/ Crags for easy climbing near Newcastle this weekend

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MB42 - on 13 Mar 2014

Given the rubbish weather in Scotland it looks like theres a good chance I'll be visiting a friend in Newcastle this weekend and hoping to get out for a days climbing, he climbs very rarely so looking for easy stuff (VS and down) and not too far (about 1.5 hrs drive from Newcastle at most).

Been to Peel/Crag Lough before which fits the bill but only in Summer, whats it like in winter? Suggestion seems to be it will be rather character building in the winds forecast.

Don't know any of the other Northumberland crags, any recommendations for ones good in winter and with reasonable easier routes would be great. UKC map suggests Brimham area might just be in range too, would be nice to get back on grit but whats it like on a windy day?

Any suggestions gratefully received, cheers.
Post edited at 23:32
Chris Huntington - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to MB42:

Wainstones would fit the bill in Cleveland. Lots of easier routes and the crag is very sheltered.
Choss on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to MB42:

Bowden, back bowden, Kyloe?
JDal - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to MB42:

Kyloe Out would be your best bet at those grades. But Brimham is only about 15 miles further away if you fancy Yorks grit.
Bulls Crack - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to JDal:

Kyloe Out seconded - nicer than Brimham!
kyaizawa - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to MB42:

Kyloe Out's ok but I'd say Bowden is better - has loads of good routes at VS and below (Russett Groove, Castle Crack, Black and Tan, The Scoop, Scorpion, Banana Wall, and slightly harder Lorraine and Tiger's Wall).

Or go for something like Scugdale/Slipstones which have short trad/solo routes that are great for colder weather (minimal faff, lots of easy routes and mileage). Would probably need a pad and a rack for all the diffrent routes/depending on what you're comfortable doing.

Wouldn't recommend Brimham - was there last weekend and much of it is luminous green and/or sandy. Nor Peel Crag/Crag Lough as they're both north facing, probably still damp and baltic at this time of year.
phleppy on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to MB42:

Try Wolf Crag, it's less than a 30 minute drive from Newcastle, a bit past Belsay, close to the road and there isn't that much hard stuff there and it's a nice little crag.
planetmarshall on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to kyaizawa:

> Kyloe Out's ok but I'd say Bowden is better - has loads of good routes at VS and below (Russett Groove, Castle Crack, Black and Tan, The Scoop, Scorpion, Banana Wall, and slightly harder Lorraine and Tiger's Wall).

Not sure I'd recommend Bowden given the strong westerlies.
kyaizawa - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to planetmarshall:
Wouldn't say they're that strong http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/middleton-(northumberland)-northumberland#?tab=f... but a fair point. Somewhere like Kyloe would be much more sheltered.
Post edited at 13:31
MB42 - on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to all:

Cheers everyone, that's great. Looks like Kyloes the best bet in the weather, possibly poking a head at Bowden if its not too bad or playing on some of the short crags recommended. Definitely glad I've saved bothering with a round trip down to the Dales.

Thanks again, have a good weekend all.
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full stottie on 14 Mar 2014
In reply to MB42:

Kyloe Out the best choice I think - I live 20 mins from Bowden and its very windy here today, similar forecast for tomorrow.
Have fun

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