/ Looking for climbers in Hampshire for research

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Ncik - on 27 May 2014
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Research as part of a MSc study in Sports Performance at the University of Portsmouth is investigating how forearm muscular fatigue is effected differently between top-roping and lead climbing and needs your help.
We are looking for healthy climbers aged 18-39 who can on-sight lead climb at a grade of 6a to 7a (sport) and have suffered no injury in the past 6 months.
The study involves a single session at the Alton High-Sport Climbing Centre where you will be asked to climb a sport 6a route three times. The entrance fee will be paid for by the investigator and you will be allowed to stay as long as you want at the climbing centre upon the completion of the session.
Of course, taking part is completely voluntary.

For more information about the study and on taking part, please contact Nicolas Desnos (Principle Investigator) on 07540225541 or nicolas.desnos@myport.ac.uk, or alternatively Dr. Chris Mills (Supervisor) on 023 9284 5294 or chris.mills@port.ac.uk.
The Jazz Butcher on 28 May 2014
In reply to Ncik:

Why an upper limit of 39? I am sure, well actually I know, there are many climbers over 39 who are fitter, stronger and healthier than climbers under 39 - my self not included of course, as I have endeavoured to have a very unhealthy lifestyle!

Ncik - on 28 May 2014
In reply to Richard White:

Hi Rich,

I am well aware that there are very proficient climbers over the age of 40. However it is university policy, participants over the age of 39 would need to have a full medical before they could take part. I do not have the funds to do this, that is why there is an age restriction.

If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to ask.

alexanderjwatts - on 28 May 2014
In reply to Ncik:

I suggest you post a physical copy of this at the Alton wall and speak with the Alton Mountaineering Club, if you have not already done so.

I believe that a local university (portsmouth or southampton) also attend Alton High Sports on a regular basis.
The Jazz Butcher on 28 May 2014
In reply to Ncik:

Hi Nick,

Thanks for that. Wasn't aiming any criticism at you or your study. Just midly / satirically affronted at the suggestion that us over 40's are a health risk.

What does your Uni think? That everyone 40 and over is close to a heart attack?

Good luck with the research. My Uni research was limited to walking around the Ardnammurchan Peninsula in the rain mapping the geology.

Ncik - on 03 Jun 2014
In reply to alexanderjwatts:

I had not thought of contacting the Alton Mountaineering Club, that is now done. I believe that physical posters should have been put up or so I was told by high sports.

I have contacted the Portsmouth uni climbers but most are away for the summer.

So I thought UKC hopefully some of you will be able to spare the time it will only take 1-2 hours and you get a free session at the wall from it.
Dan1898 - on 05 Jun 2014
In reply to Ncik:

Hi Nick, I live in fleet and regularly down to Portsmouth. If you have no joy please let me know and I can get down to Alton easily enough.


alexanderjwatts - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Ncik:

Let me know when you intend to run this and i'll let you know if i can attend ( i am unfortunately away with work quite a bit).

If i can, i would be happy to help you out.


Ncik - on 13 Jun 2014
In reply to alexanderjwatts:

Hi Jamie,

I am going to be running the testing in the next few weeks if you want to participate I can arrange times to suite you. If you have a regular climbing partner that would be willing to do the testing with you that would be the best as I can not belay and run the test. Please contact me by email at nicolas.desnos@myport.ac.uk to further discus your possible involvement.


Ncik - on 13 Jun 2014
In reply to Dan1898:

Hi Dan,

Thank you for showing interest in my study. I appeciate the offer and will keep it in mind, however I wouldnt want to impose the journey on you unless I really need another participant. If you want more detailed information about the study email me at nicolas.desnos@myport.ac.uk

Thank you

Firestarter on 20 Jun 2014
In reply to Ncik:

Would a disclaimer signed by anyone over 40 work? I think there might be a worthy study in comparing results between your first group (18 -39) and a second group (40 - ?). I think it would be interesting to see if I get pumped quicker/for longer/more intensely than my younger cohorts?!
Gwilymstarks on 22 Jun 2014
In reply to Firestarter:

You have hit the nail on the head. As people get older they can develop more stamina than they had as a younger person so I believe that a lot of good research is being missed by this arbitrary age limit.

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