/ Best Multipitch Severe and Hard Severe Routes UK

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atthedropofahat on 07 Jun 2014
Stars or No Stars I'm putting together a tick list which I hope to complete this summer, please contribute what you feel are the best multipitch severes and hard severes in the UK any rock type, any style.
Darron - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Foe a sea cliff you might try Right Angle.
CMcBain - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Ardverikie Wall
Skip - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Doorpost (HS) at Bosigran.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=845

Right Angle (HS) at Gurnard's Head
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28738

Central Groove at Dewerstone
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=26065
gd303uk - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Troutdale pinnacle,
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=695


CurlyStevo - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Rayburns Arete followed by NE butree on the Ben is awesome at Severe :)
CurlyStevo - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to gd303uk:

+1 this is really good.

I also really rate Eagles Ridge on lochnagar
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Savage Slit
January Jigsaw
goose299 - on 07 Jun 2014
goose299 - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to gd303uk:

ooops snap
CMcBain - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to nickinscottishmountains:

I thought January Jigsaw was pretty disappointing - vague line and some pretty poor rock at the top (although I was maybe off route). It's nowhere near the same level of quality as Agag's.
Gordon Stainforth - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Main Wall, Cyrn Las
Matt Amos - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Definitely agree with central groove at the dewerstone. I'd also add in ribstone crack in the pass. Excellent climbs in brilliant positions
petestack - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to CMcBain:

> Ardverikie Wall

Yep, Ardverikie Wall...

+ Butterknife on Garbh Bheinn (when given HS, since it's borderline HS/VS) for a great first half including the peerless second-pitch corner.
Robert Durran - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to petestack:

> Yep, Ardverikie Wall...

Yes

> + Butterknife on Garbh Bheinn

Did this a few weeks ago and thought it overrated; good second pitch, but the rest very mediocre.
CurlyStevo - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:

I have to say I think it's a 3 star route but only just.
petestack - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Did this a few weeks ago and thought it overrated; good second pitch, but the rest very mediocre.

No question it's not of uniform quality, but you could say the same about January Jigsaw. And the Butterknife corner is truly great (worth doing the route just for that)!

Robert Durran - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to petestack:
> And the Butterknife corner is truly great (worth doing the route just for that)!

Certainly very worth doing but I didn't think it was quite worth 3 stars let alone qualify for "one of the best in UK" status.

Commando Crack is outstanding; candidate for "best in UK"?
Post edited at 13:50
Ann S on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Kennel Wall at Gouther just about squeaks in if you break it into 2 pitches. Quality climbing all the way.
Choss on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Zelda, left hand route, and central rib, at Wintours Leap. Although the first Pitch of central rib is horrible cos of Polish.
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skog - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Certainly very worth doing but I didn't think it was quite worth 3 stars let alone qualify for "one of the best in UK" status.

Agreed.

> Commando Crack is outstanding; candidate for "best in UK"?

Good shout - a fantastic Severe.

Integrity? If considered HS rather than MVS.

Troutdale Pinnacle's very good too, but not as good as these, I think.
Robert Durran - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to skog:
> Good shout - a fantastic Severe.

> Integrity? If considered HS rather than MVS.

If so, you certainly couldn't get a much better day at the grade than Cioch West, then something on The Cioch, then Integrity, then traversing round to Commando Crack to finish on Sgurr Alasdair.
Post edited at 14:12
BnB - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:
> If so, you certainly couldn't get a much better day at the grade than Cioch West, then something on The Cioch, then Integrity, then traversing round to Commando Crack to finish on Sgurr Alasdair.

Did this enchainment myself last week, except for the finish up Commando Crack. Was sick of my rock shoes by the time we had completed Integrity, and the lure of ice cream at the GB shop sealed the deal to descend toute suite!! Grand day out.
Post edited at 14:15
Bulls Crack - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

'Jones' Direct from Lords Rake' - Scafell
Troutdale Pinnacle - Black Crag
Murrays - Dow
Nath93 - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Nirvana Wall on Aoanch Dubh is absolutely superb, thin crack climbing and then a layback crack on the top pitch. Can't be many more of those at the same grade in the UK?

January Jigsaw is a really good route and found the top pitches the best.
johncook - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Lighthouse Arete.
Pick any of the Wildcat HS, but not the severe Cats Eye, it is not nice!
Andy S - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

I haven't climbed every Severe in the UK, but the best one I've personally climbed is Poor Man's Peutery, Tremadog.
myserable old git - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

If (?) it's not covered in ivy Mourning Glory in Cheddar is a wonderful
adventure.
Joak - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to BnB:

In 2000 I had one of my most enjoyable mountain days climbing Cioch Direct, Arrow Route and Integrity with two mates, especially so as it was a hastily arranged midweek holiday courtesy of a chance encounter with another mate during my lunch hour. After lunch I secured time of work, booked my place, arranged lifts THEN asked the wife if it was OK to go! 10pm that evening I was on my way to Skye.
Two days after climbing on Sron na Ciche four of us walked into the north west face of Sgurr a'Mhadaidh for a nice easy relaxing day climbing the three star VDiff, Bonington and Patey route "Whispering Wall"
If my hazy memory serves me well it proved neither easy nor relaxing:)
The Ivanator - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat: 50 best HS routes in the UK list (mostly multi pitch):

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=381
David Jones - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Dives/Beter Things.
David Jones - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Another from North Wales, Kirkus @ Tanygrisiau.
sjminfife - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:
The Weight at Fulmar Wall on the Aberseen Cliffs. Albatross as well while you are there.(Whoops I forgot you wanted multi pitch. They may save a wet day)
Talisman and of course Ardereekie Wall.
Punsters Crack
The Hood at Cave Crag always used to be HS but the top pitch is bold.
sjm
Post edited at 17:27
Tom V - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Horseman's , Lundy
Tophet Wall
biped - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Eagle Ridge.
A Mountain Journey - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Murray's route, Dow crag;
Tophet Wall, Great Gable;
Bowfell Buttress;

Christmas curry, Tremadog;
Crackstone rib, Carreg wasted;
Skylon, Carreg wasted
oscaig - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Thought January Jigsaw had a bit of a wandering line but that the upper pitches were well positioned (airy) and good climbing. Another contender (on the VD/S border) is the Cioch Nose. I see it's been mentioned a few times but I think if HS was your upper limit you might find Integrity quite tough and possibly intimidating in its situation... fabulous climb though it certainly is.
Other classy climbs in that grade area well worth considering (in no particular order) are: Punster's Crack S on the Cobbler, Christmas Curry and Creag Dubh Wall both HS at Tremadog, Doorpost HS on Bosigran, Main Wall HS on Cym Las and Pegasus and Flannel Avenue both HS on Chair Ladder.

Fab climbing - enjoy!
Ann S on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

The Cracks on the Mot if you omit the hard top pitch.
Moss Ghyll Grooves got HS in my copy of Classic Rock.

SCrossley on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Honister Wall
Tophet Wall
Main Wall
Crackstone Rib
and a good friend told me Ardverike is the best Severe he has ever done and I would take that as gospel.
prog99 on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to CMcBain:
> Ardverikie Wall

Yup and don't miss out Kubla Khan on the way down

How about The Talisman? A long way for 3 pitches but a great situation and views.

Enjoyed the Cioch Nose at Applecross.

Thought Eagle Ridge was ok but preferred Cumming-Crofton Route even if the 4th pitch is horribly loose.
Post edited at 21:14
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Joak - on 07 Jun 2014
In reply to SCrossley:

>
> and a good friend told me Ardverike is the best Severe he has ever done and I would take that as gospel.

Patey's exploration of the crag coincided with bad weather and he later commented that Ardverikie Wall was the finest route he had ever walked past.
High praise indeed:)
Greenbanks - on 08 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Anyone for Manx Wall?
Michael Gordon - on 08 Jun 2014
In reply to Nath93:

> Nirvana Wall on Aoanch Dubh is absolutely superb, thin crack climbing and then a layback crack on the top pitch. Can't be many more of those at the same grade in the UK?

> January Jigsaw is a really good route and found the top pitches the best.

Nirvana Wall is nice enough, wouldn't say it was anything special though.

January Jigsaw is great, pity about all the polish. That said, it does make the route finding easier!
Webster - on 08 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Avalanch/Red wall/longlands continuation on Y Llewedd deserves a mention. the climbing is a bit discontinuous as is often the case on big mountain routes, but the history, setting and views accross to the trinity face of Snowdon (and crib goch) make it well worth while, plus its an 11 pitch monster which tops out right on a spectacular summit, away from the usual crowds just 1km away. topped off with a swim in the lake in the cwm on the way down and mountain days dont come much better!
Just Another Dave - on 08 Jun 2014
In reply to Greenbanks:

Manx Wall is a bit of a curve-ball, doesn't get the recognition of others mentioned, but I'd agree, it's a real surprising gem at the grade.

Just to add votes to the front-runners:
Tophet Wall, Gable.
Christmas Curry with Micah Eliminate,
Main wall, Cyrn Las
Those 3 really stand out as being surprising territory that shouldnt be so easily climbed at their grades
Greenbanks - on 08 Jun 2014
In reply to Just Another Dave:

It was more of an un-spotted googly for me! Misty April, alone in a 'big' cwm, only fourth or fifth time in the mountains. Did it after a period of rain too. After a few feet we couldn't see the ground & I swear that the next thing we encountered in a clear spell was this simmering dark overhang. Was he leading or me? It didn't really matter, as our gear was rubbish (our fault - there's enough now I know). All we wanted was to get from underneath that grim prow above us. To be honest, I was cr*pping myself, resolving then to only ever to climb when it was nice.
But God, the pumping elation once I'd found my way to the top. King of Ogwen. For a few minutes at least.
Dervey - on 08 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:
Tophet wall, the napes
Bridges route, esk buttress
Rog Wilko on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to Dervey:

Wot, no Pillar Rock?

You'd go a long way to beat Rib & Slab in the Lakes and for an "off-the-wall" suggestion I happened on last year, Cheekwooly (or Cheekwoolly) which starts next to Rib & Slab.
Bracket & Slab on Gimmer must be in there somewhere
Another vote for Tophet Wall, and for Main Wall.
But it's hard to overlook Ardvereikie Wall.
JJL - on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Arrow route on Skye
Main Wall Cryn Las
Devils Slide Lundy
D Berry on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to Greenbanks:

> Anyone for Manx Wall?

Was looking to see if it had been suggested already. Would also add Central Groove @ The Dewerstone.
Dervey - on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Unfortunately I've yet to sample the delights of pillar, though it is on the list for this summer!

Hat Dude on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Craig Dhu Wall
Log dog - on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Centrally groove,
Demo route,
Autumn flakes
Right angle
Doorstep

All no more than 3 pitches, all rated the top 5 hs routes in the UK and 4 are rockfax top 50 UK. Me and my partner are gonna hot them all in a weekend as they are all in Cornwall bar 1
Rog Wilko on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Log dog:

Done Doorpost and Doorway but not yet Doorstep - where is that? :-)
The Ivanator - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Rog Wilko:

A little lower down.
Iain Peters - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

One not to miss is Wreckers' Slab at Cornakey, a S or HS masquerading as a VS. Big, intimidating, easy, but one of the best adventures on the Culm Coast, and then go to Vicarage Cliff for a great clutch of slab routes at the grade including Box of Delights.
Bob_the_Builder - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Cioch West was a cracker but felt like a VDiff to us. Apparently it used to be VDiff but got upgraded? Finish up the Nose for a satisfying end.

I climbed January Jigsaw after having some serious confidence issues due to a fall, but the route made me remember why I love trad.
tripehound - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Only V Diff but South West Slabs on Cir Mhor on Arran.
South Ridge direct on the same crag MVS Tho. But no harder than tophet wall.

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