?

I think we're talking about different things perhaps.
Post edited at 13:46
GrahamD - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

Concrete chimney is a very exposed rising traverse almost parallel and below Quartz Icicle. Al is right. It doesn't climb the chossy looking chimney.

Wen is the only real chimney route AFAIK on the slab.
Jonny2vests - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to GrahamD:

> Concrete chimney is a very exposed rising traverse almost parallel and below Quartz Icicle. Al is right. It doesn't climb the chossy looking chimney.

Yes, I know. But I was asking if all the routes on Wen Slab were, by definition, slab routes.

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