/ The Jegihorn routes

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glaramara - on 03 Jun 2014
I fancy doing the Alpendurst on the Jegihorn as an acclimitisation route this july (no doubt with half a billion other people). I have the slightly dated valais east AC guidebook. Doesn't even have the climb on the topo. Where is the Alpendurst in relation to the normal route? And the south rib (Sud-kante), appears to follow a line paralleling the normal route. Is this correct?
Fiona Reid - on 03 Jun 2014
cb294 - on 03 Jun 2014
In reply to glaramara:

Right up the middle of the face, name in red writing at the start. Best just follow the crowds...

See also here:

http://f.hikr.org/files/28856l.jpg


CB
ianghogg - on 03 Jun 2014
In reply to Fiona Reid:

The summit post suggest you need double 50 m ropes - if you are not abseiling back down the route, would a single 50 m standard rope be OK?
cb294 - on 03 Jun 2014
In reply to ianghogg:

You might have to bail out.

CB
Fiona Reid - on 03 Jun 2014
In reply to ianghogg:

We took a 50m single and got up early to make sure we were one of the first parties on the route - we were second on the route but ended up behind a very slow pair.

If you had to bail (weather or queue) you'd probably want 2 ropes. Our mates were directly behind us also on a single rope so we figured we could combine together if we had to.
monkey1 - on 03 Jun 2014
In reply to glaramara:

We did the route armed with some rough directions without a topo a few years back - it's hard to go wrong. get to the foot of the crag (can't miss it) and you can skirt the bottom of all the routes within 10mins. The route's marked clearly at the foot and well bolted - from memory about 1 hours walk from the Ski station. We preferred 'Panorama' which is similar difficulty, next route along to the right (facing in). Good memories of the place
glaramara - on 03 Jun 2014
In reply to Fiona Reid:

You would be what is called, a super-star. Perfect. Summitpost, why didn't I think of that?
glaramara - on 03 Jun 2014
In reply to monkey1:

Ta, I'll give it a look. I am presuming Panorama is bolted as well. Fun climbing before the choss-fest of the Matterhorn et al :-)
bill T - on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to glaramara:

Hi. Alpendurst is really nice, well bolted and named at the start. Varied climbing straight up the face, but very evenly graded. But watch out if going for Panorama. A few years ago a new route was being established between Alpendurst and Panorama. This was significantly harder than either, so don't mistake next along from Alpendurst as Panorama. Don't want to steal the thread, but would love to know if anyone has any details on this new route.
JohnnyW - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to glaramara:

Being one of the half a billion, I too fancy the Alpendurst, or indeed the Sudkante, so I'd be happy doing either come the day, if the other 499,999,999 are on the other. My pal did Panorama last year, and we've done the VF a good few times.

Again, as I think I mentioned in another thread, it's in that local topo book that you can get at Intersport.
glaramara - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to JohnnyW:

Aye well maybe I'll see u out there. I think I did TR on The Ben with u once BTW. I don't think we thought each other were assholes we just didn't do anything else together. If it's u, good to see you're still a keen been.
JLS on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to glaramara:

>"And the south rib (Sud-kante), appears to follow a line paralleling the normal route. Is this correct?"

Yes, more or less parallel to normal route, however I found the exact start of Sud-kante quite hard to locate. The point to break off the normal route for Alpendurst (and Panarama) is fairly obvious in that you can see where the grass turns to rock below the long slabby face. Sud-kante start is a further up. I just started scrambling in the general direction of the route until I found a bolt at what must have been near the top of the first pitch.

Sud-kante has more of a mountaineering feel to it with it's ridges twists and turns. Alpendurst is pleasantly straight forward but may be considered "samey". Panarama is (was when I did it) significantly harder (think VS climbing) and had run-out sections to the extent route finding was an issue (take wires).
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JohnnyW - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to glaramara:

You did indeed, and thanks very much. If you recall, I was a little unsure about it at the time - I have moved on somewhat in my enjoyment of exposure and climbing generally, y'know, Skye Traverse, led NE Buttress, Observatory etc.

When you in Saas?

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