/ How to keep ticking over with a broken wrist?

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adagiono1 - on 12 Mar 2014
Hey folks,
Broken right wrist will take 12 weeks to heal.
Any constructive advice on how to keep things ticking over until recovery?
I have access to an indoor wall.
Anyone with personal experience of what worked or didn't as the case may be?

luke obrien - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to adagiono1:
My daughter broke her wrist and near her elbow recently doing gymnastics. The consultant told us no weight bearing exercise or hanging for 12 weeks or it would affect the healing. She has basic physio now her cast is off (press ups against the wall and thera band stuff to re strengthen the muscle and tendons) and is good to do gymnastics and climbing in a few weeks.

From what I've read it's not worth risking it hanging off stuff too early. Guess you could spend the time really focusing on footwork on slabs and flexibility and core work.
JIMBO on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to adagiono1:

When I broke my hand I just climbed one handed for a couple of months. Bit rubbish but learnt lots about my body position...
dpm23 - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to adagiono1:

I broke my wrist in June last year and it was just over 4 months before I climbed again. It was a nasty break and I was lucky not to end up with pins so you may be more fortunate than me (not all breaks are equal).

After 7 weeks in plaster (I didn't climb one handed, it was my dominant hand and the slightest knock was painful++) it was taken off and I got quite a shock - massive reduction in flexibility, muscle wastage, and a lot of pain. It was the end of October before I climbed again. Perhaps I could have pushed it harder and climbed earlier but I did not want to risk a poor recovery, especially as it was my dominant hand. I kept up with the physio and exercises and, although I will always be reminded that I fractured it, I can climb without problem now.

I guess one-handed stuff on a top-rope could keep the climbing blues away (I missed the whole of a great summer!) other than that, watch you don't put on weight (I did as I found myself less active overall). I should have done some gentle cardio and abdominal work.

Hope you have a good recovery.
Dandan82 - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to adagiono1:

I climbed one-handed for several weeks after a shoulder op, it kept me from going bonkers through lack of exercise but I do now have a bit of an imbalance in my trapezius muscles which is taking some time to even back out, so be mindful of ending up lopsided!

I ended up doing a lot of slacklining which was great for balance, especially with one arm, and surprisingly strenuous, although it does carry the inherent risk of falling off and damaging your wrist again if you are the clumsy type...
Loughan - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to adagiono1:

Not much help for direct climbing but I've taken to the. Recumbent bike at the gym to maintain fitness when I broke my elbow a few weeks ago. Am actually losing weight so it's not all bad

I've got the same 3 month period before moving on to anything that will stress it
andy_e on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to adagiono1:

As already mentioned, be ready to expect a lot of muscle wastage when the cast comes off. The best thing you can do now, would be to try your best to move and stretch your fingers to help them heal.

I broke my wrist in august last year, and to be honest its now back to 85% of its previous strength, I'm climbing terms it seems to be my left bicep that is holding me back on locks off etc..

To help your hand heal, make sure you see a physio at least once and stick with the lots of stretches. Things like, stretching your wrist back as if praying, forward, and rotating, opening and closing fingers, and spreading fingers. Stick with this and flexibility will come back, get your self a squeaky ball and then a light finger grip trainer like the www.prohands.net/

For the time being, you could do lots of core exercises, leg raises, calf raises, sit ups etc and any other similar exercises. I find that i can do pull ups no problem, but push ups hurt as that position is similar to how i broke my wrist.

Good luck and have a fast recovery.
adagiono1 - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to adagiono1:

Cheers guys,

The break is a bad one resulting in pins.
I was naive in the original post, recovery could take 6-9 months.
I think I'll focus on cardio, core and flexibility.

Thanks for sharing experiences and advice.... much appreciated.


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