/ UKC Fit Club Week 376

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mattrm - on 01 Jun 2014
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.

Psyche video of the week - http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=2122 - Suggestions welcome

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=588002

hms - Lots of cycling there. Good session at the weekend.
Nick Russell - Closing down the wall gap.
Stevemarkperry - Decent wodge of bouldering and riding.
Tubb93 - Lots of hard boulders there. Nice!
ppg - 8th bolt on Baboo. Well done.
Alun - Keeping the weight down while not doing much climbing.
mrchewy - re the campusing, would you not be better off just climbing more? Less boring too.
leon - Is the elbow better? Did you get the E1 in?
Goonie - Congrats mate. All the best to you, the missus and the new arrival. Even more impressive that you got out climbing a fortnight after the sprog dropped. I know guys who've taken months to get back to climbing.
Ally Smith - Good luck for Unjustified, I'm sure it'll come soon.
mbh - Pity you didn't make it up to the Lakes, the forecasts were totally wrong all weekend and it didn't rain til Weds.
IainRUK - 90 miles and 17th place in a 10k. Good luck in the 50 miler next week.
Paul Baxter - Bludgeon is excellent isn't it? Great route. Well done on breaking into HVS, it's such a 'proper' climber milestone. Which HVSes at Wyndcliff?
Curious Yellow - Did you get the V6 this week?
Ali - Solid week there. Well done on the orienteering.
Tyler - Tell ER I want him back on here ASAP! re Todal, I'm sure you'll get it if you keep at it. Just remember, it's only a grade ;)
Just Tintin - Excellent amounts of volume there. Pity no outdoors.
Dandan82 - Don't get sucked into the garden stuff. Takes up too much time. Glad to hear injuries are getting better.
Exile - Decent wodge of riding. Glad you enjoyed Giggleswick.
JimmyKay - Well done on the 8a and 7c. Impressive.
Humperdink - Decent fast week there.
Biscuit - How are you finding the yoga? Decent amount of running and some climbing at the infamous Horseshoe Quarry.
Curious Yellow - on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Morning! As I'm around I'll post now...
No V6 yet, I've made backwards progress on it in fact!

Mon: Back on Realm of Chaos. Conditions a bit rubbish (it's next to the sea and needs afternoon sun to be climbable) but starting to make better links. Still too chicken to lead the top couple of bolts.
Tues: Rest.
Wedns: Wall. Careful campus, no complaints from forearm which is improving steadily. Bouldered for a bit, unable to repeat crux of V6.
Thurs: Rest.
Fri: Cuttings. Hall of Mirrors the only thing even slightly dry when we arrived so got on that. Feeling really solid on all the moves, basically ready to start redpoints I think.
Sat: Wallsend. Terrible conditions and feeling wiped out from previous day. Highpoint - 2nd bolt of Realm of Chaos!!
Sun: Rest, probably.
Ali - on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to Curious Yellow:

So you psyched for HoM then?! :D Not sure when I'll be able to get back down to Portland though

Glad to hear your elbow is getting better...
Ali - on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt. Basically a complete non-exercise week for me - work stuff meant I couldn't climb the evenings I'd planned to and have felt totally dopey all week - really really struggled to get up in the mornings so not been able to run in. Various other people I've spoken to have said the same, so reckon it was something to do with the weather as feeling better now!

I reckon ceilidhing Friday night counts as exercise of a sort... Yesterday went to Brean. Warmed up and got on Chulilla (7b+) on top rope (first time on it). Managed to work all the moves first go and second go did it in two (ish - I was very slappy at the top and may have had a tiny bit of rope tension on a move lower down but not really sure). Apart from getting totally boxed due to lack of fitness it felt pretty much ok and easier than quite a few 7bs I've been on. Think it just suits me though, or maybe I was having a good day! Hoping I can get down for another day soon to try and tick it.

45 mins run this morning - bit of a recee for some work stuff so a bit stop and go.
heelhookofglory - on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt.

A steady week this week as I wanted to be fresh for the race on Sunday. My goal was a top 20% in category and I came 6th out off 66! Which means I was top 10%, happy with that. I've enjoyed training for this and although the race was hard I have enjoyed it. It will be nice to be able to focus a little more on the climbing now, though.

This Week:

Weight: 144 lbs

M: Eastern Grit bouldering in the morn (bumped into Ron Fawcett!), Western Grit in afternoon. 9km mountain bike in evening (recovery ride).
T: 12km MTB / Pushups
F: Pullups / barbell curls
S: 10km Mountain bike, spinning the legs up for tomorrow's race. Pushups (weighted), pullups/lockoffs, barbell curls
S: Summer Classic XC mountain bike race, placing 6th out of 66

Drunk Enough Font 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
Top 20% in category Summer Classic XC at Cannock on 1st June (TICK! Actually top 10% with 6th out of 66)
-> Get weight back down to 140ish
-> Sleeping With The Flowers 6C+/7A (Roaches)
-> Simple Simon Indirect (Churnet)
-> The Undercut (Churnet)
Second more routes on trad
Lead Severe (Route TBD)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Hit the trails on the MTB when possible

MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolidate at Font 7A
Tick a Font 7B
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet

VLTG (plus some superficially grade-based for now):
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Rjukan
7B, E1, WI6, VI 6, ED Alpine
Consolidate winter experience
mbh - on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to stevemarkperry:

6th out of 66! You devil you, well done!
heelhookofglory - on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to mbh:

Haha! Cheers mate, feeling it a bit now!
Tubb93 - on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks mattrm

STG (by end of May)

Boulder v6inside (Tick!!)
Consolidate v5 outside: left hand traverse flake start start at parisellas (Tick), Oh yeah!! (Tick), and pacman arete.
Get lots done on two week trip to kalymnos (TICK)
Climb 6c (Managed 6B+ so pretty happy)

MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder v6 in font (September) and v7 by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b

Lead 8a
Boulder v9

This week:
M- rest
T- went to cromlech, climbed the scoop sit start (v4) got further on the cave route, and had a play on Jerry's roof for a bit of fun
W- rest
T- rest
F- ill
S- ill
S- ill
A pretty rubbish week. But am off to the Lake District tomorrow for a week so weather committing will get a lot of mileage . Pretty happy with progress on the cave route but probably won't get back on it until September...
Exile - on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing fit club.


Rock this year: RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar) & lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)

Next winter start with VI 7

Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

M: Chasing my lads around blue loop and bike park at Afan Argoed
T: 50min hilly road ride
W: 1hr 30 butch endurance at wall
T: 50min hilly road ride
F: 1hr20 fingery endurance at bridge
S: Nothing
S: 1hr 20 butch endurance - 10 x there and back and on V3/4 Badger Rock traverse

Steady week, good training but would be good to put it into action.

Just over 11.5st now.
hms - on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for the write up, Matt. When I next went to UCR I found that the comp route I had guessed at 6c+ had been given 7a, so last weekend I did 2 7as clean, which I'm rather chuffed with - long time since I've last got 2 in a single session.

M ByG, lethally slippery on the approach path, and almost all the short routes seemed to be dripping. Had 3 more goes on the 7b+ project and have now lead all the moves. A couple of the foot positions aren't clear in my mind yet, so will take a bit more work, but I know I can do it all.
T cycle commute
W cycle commute then UCR in the evening: 6a+ 6b / 6b 6b / 6c 6b / 6c 6c / 6c+ 6b+ / 6c 6b. Hot and busy by the end
T cycle commute. TRX upper body x 2 then core x 2 in the evening
F Bouldering at Bloc, trying some of the comp routes from the previous night with mixed success.
S rest, apart from a 3 mile walk
S New Quarry, Avon, so the ultimate in GQRs! 2 6b routes then an E3 which was almost entirely a clip-up but quite good - pleased to get it.

half term is now over so back to exam angst with daughter, but far fewer exams now. Hope to get back on the project one afternoon this week and get those final foot positions sorted.
Post edited at 20:25
JayK - on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt, although I didn't tick the 8a.

Apologies for the mutterings that I come out with. I tend to treat this as a blog post and waffle on about what I'm thinking sometimes.

So I'm not sure about how I felt this week. I've been down in the dumps for a lot of it. I've put more time and effort in to both training and getting out bouldering then I've ever done in the past. However I felt a lot like I had regressed this week.

Now I've been getting out and sending some hard bouldering with relative ease of late so I was getting really confused. 2 of the things that were really stopping me on routes were: getting pumped at the 5th bolt, and; poor footwork taking the weight off my arms.

I know what I need to do to prevent pump. I'll be working two endurance sessions in at the wall every week for the next 6 weeks. Does anyone think I should 3 or more in? That should give me a bit more fitness.

The second problem: the footwork. Now I was going strong in my teams before I left for Spain. I was absolutely gutted when I got to Spain and realised they were about to go through. I didn't get on well with my whites at all. I kept putting all my weight on my arms the minute routes got hard. Bought some Dragons on Friday which were too tight until this evening. I put them on for a quick bash on Storm Warning. It was like recovering from blindness and being able to see again. I struggled all day on Chuilla in my whites. As soon as I put my Dragon's on, I could shake out on every hold on Storm Warning. I know it's soft for 7c but even so, it felt like an absolute path. Footholds everywhere.

So I guess what I'm trying to say, is that I needed this week to hone my training for the seriously big goals like 8c RP and 8a O/S. Mood is up again, and I'm back into training tomorrow evening until Tres Ponts in July.

M- Loja should have O/S 7b as warm up, went second go. Soft 7b+ flash.
T- Back on the 8a. One good go before jacking it in due to poor skin.
w- Quick play at encatadas. Poor psyche and commitment on a 7a+ O/S meant I got spat off the 5+ top section. Did it second go.
S-Torbryan Retro'd Barny Rubble to warm up before having a few burns on Threadbare 7c+. Got shut down at the 5/6th bolt. Too tired as I'd climbed the entire route on my fingers.
S-Brean, took 3 attempts to send Chuilla. Then put draws in Storm Warning and put Dragon's on. Went first try finding every move easy. No pump, no struggle, footholds everywhere.
mattrm - on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks grubes. Just have to consolidate it now and get up to 6c/7a.

STG - Climb 6c (or V4) @ wall , 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 11st 12lbs (3 lbs gain)

M - 8 miles walk (Bowfell and Crinkle Crags) + bouldering at Langdale boulders
T - 6 miles walk (inc Castle Crag)
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - 10 hours digging garden
S - 7 hours digging garden
S - 7 hours digging garden

Nice week up in the Lakes. Had a great walk on Monday. Lovely view from Bowfell, one of the best so far. Came back on Thursday and spent the rest of the time off finishing off the garden. Removed the tree stump, built two retaining walls (there will be three in total). Removed a bunch of waste down the tip. There's one solid days worth of work still to come, it's taking me about a day to dig the trench, mix the concrete and lay the sleepers to make a wall.

Finally got my long term project at Langdale boulders, it's just a V0+ but I've been plugging away at it a couple of times. Actually my hardest outside problem. Long term mainly cause I've only tried it a couple of times before on previous trips and I don't go up that often. Love climbing at the boulders, it's such a nice venue with a great range of problems.

Also I'm off to Morocco in November for a week which I'm super psyched about. Been reading the guidebook and it looks amazing. Need to get a bit more tradding in before that. But still it's going to be ace.
Post edited at 22:08
Nick Russell on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:
> I tend to treat this as a blog post and waffle on about what I'm thinking sometimes.

I'm not the only one then... Actually I quite like reading other people's ramblings sometimes, it gives a bit more insight than just the list of workouts.

> Does anyone think I should 3 or more [endurance sessions] in? That should give me a bit more fitness.

In as much as my opinion's useful, 2 good endurance sessions should be enough to make some gains, but endurance is fairly 'safe' training, so no harm in more. The main reason not to would be if it prevented you from maintaining other aspects.
Nick Russell on 01 Jun 2014
In reply to mattrm:

> Nick Russell - Closing down the wall gap.

Thanks for the stats Matt. Morocco sounds really cool - I've been considering going for a while now. I expect a decent report when you get back!

M - Weather in Leeds cleared, went climbing at Almscliff. Did Great Western and Demon Wall, then played on some of the bouldering. Managed Dolphin Belly Slap (7A in the current definitive - I'll take that as my first of the grade!) and Flying Arete (topout was a bit fluttery without a pad). A good day - I like that crag!
T - 7.5km run, core
W - Swimming (2.6km)
T - 7km run, core (not much though, just a few planks and L-hangs)
F - Rest
S - Pembroke, beautiful day for it. Warmed up on Manzoku and Lucky Strike then jumped on Pleasure Dome (E3), really pleased to get the onsight.
S - Avon: Puke (HVS), Gymslip (E4 solo), Floating Voter (VS ice-skating)

Some good climbing this week. Pleasure Dome put up a bit of a fight, I must have been on the route for about 90 minutes, mostly 'shaking out' at a non-rest, making intermittent half-arsed attempts to make upwards progress. Eventually decided to engage the brain and it turned out to be pretty easy, despite the by-then ridiculous pump. I'm pleased to be feeling confident in my ability to not have an epic on committing sea cliff E3s...

At the other end of the scale the bouldering was really good fun, but a couple of hours grit bouldering always leaves me completely worked! Happy with the Avon highball today too, did it ground-up without a pad, including some pretty hairy jumps from about half way. It's a good landing, else I wouldn't have been on it...

2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 3, clean onsight: 1 (+1 weird highball, ground-up)
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 184/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 (26.3*) 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*, 1:09.58 100 IM
*Relay splits

Short-term goals
  • Get some sport mileage in 7b-7c range.
    Current 7c project: Almost Me. Hopefully get a session on it with hms this coming week
  • 2 core sessions per week
    Done last week, keep it up...
  • Plan/train for trips in September/October: 1 week in Lundy, 2 weeks in US East Coast.
    Plan to book US flights this week
  • Joughton on 01 Jun 2014
    In reply to JimmyKay:
    Had exactly the same thing when I was out in Spain. Wore my whites on all the 'face' or 'techy' routes because I thought Dragons would be overkill and too down turned. Felt like climbing in wellies. Then I put Dragons on and I genuinely jumped a grade just through feeling more comfortable and confident in my feet.

    Best shoes ever.

    Promise I'm not on commission.

    I've also experienced (and am experiencing) similar fitness problems after long periods of bouldering. Two intense endurance sessions a week lapping routes just below your limit should sort it out in six weeks, if you're like me endurance comes and goes much faster than power.
    Post edited at 23:49
    Joughton on 01 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm: Sorry, skipped last week! Spent the entire week in the library so there wasn't much to report. Slight improvement this week:

    Mon -
    Tue - really good post library bouldering session. At the wall for three and a half hours doing loads of the new problems. Highlights were a few V6-8s at the easy end of the spectrum, plus coming very close to a V8+ which will go next session. Felt like my core and power have actually improved but there's a big loss in finger strength. Pleased not to be as weak as I am unfit!
    Wed - rest
    Thurs -
    Fri - session at home. Standard start of pull-ups and core then traversing round on the woodie trying to get fitter. Not an amazing session but it's all I can manage really.
    Sat -
    Sun - went for a run with my Dad. He's training for his BG round so he was only really there to humour me, I couldn't even try to keep up on the hill but it was nice to burn him off on the sprint finish! Not competitive at all...

    Dissapointing not to get out again in the sun but I've just accepted I need to put it on hold for just a little bit longer. Plans made to go to Norway this summer, hopefully hitting Flatanger for a few days which might be a good opportunity for an 8a. Something to keep the psyche going.

    Cheers, Jake
    mbh - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Thanks for the stats.

    I didn't get to the Lakes, but took the week off anyway and had a couple of days on the Roseland which was nice, and got quite a bit of running done on the coast paths of the north and south coasts of Cornwall.

    M - 8.2 mile coast path run around St Anthony's Head then 15.6 miles walk.
    T - 8.9 miles coast path run around the head again in fantastic sun. What a route...
    W - 10.6 miles
    T - 10 miles
    F - 10 miles coast path, New Polzeath <> Port Quin via the Rumps
    S - 9 miles coast path, around Stepper Point, from Padstow.
    S - 7.7 miles am, 4.4 miles pm, both close to PBs for the routes.

    Total 68.4 m / 110 km distance, 6850 ft / 2089 m ascent, which is the most for a while, with a few fast (ie <7:30 miles) in each of the road runs. All I need to do for a BG is to quadruple the ascent and squish it all into one day or, looking at it another way (the bright side ?), spread 10 hours of running over 7 days into less than 24 over 24.
    Banned User 77 - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Thanks for doing this again..
    M: 7.7 mile mountain and trail
    T: 13.25 at 6:50 pace
    W: track session, 5.5 miles
    T: 6.2 miles 7:30 pace
    F: 3.25 mile Recife run Ithaca ny
    S: 6.5 mile recce run of Cayuga 50 section
    S: 50 miles, 12000 ft ascent, US 50 mile trail champs.. 10th in 7:55. Happy enough, not sure if my worst or best run.. Felt terrible after a steady opening 10 then wanted to DNF... Just felt so inflamed.. Held on and got stronger and finished 10th taking 5 places in last 15 miles... Nice lesson in holding on in...
    Dandan82 - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Morning! Thanks Matt, i'm afraid that putting some hours into the garden is pretty much essential, we have a new, furry arrival turning up in 6 weeks so the garden needs to be escape proof, it currently has more holes than a tramps underpants so action needs to be taken.
    I don't mind though, while I can't climb it's good, hard exercise which makes me use my fingers but isn't as intense as actual climbing, I think it's really helping to get me back to an injury free state.
    That said, I may not be so positive about it this time next week, I have 32 fence panels turning up on friday, getting that little lot put up is going to be a challenge.

    M: Garden
    T: Climb; indoor routes up to 6b
    T: Chest; bench, decline dumbell press, incline flys, dips +10kg, tricep pull down
    F: Half day in garden
    S: Garden

    On Tuesday my car threw a strop and spat all it's coolant out on the M3, I managed to limp it home (finally, carrying 2 litres of water in my boot for 3 years has paid off) but once i'd fixed it there was no point going to work (110 miles) so I went with Mrs Dandan for a cheeky climb at our local wall.
    It went well, I kept myself to 6b or so and avoided a couple of strong crimps with the right hand, but everything felt good and the finger seemed happy.
    Gym stuff felt strong this week, no tweaks and i'm pushing out some good reps with good form.
    I don't note it down on the diary but I do stretches and finger exercises in one form or another every day, the latest set of forearm stretches are doing wonders, they make my left elbow feel strange a lot of the time but as I mentioned last week I can now go two days straight doing hard labour in the garden with no pain in the elbows whatsoever, so whatever changes are occuring it's a positive thing.
    Psyche is slowly returning, gym sessions feel like less of a chore, the finger is steadily improving, I'll be back on the rock soon, I can almost taste the hard routes!
    Alun - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Thanks as usual Matt.

    Etape Eryri Sportive (165km) in two weeks. No time target, just finish.
    Keep the climbing fitness

    Andorra "Volta als ports" Sportive (113km with 3300m climbing) in July. Target: Silver time of 5hr30m (gold: 5h20m).
    Sport 7c

    Sport 8a
    Maybe Etape du Tour next year?

    M - Nada
    T - 73km with 1500m climbing on road bike. Average speed 28km/h. Dead pleased.
    W - Nada
    T - Indoor bouldering, climbed well.
    F - Nada
    S - Nada
    S - Monster 160km ride with 3500m climbing. Longest and hardest ride I've ever done in my life. Suffered like a dog during the last 30km. Average speed was still 25km/h though, so very pleased. Though with stops I was out for 7hr20mins - a good indicator for the Etape Eryri in two weeks!
    Tyler - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:
    M: Ran (sort of) up and down Whernside then walked up and down Ingleborough! The walk felt hard
    T: Longridge, usual failures though managed to get the good crimp on grow wings a couple of times but just couldn't hang it.
    W: Nothing?
    T: Quick bouldering session after checking out the most uncool camper with a view to buying. Grades about two out compared to Rockover
    F: nothing
    S: Garage Buttress, did a nice 6c then pulled an undercut off 7b, dogged to the top, fell off crux next go and got it on third. Short day
    S: Another short day so reopened my Ashes account. Moves felt ok (especially now a big hold has appeared on the top wall!), if I could leave the rest as fresh as when I arrive I may have a chance! One bolt to bolt and three goes, never manged above the eyes in a oner

    So my intention to do less climbing and introduces a strength session failed although after yesterday I think I may need to concentrate on some fitness, time for some lengthy sessions down Stockport and CyL.

    Weight staying off but I'm back over eating. Two Magnums this weekend. Left elbow starting to feel stiff after climbing, one to keep an eye on......
    Post edited at 09:46
    Ally Smith on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Cheers Matt. Didn’t manage to get back on Unjustified this week. Got suckered in by another project though instead! Finger is feeling a little better this week after going backwards last weekend.

    LTG (End 2014):
    - Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
    - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime
    - Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Montenegro?)
    - Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race (not intending to be competitive, but still need to start running up hills again!)

    MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
    - Buy a house and build some home training facilities.
    - Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham (had a weird allergic reaction last time I went on the extension). Didn’t get on it this week. Malham partners in short supply.
    - Return to 7C+/8A f8b-ish link-up FA – been back on it this week and done it in overlapping thirds. Need some more top end PE for this bad boy!
    - Bolt the Dinbren project (Bolted a project, just not the one I initially thought about!)
    - On-sight some E5s in prep for...
    - Brandler-Hasse Cime Grande
    - Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
    - Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF – 74.4kg and 6.5% BF this morning.

    STG (The coming week)
    - Keep physio’ing the shoulder
    - Core, an-cap and foot-on campus sessions

    Last week:
    M - Dinbren. Bolted a project – needs glue. Probably in the 8a+/b range? Got tempted to tie in when I should be resting finger. Tidied up Out of Body Experience – unfinished business from a few weeks ago. Then quick Pantywmyn session; trying some 7C links in minging conditions. New beta for one maybe key to unlocking some big link-up numbers.
    T - was my birthday. I’d like to say it was a rock n’ roll affair but the reality was I had a glass of wine and an early night!
    W - More rest – still feeling boxed from the weekend.
    T - Ravens tor after work session. Back on the toilet. Very close RP attempt by head-torch. Pesky little footholds!
    F - Rest/foam roller session.
    S - Kilnsey. 7a warm-up, then dogged Full tilt 3 times. All the moves and some small links. Could be a goer. Last go continued into True North. Little crimpers and probably a bunch of weight on the rope, but worked out most of the moves. Could be tempted if North buttress stays dry long enough!
    S - Nesscliffe. E3 2nd, E5 2nd, E7 TR (badly) E9 TR (very badly), E8 TR. Bailed to Pantymwyn. Came close on a 7C a couple of times and refined beta on 7B. Linking these together is going to be interesting…
    Eagle River - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to Tyler

    > S: Another short day so reopened my Ashes account.

    Ally Smith on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to Eagle River:

    I hear it's only 7b+ now a jug has appeared mid-crux! ;-)
    Eagle River - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Well if Tyler manages to do it in the next two months then that'll definitely add weight to a downgrade.
    Tyler - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to Eagle River:

    Wait until I do Toadal as well, thats ripe for a downgrade!
    biscuit - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to Tyler:

    > Wait until I do Toadal as well, thats ripe for a downgrade!

    Best come back ever !

    Tyler 1 ER 0 ;-)
    Eagle River - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to Tyler:

    You're essentially the benchmark for route grading. If Tyler can do it we need to take at least a grade off.

    Luckily, I heard you can't do the crux move of toadal, so until you do my 8a status is still in tact.
    biscuit - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to Eagle River:

    > Luckily, I heard you can't do the crux move of toadal, so until you do my 8a status is still in tact.

    One all !
    thebigfriendlymoose - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to Eagle River:

    > Luckily, I heard you can't do the crux move of toadal, so until you do my 8a status is still in tact.

    I recall you giving me a go of Toadal whilst you were working it - and I couldn't do the crux either! Unfortunately it didn't seem amenable to my "resting" my way up it!

    biscuit - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Cheers Matt.

    Yoga is brilliant. Loving it. I am definitely more flexible already. If it helps my climbing then that's great. If it doesn't i'm still going to carry it on anyway. But as it works active flexibility and lots of climbing antagonists i don't see how it can't help climbing. Not massively but anything is better than nothing.

    Good week this week. 3 bike rides. 1 commute (38 miles) 1 quick blast (10 miles) and 1 hilly ride yesterday ( 34 miles 500m ). Yesterday felt pretty easy compared to when i first got on a bike. Off to Ireland for a few days riding in a couple of weeks so really looking forward to it now.

    Climbing wise i finally braved an indoor session on the auto belay. 2x 5+, 2x 6a, 2x 6b and 8 reps on a 6c+. All felt fine with no reaction from the finger. At last. It means i can get some before/after work sessions in during the week to keep ticking over.

    Went to Kilnsey at the weekend and failed to get on Comedy as i had my head turned by 50 for 5. What a great route. I was warned not to get sucked into thinking it's as easy as it appears, but i did, and have decided to get that done before Comedy. Unsuprisingly, for those who know the route, it's all steady away apart from the finish. It may not be 7c but i'm going to get it done.

    Just decided today to do a 32 mile trail run with JD. It's not a race, we've just come across a local waymarked trail walking the dog, and it's a goal for September time.

    Fat loss still going OK and may be into the kind of figures i can post without dying of embarrassment soon.

    Back to Kilnsey this week, hoping to get on lead at least.

    At least one climbing session around work.

    Bike ride and running too and another .5% off body fat will do.
    Humperdink - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to IainRUK:

    Good effort (as always!) I'd have been packing my bags after 10 mile in a sulk
    Humperdink - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Thanks for doing this weeks matt.

    Big week this week: had my goal race on Saturday which was the one I've building up to since March.

    M:am - 8M easy in 57:51 felt tired
    Tu: pm - supposed to have been a grass track session but was wet and windy so went on the road to save falling on my ass. Session was 2 x ("700","500","300") off 90 seconds and 5 mins. Thoroughly scared some dog walkers witless by coming round a corner sounding like I was dying! 7/8M total
    W: am - 5/6M easy in 40:24, lunchtime - 6/7M easy/steady including a 10K loop in ~44:30
    Th: lunchtime 4/5M easy in 33:02
    F: 15min + strides 2/3M felt good
    Sa: 5000m - British Milers Club Grand Prix @ Sportcity Manchester. Had a total nightmare getting to the track due to a One Direction concert on next door at the Etihad so turned up too late for my race. Fortunately I was able to be put in another race on in the evening. This one ended up being the last of the night and conditions were almost perfect. Didn't go with the pacemaker but stayed patient and moved through to lead the race just after 3K. Sadly with 600 to go someone kicked on and I couldn't go with him and someone else nipped by with about 30m to go. But...... but......
    I ran 14:53.6 - Get in! Made up to break 15mins as this has been the goal for the last 2/3 years. Had to literally run off the track and back to the car to avoid people coming out of the concert!
    Su: nothing!

    ~40M Total for the week and a big fat PB I think there is a bit more to come yet as I had to lead the race for almost a mile and its only my first 5K of the year.
    mbh - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to Humperdink:

    Fantastic effort!
    Banned User 77 - on 02 Jun 2014
    In reply to Humperdink:

    Wow superb.. that's rapid.

    I'm deffo taking a few days off to sort out my hip/groin/psoas issues.. its now getting too hot to be too focused on running so will plan for fall races now..
    Jamming Dodger on 03 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Not too bad a week in all; we seem to have accidentally knocked the mid-week drinking on the head.
    Three commutes (84 miles) and a nice lovely sunshiney ride on Sunday (33 miles) was the cardio for the week, plus yoga on Wednesday. It hurts, but I always feel better afterwards.
    Irelad next week. Having never been, let alone cycled in Ireland i'm looking forward to what it has to offer. Now it is all booked I'm quite excited Lots of cycling, but Saturday is earmarked for shopping, eating and drinking.
    Will commute 3 days this week but we're off to London on Saturday so that'll take up most of the weekend.
    Oh yes, and somehow I agreed to do a 32 mile trail run. There are four routes which make up the one longer route so should be good practise. Just hope my legs can hold up, as right now 32 miles running feels impossible for me :/
    Just Tintin - on 03 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    26 May – 1 June

    Thanks Matt. How’s stump progress? Weather was better so had some outside time and did lots of SPA rigging practice for upcoming assessment. No indoors this week!

    M – Bouldering Stanage Apparent North – 20 problems with a couple of V3s
    T – SPA set-ups practice Burbage North, Yarncliffe. Toproped a couple of routes to test my anchors but not really any training.
    W – Rest
    T – Rest
    F – 45 minute Spin session
    S – Lead and SPA set-ups Harborough Rocks – that is some weird limestone. Or maybe I’ve been on the grit too long…
    S – Routes and bouldering Curbar. Need to go back stronger to Gorilla Warfare!
    Sankey - on 03 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm: Back from Scotland, had a good couple of weeks, the first was laid back, but did a couple of walks, and then had a great week in Torridon, being able to enjoy walking in the mountains for the first time in a very long while with no knee or foot problems. Think I need to start some preparation for the Alps trip, lots of mileage needed for long routes out there...

    Wk 1:

    Sunday: Walk round Loch Chon (6 miles)
    Monday: Ben Venue (8 miles, 2100 feet)
    Weds: Morning 3 mile run to Aros castle before breakfast

    Also a fair few short walks on Mull and the Ardnamuchan

    Wk 2:

    Sunday: 2 A9 Munros on drive up from Glasgow (10 miles, 2500 feet, 3.5 hours)
    Monday: Cioch Nose on Applecross with the ridge finish
    Tuesday: Benn Align (6.6. miles, 4000 feet)
    Wednesday: 3 South Torridon Munros (16 miles, 6500 feet)
    Thursday: An Teallach (10 miles, 4000 feet)
    Friday: 2 Ben Eighe Munros + mountaineering Diff on Triple Buttress (10 miles. 4000 feet)

    STG: RP 7b

    MTG: Cassin Route Piz Badille end July


    RPS: 6c (6) 6c+ (4) 7a (6) 7a+(2)
    Kevster - on 03 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Cheers Matt,

    Back from spain, not a big ticking trip realy. Enjoyed it though. Rain on too many days, but didn't stop climbing for the whole of any one day. I probably had too many days on, too much beer and too little sleep, if I were to be critical.

    Bit of a ramble on (apologies in advance):

    Riglos: 1 route a day. Hats off to Ally off FC who I belive climbed zulu and fiesta in a day onsight. I was spent by the end of each.

    Fiesta de los biceps: So which is the crux pitch? Pitches ranged from 6b to 6c and if I am honest, I'm not entirely sure which I did now. I do know that the perspective you get is warped by the positions and the overhang. I climbed the upper 6c+ pitch, thought it was easy and that I was actually on the pitch after (6c), and so had a 6a+ pitch to finish. I thought what the hell, doesn't look too steep, I'll run them into one. So I ran the 6c+ into the 6c pitch. 60 meters of outrageous overhang/jug pulling saw me just a touch pumped! God knows how I mistook it for a 6a+.

    El zulu: Just as good as Fiesta. The start felt nails compared to the pitch grades in the book - added to the obvious point of aid section on the 40m first pitch, so I think we were off route. Rectified this on the third height ledge, and concious of time slipping away, we thought - run the next two pitches together, save time. Excellent way of doing it, just a little pumpy come the end of the traverse. Infact, as this was day 4 at riglos, and I got the top 2 pitches as well, may have been a school boy tactical error.
    Excellent climb, but I'll have to confess to pulling on a few of draws etc to make the top. This was the final day at riglos.

    Lleida area: I managed a few low 7's and a handfull of 6cs. Had one go at onsighting a 7b (failed). Felt weaker and more drained than I expected and the crags we visited weren't ideal for my personal ambitions. As such the route tally wasnt massive, but I did climb some good routes.

    So what did I learn? Fitness and strength could be better. Rest and good sleep is important. When in steep teritory, less steep is still overhanging. To tick the ambitions, you need to actually visit the crags with the ambitions on!

    Next: Maybe work on strength. Back to the finger board. Get on more hard for me routes.

    Busy week this week - will post goals next week.

    Cheers, kev.
    Ally Smith on 03 Jun 2014
    In reply to Kevster:

    > Riglos: 1 route a day. Hats off to Ally off FC who I belive climbed zulu and fiesta in a day onsight. I was spent by the end of each.

    Not quite - we did Fiesta our first day in Riglos, with a lot of time spent faffing with Dan taking self-portraits with potatoes in his hands whilst taking whippers - see here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=229995

    The next morning we did Zulu in 4 pitches, had a beer & a siesta then did this, again in 4 loooong pitches in the evening. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=43854

    Running pitches together with 20+draws and an 80m rope definitely sped things up.
    AJM - on 03 Jun 2014
    In reply to Ali:

    Sounds like good fast progress Ali. I always found my problem used to be I needed to hit the pockets statically, which I could do on short links but never from the ground, but then I think when I finally got back onto the headwall when I did storm warning I was fit enough that I could rest completely bridged in the corner just before you start the headwall.
    AJM - on 03 Jun 2014
    In reply to JimmyKay:

    > Storm Warning. I know it's soft for 7c but even so, it felt like an absolute path. Footholds everywhere.

    That's certainly one in the eye for the "it's my first 7c+" brigade!
    AJM - on 03 Jun 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    > I hear it's only 7b+ now a jug has appeared mid-crux! ;-)

    Between that, and using a kneebar to assist with that final clip, I'm surprised ER can claim any more than 7b with a straight face.

    In other news, shoulder rehab continues, I had the worst and first climbing pain yesterday on a 6b and then a 6a, graunchy shouldery stuff, but still managed to tick 7b+ because it was R-L leaning so had no RH gastons on it.
    Ally Smith on 03 Jun 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Isn't there a rest sitting on 1 bum cheek on Chulilla?
    AJM - on 03 Jun 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    On the right? - perhaps. I always found it quite awkward on that ledge, and it's out on SW anyway and if I'd done Chulilla then I'd have just rested in the corner again.
    Kevster - on 03 Jun 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Do you mean the ledge/corner on prisoner? I'd say well off route Andy.... Even for Chilula. Please lets not down grade storm warning, it is a possible next for me for brean.

    Ali: Hope you have better success on Chilula than I, I went the other week expecting an easy ride and got sent home without any dinner.

    Ally: I'd already seen Dan's photo with the potato, amusing! You still bite off some meters with the other route and zulu. Respect! Though posing with a potato is a novel resting on the draws excuse ;)
    JayK - on 03 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    It's always a little concerning when the harder variation is considered soft 7c...

    Brean. The lenor of the climbing world we all like it's softness, but none of us want to tell our mates about it!
    Paul Baxter - on 03 Jun 2014
    Injury affected week - wrist/finger issues came to a head at the end of the week and stopped me from climbing. Glad the weekend plans were for hill walking insted...

    Still happy to have done Bludgeon. The Wyndcliff HVS's were Still Stuck on You and Sweet FA. I also seconded The Charlatan and Nice and Dry.

    Get weight to <69kg
    Improve confidence on multiple VS & HVS leads (Gower)

    Progress to leading HVS at multiple different venues (types of rock etc)
    Indoor (Big Rock MK) - lead 7a's

    Big rambly mountain routes in VS/HVS range (possibly in Morocco)

    Last Weeks Progress:
    Mon: Climbed at Ban-yGor rocks. Damp and slippy for much of the day, but I did get a VS lead and a few sport routes done. Not the most inspiring climbing - I thinkI may only go back in a heatwave...
    Tue: Rest.
    Wed: Bouldering. 4x4 on a slightly overhainging 5+, another set of 4 on a serious overlap 5+ and some 6b+ routes. Felt really good at the end, until my wrist started aching.
    Thu: Rest. Wrist very bad.
    Fri: Rest. Wrist still very bad.
    Sat: Hiked Cader Idris, swam in the sea. Wrist mainly recovered.
    Sun: Hiking on the Arrans - some serious uphill work for CV fitness. Happy that use of knee support + taking care meant not much knee pain (was serious issue in Jan)

    Aim for this week is to get two solid bouldering sessions in, one Yoga session, while trying to avoid re-tweaking my wrist.
    mrchewy - on 04 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    re the campusing

    It would be much more fun to climb more, I can think of nothing better. My knee just can't stand up to any volume of indoor climbing tho. It just swells up, then the scar tissue on the ligaments sticks...
    The footholds may be bigger and better than outside but I have no choice of where to put my foot - outside I have options. I never have issues with the knee outside from the actual climbing. Rarely anyway. Indoors, the moves are just too big quite often.
    Trust me, there's nothing more mind numbing than foot on campusing but often, it's that or nowt. I often get to the wall having to have knelt a lot at work and the knee is like a balloon - if I climb, then I just risk injury. So, I take the sensible option and save the knee for when I can get outside.
    This is my left knee as well, the better one in general. The other has grade 3 and 4 damage to it and has just a few years to a knee transplant according to the last surgeon who operated on it.

    If I lived near rock - I honestly wouldn't climb at all indoors.
    mrchewy - on 04 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Pretty crap week but finally finished work on Wed and drove to Cornwall late at night.

    Thu - Life Centre. Bouldering. One setter's problems were all about strength and the shapes and feet were crap, the other guy's were brilliant. Nice shapes, lots of balance and neat technique needed. Flashed a couple of the up to 6B circuit.
    Fri - Gokarting was followed by a massive drinking session. Right clattered.
    Sat - Vicarage Cliff, North Devon. Wicked slabs. One solid and I led the HS 3star route on it. Brilliant. Felt so rough I almost puked at the belay. Seconded some VS before that which was loose in the extreme. We bailed after that. Beer 1 Kelvin 0
    Sun - Dewerstone. Took my mate's sister on her first climb, a VS named after the Climber's Club. Nice route and she did amazingly. I quite liked it here. That was all we did tho.

    Humperdink - on 04 Jun 2014
    In reply to IainRUK:

    Thanks! Hope you manage to get the niggles sorted out.
    leon on 04 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    STG for next week: lead e1.
    MTG (June): Classic E2 tick.
    LTG(2014): Star Wars & Pleasure Dome.
    VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

    Mon: 5k run(23'49").
    Tue: Nothing.
    Wed: Push-ups & Pull-ups. Core.
    Thu: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
    Fri: Core. Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
    Sat: Gimmer
    Sun: Nothing.

    Elbow is gettng worse but still manageable I think.

    Got on an e1 at Gimmer but backed-off. This time last year I was breaking into e3 so this is progress right ?!?!?

    Got a PB on my Monday run & the climbing training is going well, hopefully with more time on real rock I'll start to see some rewards.
    Ali - on 05 Jun 2014
    In reply to AJM & Kevster:

    I got a weird rest bent over with a chin wedge on the ledge... I'm not sure thats how it's supposed to be done though :-S And it didn't really help as couldn't recover (not because of the rest, because I'm so unfit!). Andy - I know what you mean about getting pocket statically - its all about aiming!
    Luke Owens - on 06 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:
    I've been mega busy with moving house and having no internet so i'll do a double update. Haven't managed to get out climbing at all lately but we're in the house and settling in so should be out more now.

    Made some progress deadhanging.

    W/C 19th May

    Monday: 15 wide grip pull-ups

    3 x 10 secs (30mm edge)

    First joint edge:
    2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
    10kg - 8secs, 8secs, 10secs

    Tuesday: 15 wide grip pull-ups
    3 x 10 Hammer Curls (17.5kg)

    3 x 10 secs (30mm edge)

    First joint edge:
    2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
    10kg - 8secs, 8secs, 10secs

    Wednesday: 15 wide grip pull-ups
    3 x 10 Hammer Curls (17.5kg)

    3 x 10 secs (30mm edge)

    First joint edge:
    2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
    10kg - 10secs, 10secs, 10secs
    12.5kg - 10 secs

    Thursday: Decorating

    Friday: 15 wide grip pull-ups

    3 x 10 secs (30mm edge)

    First joint edge:
    5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs
    12.5kg - 10secs, 10secs, 10secs

    3 x 1min plank

    Saturday: Decorating

    Sunday: Decorating

    W/C 26th May

    Monday: 15 wide grip pull-ups

    3 x 10 secs (30mm edge)

    First joint edge:
    5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs
    15kg - 6secs, 8secs, 8secs

    Tuesday: 15 wide grip pull-ups

    3 x 10 secs (30mm edge)

    First joint edge:
    5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs
    15kg - 7secs, 8secs, 9secs

    Wednesday: 15 wide grip pull-ups

    3 x 10 secs (30mm edge)

    First joint edge:
    7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs, 12.5kg - 10secs
    15kg - 8secs, 8secs, 10secs

    3 x 17.5kg Front Upright Rows

    Thursday: 15 wide grip pull-ups

    3 x 10 secs (30mm edge)

    First joint edge:
    7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs, 12.5kg - 10secs
    15kg - 8secs, 9secs, 8secs

    3 x 1min Plank

    Friday: Packing and Decorating

    Saturday: Moving House

    Sunday: Moving House
    Post edited at 08:36
    Ally Smith on 06 Jun 2014
    In reply to Luke Owens:

    Loadsa deadhanging there - all deliberately concentrated on strength work?

    Remember Alex said that he'd done all his recent training before crushing Rodellar on a fingerboard.

    How about mixing it up with some repeaters and getting some an-cap work in there too?
    Luke Owens - on 06 Jun 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    All of the sessions were on your rock rings on my 30 minute lunch break so I didn't really think I had enough time for any worth while An-Cap or Repeater type stuff? I'm probably wrong?

    Any ideas? Would be good to mix it up.
    Goonie - on 10 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Cheers again!

    A bit late this week :/ and thanks to all for the well wishes, We had a baby boy and he is called Bryce and both mum and baby doing well!

    Finding time for dad though is an issue.

    I work freelance so I manage to fit in some sessions around that so that hope i manage to get climbing/training, though I would like it to be more structured but thats not going to happen any time soon!

    Back up to bouldering V6 this week band it felt not to bad , also feeling stronger on 1 arm ½ crimp hangs, sort of a ½ hour session following some of the Chris Webb Parson stuff. Also started doing P90X Ab Ripper X for core, 16 minutes and your done it works really well!

    Goals for week 375 were:

    - Start back at conditioning focussing on gymnastic related core strength (tick did some rings and core stuff) P90X Ab Ripper X) X 2
    - Do 2 fingerboard sessions ( Working on 1 hand ½ crimp varying weight and angle of locks.
    - 1 bouldering sessions.
    - 2 Ring sessions.

    LTG (End 2014):
    - 8a (route to be decided)
    - 7B & 7B+ (Mestizo traverse and Consolidated)
    - Front Lever hold 5 sec.
    - 1 arm 1/2 crimp campus rung 1st joint for 5 sec.
    - Complete 3 seasons focussed periodisation training.
    - weight under 75kg

    MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
    - V7 (the Gutter, Roaches)
    - trip to Ardeche now 7c minimum!
    - indoor V7
    - try and get 2 days out each month on rock (fatherhood)
    - Get the board in the Abbey built with Ben!
    - Weight under 77kg by August trip.

    STG (The coming week)
    - Try to get two ring sessions and two core sessions.
    - One bouldering session
    - 2 fingerboard sessions.

    Last Week:
    M - Fingerboard session, lock offs and shoulders on rings.
    T- rest
    W- Bouldering session and Core session after
    T- Rest skin care.
    F- Warm up (easy bouldering and Rings session
    S- Fingerboard session
    Su- Bouldering session as no work! Not bad session though weather was warm, Did some caps locks on beast makers, core session and body tension walk outs.

    Got more this week done than planned so not bad will maybe try and up the core sessions to three as these are quite short and can be done every 2nd day. Would ideally like more fingerboard sessions but time and motivation/energy are an issue!

    Plan for next week will be much of the same try and keep intensity high where i can and make every session count!

    Weight this week at 80 kg stagnated a bit though I have not exactly been avoiding the good stuff!

    Cheers all


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