/ El Chorro

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Tree on 13 Mar 2014
I've got 10 days booked in El Chorro this easter, has anyone climbed there, and if so, can you give me an idea of what to look out for, and what gear I'll need? I'm assuming it's 99% sport routes and basic harness/shoes/chalk/quickdraws will suffice? Cheers, Tree. :)
hms - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Tree:

80m rope useful. Plus something you can use as a basic VF kit if you want to go along the walkway - I used slings which is not really recommended, a bit of dynamic rope would be better.
Tree on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to hms:
Thanks, we're sharing rope to save on weight. :)
I think the Caminito might be closed for real while we are there: unless we slip on further up somehow. That and I promised my wife I wouldn't...
Post edited at 12:40
GridNorth - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to hms:

I wouldn't worry too much about using slings on the walkway. It's all traversing and you are never really in a position where you might build up slack in the system or get into a position where you would create excesive dynamic forces. It's not like a VF where you could potentially fall several metres.
Tree on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to hms:

How dodgy is it? the missing chunks of concrete kinda make me wonder what else a big chap like me could dislodge. Excited by it too, however.
hms - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Tree:

as a climber? it's fine. As a member of the general public? Death on a stick!
Tree on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Tree:

It'd be rude not to, then
Big Rich - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Tree:

Take loads of quickdraws - 15 would be fine

A clip stick may be useful depends on how bold you are.

80 metre rope is a very good idea

Double Knee Bar - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to GridNorth:

Id strongly advise the use of via ferrata kit to reduce the shock on the cables if you happened to fall/the walkway collapses on you. The crimps on the wires are hardly in their best condition and im sure it would only take a low force to shift them. Youd get away with a 70 single. Wouldnt recomend twins for sport climbing there.

Rockfax guide is a bit dated with its recomendation of taking trad gear. A lot of the classic lines like amtrax are now fully bolted.
Tree on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Tree:

I always prefer a stout single: might stuff one in and leave other stuff behind instead.

Any favourite routes?
GridNorth - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Double Knee Bar:

You have your opinion I have mine. Personally I don't think there is much chance of building up much in the way of force and if the cable fixings are that bad I wouldn't want to be attached to them at all.
Double Knee Bar - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to GridNorth:

Each to their own.
We saw a guy while we were on it last week who was a freerunner doing handstands at certain points.

Just wouldn't risk it with the state of the concrete personally.
GrahamD - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Tree:

I've been 2 or 3 times and at my grades (5 - 6b) I've always been happy with a 60m rope and 14 or 15 quickdraws. No trad gear. A sling if you want for the walkway but its really just a comfort thing. You don't need VF kit for it.
mkean - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Tree:

The walkway isn't exactly wheelchair friendly but isn't hugely dangerous/ taxing if you pay attention to what you are standing on: In some places the walkway is a single layer of unreinforced concrete <1" thick which obviously isn't very strong, but these areas (at least on the bits I have been on) have been pretty easy to spot and avoid. There is a safety cable fixed to the wall on most sections but it is of variable quality, some sections probably wouldn't support a damp towel but thankfully seem to be on much more solid sections of the path. From what I've seen the good cable is generally indicative of a dodgy bit of path, presumably some sort of "danger averaging system" is in use ;-)

Some of the beams are a little more exciting for shorter climbers as they can be a reasonable distance from the wall.

There are definitely sections of cable which wouldn't hold a fall on a static lanyard, although they seem to be in areas where a fall is less likely so it comes down to a personal risk assessment. I used a few lengths of dynamic rope with slightly loose (but stoppered) knots in the hope of adsorbing some of the shock if I did fall off. When I did it the most risky bit was the group wandering about and setting up an abseil off the end of the walkway by the first railway tunnel as they were directly above the heads of people traversing below and the path there is pretty dodgy.
balmybaldwin - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Tree:

A small rack of nuts is a good idea if you want to do some of the bigger routes like Africa where the bolts get very spaced out in places.
GrahamD - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to balmybaldwin:

> A small rack of nuts is a good idea if you want to do some of the bigger routes like Africa where the bolts get very spaced out in places.

A bit academic for someone who's profile has HS as best trad grade !
Tree on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to GrahamD:

Lol! Yeah, that needs updating, I turn 40 soon as well.
TonyB - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Tree:

Do you want to do long single pitch endurance routes? If so a 70m would be great. If you don't then a 60m is fine. I can't comment on multipitch.
Tree on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to TonyB:
I've the luxury of 10 days, so I plan to do as much as possible. Until my fingers bleed and then some. :D
stp - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Tree:

If it's hot, and it probably will be, there are a bunch of nearby crags that are in the shade all day, typically 30 - 45 mins drive. Your tips will last much longer climbing on cooler rock.
Tree on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to stp:

Thanks for the tip!
Joking aside, I'm hoping it'll be cool enough to enjoy in April, it's breath-stealingly hot in August.
johncook - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to GridNorth:

The camineto will probably be closed as they are due to start work on refurbishing it sometime now. They are spending 2.1 million euros on it (The EU gave them 3.2 million, but they are keeping the extra for 'something else'!
Tree on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to johncook:

It'll be interesting to find out how they are doing it: total resto or a tourist VF?
Danny_boulders - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to Tree:

80 metre rope essential if you want to get on the longer routes

Harness 20 quickdraws for the longer routes

Clip stick for first bolts

Strong sun cream

Hope this helps….
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Tree on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to Danny_boulders:

Everything is helpful! Cheers. :)

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